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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This is one of the benchmark traditional Barolo's from a classic years! Every time I’ve tried Cavallotto’s ‘Vigna San Guiseppe’ I’ve gone to a very happed place. The core of fruit in is always insane. Having tasted a dozen of the best Baroli alongside Vigna San Guiseppe over many vintages, it’s clear this is up at the top of the list. Cavallotto’s always beautifully balances power with elegance. The 2013 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is fabulous. The aromatics a
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points KO 97*NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they will resolve and shift up. KO tasted in Jan 2024 with 4 extra mon
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points KO 96*NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the P
Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte
The 2020 Gattinara Valferana is beautifully lifted and floral. Gorgeous red-toned fruit, white pepper, chalk and orange peel all rush from the glass in this striking, finely-cut Gattinara. Sweet floral notes and a burst of red fruit punctuate the finish. In 2020, the Valferana is all finesse. It should be even more expressive in another few years’ time. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 PointsThere are 20 cru vineyards in the Gattinara DOCG appellation, with Valferana, meaning ‘Iron Va
Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte
The 2020 Gattinara Molsino is a dark, brooding Gattinara. Black cherry, plum, liquorice, crushed rocks, lavender and spice all race across the palate. A wine of sombre intensity, the 2020 is built for the long haul. Deep and beguiling, firm tannins enshroud the long, building finish. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 97 PointsLocated on the western border of the DOCG, sitting up at 420 metres, Molsino, meaning in local dialect, soft and smooth, is the largest of the vineyards and faces mostly
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
Canalicchio is known for producing elegant, fine, Burgundian Brunello. A Top 10 producer year in, year out! The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli is impossible to ignore. It opens with a distinctly savory bouquet of ashen stones, rosemary, dusty violets and crushed blackberries. Elegant in style, it floods the palate with polished red berry fruits, violet tones and silken textures. The 2021 tapers off harmoniously with excellent length, leaving edgy tannins to pinch the cheeks as nuanc
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Ooh. Wow. So dense in aromatics that it’s hard to label them! Wait. Simply fabulous and the star of this first tasting. Insanely good, incredibly complete. Benchmark stuff. Such a fragrance! This is mind boggling. Wonderful flow length+++. The sophistication of tannins here is insane. Here we see an incredibly complete wine. Such sophistication and power. There’s an elegance and lithe nature to this incredibly powerful beauty. The flowers are intoxicating. Again length +++. The sophisticat
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. The tannins show the benefit of a long ripening season. Yes, they have structure, they are damn fine tannins of exceptional depth and length. Hints of tobacco, earth, savoury bits and such a long deep core of fruit. This will develop beautifull
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
While Vietti's Villero is their Top Wine. This is my favorite! I had a 1997 not long ago that was breathtaking!The 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione shows all the signatures of this site, all turned up to the maximum. I am not sure I have ever tasted a Vietti Castiglione with this much heft. Super-ripe dark red fruit, rose petal, mocha, dried herbs and menthol all build in an ample, resonant Barolo. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2017 for the next handful of years, perhaps longer.
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2018 Barolo Lazzarito is tense, vibrant and very much closed in on itself. Searing tannins and Serralunga structure dominate today. Crushed rocks, gravel, red fruit, rose petal, lavender and sage all run though this sculpted, vibrant Serralunga Barolo. What stands out most about the Lazzarito today is that is stylistically more similar to the other Barolos than it was a few years ago. I expect great things in time here. Drink 2028 - 2048 Galloni
The 2018 Barolo Ravera is a wine of real depth and vertical structure. As always, the Ravera is a taut, nervy Barolo built on energy more than volume. Readers will have to be patient, as the Ravera is likely to require a number of years to be at its most expressive. Even in the early going, it is vibrant and full of life. Rose petal, chalk, blood orange and white pepper lend striking exotic top notes that are quite suggestive of what the future is going to bring. What a gorgeous Barolo this is..
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
While Vietti's Villero is their Top Wine. This is my favorite! I had a 1997 not long ago that was breathtaking!The 2018 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is suave, silky and caressing right out of the gate. Sumptuous and racy, with silky tannins, the Rocche possesses superb depth and plenty of resonance that builds over time. The 2018 is an especially potent Rocche that is going to need a number of years to unwind. Drink 2028 - 2048 Galloni
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