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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
The first time we've had Sandro Fay's wine from the Sassella sub-zone of Valtellina and it's a ripper. A step up from the Valgella appropriately reflected in the price difference. Longer and with more mid-palate depth it shows excellent flow and shape. The pure, fine acid and long sophisticated tannins make for an equally refreshing drop. Darker sour cherry fruit laced with slate, spice and lick of that alpine thing doing on. Great transparency. Loads of joy to be had with this pleasure festa!
Red Blend from Valli Ossolane, Alto Piemonte
Neb from the FAR NORTH ... Stylistically think the more ethereal communes of Valtellina! Brooding and darker than the Ca d’Mate with a build in structure. A little Austere, yet you can see there is much to come with time in bottle. Openning in the glass to reveal woody herbs, fresh sour cherry and complexities beyond.Such a different balance point to Barolo & Barbaresco. 13.5% sees vibrant fruit with layered dusty ripe tannins, whereas Barolo and Barbaresco need 14.5% for the same. En
Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont
Absolutely delicious, beautiful weighting and flow, lovely acid profile & florals, refreshing just a lick of phenolics to add play to the texture. So much energy and direction. A little bit of soft green leafy herb. Spice, nicely layered lees. Harmonious. Complete. Citrus oils, lemon and much more. The fuller and richer of the two as usual.
Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont
The 2020 Cavallina is a fascinating iteration. Epic tension and minerality see it super tightly wound and taking time to resolve and build generosity. I initially tasted this over a year ago and saw the epic potential waiting for us. 6 months later it was only just starting to settle. It's one to be patient with. While the 2021 is a delicious drink straight out of the gate the 2020 is going to need time. It has a wonderful funk that I associate with low pH wines that have seen time on lees. All
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
The 2023 Nebbiolo d'Alba San Sebastiano hails from older vines at Bricco Lago and saw the longer aging required by the appellation. From cask, it is a gorgeous and romising wine. Dark varietal fruit, graphite, lavender, sage and spice soar from the glass. Bright acids and veins of tannin shape this vibrant, wonderfully salivating Nebbiolo I can't wait to taste it from bottle.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 90-93 Points
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
Speller is on the money, this is still closed (April 2023). Builds with time in the glass, the fruit leans toward the fine Burgundian style. The tannins are just a little edgy, as with the Brunello, as the new Botti season future vintages should see further refinement to the texture. This clearly sits in between the Rosso & Brunello level. I like the cranberry descriptor and would add a musk and rose top note. A few years in bottle should see the tannins resolve fully and mid-palate weight
Pinot Noir from Lombardy, Italy
Bruna Giacosa persists with her father’s interest in producing a very small batch sparkling wine in most good vintages, a Blanc de Noirs made in methode Champenois and aged on lees for between 2-3 years. Though a curio even in the storied history of Giacosa, it is a wine steeped in historical significance for the winery. An avid lover of the great house Champagnes, Giacosa sought to create his own ‘metodo classico’ that was distinctly Italian stylistically. In the early 1980s, the modern
What a wonderful exploration of Trebbiano the wines of Ciavolich, Tiberio and Emidio Pepe. On the continuum Tiberio is the freshest with least oxidative handling, Ciavolich is in the middle and Emidio Pepe has the full beans! All are delightful expression and all that is left for us to do is enjoy and celebrate the difference.The 2024 is just the second vintage of Ciavolich's Trebbiano 'Fosso Cancelli' I've seen. Bought it on spec after devouring a bottle of the 2021. The 2024 is serious
Nebbiolo from Grumello, Valtellina
Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! This is where the largest strides have been made. We’ve seen both of the Grumello Riservas priced at the same point now. Whatever is happening in the vineyard or winery to make that happen is translating into this Superiore (ArPePe makes either Superiores or Riservas in
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
Zippy fresh line of acid with vibrant red fruits, a fine line of more linear long tannin. Lacing of slatey, darkness. Tight and of tension that will reward a couple of years in bottle to resolve and for the mid-palate to build. All is in the right place and ready to come together and deliver. The harmony.Tasted again from the open bottle 4 days on and the transformation was well underway. DJ 02xTIME dialed the Rosso in. Whilst not a replica for time in bottle, a bloody good insight!�
Nebbiolo from Grumello, Valtellina
Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! Of the three Superiores this looks the darkest, the tannins sit more aggressively, yet, not overly so. With a plate of food you'd not notice. A little shorter than the other Superiores. The acid appears higher. Another complex offering from Ar.Pe.Pe. A little disjointed at the moment. It is the wine I am least certain of in term of it's evolution as it ages.
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
When a young winery pop's up a little leg work is required to suss them out. Obviously, the most important thing is what's in the glass. Let's add the other bits of the equation though. The vineyards are right next to Olek Bondonio's joint, they used to supply their Neb to Dante Scaglione at Bruno Giacosa for ten years, and Dante helped them start their own venture. BOOM!The 2019 Barbaresco is playful expression, strawberries and cream lift from the glass. The label is a visual descriptor of
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