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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Muskat Ottonel from Alsace, France
“The 2021 Muscat was grown in the Clos des Capucins, the walled vineyard surrounding the house. It has a lovely lemon and elderflower scent, like a spring breeze. The palate is very fluid, almost rounded, and bone-dry, making this a charming, light-bodied aperitif style. There is the merest edge of phenolics which adds a little structure. The finish is lemony and dry.”Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous 90 Points
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
Drawn from three hectares on the steep slopes opposite Fourchaume, Bessin’s ‘flagship’ cuvée is blended from six parcels of the domaine’s oldest village-level vines in La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne. These vines were planted between 1950 and 1974 across Kimmeridgian marl and Portlandian soils of varying exposures. The grapes were pressed as bunches and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wine aged for 18 months in a temperature-controlled tank, with a small amount going into neutral oak. A
Chardonnay from Meursault, Côte du Beaune
Bourgogne from Meursault Vineyards! Proving once again that you have to know the fruit source of any Bourgogne level wines. Javillier's are both from vineyards in Meursault. The Cuvée de Forgets from the Volnay side and the Cuvée Oligocène from the Puligny side.
Shiraz/Syrah from Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhône
Love the perfume here very complete long layered fine, dark and red fruit with brooding and stalk. Harmonious with subtle pepper pop. Excellent élévage, fine acid. Build in structure and mid-palate grip, giving energy. Playful fun.Excellent comparision with Hauts Châssis’ Saint-Joseph made with no whole bunches.Saturated violet color. Vibrant, spice-tinged dark berry, cherry, potpourri and licorice aromas are sharpened by a smoky mineral flourish. Fresh blackberry and bitter
Blend from Vallée de la Marne, Champagne
There's a lot to enjoy now and it'll be hard to keep your hands off it! Excellent, tension, playful, with personality. Plenty going on layered very complex. The quality of fruit is clear, wonderful depth and length. A little edge of honey development. Baking spice crème pâtissière layer in. The balance of the 3 varieties makes for a very complete wine. All showing their form and making for a wine greater than the sum of its parts. My preference for fizz with a little development will be ric
Gamay Noir from Moulin à Vent, Beaujolais
“The most powerful wine in the range is the 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Le Plantier de Favre, a rich and ripe cuvée that wafts from the glass with notes of cherries, rose petals and blackberries, framed by a subtle patina from its élevage in used oak. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with an ample mid-palate and succulent acids, it's fleshy and enveloping, concluding with an expansive finish.” William Kelly, The Wine Advocate
Gamay Noir from Moulin à Vent, Beaujolais
“One of the more perfumed, elegant wines in this year's collection is the 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Les Brussellions, a medium to full-bodied, ample and layered red evocative of plums, red berries, rose petals and spices. Deep and concentrated, it's structured around ultra-refined tannins.” William Kelly, The Wine Advocate
Gamay Noir from Moulin à Vent, Beaujolais
“Aromas of raspberries, plums, peonies and warm spices introduce the 2019 Fleurie Grille-Midi, a medium to full-bodied, layered and lively wine that's delicate and refined, with ripe tannins and a succulent core of fruit. As was the case in 2018, this is one of the most elegant wines in the range.” William Kelly, The Wine Advocate
Shiraz/Syrah from Cornas, Northern Rhône
Glimmering violet color. Mineral-accented dark berries and licorice on the pungent, incisive nose. Offers gently sweet blackberry, blueberry and bitter cherry flavors that show very good clarity and spicy lift. A floral note appears on the nicely tannic, persistent finish, which features resonating cherry and black pepper notes.Josh Raynolds, Vinous 90-91 PointsThe least expensive, but still ageworthy, wine is the Le Vin des Amis, a blend of young-vine Cornas and Syrah grown just sou
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
Here too there is enough wood influence suffusing the aromas of mineral reduction, pretty floral wisps, spice and iodine to merit mentioning. I very much like the sophisticated texture of the acceptably concentrated middleweight flavors that deliver excellent depth and length on the firm, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. Unlike the Fourchaume which could be reasonably approached young, this more compact effort will need at least a few years of keeping first.Burghound ♥ Sweet Spo
Pinot Noir from Rully, Côte Chalonnaise
Very good. Savoury, earthy, dark, wonderful textural, refinement, layers of red and black fruits & a little spice. Beautifully made. Musk and woody herb / stalk. An impressive rendition particularly for this coin. Balanced by a lovely line of natural acid and excellent fine tannins with just the right amount of grip for the fruit weight. There’s a lot of pleasure to be had here and it will definitely offer more over the coming years.Jancis Robinson MW has written that the wines f
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
“A nose of freshness – almost cold and saline – it has my attention. Mouth-filling. Super energy to this wine – plenty of citrus bitters again that slightly modify the texture – interestingly you note the barrel more in the flavours this time than the aromas – the reverse of the last wine – but the elevage was the same. Again, a great wine but wait 2 -3 years”Bill Nanson“More lemon than lime, a little touch of coconut, the wine has the intensity to handle it, amazin
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