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France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

Showing of wines

Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Grand Cru ‘Chambertin Clos de Bèze’ 2020

Moderately generous wood and menthol fight somewhat with the exuberantly spicy black cherry liqueur-like aromas that are cut with lovely floral wisps. There is excellent concentration to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that are blessed with ample amounts of sappy dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the firm tannic spine shaping the complex, balanced and hugely long finale. Excellent. 2035+Allen Meadows, Burghound

Vintage 2020
$1,320
$1300ea in any 3+
$1280ea in any 6+

Chardonnay from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune

Domaine de la Vougeraie Grand Cru ‘Bâtard-Montrachet’ 2022

Generous but not dominant wood sets off intensely floral-suffused aromas of white peach, spice, acacia and citrus confit. The palate impression of the medium-bodied flavors is not as dense, mineral-driven or powerful but they are still impressive, especially in the context of having even better depth and persistence. This is a stylish and ageworthy Bâtard. (from a .38 ha holding divided into 3 parcels, two of which are on the Chassagne side and the remainder on the Puligny side of the divide) 2

Vintage 2022
$1,323
$1303ea in any 3+
$1283ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine de la Vougeraie Grand Cru ‘Bonnes-Mares’ 2022

There is ample earth character to the markedly floral-scented nose of various red berries, soft wood and a hint of smoked game. The beautifully textured, if not particularly concentrated middleweight flavors possess excellent vibrancy as well as focused power that seems to build on the beautifully long finish that really tightens up as it sits on the palate. This is a deceptive wine in that it seems a bit light but delivers superb flavor authority. (from a .70 ha parcel of vines near the Morey b

Vintage 2022
$1,325
$1305ea in any 3+
$1285ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Saint-Georges’ 2022

This is spicier still with its broad-ranging nose of red and dark pinot fruit, violet and herbal tea, all of which is trimmed by soft wood influence. There is a bit more minerality present on the vibrant and lavishly rich medium weight flavors that possess excellent power that carries over to the firm and tautly muscular finish that is balanced and long plus it’s less austere than usual. Lovely. 2032+ ♥ OutstandingAllen Meadows, Burghound (91-94) Points JM 96It hard to talk about

Vintage 2022
$1,342
$1322ea in any 3+
$1302ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Grand Cru ‘Bonnes-Mares’ 2017

A very ripe yet agreeably fresh nose reflects notes of blue berry, plum liqueur and violet that are cut with spice and earth hints. The exceptionally rich and impressively full-bodied flavors evidence a taut muscularity, all wrapped in an overtly powerful and lingering finish that is naturally sweet. As one would reasonably expect this is quite firm but the 2017 version appears to be a bit less structured than it usually is. 2029+. Burghound

Vintage 2017

Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Armand Rousseau Grand Cru ‘Clos de la Roche’ 2023

As is also usually the case, this is ever-so-slightly riper than the Mazy with its nose of poached plum, cassis, earth and a whiff of violet. There is excellent punch, if only average density, to the muscular and solidly powerful flavors that display a more subtle bead of minerality on the strikingly long and balanced finale that is less austere than is typical for this wine. This should also be approachable after only 7 to 8 years.Allen Meadows, Burghound 92-94 PointsThe 2023 Clos d

Vintage 2023

Chardonnay from Puligny-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune

Domaine de la Vougeraie Grand Cru ‘Beinvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet’ 2022

Here the elegant nose is cooler and more restrained with a much more discreet application of wood framing the layered spicy aromas of honeysuckle, white peach and a variety of floral nuances. The notably more refined and beautifully textured flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a persistent, balanced and markedly dry finale that is unusually powerful. This BBM is terrific and classy, indeed it’s impressively poised for such a young wine. (from a .46 ha holdi

Vintage 2022
$1,370
$1350ea in any 3+
$1330ea in any 6+

Blend from Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims

Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millesime 2015

This is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from 40-year-old vines in Ambonnay. The Egly family select the grapes for this wine at harvest and raise the wine completely in barrel. There was only 1 g/L dosage. It is a seductive, layered, powerful expression of Ambonnay, and, as with the Blanc de Noirs, it undoubtedly represents one of Champagne’s greatest wines.2015 was a wonderful year for Egly-Ouriet, and the result is a strikingly beautiful wine with floral notes, great energy and tremendo

Vintage 2015
$1,388
$1368ea in any 3+
$1348ea in any 6+
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Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune Riesling MAG 2017
Divine, Pure, Delicious!

Riesling from Alsace, France

Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune Riesling MAG 2017

Ask any Riesling tragic the Top 5 Rieslings in the World & they'll have Clos Sainte Hune on their list! Each region around the world has epic producers, in Alsace you think of Albert Mann, Zind Humbrecht, Ostertag and always Trimbach. Trimbach has certainly had plenty of practice. In only nine years they’ll celebrate the families 400thyear making wine! The first celebrated release of Clos Ste Hune was in 1919."Vivid straw-green with gold highlights. Highly aromatic on the nose, revealing

Vintage 2017 Magnum 1.5L
$1,390
$1370ea in any 3+
$1350ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Faiveley ‘Chambertin Clos de Bèze’ Grand Cru 2022

I had Faiveley's 2015 Latricières Chambertin recently, delicious, perfumed elegant and refined. Along with the 2015, I devoured a brace of 2016's from across the appellations. They are really stepping up their game, the investments in the vineyard and winery are a testament to this.A classic Bèze nose of spice, earth and plenty of floral influence leads to succulent and round yet decidedly intense, muscular and powerful flavors that coat the mouth with sappy dry extract while deliverin

Vintage 2022
$1,494
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Chardonnay from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune

Domaine Marc Morey Grand Cru ‘Bâtard-Montrachet’ 2023

An exuberantly floral-suffused nose is replete with notes of spicy white orchard fruit, petrol, citrus confit and barely perceptible wood influence. There is better volume and power to the broad-shouldered that possess good if not special mid-palate density before terminating in a citrus-influenced finish that is compact, long and impeccably well-balanced. This too would benefit from developing better depth so at least 5 to 7 years of keeping would be the roughly expected minimum. Drink: 2033+

Vintage 2023

Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Grand Cru ‘Bonnes-Mares’ 2022

Note: from a 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the far southern portion of the vineyard. An even spicier and more floral-suffused nose is comprised mostly by blue pinot fruit and discreet earth wisps. The succulent, refined and vibrant medium-bodied flavors aren't especially concentrated though they do possess impressive power on the beautifully long and equally well-balanced finale. This is a wine that is certainly built to repay extended keeping but it's not so compact

Vintage 2022
$1,535
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