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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
Faiveley is definitely a Domaine on the Ascention - Clos de Bèze is one of their very best vineyards! I had Faiveley's 2015 Latricières Chambertin recently, delicious, perfumed elegant and refined. Along with the 2015, I devoured a brace of 2016's from across the appellations. They are really stepping up their game, the investments in the vineyard and winery are a testament to this.This is softly oaky with a wonderfully spicy array of black cherry, pungent earth and evident sauvage nuances
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
"The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of red berries, cherries and cassis mingled with hints of smoked meats, black truffle and loamy soil. Full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping, its ample core of lively fruit is framed by a muscular chassis of ripe, powdery tannins."William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
"Deeper and more structured than the Griotte, Lignier's 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with notes of blackcurrants, cherries, sweet soil tones, wilted rose petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, it's ample and voluminous, with velvety tannins, succulent acids and a broad, expansive finish."William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has turned out especially well, wafting from the glass with aromas of peonies, sweet wild berries, orange rind, loamy soil and rose petals. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, with velvety tannins and an ample core of vibrant, perfumed fruit, it concludes with a long, seamless finish. This may well emerge as Lignier's finest Charmes of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio.William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 93-95+
Pinot Noir from Vosne-Romanée, Côte-de-Nuits
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, once again the nose is overtly floral in character with its exuberantly spicy nose of various dark berries, soy, exotic tea and sandalwood. The sleek, intense and delineated flavors are at once refined yet powerful with a taut muscularity becoming more apparent on the dusty, youthfully austere and stony finish that is compact and very serious. Patience. (from a .97 ha holding; 80% whole clusters). Drink: 2034+ ♥ Don’t miss! OutstandingAllen
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
There is an interesting hint of smoked meat character to the spicy plum, newly turned earth and softly floral-scented nose. Once again there is an appealing texture to the broad-shouldered and muscular flavors that possess fine volume before concluding in a very firmly structured and impressively long finale. This too could use better depth but this should make for impressive old bones if given a chance. (from a .32 ha parcel) 2037+Allen Meadows, Burghound (93-95) Points
Pinot Noir from Vosne-Romanée, Côte-de-Nuits
This is the first wine to display any meaningful level of reduction and here it’s enough to push the fruit to the background. By contrast there is a lovely sense of verve and freshness on the palate of the sleek but intense and generously proportioned medium weight plus flavors that coat the mouth on the sneaky long finish. While this could use better depth, the underlying material is such that more is all but guaranteed to develop. (from a .11 ha parcel in Poullailères). 2034+Allen Mead
Chardonnay from Puligny-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
Mid lemon yellow. Some delicacy, without disputing the imminent power. A pure bench of fresh white fruit, actually this is more about nuances than power, though it maintains energy all the way through, to a fine long finish. Love the tension, and the finesse, while some other versions may be more intense.94-97 Points, Jasper Morris – Inside Burgundy Drink: 2030-2038The 2022 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of peach, ripe citrus fruits, white
Chardonnay from Meursault, Côte du Beaune
This is also airy and cool with a beautifully layered nose featuring notes of green apple, white flowers and a discreet hint of exotic tea. The almost painfully intense, sleek and tension-filled flavors display beautiful cut and minerality while delivering superb length on the chiseled, linear and youthfully austere finale. This is seriously impressive with fine depth and length, indeed this is altogether classy. If you can find it, buy it. ♥ Sweet spot OutstandingAllen Meadows, Burghoun
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
"Here the brooding and very restrained nose is certainly ripe yet it's still almost classic with its aromas of mineral reduction, citrus peel, sea breeze, oyster shell and apple. Once again, the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sleek with outstanding intensity along with abundant minerality while exhibiting excellent power on the dense and serious and bone-dry finish that also displays huge length. I did note just enough backend warmth to mention though otherwise this is superb. D
Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits
Here too the nose is overtly floral in character with its layered blend of red and dark raspberry, warm earth and discreet spice wisps. There is again very fine mid-palate density to the slightly bigger-bodied tension-filled flavors that flash evident muscle and power on the moderately austere, firmly structured and impressively long finish. Patience strongly advised. 2035+ (from a .24 ha mix of two-thirds terres rouges and one-third terres blanches).Allen Meadows, Burghound 91-94 Points
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
I generally have a slight preference for Dauvissat's Les Preuses, a preference I suspect Vincent Dauvissat shares, but the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, at least at this early stage, gets my nod as the king of the cellar—and the wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, fresh bread, oyster shell, white flowers and wet stones, it's full-bodied, layered and textural, with huge concentration, racy acids and a long, resonant finish.William Kelley, The Wine Advoc
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