Getting Your Head Around Burgundy Part 1 – Vineyards, Classifications & Villages
This will be the first in many articles to help you understand Burgundy, the mythical home of Pinot Noir & Chardonnay.
Understanding Burgundy Starts with the Different Villages & After that it Just Keeps Getting Better!
All have been classified according to the quality of fruit they are capable of producing.
The Classifications
From top to bottom the quality classifications are:
Grand Cru – Specific single vineyards of the highest classification. Only 1% of production. You’ll know you’re looking at a “Grand Cru” if it is written on the label in addition to the specific vineyard where the fruit came from.
Premier Cru – Specific single vineyards. Combined with Village wines making 48% of production. You’ll know you’re looking at a “Premier Cru” or “1er Cru” if it’s written on the label in addition to the specific vineyard where the fruit came from.
Village – Fruit from a specific sub-region ie the village of Puligny-Montrachet that is better than Bourgogne standard, but, not good enough to be classified Premier Cru. Village wine will generally only have the name of the Village written on the label. Some times they will have a vineyard name on the label if there is something special about the particular vineyard the fruit is sourced from.
Bourgogne – Fruit from anywhere in Burgundy. 51% of production. Bourgogne wine will have just Bourgogne written on the label and in a shift from tradition to aid export markets sometimes the variety, Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. They will never have a specific vineyard name on them.
The Regions of Burgundy
The best bit of Burgundy is a thin strip running from North to South around 50km in length, to the South East of Paris
It’s split into three main regions, within each of these regions there are villages which have specific single vineyards planted in them to the varieties red varieties: Pinot Noir and Gamay, and the white varieties: Chardonnay and Aligoté, a lesser variety that produces some fun wines at more affordable prices.
The three main regions in the strip South of Dijon are:
Côte D’Or – meaning the Golden Slope, derived from it’s original name, Côte d’Orient, East Slope, within which rest:
Côte-de-Nuits – South of the city of Dijon and North of the town of Beaune famous for it’s Pinot Noir. The best known villages are: Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-St-Georges and Vosne-Romanée. 5% of Burgundy production including Chablis.
Côte-du-Beaune – The area around and South of Beaune famous for Chardonnay including the 5 Grand Cru vineyards and many very good Pinot producing vineyards. The best known villages are: Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Mersault, Volnay, Pommard and Saint Aubin. 10% of production including Chablis.
Côte-Chalonaise – Mixing more affordable Chardonnay and Pinot that can be of excellent quality. The villages of Rully, Mercurey and Givry producing their best wines.
Mâconnaise– The least regarded of the main regions, still capable of producing some very good wines.
In addition to these, the two regions of Beaujolais, mostly producing Gamay, (at the South end of the Dijon Strip) and Chablis, mostly producing Chardonnay (between the southern part of Champagne and Dijon) are part of the Bourgogne wine region.
Click to view full sized map
Know the Producer. Know their Vineyards
The trick is getting to know your producers and the villages they have plantings in, and, the specific vineyards they hold within these villages.
The single vineyards are known as “Climat” sometimes the single vineyards are surrounds by walls and the “Climat” is called a “Clos”, walled vineyard. Within a single vineyard there are often “Lieux-dits”, these are parts of the single vineyard that have a specific topography or historical nature.
Let’s drill down with an example going down to the single vineyard level.
Region: Burgundy
Main Sub-Region: Côte D’Or
Minor Sub-Region: Côte-des-Nuits
Village: Gevrey-Chambertin (3 down on the right from the top) on the map above.
Single Vineyard or Climats: Chambertin, The best known Grand Cru vineyard. You can see where it is in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin in the map below.
Number of Owners: Last time I looked there were around 23 owners of part of the Chambertin vineyard, just as many négoce wines (wines made with fruit purchased from vineyard owners).
Number of Wines Made: and Labelled “Chambertin Grand Cru”. Around 40 with a dozen producers doing a good job. Wine is produced from vineyards owned or leased by producers or from purchased fruit. This is where you really need to get to know your vineyards and producers! Frances hereditary title laws have seen lands vineyards split between siblings to the point where some hold so few vines of a plot they can not even make a single barrel of wine from it. These usually end up being sold or leased.
What does all this mean?
To understand Burgundy you need to know a few key things.
Where the fruit comes from? If it’s classified “Village” or “Premier Cru” is it a good village or lesser one for that variety? If it’s classified “Bourgogne” where does the fruit come from? Philippe Chavy’s Bourgogne entry level Chardonnay is made using fruit sourced from Puligny-Montrachet, 90%, and Mersault 10%. Basically, it comes from two of the best villages for Chardonnay in Burgundy. Yet, it is still classified Bourgogne as would be a Chardonnay of this classification from a lesser village.
Which are the best vineyards? If it’s a Grand Cru vineyard it’s been identified as one of the best. After that, it’s great to look for Premier Cru vineyards that sit right next to a Grand Cru. The Premier Cru Chardonnay vineyard “Les Pucelles” in Puligny-Montrachet is right next to the two Grand Crus Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet. Then the Village Vineyards right next to a Grand Cru or Premier Cru vineyard. There are also some well-known Premier Cru vineyards, such as Les Amoureuses in the village of Chambolle-Musigny and Clos Saint-Jacques in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin and Les Grandes Ruchottes in Chassagne-Montrachet that consistently perform at close to Grand Cru levels. So close, that Burgundians, unofficially give them that status, and, the price of the wines reflect it.
Which are the best producers? A matter of experience. The challenge is the vineyard rating is indicative of the “potential” of the vineyard only. A bad operator will take a Grand Cru vineyard and turn it into pretty ordinary Pinot or Chardonnay. A good operator can take a decent vineyard classified as Bourgogne or Village and make something that deserves to be further up the classification.
If all else fails … Ask us at WINE DECODED! It just takes a lot of time and a lot of drinking.
We regularly have Burgundy offers. Check out our “Offers” page for current and past offers.
… a little more detail on the Climats and Lieux Dits
The further exploration of the Climats and Lieux Dits in Burgundy was prompted by Peter M one of Wine Decoded’s community members. Thanks Peter!
The use of Climats and Lieux Dits in Burgundy has been used to great effect, highlighting the potential (I say potential as the vigneron can still stuff up the vineyard and the wine) quality of different vineyards.
Climats are precisely delineated plots of land that enjoy specific geological and climatic conditions. When combined with human effort and translated through the two great Bourgogne varietals of Pinot Noir for reds and Chardonnay for whites, they give rise to an exceptional range of appellations that are classified according to quality and which enjoy international renown.
The Climats confer their own unique organoleptic qualities onto the wines of Bourgogne, such as their appearance, aromas, flavours and texture. Some Climats were first referenced as far back as the 7th century, such as Clos de Bèze in Gevrey. For centuries, the reputation of Bourgogne wines was driven by the monks of Cîteaux, and then by the Dukes of Bourgogne. Some wines, such as Clos Vougeot and Montrachet, which bore the name of the Climat where they were grown, acquired a reputation that extended beyond French borders.
In 1935, the National Institute for Origins and Quality (INAO), made official the usage of the word “Climat” and began using it in legal texts applying to all Bourgogne appellations, whatever their level of hierarchy. The Climats are a sign of excellence and on 4 July 2015, the Climats were included on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Lieux-dits: intimately linked to the Climats
Lieux-dits are also plots recognized for their own topographic or historical specificities. Their precise geographical location is not registered by the INAO.
A certain number of producers choose to feature the name of their lieu-dit on their labels, such as Pouilly-Fuissé, Le Clos Reyssié.
BURGUNDY’S VINEYARDS – “CLIMATS” OR WHAT?
When the Romans settled in Burgundy, they planted vines on the plains, at the foot of the Côte d’Or to their West. During ensuing centuries, land was gradually cleared on the forested slopes of the Côte, mainly for mixed farming including grape growing. This land proved highly suitable for viticulture, with the slope providing drainage, adequate nutrition and good exposition to the sun. Thus, over time, viticulture became the main agricultural pursuit of the Côte.
As vineyards were developed, they became known through common usage by individual names (that is, place-names, in French lieux-dits plural, lieu-dit singular). Such names served, in effect, as geographic identifiers, somewhat analogous to an “address”. Their origins often lie in aspects of the landscape – for example, the word “Charmes”, which is found in quite a few lieux-dits, refers most probably to the hornbeam tree having been planted on the site before clearing for viticulture.
In 1807, Napoléon initiated a plan (the Cadastre) to survey France’s lands, with Burgundy being surveyed mainly in the 1820s. This survey thus gave official recognition to the many hundreds of existing lieux-dits. But, more than that, it delineated the plot(s) of the individual owner(s) within each lieu-dit – the survey being necessary to support the title to the land, as is the case with the Australian land registry systems.
In the main, vignerons referred to these same vineyards as climats, which has vague connotations of weather/exposure/slope etc. Thus, the term was used interchangeably with lieu-dit. Gradually, however, the word climat became used in the context of a vineyard’s “quality”. Thus, when Burgundy’s vineyards were classified qualitatively, via the 1935 AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) system, the term “climat” was reserved for the top 2 tiers (grand cru and premier cruvineyards), although in the vast majority of cases the named climat is identical to the corresponding lieu-dit. In contrast, the third quality tier – village-level vineyards – were officially recognised only as lieux-dits.
There are many named vineyards – lieux-dits – that are not recognised individually in the above, top three, tiers of the AOC classification. Such individual vineyards thus have no official status and are grouped together under a collective appellation such as Bourgogne. However, some makers do quote the name of the vineyard/lieu-dit (e.g. Domaine René Cacheux’s Bourgogne “Les Champs d’Argent”). Presumably, this reflects the fact that this wine comes from a specific vineyard within the respective village boundary (in this case, the village of Vosne-Romanée) despite the fact that the AOC deemed this lieu-dit worthy only of a generic Bourgogne classification.
Just to confuse matters, many vignerons and commentators refer to the vineyard as a terroir – as distinct from the terroir of the vineyard – which word is thus often used interchangeably with climat and lieu-dit. But, the matter of “terroir” is complex and unsettled, a subject for another day…
To put a contemporary spin on this topic, since the Côte d’Or was given World Heritage listing in 2015, the official Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) has focussed on use of the word “climat” to describe all of the classified vineyards – despite its use being restricted by the AOC to the top two tiers. This reflects the fact that the nature and uniqueness of the Côte’s climats was a major focal point of the campaign to achieve World Heritage recognition.
There's a great purity & vibrancy to Magnien's wines. His Faconnières is superb!
Once again there is a plethora of floral elements present on the elegant nose of red currant, cherry and pretty spice wisps. The succulent, fleshy and punchy middleweight flavors a really lovely texture that carries over to the youthfully austere and delicately balanced finale. Excellent. Drink: 2032+Allen Meadows, Burghound 91-93 Points
A discreet application of wood suffuses the restrained and beautifully layered nose of mineral reduction, iodine, tidal pool, white orchard fruit and a vague hint of phenolic character. The super-sleek, dense and intense broad-shouldered flavors possess a palate etching mouthfeel while delivering simply remarkable length on the stony, austere and very dry finale that is akin to rolling small rocks around the mouth. The intensity really builds as it sits on the palate and overall, this beauty is
About Mongeard-Mugneret The Mongeard family arrived in Vosne-Romanée in the 1620, with records showing a Mongeard working as vigneron for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in 1786. Their legacy now spans over eight generations, however they continue to produce wine with the utmost respect for tradition. In 1945, Jean Mongeard, whose mother was a Mugneret, found […]
Bright and vibrant ruby colour. On the nose there is a seductive and aromatic bouquet shared between aromas of red fruits such as black cherry, raspberry and a finish of floral and spicy notes.
The palate distinguishes itself with freshness nourished by a fully integrated acidity which reveals fruity and once again spicy flavours of this wine. The palate is silky and balanced thanks to ripe and fine tannins. They soften the palate and lengthen its sensation of rich and elegant texture. They n
A combination of three parcels throughout the famous Sanford & Benedict vineyard. Two of the plantings are 10-12 years old, but certainly responsible for the dark, deep core of this wine. The third piece, a small fermentation of the original, own-rooted plantings from 1971, brings the elegance and floral lift.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points
“The 2022 Meursault Clos du Cromin may lack a bit of bandwidth on the nose: quite strict citric fruit, a touch of grass clippings, and a bit closed on the day. The palate is well-balanced with good depth on the entry, orange rind, tangerine and grapefruit towards the long, if slightly attenuated, finish.”
Neal Martin, Vinous 87-89 Points JM 90-92
*Check out Patrick Javillier's Meursault Clos du Cromin too!
An airier and mildly cooler nose reflects notes of mineral reduction, white flowers and the hallmark citrus influences. The sleeker though not denser middleweight flavors possess a more refined mouthfeel as well as more evident minerality that seems to build on the bitter lemon-tinged, dry and sneaky long finale. Lovely stuff and this generously proportioned effort should also reward up to a decade of keeping. Drink 2030+ ♥ Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound 91 Points WK 92-94
Price on Application – Contact us.
This is the finest bottle of Rousseau's 2001 Chambertin I have ever had. With each taste, the 2001 has something new to say. At times, it is the aromatics that stand out. In other moments, the wine's structure, energy and overall complexity are totally alluring. Dark and brooding, with compelling inner sweetness, the 2001 simply can't be denied. It is utterly profound. It is as simple as that.
This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven
Price on Application – Contact us.
Rousseau's 2002 Chambertin is in the zone. Succulent, racy and open, the 2002 is ready to deliver pleasure. The purity of the fruit alone is striking. Even so, the 2002 is still very much at the early part of its first plateau of maturity, as the flavors remain very bright and fresh. In this vertical, the 2002 comes across as a wine of immediacy, with a bit less structure and overall energy than the very best vintages. I say that with some hesitation,
Price on Application – Contact us.
Good medium red. Strawberry, coffee, rose petal and smoky oak on the nose. Sweet, ripe and plump, with aromatic flavors of plum and spicy oak. Here the nearly 100% new oak percentage (the foregoing wines get little or no new oak) adds considerable sex appeal and nicely frames the wine's rather delicate fruit. Finishes long, subtle and aromatic, with an impression of finer tannins.
Neal Martin, Vinous 90 Points Tasted Mar 2004
Rousseau's 2001
Price on Application – Contact us.
The 2001 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has astonishing intensity on the nose, perhaps more like a 1999, with copious black cherries, black truffle, juniper berries and eucalyptus. It seems incredibly young even when juxtaposed against Méo-Camuzet’s Cros Parantoux from the same vintage. The palate is medium-bodied, quite structured and grippy, backward and rather masculine yet with disarming poise. This Clos-de-Bèze is only just beginning to s
Price on Application – Contact us.
The 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is just a tiny bit smudged on the nose, but it rectifies that with aeration, offering disarming brambly red fruit, bergamot and potpourri scents, just a slight ferrous tincture in the background. The palate is fine-boned with pure red fruit, structured and slightly disjointed initially. Yet it coheres magnificently in the glass, so smooth. I was shocked when the vintage was revealed because this bo
Price on Application – Contact us.
Good medium red. Strawberry, coffee, rose petal and smoky oak on the nose. Sweet, ripe and plump, with aromatic flavors of plum and spicy oak. Here the nearly 100% new oak percentage (the foregoing wines get little or no new oak) adds considerable sex appeal and nicely frames the wine's rather delicate fruit. Finishes long, subtle and aromatic, with an impression of finer tannins.
Neal Martin, Vinous 90 Points Tasted Mar 2004
Rousseau's 2001
Price on Application – Contact us.
Good ruby-red. Black raspberry, licorice and chocolatey oak on the nose. Offers compelling lushness, sweetness and fat for a 2002; wonderfully harmonious from the outset. Very suave, clearly defined flavors of blackberry and blueberry retain their shape through to the very long aftertaste. Tannins are quite fine.
Neal Martin, Vinous 94+ Points Tasted Mar 2005
The 2002 Chambertin Clos de Beze bursts with spicy red cherry aromas. This medium t
Price on Application – Contact us.
Full ruby-red. Extraordinarily perfumed, profound nose combines tangy black raspberry, rose petal, coffee and game; essence of Cote de Nuits pinot noir. Lush, sweet and seamless; wonderfully silky and aromatic in the mouth. Truly palate-staining wine, with compelling sweetness and smooth, thoroughly buffered tannins.
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous 94+ Points Tasted Mar 2002
The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Chambertin Clos de Beze has a beguiling
Price on Application – Contact us.
There is a slightly cloudy aspect to the appearance. This has begun to turn secondary with overtly earthy and sauvage characters to the perfumed and pure aromas that lead to rich, punchy, intense and tautly muscular flavors that exude a fine minerality on the utterly delicious, balanced and long if robustl finish where a hint of wood surfaces. I have had two very different experiences with this wine as one bottle seemed relatively light and almost rea
Price on Application – Contact us.
An exceptionally pretty, even perfumed nose is still relatively primary with its combination of various red berries, earth and soft earth and leather nuances. There is excellent size and weight to the seductively rich but overtly powerful big-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding length where the only minor nit is a touch of warmth. This remains notably robust and will need at least another 5 to 10 years to arrive at its full peak. In a word, impres
Price on Application – Contact us.
Like night and day between this and the Mazis as here there is much more weight, size, earth and power with a much firmer tannic spine plus an edgier, more complex finish. This is still a bit awkward but it should benefit from another 6 months in cask. This too could be the best Rousseau Clos de la Roche in several vintages.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points Tasted Jan 2004 Drink: Try from 2008-2017
The 2002 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru ha
Price on Application – Contact us.
Initially this opens with just enough reduction to push the fruit to the background so if you're going to try a bottle anytime soon I would strongly suggest decanting it first. Once the reduction clears off there are airy and cool notes of Asian-style green tea, truffle and an array of red berry fruit scents. The intense and intensely mineral-driven middle weight flavors display excellent vibrancy on the beautifully long if ever-so-slightly edgy and y
Price on Application – Contact us.This too is very forward and pretty but there's more depth and structure than usual. The medium weight flavors are very supple, ripe and nicely elegant with mouth coating sap and relatively pliant tannins. There is better finishing intensity than usual and this is the best vintage of this wine than I've seen in a while.<
Allen Meadows, Burghound 88-91 Points Tasted Jan 2004Palish medium red. Light, lively aromas of red fruits and rose peta
You'd be hard pressed to fined a better value Pinot than this! Cherry, plum, baking spice, a little more earthy – more bass than treble here – some vanilla, thyme and mint in the mix too. It’s full of juicy red and black fruited flavour, a slight orange peel amaro twist through it, a pleasing amount of grainy/silty tannin, kind of autumnal too, a little rhubarb and spice, with a juicy and sappy finish of excellent length. Lots of flavour and a good amount of chewy texture. It’s balance o
Perfect intro to Hoddle's Creek Chardonnay! Cool Upper Yarra Valley Fruit = Wine of Poise & Great Intensity! Cool(ish) year, small yields. This is the best HCE Chardonnay I can recall tasting.White peach, green pear, a little citrus, fine spicy oak, almond, discreet struck match. It’s tight, but has flavour, plenty of flinty and chalky texture, ripe lemon and lemon peel, almond biscotti and green olive, firm crunch of pure acidity, and a long and racy finish that so mouth-watering and zest
This is the second wine we have made from this nearly 30 year old Macedon Ranges vineyard. The Glenhope vineyard is planted at 450m above sea level on the granite soil at the northern end of the region. The wine is made in the same way we make Bindi Chardonnays; destemmed berries go into the press and the juice is taken straight from the tray into the barrels, around 30% of which are new small French oak. The fermentation occurs without yeast addition and the wine remains on all lees for ten mon
The Willow Lake has excellent depth and length, with the acid to match the fruit intensity. It needs the most time to resolve of Adrian's 3 Chardonnays. When it does it is going to be freaky good. Australian Chardonnay just keeps getting better and better. Last year I was tasting a line of OK white Burgundy then moved onto A.Rodda's Chardonnays & BOOM! They're superb wines.The Willow Lake has excellent depth and length, with the acid to match the fruit intensity. It needs the most time t
Excellent élévage calm, saline, beautiful core of delicate yet flavourful fruit white stone fruit a little citrus oil, a savoury twist all wrapped in a fine flowing texture with just the right amount of phenolic grip.Another example of a Petit Chablis pushing above its standing, a trend we’re seeing with the better producers.Certified organic. Defaix’s Chablis villages is drawn from four parcels of mature, 30-plus-year-old vines situated around Milly and Poinchy, on the left bank
D'Anna + Middleton + Lewis = DML VIN Pinot! Red cherry, plum, spice, a little samphire and thyme, a slight smokiness too, and dried roses. It’s fine, but offers more grunt and substance than the more delicate Yarra Valley offering, more grain and grip through the tannin, poached strawberry and ripe pomegranate with a bit of crunch on a long finish. It’s lively and regional, and so nicely turned out. Gary Walsh
D'Anna + Middleton + Lewis = DML VIN Pinot! It’s very pretty and refined. All fresh raspberry and red cherry, floral perfume and a dusting of spice, kind of juicy, but nicely composed, expanding and filling the mouth with flavour and gentle emery tannin, fresh and long through the finish. Wholesome feeling, classic styling, and just lovely to drink Gary Walsh
Showing exactly how important vine age is! A step up, an extra zip of salty acid and that mid palate weight with excellent length. Florals, white stone fruit a little citrus pith and plenty of fun. That slight primary edge that disappeared as it opened revealing excellent depth and length with restraint. A little more complexity. Mid palate texture is excellent. Hazelnuts and an extra layer of pleasure here. Excellent.
The pedigree of this fruit at the Chablis level is pretty bloody good! It's from a 50 year old parcel adjacent to the Grand Cru, Blanchot!
Bloody tasty Village. Beautifully weighted and developed. Often at this level Chablis can be thin and raw. Testut here, as with all his wines shows a deft touch in raise the wine and building generosity. A wine that can be hoovered now, it’ll drink well over the next few years. Great flow across your palate, fine, sophisticated, perfect everyday drinking
Showing much more freshness & red fruit profile than the atypical 2021, sits fine and velvety on the tannin profile. Long and even. Plush and refreshing. Gently spiced. Elegant flavourful. Harmonious and integrated. Layered complexity with eathiness and a well balanced stalk use adding intrigue. A lovely perfume dancing over the top.
A richer more immediately generous iteration than the 2021 yet with a delicacy and elegance. Perfumed fruit ripe gold apple a little lemon oil at play and a salty pop.
Delicous long fine, supple. Excellent texture, line and length, impressive élévage and that all important mid-palate weight. Complexed by the long slow ferment and time on lees.
Great drinking.
“Here is the only wine that with 100% stainless-steel for all vinification and elevage. All from Lignorelles. That’s a very friendly nose – slightly round and faintly caramel despite tank elevage – an inviting sweetness. A little touch of green in the flavours but also lots of energy and citrus
bitters. Very engaging, tasty wine. Long too.”
Bill Nanson
“All the domaine’s wines are vinified parcel by parcel – this comes from a single parcel in Lignorelles but a big parcel of 5ha and it’s the biggest cuvée of the domaine. Here starting to see a proportion of older barrels for elevage. A similar roundness and sweet invitation to drink. Mouth- filling, silky – here is a super wine for drinking today! The finish is pure and full of energy – again with lovely citrus-skin complexity. That’s really excellent.”
Bill Nanson
Stunning. The texture here is divine. Refined with a delicacy to the long seamless line of acid. Superb flavour profile of ripe lemons & citrus oil, white nectarine, a little green apple, light honey, nutty wild ferment / solids with supple creaminess. Such great drinking.
Superb expression right out of the gate, whilst it will offer much much more with time. Excellent depth and length with layer after layer of flavour. The energy of the fruit is balanced with a darkness, spiced and an intriguing sappy hint. The acidity and tannin marry well offering up a fine long structure.
This is very good. Defaix has given us a restrained, detailed expression of Chablis. Mineral with juicy fruit, citrus, and most importantly loads of personality. The fruit drive is impressive, balanced by lightning energy and zippy acid. The mouthfeel is superb, long and refined with great length. A build in depth and length a little more fine saline acid keeping it fresh and mouthwatering.
Cleverly built up layer after layer with fruit savoury pops élévage that sees it resolved, together
"A wine of subtlety and composure, our 2019 Chardonnay is a wine of real presence. Cool, elegant floral aromas with notes of nectarine, citrus blossom and struck match, develop to offer generosity and richness, with hints of white peach, hazelnut and oatmeal biscuit. The palate is initially lively, creamy and citrus-driven, leading to a lovely touch of pithiness framing the subtle nectarine and lemon curd fruit, and a long, savoury finish. A wine that offers immediate pleasure, but equally, one
The 2021 has classic Kostas lemon, lime and grapefruit aromas mixed with spice, cream, chalk and blossom. It is fresh, racy, mouth filling, textured and very long. It will take 6+ years to mature.
Michael D
“There is a whiff of the exotic present on the petrol-tinged white and yellow orchard fruit scents. There is fine volume to the dense and rich flavors that possess plenty of dry extract on the delicious and sneaky long finish that is shaped by citrus-inflected acidity.”
Allen Meadows, Burghound 87-89
The Dixon comes from part of the original 1988 planting of Pinot Noir at Bindi and some of the 2001 Kaye vineyard. As always, it's bottled a little earlier than the other five Bindi Pinot Noirs; at ten months rather than 15. The wine is made with destemmed fruit and wild yeast in open fermenters and matured in small French oak barrels. The 2023 is immediately fragrant with lifted red cherry, raspberry, strawberry and spice. There is a touch of eathiness and some savoury cherry stone fragrance. T
This is a very fine Kostas Rind, coming from the volcanic soils over clay on the lower Bindi Chardonnay plantings from 1988. Destemmed berries go into the press and the juice is taken straight from the tray into the barrels, around 30% of which are new small French oak. The fermentation occurs without yeast addition and the wine remains on all lees for ten months until just prior to bottling. The 2023 is very fine and pure, with a vibrant lemon/grapefruit brightness complimented by almond meal,
Fascinating tasting this with Burghound’s note and next to a 2020 Guillard ‘Reniard’ from Gevrey-Chambertin. The villages of Savigny-lès-Beaune and Chorey-lès-Beaune tend to show the sunshine a little more compared to those both further south and north. Dark and clearly ripe, Pavelot has maintained energy and vitality. The tannins build to a crescendo along the palate balancing the richness with a fine acid. The shape and flow are generous, yet linear with that quality tannin and persist
Producer and site … that is all!When your Bourgogne is made from vineyards in Meursault and Puligny it really does make a difference. Ballot-Millot has given us a beautifully balanced wine, with a wonderful texture. An excellent Bourgogne with great fresh flavours & a little funk. Drinking beautifully now and good for a few more years.Update Sept 2024: Drinking beautiful, in a great place. The above note still holds true with an added sense of seamless harmony."Ripe and ni
Showing exactly how important vine age is! A step up, an extra zip of salty acid and that mid palate weight with excellent length. Florals, white stone fruit a little citrus pith and plenty of fun. That slight primary edge that disappeared as it opened revealing excellent depth and length with restraint. A little more complexity. Mid palate texture is excellent. Hazelnuts and an extra layer of pleasure here. Excellent.
Pavelot's Top wine rates as one of the few remaining bargains in Burgundy! The 2018 was delicious the 2019 will be in my gob next week!
A perfumed, ripe and cool nose features notes of red currant, black raspberry, violet and a hint of sandalwood. There is very fine mid-palate density with an abundance of sappy dry extract to the velvety and mouth coating flavors that flash good minerality on the powerful, balanced and hugely long finish. This is marvelous but it's also a buy and forget
Super fine of deceptive weight, complexity & transparency. It achieves one of the greatest feats in white wine: elegance with real depth and length, particularly mid-palate weight. with loads of fun. Excellent acid profile and flow. The balance here is impressive. Just delicious, very good, thirst-quenching.Great purity and precision, layered and full of personality.Another terrific wine from this address, the 2020 Viré-Clessé Quintaine exhibits aromas of citrus zest, white flo
Pure & Vibrant! The palate is seamless and finely balanced. This is exceptional Bourgonge pushing up to Village quality! Quite ripe cherry lick of new oak concentrated spice blueberry very dark color, it is very brightly fruited.Intense classic gevrey tannins firm grippy spice oak this is a serious Bourgogne easily could be a village wine, punches well above its appellation.Drink 2028-2038Tom Carson*Limit 1
“So the wine is two thirds a marsanne and roussanne blend and the rest a considered portion of chardonnay. Fancy oak, as is often the way of POCW, is also applied. I loved this from hello. Texture, weight, a slice of fresh cut, just ripe stone fruit acidity, a fuzz to the overall feel with some dollops of nougat amongst it all. Fragrant, full flavoured yet refreshing, a saline trill that speaks of minerality. It’s a cuddly wine with enough zestiness to refresh with each sip. Delicious drinki
Maison Dieu is the name of an actual lieu-dit situated in Pommard but Violot chooses to employ the term cuvée anyway; in the period prior to 1937 this well-situated parcel was declared as Pommard rather than Bourgogne
“Ripe aromas of red berries, plum and plenty of earth lead to voluminous and very rich middle weight flavors that possess a seductive texture before concluding in a clean, refreshing and only mildly rustic finale.”
Burghound
Not all Petit Chablis is created equal! Moreau’s Petit Chablis comes from a single 2.5-hectare site between Courgis and Beine, just outside Chablis on the route to Auxerre. It has a southwest orientation and lies on Kimmeridgian soils (as opposed to the higher Portlandian soils on which most Petit is grown). Half of the plot is home to 25- to 30-year-old vines, while the other half is somewhat older at 45 to 50.
The wine ferments spontaneously in large vats of 32 to 100 hectolitres. This re
The build in intensity of this very complete wine is clear. Yes the acid is there, it has the depth and length to hold it. The mid-palate weight is exceptional and oak use (⅓ new) refined, layered and harmonious.
Perfumed with white flowers, a little baking spice crème pat. Super citrus, white grapefruit and stunning intense lime.
Tasting the 3 side by side as a great way to explore depth, length and shape of fruit.
The separator from so many Chardonnays on the market is the texture,
The most mineral of the 1er's This is where it’s at line length precision harmony. Wicked acid yet the fruit to back it. Fine linear, salty, heading more down the citrus line with a little long ferment nuttiness and Crème Patissiere. Great shape. Crystalline purity. There are things happening here.
Consumed Oct 2023 Those things have been happening!
Over the course of the year a little flesh has been added to the bones, the fermentation artifacts have layered in seamlessly and the b
Another excellent 1.5m, together pure, harmonious, spice, delicate solids, some more immediate generosity. Rounded generosity, layering and complexity. Textural elements are superb, super fine and long. Delicious drinking. The 1.5m Tiers seems to be stepping ever closer to the heights of the Tiers.
Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded
There is a level of sophistication that you typically only see at the next level up, the village wines! “Super-fresh aromas of cool and pretty red berries are laced with earth elements that are also reflected by the vibrant and nicely detailed middle weight flavors that possess fine depth and length for a wine at this level.”
Allen Meadows, 86-89 Points ♥ Outstanding Top value
The fruit for the Bourgogne comes largely from Gevrey-Chambertin with a splash from Brochon.
“Pretty aromas of peach, white flowers, green apple and lemon rind. There is excellent, indeed almost painful, intensity to the solidly concentrated medium weight flavors that exude a refreshing salinity on the bone dry and citrus-suffused finish. At least some patience advised. ♥ Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound
18 months élévage shows in a complete lovely fine expressive, complex Chardonnay. The shift from tasting the Chablis of Bernard Defaix to Côte du Chalonaise wines of Jaeger-Defaix sees an immediate feel of opulence. No bâtonage old oak 100% malo. Again calm and harmonious. Les Cloux remains the tighter and more linear of the Domaine's two Premier Cru whites. Clearly rounder across the palate than the Chablis whilst maintaining clarity and complexity.Here the wood treatment is more su
Rounder, fuller and richer than the Les Cloux a bolder interpretation of Rully. Soft plush and generous, yet still not heavy. A little broader across the back palate though tightening as it finishes. A great set of flavours. A comforting Chardonnay that envelops you. As seems typical of the two Domaines of the family there is a good deal of complexity.
A subtle but not imperceptible application of wood sets off the cool and airy blend of white orchard fruit, citrus confit and a hint of cr
Not all Petit Chablis is created equal! Moreau’s Petit Chablis comes from a single 2.5-hectare site between Courgis and Beine, just outside Chablis on the route to Auxerre. It has a southwest orientation and lies on Kimmeridgian soils (as opposed to the higher Portlandian soils on which most Petit is grown). Half of the plot is home to 25- to 30-year-old vines, while the other half is somewhat older at 45 to 50.
The wine ferments spontaneously in large vats of 32 to 100 hectolitres. This re
The hallmark citrus aromas of a fine Côte de Léchet are present on the nose of quinine, oyster shell and poached apple scents. There is fine volume to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that flash ample minerality on the saline, youthfully austere and focused finale. Lovely.
Burghound ♥ Outstanding 90-93 Points
🔥 HOT TIP - Drink it at 12-14ºC or even a bit warmer to get the most from it.
Stepping up in complexity and layering. A perfume and florals float out of the glass clearly more depth here yet with transparency and clarity that sees a unified personality, harmonious and delicious. Riper flavours than the village Chablis a little more power. Low perceived acidity, still plenty. Those hallmark Defaix savoury, creamy characters at play.
“Five star wine. Mid lemon colour, the bouquet has fineness here. Wonderful vibrations, mostly white fruit, a sensation of white peb
A vibrant, energetic core of long even fruit layered and complex, particularly for a wine at this price point. A fine fragrance, and delicate perfume entance. Sophistication tannins and playful cleansing edge and a little spice. It will certainly benefit from a day open or an early decant in its youth. Juicy, thirst-quenching and simply delicious. Plenty more to come from a very, very good wine!
Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Sept 2024
The 2022 Rully du Clos de Bellecroix Cuvée Marey comes f
Too steep for animals here and slippery too – so everything done by hand. A wide nose, half mineral and saline. Bigger – full, framed with fresh, melting acidity, insinuating delicious flavour. Very long – that’s another great 2018!
Bill Nanson
Sitting between the Vaillons and Mont de Milieu in terms of richness and minerality Delicacy, laced and fine, perfumed, elegant and long, a little primary would be interesting to see what a little time in old wood would do for this. The salinity is back in force. Tighter it will need bottle age to show it’s best. The phenolics / acid complex will take time. Everything is there waiting to come together and give a little patience you will be in a very happy place.
A slightly riper nose combines notes of just sliced pear and apple along with background nuances of floral and zest trimmed in mildly more wood influence. The rich, delicious and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors possess just a bit better depth and persistence on the firmer finale. This too is very good, indeed it could pass for a lower-level villages wine. 2027+ ♥ Outstanding Top value
Allen Meadows, Burghound (87-89) Points
Brooding with Sour Cherry and Dark Fruit. Kinda the child to Block 1 and Block 2 It's got some edgy tannin and extraction on one hand from the Pommard clone of Pinot. On the other it's got concentration and oppulence from the MV6 clone. Really want to see this wine in another 12-24 months.
More of Everything! Depth + Length + Texture = More in Your Glass! There are 8 objective criteria I use to assess wine. This wine gets a big tick for all of them! Then there is a 9th objective criteria, Style or Overall Beauty. Think you'd be hard pressed to find a wine lover that could hold their hand on their heart and say this wasn't a beautiful wine.
“parcels in Lignorelles – vines planted by grandfather – 50-60-year-old vines. 40% barrel – a mix of sizes but nothing new, indeed about 5-year-old barrels An extra width that’s filled with extra freshness – that’s a great nose. Direct, structured, still with purity and energy and faintly austere too – overtly great villages – what a wine – bravo!”
Bill Nanson
“Pale lemon, with a beautifully perfumed nose, ripe but stopping short of honeysuckle. The minerals com
Sourced from vineyards immediately next to the Gevrey-Champertin AOC
Ultra-fresh aromas of red pinot fruit, spice and more discreet earth nuances lead to equally delicious and more finely textured middleweight flavors that possess notably better volume on the better balanced and sneaky long finish. This is quite good for what it is and worth checking out.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 87 Points
The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge delivers notes of cherries, plums, smoke and loamy soil, fol
“A nose of freshness – almost cold and saline – it has my attention. Mouth-filling. Super energy to this wine – plenty of citrus bitters again that slightly modify the texture – interestingly you note the barrel more in the flavours this time than the aromas – the reverse of the last wine – but the elevage was the same. Again, a great wine but wait 2 -3 years”
Bill Nanson
“More lemon than lime, a little touch of coconut, the wine has the intensity to handle it, amazin
Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn chiefly from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru vines of Vaugiraut/Vosgros). All up, the domaine works with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, lifting the standard in general.
The 2021 Chablis was picked over various dates, dep
Drawn from three hectares on the steep slopes opposite Fourchaume, Bessin’s ‘flagship’ cuvée is blended from six parcels of the domaine’s oldest village-level vines in La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne. These vines were planted between 1950 and 1974 across Kimmeridgian marl and Portlandian soils of varying exposures. The grapes were pressed as bunches and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wine aged for 18 months in a temperature-controlled tank, with a small amount going into neutral oak. A
Bourgogne from Meursault Vineyards! Proving once again that you have to know the fruit source of any Bourgogne level wines. Javillier's are both from vineyards in Meursault. The Cuvée de Forgets from the Volnay side and the Cuvée Oligocène from the Puligny side.
This comes mainly from a well-situated 0.6-hectare parcel of 35-year-old vines planted on a northeast-facing hillside just south of Chassagne. There is also a little Chassagne village fruit in the blend. The fruit is hand-picked, pressed and left to settle. It naturally ferments on lees for 12 months in small stainless-steel vats and older barrels. The wine is then blended and settled for a further six months in tank before bottling. This has always been a lovely drink, but today, the age of vin
"The 2019 Pinot Noir combines the kind of ripeness and generosity, delicacy and finesse that characterise great Pinot Noir. Initially reserved, the nose offers notes of sun-kissed strawberry, blood plum and rose petal, together with exotic hints of musk and nutmeg. The palate has a supple richness, with a depth of flavour built on both the character of the vintage and the age of the vines. Juicy strawberry fruit, plum and rhubarb flavours are underpinned by an almost luxuriant structure that’s
Here too there is enough wood influence suffusing the aromas of mineral reduction, pretty floral wisps, spice and iodine to merit mentioning. I very much like the sophisticated texture of the acceptably concentrated middleweight flavors that deliver excellent depth and length on the firm, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. Unlike the Fourchaume which could be reasonably approached young, this more compact effort will need at least a few years of keeping first.
Burghound ♥ Sweet Spo
Very good. Savoury, earthy, dark, wonderful textural, refinement, layers of red and black fruits & a little spice. Beautifully made. Musk and woody herb / stalk. An impressive rendition particularly for this coin. Balanced by a lovely line of natural acid and excellent fine tannins with just the right amount of grip for the fruit weight. There’s a lot of pleasure to be had here and it will definitely offer more over the coming years.Jancis Robinson MW has written that the wines f
“The 2017 Saint-Véran Bois de Fée mingles notes of citrus oil, crisp green apple and Anjou pear with an elegant patina of almond paste and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with tangy acids and a long, saline finish, it has turned out very well.”
William Kelley
“An aromatic that’s reserved, still with a width of slightly golden fruit but vibrant too. Mouth-filling, mouth- watering, flavour that melts over the palate – rounder than the incisive directness of the last wine. Slowly, deliciously, fading flavour. A very different shape, almost P-F style.”
Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report
“A less evolved and backward nose offers up notes of wood, citrus zest and a mix of white and yellow peach. There is again excellent volume and richness t
“Another wine which started out in wood for 50% of the volume, which may explain the light coconut touch. Great floral points alongside, such energy of fruit, primary yellow notes, clean concentrated citrus zest, long saline finish. Another beautiful wine from this site.”
Jasper Morris 90-92 Points 5-Star Wine
Subtle fine, brooding, tightly coiled length depth fine the acid was super fine. Sophistication in the flow of the fruit really very good. Generosity of fruit yet restraint. Another excellent edition. Again, the evenness of the weight through the palate is exceptional. The textural finesse and length outstanding. Layered beautiful wine. Stunning build of flavour and intensity with chalky fine acid. Incredibly complete and harmonious. Restraint with power. Now there's a trick!
The 2023 Tapanap
That brooding depth, waiting to explode. Such incredible sophistication as usual depth and length is insane the marriage of super fine acidity with phenolics and chalkiness. A glass act, the texture and seamless harmony in both of the Tiers wines shine once again. 2024 is definitely showing more immediate generosity than previous years. So much to enjoy with plenty to offer with time in the bottle.
Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded
"A notably ripe yet still attractively fresh nose flashes a hint of exotic fruit character on the notes of white peach, poached pear and whiff of lychee. There is once again very good energy to the delicious, round and rich flavors that also deliver fine length on the clean and dry finish."Allen Meadows, Burghound
“A relatively young estate, Lavantureux is definitely a domaine to watch. Arnaud and David are now running things, with a recent 0.95ha acquisition in Vau de Vey. Farmed by hand, this is a delightful Premier Cru which emphasises the character of this steep, stony climat. Lovely density on the palate with an intriguing lime character, balanced by mineral, flinty notes and a touch of creamy oak adding more complexity. Subtle and nuanced.”
Decanter
“Very classy on the nose with dried apple and hints of pineapple and lilac. Medium-to full-bodied with a creamy and crunchy mouth feel from the ripe fruit and the bright acidity.”
James Suckling
Lovely wine, beautifully made harmonious, long fine layered, of great complexity, softer acid profile, yet plenty of acid, a textural feat! Excellent development.
Citrus and pith, with a good phenolic textural play. Nicely balanced, on a lower perceived acid bent for the region. Chalky feel. Plenty of fun. Subtle leesy funk, with great clarity.
Fauchaume has a number of Lieux Dits that you'll see on the label: Vaulorent, Fontenay, Vaupulan amongst them.
This is a delicious drink straight off the bat! 100% Chassagne fruit. This is a delicious drink straight off the bat. Approachable young and good to go over the next few years. A level of generosity and immediate appeal while showing the freshness and hinting at the complexity and precision that comes as you move through Alex's range.
Fine-boned and precise, the 2021 Bourgogne Chardonnay offers up aromas of pear, citrus oil, white flower and clear honey, followed by a medium-bodied, v
Smoky aromas of shellfish and Granny Smith apples gives way to more voluminous flavors that enjoy better acid support on the balanced and sneaky long finish. This isn't exactly classic in style but it's close and is a wine that offers fine quality for its level.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-91 Points
Give it a couple of days open or a few years in bottle and you'll go to a happy place. Reviews yet to come. Kelley's note below is of the 2020. Along with the Le Clos du Roy this represents one of the best value Burgundies on the market.
As I wrote earlier this year, Faiveley's 2019 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands is a success, delivering aromas of sweet berry fruit, plums, espresso roast and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a
Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn chiefly from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru vines of Vaugiraut/Vosgros). All up, the domaine works with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, lifting the general standard.
The fruit is pressed gently over four hours and ferme
Give it a couple of days open or a few years in bottle and you'll go to a happy place. Reviews yet to come. Kelley's note below is of the 2020. Along with the Le Clos du Roy this represents one of the best value Burgundies on the market.
As I wrote earlier this year, Faiveley's 2019 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands is a success, delivering aromas of sweet berry fruit, plums, espresso roast and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a
Here the expressive nose is spicier and a bit more floral as well with its baked plum, black cherry and soft earth scents. I very much like the texture of the medium-bodied flavors that are more precise if not quite as rich or powerful, all wrapped in a mildly sweet finish where a touch of warmth slowly emerges. While qualitatively similar, the texture of this and the Les Duresses are like night and day.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points
Wonderfully floral, the 2022 Bianco Secco entices with a spicy blend of pine resin and ground ginger, complicating hints of nectarine and dusty florals. This is energetic in style, with a solid core of minerality contrasting a mix of tropical citrus and white pit-fruits. Zesty acidity maintains a lovely freshness as the 2022 finishes crisp and clean, with a sapid, lemony concentration that calls the taster back to the glass. The Bianco Secco is a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Sauvig
Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn chiefly from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru vines of Vaugiraut/Vosgros). All up, the domaine works with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, lifting the general standard.
The fruit is pressed gently over four hours and fer
Along with the likes of Dureuil-Janthial and Jaeger-Defaix, Domaine de la Folie is showing just how much potential there is in the Côte Chalonaise. Their top white the 1er Cru 'Clos St Jacques' rests in a state of grace. A line of fine acid balances elegant, transparent fruit of great depth and length. Florals and citrus are weave into an array of complex aromas. Seamless. It's been made by a clever hand!
Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Sept 2024
The 2022 Rully Clos St. Jacques 1er Cru comes
“Aromas of pear, clear honey, fresh bread and white flowers preface the 2017 Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Longeays, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely concentrated wine that's lively and precise, concluding with a long, sapid finish. It's a superb rendition of this sprawling climat."William Kelley
Sitting between the Vaillons and Mont de Milieu in terms of richness and minerality Delicacy, laced and fine, perfumed, elegant and long, a little primary would be interesting to see what a little time in old wood would do for this. The salinity is back in force. Tighter it will need bottle age to show it’s best. The phenolics / acid complex will take time. Everything is there waiting to come together and give a little patience you will be in a very happy place.
The richest of the 1ers! Richer and more out to play there’s plenty of fruit drive here. Honeyed, a little nutty with maple at play, crème patissere. Generosity from this warmer site is tempered by a line of acid. That long ferment mid-palate with a little baking spice, pop of cracked yeast. Long.
“The 2018 Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Longeays is lovely, mingling notions of peach, pear and orange oil with scents of freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and classy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and penetrating, with racy acids and a long, saline finish, it's a terrific wine of real character. 2022 -2035”
William Kelley 93 Points, Burghound 89-91 ♥ Outstanding Top Value
Region: Burgundy
You must be logged in to post a comment.