Produttori del Barbaresco “Cru” Vintage 2013 OFFER
“THE 2013 RISERVAS ARE OFF THE CHARTS” Antonio Galloni. A rare opportunity to try the best Crus from across Barbaresco, and, explore the diversity of personalities in the wines of the region, from feminine, and, perfumed, to brooding and structured.
The wines of Produttori del Barbaresco were my first introduction to Barbaresco. The good bit was being introduced to a producer that is now a staple in my cellar. The bad bit was all of the lesser Barbaresco I tried after that. They had set the bar high!
Barbaresco is often considered the poor cousin to Barolo. That it certainly is not! The benefit for us is the marketing hype around Barolo which is often deserved and sometimes not help keep prices of Barbaresco reasonable. Produttori produces what are undoubtedly some of the best value Barbarescos available today.
Just last week we had a 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco standard next to a 1996 Vietti Riserva Villero – in today’s money $75 vs $750. The Vietti was undoubtedly the superior wine, but, gee the Produttori held it’s own for a wine of the comparative price.
Today we offer what may be Aldo Vacca’s best suite of Crus to date. There really is an incredible amount of wisdom in his winemaking.
A rare opportunity to try the best Crus from across Barbaresco, and, explore the diversity of personalities in the wines of the region, from feminine, and, perfumed, to brooding and structured.
They are all excellent wines of distinction, with a further 5 years in the bottle they will be outstanding. Most will easily last 20 years.
“THE 2013 RISERVAS ARE OFF THE CHARTS”
ANTONIO GALLONI
My 1st meeting with Aldo
Aldo Vacca has deftly brought the Produttori del Barbaresco into modern times while making subtle changes to farming and winemaking yet maintaining the traditional style that has made this coop so adored by its rabidly loyal fan base. The changes at Produttori have been gradual to the degree they aren’t always so noticeable, but they are there. No one knows every nook and cranny of Barbaresco better than Aldo Vacca, but Vacca has also proven to be incredibly wise in making choices that have positioned the Produttori for much continued success in the future. I can’t think of too many wines that deliver this much pleasure and value. Antonio Galloni
The 2013 Vintage at Produttori del Barbaresco
The 2013 growing season was cool, delayed in both budbreak and flowering, pushing the harvest into October, compared with more recent harvests in this millennium that have occurred in September. This played into the late-ripening Nebbiolo’s hand nicely, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly in the warm days and cool nights of September and early October. Picking began the Oct. 10 and finished Oct. 24.
“The good thing about this vintage is we were able to pick late, so the tannins were able to ripen fully,” explains Vacca.
The resulting wines are classically proportioned, the result of the long, slow ripening. They are aromatic, full of fruit and firmly structured, yet with the balance and tension that will allow them to age beautifully. Give them at least five years in the cellar, though the denser wines will need a few more years before really hitting their stride.
“You can feel from this vintage that these wines are going to explode at some point after five, six or seven years,” says Vacca. “The ’11s are evolving nicely, but these have the tension to really surprise.”
All the wines were bottled in June 2017, after aging three years in 25-, 35- and 50-hectoliter casks.
“The Riservas remain exceptionally well-priced for the quality and consistency they offer. It is virtually impossible to go wrong with any of the 2013 Riservas…. In other words, it doesn’t get much better than this. I was blown away by these wines.” Antonio Galloni
A bit about Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is an incredibly challenging grape variety to grow, make, and, as a consumer, sometimes, to drink and understand.
The name incorporates ‘Nebbia’ or cloud. Driving the vineyard clad hills of Barolo or Barbaresco in Piemonte (at the foot of the mountain), you’ll often find yourself immersed in clouds! A function of the topography and the region being surround by mountains on three sides.
Nebbiolo wines tend to focus more on what we call secondary characters, earthy, truffles, violets, woody herbs, tar. The texture / mouthfeel is a hallmark of Nebbiolo. They can be extremely tannic demanding rich food to balance them, and time in the bottle to soften. No matter the quantity of tannin, the best Nebbiolo wines will always have incredible quality, depth and length of tannin.
The bunches and berries are much larger than most of the French varieties. The colour of Nebbiolo wines can range from deep and dark to rusty tap water! Yet, a pale colour is often no indicator of the depth of flavour or quality of the wine.
A bit about Barbaresco
The area of Barbaresco is only 10min from Barolo, the difference in soil and weather can mean one may have a great year whilst the other is average.
Barbaresco DOCG regulations allow for wine to be released a year earlier than Barolo. Angelo Gaja, perhaps the most famed producer of Barbaresco, has largely chosen to ignore DOCG regulation in the pursuit of excellence. There is perhaps a question over whether marketing or tending of the vineyards and wines is the reason behind their cult status.
Whilst Gaja has been in the limelight wineries like Roagna and Produttori del Barbaresco have been quietly going about the business of making some of the best value Nebbiolo’s available today.
There is no doubt that the great Barbaresco’s are every bit as good as the great Barolo’s.
As a generalisation, Barbaresco tends to be less tannic and more approachable as younger wines. This has absolutely no impact on the ability of Barbaresco to age.
The Offer
We are offering a 9 bottle Collectors Case including 1 bottle of each of the Crus for $1,170.
Individual bottles of the Riservas are available for $135ea.
Magnums of Rabajà. Ovello and Montestefano are available for $285ea. Extremely limited.
Those who attended our Produttori del Barbaresco wine dinners last year will know just how delicious these wines are as they age.
These wines are on strict allocation.
We will confirm allocation and invoice you at the beginning of June for immediate shipment.
We may not be able to satisfy all requests for these wines, we’ll do our best to secure your request.
Your tongue will thank you!
About the Wines
Note: Galloni tasted the wines in October 2017 4 months after bottling O’Keefe in January 2018.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Pora, Barbaresco Riserva
Proximity to the Tanaro River creates a unique microclimate for the Pora, a beautiful hill with West and South exposures, while the northern side of the hill is an abrupt bluff that drops into the river and where the famous white truffles can be find on season. Due to the proximity to the valley floor, Pora is relatively warm in the early morning hours, but breezy with slightly higher humidity through most of the day. Soil fertility is slightly higher here and this gives to the wine a smoother character, tannins are soft and the aromas always tend to open up in the early years of life. Pora is also one of the most historical vineyards in Barbaresco, as it was part of the property of Domizio Cavazza, the father of Barbaresco, who in 1894, founded the first Cantina Sociale. Produced as a single vineyard by Produttori del Barbaresco since 1967.
Vineyard size: 10.7 ha (26.5 acres) Exposure: South West Elevation: 200 – 280 meters
Silky
The Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2013 is the most open and accessible of the range, revealing aromas of pure cherry, flowers and a hint of licorice. Elegant, silky and fresh, it's balanced and long.
94 Points
The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is soft, pliant and enveloping. In many vintages, the Pora can be a bit light. Not in 2013. The wine is rich and deeply textured, with layers of fruit that continue to build with time in the glass. The tannins are present, but they are nearly buried by the sheer intensity of the fruit. This is an especially powerful, brooding edition of the Pora. Although impressive today, the 2013 will drink well for decades to come. Drink 2020-2043
94 Points
Scents of menthol, new leather, dark culinary spice, cured meat and forest floor lead the nose. The smooth, full-bodied palate shows juicy Morello cherry, pomegranate, licorice and clove balanced by vibrant acidity and tense, refined tannins. An almost salty note closes the finish. This a classic Barbaresco with years ahead of it. Drink 2021–2038.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Pajè, Barbaresco Riserva
This vineyard is a small bowl facing South/West and it lies between the village itself and the famous Asili vineyard. However Pajè is slightly lower in altitude and the vineyard is more open to the Tanaro River influence resulting in a cooler microclimate. The soil is limestone with high calcium level. In result the wine combines elegance and complexity with intense tannins and it is never shy in acidity. The latter makes Pajè somehow sharper and brighter in its first years, with lovely youthful fruit and flowery notes, almost minty in cooler vintages. Pajè is particularly attractive after some ageing, when the wine still retains a fruitful and fresh palate. First vintage produced was 1967 as a small commemorative label for the “Cavalieri del Tartufo” association. Regular production started from the 1982 vintage.
Vineyard size: 1.8 ha (4.5 acres) Exposure: South Weast Elevation: 220 – 260 meters
Long
Paje Riserva 2013 delivers bright cherry and strawberry aromas, and though more fruity, it's tighter than the Pora, with firm tannins underneath the fruit, tense and lending a chalky feel on the very long finish.
96 Points
The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Pajé is simply fabulous. Sweet floral notes soar from the glass as this deep, beautifully resonant Barbaresco shows off its compelling inner sweetness and total sense of poise. The flavors are deep yet fresh, with wonderful fragrance and impeccable balance throughout. A wine of total harmony, the 2013 is going to be nearly impossible to resist young. The 2013 is one of the best versions of the Pajé I can remember tasting.
97 Points
Forest berry, chopped mint, clove and new leather aromas take center stage on this elegant, full-bodied red. The savory, smooth palate doles out succulent red cherry, raspberry compote and licorice while vibrant acidity and tightly knit, refined tannins provide balance and support. It has great energy and is loaded with flavor but will be even better with a few more years aging. Drink 2020–2038.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Ovello, Barbaresco Riserva
Ovello is the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco, higher in elevation and dropping down in an abrupt 90 metres from a bluff. Ovello combines the best qualities of Montefico and Montestefano. Historically, Ovello was named after a winery that used to be called ‘Aloello’. It is a relatively large area with a number of subzones with West and East exposure, all sharing a similar calcareous soils rich in clay. The higher percentage of clay and the cooler microclimate give the Ovello its exuberant and youthful quality in the fruit and its fuller body, which defines its distinctive personality. Explosive fruit on the palate and firm, sometimes rough tannins on the finish, these wines always bring a lot of joy to the palate and deliver powerful structure that needs some years of bottle ageing to balance out. Domizio Cavazza had vineyards in Ovello (and Pora) when he started producing Barbaresco in 1894. It was also among the first 5 vineyards produced as single vineyard by Produttori in 1967. Fruit from Ovello also commands the largest percentage in the Barbaresco classic wine.
Vineyard size: 20.3 ha Exposure: South West and South East Elevation: 250 – 320 metres
Perfumed Savoury
Ovello Riserva 2013 comes for the Produttori's largest holdings in all the vineyards, as well as the highest elevation and clay content. It's perfumed, in a more savory way, exhibiting density and more assertive tannins. A cooler expression, it will need more time.
96 Points
The Produttori's 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is all power, tension and nerve. Even so, the 2013 is remarkably civilized and much less austere than young Ovello Barbarescos usually are. Scents of cranberry, white pepper and mint give the wine its signature high-toned aromatics. The Ovello has a Volnay-like purity to its fruit, with Nebbiolo tannins and structure, of course. If that sounds appealing, well, it is. Vivid, sculpted and impossibly beautiful, the Ovello is simply magnificent. Drink 2023-2043
94 Points
Wild berry, camphor, moist earth and violet aromas unfold in the glass. The structured, refined palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, orange slice and white pepper alongside polished tannins and bright acidity. A soothing licorice note lingers on the finish. Drink through 2028.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Rio Sordo, Barbaresco Riserva
The vineyard is a long, South/West exposed hillside in the southern part of the Barbaresco village, not far from the river. The light limestone soil with relatively low calcium content compared to other areas of Barbaresco produces wines where tannins are never dominant, instead they show a silky quality on the palate that makes them extremely attractive and seductive, never imposing, always elegant. Behind the smooth elegance however, lies a core of powerful structure and very well balanced tannins that give to the Rio Sordo its complexity and longevity. First produced as a single vineyard by Produttori del Barbaresco in 1978.
Menthol and spicy notes introduce the Rio Sordo Riserva 2013, along with cherry fruit. It's silky, with firm tannins underneath, less weight than Ovello, but long and detailed, finishing with an abundance of sweet fruit.
93 Points
The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is one of the more gracious, approachable wines in this range. medium in body, yet deep and beautifully resonant, the 2013 has so much to offer. It should open up a bit earlier than most of the other 2013s in the range. Succulent dark cherry, plum, tobacco, mint, licorice and lavender grace the effortless finish. Drink 2020-2043
97 Points
Enticing scents of wild berry, rose, baking spice and balsamic aromas come together in the glass. Juicy and full-bodied, the flavorsome palate shows succulent Morello cherry, cranberry, licorice and ground white pepper alongside a backbone of vibrant acidity and firm, polished tannins. It's already exceptional but will benefit with more aging. Drink 2020–2038
Produttori del Barbaresco, Asili, Barbaresco Riserva
This spectacular vineyard has created in the past some of the greatest Barbaresco and it has a strong following all over the world. The main part of the Asili vineyard is a protected bowl facing South/West, next to Pora, but farther away from the river and the valley influence, with warmer and less breezy microclimate during most of the summer. To the East, Asili ends with a bricco, top of the hill, also facing South/West and with a similar soil composition, bordering Rabajà. The wine is intense, certainly not a full bodied Barbaresco, but nevertheless showing a very imposing personality. Usually quite closed in its youth it opens up slowly with impeccable complexity and style; a classic Barbaresco, and also one of the most distinctive vineyards of the region. First produced as a single vineyard in 1967.
Vineyard size: 2.28 ha Exposure: South West Elevation: 230 – 290 metres.
Expressive
Vacca describes Asili as the "quintessential Barbaresco;" the 2013 Asili Riservais harmonious, superbly balanced and expressive, featuring floral, cherry, wild herbs and sweet ripe fruit on the terrific finish.
97 Points
Absolutely stunning in every way, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is also the most complete wine in the lineup at this stage. Floral, lifted and exquisitely beautiful, the 2013 speaks to regal elegance and finesse above all else. Silky tannins add to an impression of total sensuality. At this stage, there is almost no impression of tannin, as the wine is so impeccably balanced. The 2013 shuts down quickly in the glass, which may suggest it is headed for a long period of dormancy. Readers who can find the Asili should not miss it, as it is truly sublime. Drink 2025-2043
96 Points
Fragrant and elegant, this opens with a textbook Nebbiolo bouquet showing scents of tilled soil, rose, wild red berry, Alpine herb and a whiff of new leather. The taut, vibrant palate evokes sour cherry, juicy strawberry, licorice and clove framed in refined tannins and bright acidity. It's balanced and gorgeous but still young, so give it several more years to evolve into the beauty it's destined to become. Drink 2020–2033.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Rabajà, Barbaresco Riserva 2009
Rabajà is often considered as potentially the greatest Barbaresco site of all: a long, sinuous ridge line which begins with a roasted amphitheatre above Martinenga, limestone percentages in the marly soils vary here to great effect. This is the historic part of the Rabaja’ subzone. It is south-west facing overall. Rabaja’ is one of the best-known and most celebrated vineyards in Barbaresco, so much so, that, Bruno Giacosa recently bought a parcel, release 2013 as the 1st vintage.
Rabajà produces a quintessential Barbaresco, one of the most complete and balanced of the single vineyards. The vineyard lays at the conjunction of the two main ridges that form the Barbaresco village, one starting at Rabajà and going West towards the Tanaro River (with progressively less calcium and higher fertility in the soil) and the other one that goes from Rabajà to Ovello, South to North (with higher calcium content in the soil).
The meeting of these two different soils give to Rabajà its incredible complexity. Bordering both Asili and Muncagota it combines the personality of those two great vineyards with and extra richness due to the South/West warm exposure. First produced as a single vineyard in 1971.
Vineyard size: 3.7 ha Exposure: South West Elevation: 240 – 300 metres Vineyard
Explosive
The Rabaja Riserva 2013 bursts with ripe cherry, strawberry, and tobacco flavors, very explosive, then tightens up. Tasting like two separate wines today, it will need some time to come together, but this has super length and potential.
96 Points
The 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is shockingly seamless in this tasting. Deep layers of fruit virtually bury the tannins, something that is so unusual for a young Rabajà. A host of dark blue-tone fruits, lavender, mint, violet and spice race across the palate in an utterly vivid, compelling Barbaresco of the highest level. Perhaps I caught the Rabajà on an unusually open day, but it is terrific and also quite refined for such a young wine. Drink 2023-2043
97 Points
A hallmark expression of Nebbiolo, Produttori del Barbaresco's 2013 Rabajà Riserva offers aromas of wild red berry, menthol, Alpine herb, saddle leather and dark culinary spice. The concentrated palate boasts enviable finesse and is practically weightless in the mouth, showing crushed black cherry, juicy raspberry, orange zest, clove and licorice alongside firm, velvety tannins. Bright acidity provides impeccable balance. Drink 2021–2033.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Muncagota, Barbaresco Riserva
This single vineyard looks South/East, facing the cooler morning sunshine instead of the warmer afternoon sun. Because of that, the Muncagota vineyard shows beautiful floral characteristics and often a specific mint character on the nose. Calcareous soil and a low level of sand gives to the wines of Muncagota extremely focused fruit and firm, stylish tannin. Muncagota is a perfect example of the elegant and intense qualities that make Barbaresco one of the most interesting and unique wines of the world. First produced by Produttori del Barbaresco, as Moccagatta, in 1967. Muncagota is the piedmontese dialect version of the word Moccagatta, same vineyard, different spelling.
Vineyard size: 4.5 ha (11 acres) Exposure: South East Elevation: 250 – 300 meters
Structured
The final trio is the most structured. Muncagota Riserva 2013 reveals a darker expression of cherry, wild herbs, and a more brooding nose. Rich, fuller-bodied, dense and firmly tannic, yet everything is in right proportion.
94 Points
Like most of the wines in this lineup, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is quite potent. A rush of raspberry jam, wild flowers, white pepper and mint make a strong opening statement. Succulent and yet also structured, the Muncagota has so much to offer. It should be one of the first wines in this range to start opening up, although when that will happen exactly is hard to say. Drink 2020-2043
94 Points
You'll find aromas of star anise, freshly tilled soil, chopped herb and balsamic notes on this full-bodied red. The smooth, concentrated palate delivers juicy black cherry, raspberry compost, pipe tobacco and licorice accompanied by firm, refined tannins and bright acidity.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Montefico, Barbaresco Riserva
A not widely known vineyard, yet highly sought after by the Barbaresco aficionados. It is often compared to the slightly larger and more famous Montestefano vineyard because of the similar soil (high calcium) and close proximity between the two. It lays half way between the Montestefano and the Ovello. Exposure is full South, therefore quite warm, but it is not unusual for Montefico to have brisk morning hours during the growing season because of the cooler northern wind that occasionally funnels in from the Tanaro River and into the narrow valley between the villages of Barbaresco and Neive. Austere when young and somehow less fleshy than Montestefano, it shows a beautiful mineral finish. It produces wines with the breed of any classic Barbaresco and with incredible complexity behind the tannins. First vintage released was 1970.
Vineyard size: 3.86 ha Exposure: Sud / Sud-Est Elevation: 230 – 260 metres
Powerful
The Montefico Riserva 2013 exudes black cherry, black currant, tar and tobacco on a round, dense and powerful profile.
96+ Points
The Barbaresco Riserva Montefico shows all the energy and focus that is typical of this great site, but there is so much depth to the fruit that some of the more angular contours have been softened. Bright saline-infused notes lead to wild flowers and an exotic melange of red fruits in this beautifully delineated, vivid Barbaresco. All the elements are simply in the right place. Drink 2025-2043
97 Points
Still young but already boasting extraordinary pedigree, this fantastic wine opens with hallmark scents of wild berry, new leather, chopped herb, tilled soil and a whiff of violet. The polished, full-bodied palate delivers juicy wild cherry, crushed raspberry, white pepper and licorice while youthfully assertive, noble tannins and bright acidity provide age-worthy structure. A pipe tobacco note lingers on the finish. Drink 2023–2038.
Produttori del Barbaresco, Montestefano, Barbaresco Riserva
It is one of the vineyards with higher concentration of calcium in the soil that gives to the wine a powerful tannic structure. The extra heat of the South facing slope is responsible for the Montestefano full body and almost meaty texture. It is deep flavored wines with massive tannins, but quite ripe and well integrated in the wine because of the warm exposure. In a wet season its grapes can hold rain well and it is usually the last one to be picked among the Barbaresco vineyards. For all these reason it is probably the Barbaresco that more reminds of Barolo where tar and roses prevails on the refined violet flavors. Despite this massive attitude remains a true Barbaresco, never too heavy on the palate and with a classy finish that lingers on the palate without overwhelming your senses. First produced by Produttori in 1974.
Vineyard size: 4.5 ha (11 acres) Exposure: South – South East Elevation: 230 – 280 meters
Long
Plenty of ripe cherry, plum, hints of tar and mineral announce the Montestefano Riserva 2013. This is the most full-bodied and firmly structured of the range, finishing long.
95+ Points
A dark, brooding wine, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano comes across as quite virile today, with huge tannins and equally imposing dark fruit. Smoke, leather, licorice and game add to an impression of raw, almost unrestrained, power. There is not a whole lot of finesse here at least not now. The Montestefano is a wine painted in broad brush strokes that emphasize power over elegance. Then again, that is Montestefano. Readers should be in no rush to open the 2013. Drink 2023-2043
96 Points
New leather, camphor, forest berry, dried rose and culinary spice are some of the aromas you'll find on this exceptional red. The firmly structured, poised palate doles out juicy cranberry, crushed raspberry, white pepper and star anise framed in tightly-knit, refined tannins while bright acidity provides energy and balance. Drink 2020–2033.
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