When you’re looking at wines from the great producers, like Hubert Lignier, they optimise every year. With 2015 having already proven itself to be one of the greats, 2016 has been an excellent follow-up. Lignier’s wines will be divine!
Their wines are fresh, fine and elegant Burgundies thanks to the very little intervention in the cellar.
The fun bit, is, the personality-filled wine, layered, complex, harmonious, simply put, begging you to drink it!
In the Vineyard
Father and son Hubert and Laurent Lignier manage this 9 hectares estate in Morey-Saint-Denis. They practice organic viticulture in order to create a perfect balance for the vine’s growth but have no intention of seeking certification.
The Domaine Hubert Lignier has long had a reputation for its fine wines known for their concentration, depth and structure. From ‘humble’ beginnings bottling small amounts of two different cuvées of Morey St. Denis (the village bottling and the 1er Cru “Vieilles Vignes”) as well as the fabled Clos de la Roche, Lignier now bottle an impressive range. All of the Domaine’s holdings are now bottled under their own label. Hubert’s son, Laurent, is the next generation of this proud estate and is following his father’s traditional practices to ensure the treasures coming from the family’s impressive vineyard holdings continue to exhibit the best of their respective appellations. The Domaine owns 8.30 hectares principally in the villages of Morey Saint Denis (where their home and the cellars are located), Gevrey Chambertin and Chambolle Musigny. Recently, the Ligniers have expanded their holdings to include parcels in the appellations of Nuits Saint Georges and Pommard. The Ligniers follow the principles of “lutte raisonnée” (sensible combat) in their viticulture: for example, only organic compost is used when necessary and the vineyard is tilled so that no herbicides are used. Yields vary from 20 to 55 hectoliters per hectare depending on the conditions of the growing season and the appellation. The thin, clay and limestone soil on the slopes is not conducive to vigorous growth and limits the crop naturally. A “green harvest” is used when necessary to further manage production to ensure perfect maturity. Young vines are trained using the Cordon de Royat (spur training) system, which helps control the vigor and yields as well. Of critical importance, the “sélection massale” system (i.e. replacing missing vines with cuttings from the same vineyard) is the only method used to propagate vines, a tradition that gives an extra touch of complexity and character to the resulting wines.
In the Winery
At harvest time, the pickers remove any unhealthy clusters in the field, to avoid contamination of the healthy grapes in the baskets, a practice that is supplemented with a “table de trie” at the cuverie.
Traditional vinification practices are the core of their work: grapes are destemmed and fermentation takes place in open-top cement tanks that allow manual pigéage. Only natural yeasts are used. Laurent uses an extended cold soak maceration period prior to fermentation to allow greater extraction (contrary to his father who believes that the best extraction takes place during the alcoholic fermentation). Fermentation is rather long and generally lasts 15 to 20 days following the cold soak of 5 days. The use of new oak for the élevage is carefully restrained; the norm being approximately 20% to 30% on the village wines and up to 50% for the Premier and Grand Crus. The wines of the village appellations usually spend 18 months in barrel while the Premier and Grand Crus remain in cask for 20 to 24 months before being bottled, all without fining or filtration. All work in the cellar that requires movement of the wine is done by gravity; the wines are never pumped.
Hubert Lignier’s 2016 Vintage
From Stephen Tanzer
The Ligniers picked on the late side in 2016, beginning on September 28 and finishing on October 5, and most of their cuvées¬ were between 12.8% and 13.5% in potential alcohol. “And the yeasts were very efficient in 2016,” noted winemaker Laurent Lignier, “so the wines very often gained a bit of alcohol during fermentation.” The estate lost just 25% of its normal production overall in 2016, as many of its holdings are in its home village of Morey-Saint-Denis, which mostly dodged the frost. (But Lignier was quick to note that there were some crop losses in Clos de la Roche, Monts Luisants and Les Chaffots in 2017 due to hail on July 10.)
The 2016s were still in barrels at the time of my visit, and they will remain on their lees until May, with the bottling scheduled to take place in July or August. Lignier noted that he’s been doing longer élevage in barrels in recent years, pointing out that in his cold cellar (temperatures do not exceed 58 degrees F. in summer) the wines evolve slowly. The malos took place between May and September of 2017. As to the quality and style of the ‘16s, Lignier describes the wines as “very ripe, but with more red fruits than black. The ‘16s are very precise and they respect their terroirs. In their purity and definition, they resemble the 2010s, but the ‘16s have more flesh.”
The 2015s were bottled without fining or filtration at the end of July and beginning of August of 2017, entirely by gravity and with very low levels of sulfur (about 18 ppm free and between 40 and 50 total). Lignier noted that with substantial tannins and extract, 2015 is not a fragile vintage. Plus, the wines retain high levels of CO2 in barrels because they’re not racked, and the carbonic gas can take the place of SO2 during the élevage. Lignier noted that a rainy day on August 2, followed by two more rainy spells in August, helped to refresh the vines in 2015 and start the sap flowing after a very dry July. “The wines retain freshness but they’re also very rich in ripe tannins,” he told me. He finds the wines “very agreeable to drink now,” but would not be at all surprised if they shut down in bottle. And he finds less differences of terroir in 2015 than in 2016.
Vintage at Hubert Lignier
This is a fantastic short film sharing some of the history of the Domaine and a day in the life of the Lignier’s during vintage.
Where in the World is Domaine Hubert Lignier?
Domaine Hubert Lignier is based in the Côtes-de-Nuits north of Beaune in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis with wines made from Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. In addition, they source fruit from Fixin, a small parcel in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Saint Romain. Recently the Domaine has commenced sourcing fruit from Pommard to the South in the Côtes-du-Beaune. Their prize holdings are of the Grand Cru’s Clos de la Roche, Griotte-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin alongside a suite of excellent well positioned Premier Cru’s.
Click on any of the maps below to enlarge.
*Stocks of the Grand Crus and Premier Crus are extremely limited. First come, first served. Wines are available for immediate delivery.
About the Wines
2017 Hubert Lignier Bourgogne Rouge
As you would expect from the Ligniers this is better than your average Bourgogne Rouge, its depth and complexity rival wines from more elite appellations. The vineyard in Morey is 1.5 hectares in size and the vines are 38 years of age. The Ligniers handle this wine in the same manner as the village wines of the domaine except for a briefer elevage.
2016 Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin
Vines planted between 1950 and 2002
Purchase of grapes from the “Reniard” and “Epointures” climats. The wines are vinified separately then blended for ageing and the result is a pleasant, deliciously fruity wine. Generous when young, they also have good cellar-ageing potential.
Appelation : Gervey-Chambertin
Variety : Pinot Noir
2016 Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis
Vines planted in the 1970’s and 1980’s
Produced partially from the domaine’s grapes (Chenevery) and partially from purchased grapes (Chenevery, Crais Gillon, Chorvées Gillon). The soils are deeper and composed of clay. They create complete, well-structured wines, which are smooth on the palate. The aromas often include notes of violets and blackcurrants.
Appelation : Morey-Saint-Denis
Variety : Pinot Noir
2016 Domaine Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin 'La Justice'
Vines planted in 1987 on an area of 25 ares
Purchase of grapes from this vineyard, planted over a gravel pit with good draining soil, since 2009. When the summer is hot and dry, the vine suffers from lack of water supply. The wines are characterized by their elegance, delicacy and the softness of their tannins.
Appelation : Gevrey-Chambertin
Climat : La Justice
Variety : Pinot Noir
Laurent Lignier said suffered from some hydric stress in 2016; this was the only wine he chaptalized in '16, from 12.3% to 12.8%. Bright, moderately saturated red. Cherry and raspberry aromas are complicated by herbs, smoke, licorice and soil tones. Offers good texture and a touch of sweetness but less flavor depth than the Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières. In a rather soft style, conveying an impression of lowish acidity and finishing with a salty element.
2016 Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vielles Vignes
Surface area: 53 ares.
This parcel is located east of Clos de la Roche. In two vineyard areas (“lieux dits”):
• Faconnières 33 ares, planted in 1947 and 1960
• Chenevery 20 ares, planted in 1936, 1942 and 1943
Soil similar to that of Clos de la Roche, with the same dalle nacrée and a very thin soil.
The wines are just as dense and have a nice complexity of aromas and flavours. Notes of sweet spices, with softness and very ripe fruit as the small clusters of grapes are affected by millerandage (very small grapes of varying sizes).
Appelation : Morey-Saint-Denis
Climat : Vieilles Vignes
Variety : Pinot Noir
These old vines in Clos des Ormes, Les Faconnières and Les Millandes are situated about 80 meters lower than Les Chaffots. Bright red-ruby. Very ripe, soil-driven aromas of black raspberry, cherry, bitter chocolate and licorice. At once thick and juicy, showing terrific inner-mouth lift to its flavors of dark fruits, licorice and spices. Quite sharply delineated for such a big wine. Finishes classy and very long. A superb showing for this consistently topnotch cuvée.
2016 Hubert Lignier Chambolle-Musigny Vielles Vignes
Vines over 50 years of age
Purchase of grapes from 2 parcels: From two vineyards beneath Sentiers 1er Cru. Gamaires and Drazey, covering 30 ares and producing 5 barrels (228 l) per year on average. Growing on silty clay soils, this Chambolle is finer than “Les Bussières”, very aromatic and can be appreciated from its youth.
Appelation : Chambolle-Musigny
Climat : Vieille Vignes
Variety : Pinot Noir
The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes comes from purchased grapes sourced from two lieux-dits: Drazy and Grammaire. It is 100% destemmed with 20% new oak. It has a seductive nose of baked black cherries, vanilla pod and hints of blue fruit that blossom immediately in the glass. The palate is well balanced with succulent ripe red cherry and cranberry fruit, a pleasant chalky texture toward the latter half with a mineral-intense finish. Excellent. (NM)
I did not note how badly frost damages the vines were here, but less than in the la Bussière I seem to recall. The 2016 Chambolle V.V. is an excellent wine in this vintage, offering up a refined and youthful bouquet of black cherries, plums, chalky soil tones, gamebird and a nice, smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully sappy at the core, with good acids, moderate tannins and a long, nascently complex and very well-balanced finish. Charm personified! 2021-2060.
Medium red. High-pitched aromas of cranberry, pomegranate and flowers. A distinctly lean, salty wine dominated by tart red berries. Tightly wound, dry and classic, finishing with a touch of mineral austerity. (ST)
2016 Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru 'Blanchards'
Lies just below the Grand Cru of Clos des Lambrays and the village. This is the smallest 1er Cru in Morey and is dead centre of the appellation and so is a perfect example.
A neighbour of Clos Baulet, this clay terroir at the bottom of a slope gives us more dense, tannic wines. Sometimes austere in its youth, it gradually takes on a fruity character accompanied by smoky or spicy notes.
Appelation : Morey-Saint-Denis
Climat : Les Blanchards
Variety : Pinot Noir
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Blanchards was completely destemmed and matured in 342-liter barrels. It has a very composed bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cranberry leaf and tobacco aromas all neatly intertwined. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe redcurrant and cranberry fruit on the entry, quite saline in the mouth that really get that saliva flowing toward the finish. Give this 3 or 4 years in bottle. At the moment it is not quite as expressive as Cyprien Arlaud's Les Blanchards, although it is not far off. (NM)
Healthy bright red. Ripe aromas of dark raspberry and brown spices. In a rather fat, full style, with its volume reflecting the clay soil. An attractive plump wine but less aromatic and shapely than the Baudes. Finishes with a broad dusting of tannins.
2016 Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru 'Chaffots'
Surface area: 45 ares, from vines planted in 1968.
Located just above the Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru, at 330 metres altitude, on a hillside with a east-southeast incline. The vineyards receive an exceptional amount of sunlight as well as freshness due to the altitude and the nearby valley.
The wine is among the strongest-coloured of the domaine’s wines and nicely balanced with a pure, taut character and mature tannins. Excellent cellar-ageing potential.
Appelation : Morey-Saint-Denis
Climat : Les Chaffots
Variety : Pinot Noir
25% vendange entier; this south-facing vineyard is located above Clos Saint-Denis, at an altitude of about 330 meters. Bright dark red. Highly perfumed aromas of dark raspberry, violet and rose petal. Riper than La Riotte but wonderfully juicy, intense and light on its feet, offering complex flavors of black raspberry, spices, flowers and soil. This classically dry, dense, savory wine boasts terrific inner-mouth tension. Finishes vibrant, aromatic and long. Laurent Lignier noted that this fruit is virtually always picked at a minimum of 13% potential alcohol yet maintains freshness even in hot years.
2016 Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 'Aux Combottes'
This vineyard is right on the Gevrey/Morey border and is surrounded by the Grand Crus of Latricières Chambertin to the north, Charmes Chambertin to the east and Clos de La Roche on it’s southern and western sides!
Area: 15 ares; vines planted in 1957.
This 3-hectare terroir is surrounded by 3 Grands Crus: Latricières Chambertin to the north, Charmes Chambertin to the east and Clos de la Roche on its southern and western sides. The soil, lying on a gentle slope, is composed of sand, clay and silt.
The wines are concentrated and elegant, deep and complex. This vineyard produces wines that are a little closed when young, but with age blossom.
Appelation : Gevrey-Chambertin
Climat : Aux Combottes
Variety : Pinot Noir
25% vendange entier; this parcel is located next to Lignier's Clos de la Roche but the soil is more sandy and less rocky. Good dark red. Complex aromas of cherry, raspberry, menthol and licorice complicated by a suggestion of saline minerality. Dense, deep, sappy wine with lovely finesse of texture but also an impression of power to its flavors of plum, cherry and salty minerals. This is balanced from the start but has the stuffing to age slowly. (Incidentally, there's no more Gevrey-Chambertin La Perrière, as the vineyard owner sold these vines after a ten-year fermage arrangement with the Ligniers expired.)
2016 Hubert Lignier Grand Cru 'Charmes Chambertin'
Surface area: 10 ares in the Mazoyères Haut vineyard area, planted in 1948.
Soil deeper than in Clos de la Roche and composed of clay-limestone and sand.
The vineyards are located next to Les Combottes, to the south of Charmes Chambertin.
The wines are characterized by floral scents, they are often elegant and delicate yet also possess the power and length on the palate worthy of a rather charming Grand Cru.
Appelation : Charmes-Chambertin
Variety : Pinot Noir
From millerandé 70-year-old vines in Mazoyères; vinified with 20% whole clusters. Good dark red. Dark cherry and spices on the nose, lifted by a violet high note. Very rich, savory, generous wine with dark fruit and saline mineral notes. More masculine and structured than the Griottes, as well as more concentrated. But in a somewhat tougher style, with its tannins accentuated by a peppery quality. Incidentally, the Ligniers lost 25 of their plants in this vineyard in April of 2017 when a car crashed into their parcel.
2016 Hubert Lignier Grand Cru 'Clos de la Roche'
Surface area: 90 ares over two parcels:
• Monts Luisants: 62 ares; planted between 1955 and 1965 on hillsides with a 25% gradient.
• Fremières: 28 ares; planted between 1953 and 1960
Thin soil composed of white limestone, clay and marl over compact rock known as “dalle nacrée” (pearly flagstone) from the Middle Jurassic.
The wines are always well-coloured, aromatic, dense and complex due to various mineral compounds. The wines are powerful due to their intensity on the palate, but their tannins are concentrated, fine and silky. This is a charismatic wine of great class! Built for very long ageing.
Appelation : Clos de la Roche
Variety : Pinot Noir
The 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is matured in 30% new oak with up to 30% whole cluster fruit, two-thirds from Montluisants and one-third Fremiers. It has an intoxicating bouquet that is extraordinarily complex: shimmering red berry fruit, blood orange, incense and a touch of crushed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, wonderful depth and harmony, laser-like focus toward the finish that lingers in the mouth. Stunning mineralité here—the tongue feels as if it licked limestone 30 second after the wine has disappeared. If there is a better Clos de la Roche then I have not tasted it (yet).
The 2016 Clos de la Roche from Laurent Lignier is an absolute classic in the making. The nose delivers a refined and nascently complex constellation of black plums, sweet dark berries, a touch of lavender, gamebird, a very complex base of soil, violets and nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with a sappy core, ripe tannins, fine backend mineral drive and a very long, complex and utterly complete finish. A brilliant example of Clos de la Roche! 2030-2090.
Good dark red. Lovely aromatic nose combines purple and red fruits, licorice, violet and spices. Wonderfully silky on entry, then broad and intense in the middle palate, offering superb depth and juicy minerality to its purple fruit and spice flavors. The Ligniers had a good yield here and this wine shows no sense of stress (by comparison, the 2015 bottling is more reserved). Finishes very long, spicy and light on its feet, with terrific palate-saturating breadth and very refined tannins.
A whiff of volatile acidity does not really materially diminish the appeal of the earthy and markedly sauvage-inflected aromas of both red and dark pinot fruit that display a top note of various floral elements. There is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the broad-shouldered flavors that deliver fine length despite the same slightly drying finish. Once again my projected range offers the benefit of the doubt that the dryness will eventually round out with some time in bottle.
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