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Today we offer David Duband’s 2018 Burgundies.

Pre-Paid pricing provided with the offer. The wine is due in September.

*Orders must be paid for in full by 10 August to receive pre-paid pricing.


The 2018 vintage in Burgundy was highlighted by three months of gloriously warm and dry weather through July, August and September. That meant zero disease pressure in the vineyard and has resulted in a range of wines that at the top end rival some of the very best vintages. 2018 has even been compared to legendary years like 1947, 1959, 1990 and 1999. For a reference to more contemporary vintages though, Burghound’s Allen Meadows ventured, ‘a blend of 2016 and 2015 with the ripeness and richness of the former and the density of the latter.’


Despite its age, and, strictly classified vineyards, Burgundy has been evolving in quite a dynamic way. Vineyards have cycled through replanting as vines have reached the end of their productive life, shifts to more biological practices, away from chemical use have been rapid, fruits sorting and handling techniques have been refined, sorting tables are now widespread across the Côte. Like everywhere wine growing region of the world climate change has been a point of constant discussion.

We have also seen generational shifts, and, access to the world stimulate experimentation. A couple of generations ago Burgundian winemakers rarely traveled. Now, young makers from around the world share their experiences, travel to the opposite hemisphere for experience in the ‘New World’ and ‘Old World’ respectively.

David Duband starting with his family Domaine now has more than 20 vintages under his belt. From my research, what most intrigues me is his shift to whole bunch and whole berry fermentation in around 2008. Unfortunately, I haven’t seen the wines from before this shift, only the wines from after.

Getting my head around a producer from Burgundy I haven’t seen before is always a challenge. You need to try the breadth of wines and the right quality level to see just what they can do!

Before putting this offer out I wanted to make sure I had a grasp of Dubands wines and ordered three Premier Cru’s form 2017 to explore. The Morey-Saint-Denis ‘Clos Sorbè’, Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Sentiers’, and, Nuits-Saint-Greorges ‘Les Procès’.

Tasting young Burgundy is a very different experience to drinking Burgundy in the zone. You need experience to understand where they are going to go. Duband’s 17’s showed the traits of young whole bunch Burgundy, that slight angularity, the dominance of whole bunch characters on the nose. Every time I see it, I think of a session in the cellars at Dujac, another whole bunch advocate, and, inspiration to Duband’s use of the technique. Dujac’s young wines had the same traits. Once you got to something c. 7 years old the site expression really started to shine through and the individual personalities became evident.

One of the most common questions I have from new Burgundy drinkers is ‘What’s all the fuss about?’ I typically respond with the question ‘Have you drunk any aged Burgundy?’ The answer is invariably ‘No’. Although many wines from Burgundy are more approachable young, it’s still only with age that they reveal their true potential.

Segway over. Back to Duband’s 2017’s. The freshness, and, energy of the wines was immediately obvious, Duband it turns out, is one of the earliest to pick. What shone through under the mask of youth was the clear expression of village and vineyard. The Morey looked like Morey should, red fruits fanning out through your palate, with comparatively plush tannins, the Chambolle having the line and length, the perfume and refinement, the Nuits having the earthy savoury slightly darker nature and luscious fruit to it.

On both the technical and personality side they are very well made with excellent attention to detail. I expect the wines to age very well, particularly with all wines bottled under DIAM.

Looking forward to trying some 2018’s when they hit the tasting bench!

About David Duband

Regarded as one of the rising stars of Burgundy, David Duband took over his family Domaine at a very young age and now has more than 20 vintages of experience behind him. Starting with very small family holdings David, together with his business partner Francois Feuillet, have added to his portfolio of wines through the purchase of some exceptional old Grand cru vineyards throughout Gevrey Chambertin and Morey St Denis.

In recent years David has adapted his work in both the vineyards and cellars and in the last few years is producing wines with not only remarkable finesse and detail but also exhilarating intensity and freshness. Working organically in the vineyards and with low levels of S02 in the cellar he also uses a relatively high percentage of whole bunch ferment and a low percentage of new oak for ageing and this is adapted to each wine as it needs. This results in wines of striking purity with fabulous depth and intensity without sacrificing the details of the origins of each parcel of grapes. These are wines showing terroir and the soil signature of the fruit for each parcel above all else. These are wines that are built to age classically and gracefully.

The 2018 Vintage David Duband

‘David Duband, who exploits, among other vines, the former Jacky Truchot parcels, as well as consults for the Louis Max wines, succinctly told me that 2018 is a “vintage that I’m actually very happy with as far as the results are concerned. There were a few ups and downs during the growing season with some mildew in the early going, and then spots of hail in Nuits during July but otherwise the season was fairly calm if very hot and dry. I started picking on the 3rd of September and brought in very generous yields, at least for us, which is to say between 38 and 48 hl/ha. Potential alcohols were really very reasonable given how hot it was, ranging from 12.5 to 13.3%. I used from 60 to 95% whole clusters and basically had no real problems with the vinifications though I did monitor them very carefully. As the style of the wines, they’re not nearly as marked by the high heat of the vintage as I thought that they might be and they also express their respective terroirs very well. I like them.’ Burghound.com January 2020.

Viticulture

On trend, David has shifted all of his vineyards to organic viticulture with the usual justification for the approach.

Winemaking

After the vineyard, how the fruit is processed when it arrives at the winery, and, handled during fermentation is the key to achieving the desired expression of site, and, style. Modern technology, like the destemming and sorting machine explored in this Wine Bites Magazine article, has made it possible for winemakers to choose a full spectrum of fruit processing options. From thrashing the grapes off the stems, to gentle removal of whole berries, and, the lowest tech option of all, using whole bunches. The video below explores David’s shift to majority whole bunch ferments for his Pinots. Inspired by the wines of Dujac, DRC and other whole bunch afficiandos, the rational being, that the technique offer wines of sophistication, restraint, with the kind of personality in the wines that can make your heart race!

The three images below show different elements of Pinot fermentation. The first shows skins being emptied from a concrete fermenter. You can see there are no stalks in the mix, so no whole bunches. This fermenter is actually a sarcophagus. The horizontal rips on the side used to help separate coffins. The opening at the top having a support for a lid to sit flush. The second image shows a ferment with a high percentage of whole bunches. You can see the bunch stalks spread through out the skins. The stick in the ferment would have a small cricular head on it used to plunge the skins into the fermenting wine below. The third picture shows a whole bunch that looks to be from a fermentation that is complete. Notice the whole berries still attached to the bunch stalk. When you eat this the pop in your mouth and fizz as you suck out the wine!

Where in the World is David Duband?

David Duband is based in Chevanne, 15mins to the west of Nuits-Saint-Georges. He works with significant holding in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, and, with his business partner, François Feuillet, has progressively spread his wings with the acquisition of Jacky Tuchot’s vineyards including old vine parcels of Clos de la Roche in Morey-Saint-Denis and Charmes in Gevrey-Chambertin amongst others. A quick search for Truchot’s will reveal the stratospheric prices they command and the potential of these vineayrds for Duband. Today, Duband has holdings across the Côtes de Nuits with additional parcels in Chambolle-Musigny, and, Vosne-Romanee.

Click to enlarge 🔎

David Duband's 2018 Burgundy Offer

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About the Wines

2018 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Louis-Auguste

86-89 Points

‘A bright and high-toned nose speaks primarily of cool red berries and soft earth nuances, the latter of which can also be found on the racy, intense and beautifully delineated flavors that exude a refreshing salinity on the dusty and focused finale that offers fine depth for its level. Drink 2022+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin

87-90 Points

‘(~80% of the blend comes from Brochon vineyards). A notably fresher nose combines notes of attractively layered red and dark currant with those of floral, newly turned earth and soft spice hints. There is once again solid energy and volume to the medium weight flavors that also conclude in a dusty and compact finish. Like the Chambolle, here too there is a hint of dryness but there is a good chance it will eventually dissipate. Drink 2026+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges

89-92 Points

‘(from La Charmotte, Aux Saints-Juliens and Les Plateaux). A pungent nose is comprised at present by notes of reduction and wood toast. Otherwise there is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the powerful and muscular medium-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding depth and persistence on the robust and rustic finale. This outstanding if quite serious villages level wine is very Nuits in basic character. Drink 2028+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbé

89-92 Points

‘A fresh, cool and more elegant array is comprised by notes of both red and dark pinot fruit along with background floral and earth suggestions. The succulent, round and delicious middle weight flavors are finer if less powerful, all wrapped in a lingering finish that progressively tightens up as it sits on the palate to the point that it becomes quite compact. This will definitely need a few years to unwind. Drink 2028+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey

90-93 Points

‘An exuberantly floral-inflected nose reveals notes of spice, red currant, earth and a whiff of herbal tea. There is terrific punch and delineation to the sleek, intense and stony medium weight flavors that display excellent persistent on the long, serious and well-balanced finale. One to check out. Drink 2030+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Procès

90-92 Points

‘Aromatically this too is markedly floral in character with its discreetly spiced nose of high-toned red currant, pomegranate and soft earth influence. There is both good vibrancy and detail to the round and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that possess fine length on the balanced finish if not quite the same lovely complexity. This mildly austere effort should age well over the medium to even longer-term. Drink 2030+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers

89-92 Points

‘An admirably discreet application of wood sets off pretty and airy aromas of rose petal violet and lavender that add a touch of elegance to the ripe mix of spicy red and blue pinot fruit. The broad-shouldered, intense and powerful medium weight flavors exude mineral hints on the mocha-inflected finish that offer very good complexity. There is touch of dryness but it doesn’t seem to affect the length as there is fine persistence. Drink 2028+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru

91-94 Points

‘(from Les Rouges du Bas). Here the expressive and clearly ripe nose is compositionally similar to that of the Sentiers except that it’s even spicier and a bit more exotic as well. The sleek and intense larger-scaled flavors possess a sophisticated texture while displaying focused power that carries over to the dusty, palate coating and impressively complex and lengthy finish. This is very good and the abundant sap should permit it to be approached after 7 to 8 years. Drink 2033+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

92-94 Points

‘(from a .30 ha parcel). A ripe yet cool nose reflects elegant and airy aromas that include an abundance of floral elements as well as various nuances that derive mostly from the red side of the fruit spectrum. There is fine volume to the round but racy middle weight flavors that possess outstanding delineation on the stony, highly complex and persistent finish. As is always the case with the best examples of the appellation, the firm supporting tannins are relatively fine grained and overall, this is a grand cru of power and finesse. Drink 2035+.’

Burghound.com January 2020

2018 Chambertin Grand Cru

92-94 Points

‘(from a .22 ha parcel). A gentle touch of wood easily allows the very fresh and beautifully layered aromas of dark cherry, violet, humus, underbrush, rose petal and a whiff of the sauvage to be appreciated. The imposingly-scaled flavors also possess a highly sophisticated texture with plenty of sappy dry extract that mostly buffers the very firm tannic spine on the dusty, youthfully austere and strikingly long finish. This is unapologetically built-to-age and a wine that’s going to require at least a decade before it’s approachable. In sum, this is one to buy and forget for a decade. Drink 2036+.’

Burghound.com January 2020