Roccolo Grassi Amarone della Valpolicella 2017

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

The Evolution & Styles of Valpolicella

There are 3 red wine types in the region: Valpolicella DOC including the higher quality Valpolicella Superiore, Valpolicella Ripasso DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, and a 4th sweet wine type, Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG.

There is movement at the station, Valpolicella is confusing, Amarone too. How the hell do I explain the history of these wines and they styles!

Well, let’s take it back to basics! One simple question …

Is what’s in the glass a bloody good drink that I’d happily hoover a half bottle with along side a tasty meal?

The answer is … Yes!

The best Valpolicella’s wines are less sweet, looking for dry, savoury, mineral expressions, reigning in the alcohol levels.

Roccolo Grassi’s Valpolicella is a stunning example of this.

Equally the number of wines now being made outside the boundaries of the DOCG limitations and being classified as IGT wines is a clear indication of the intent of the region to continue evolving.

The IGT classification is often being used with local varieties moving outside permissible percentages per variety rather than the incorporation of imported varieties.

In addition, with a quality focus in mind, we are seeing single vineyard wines appear.

As is the Italian way, consensus on how to best use the IGT classification will probably take 50-1,000 years, and, some will abuse it.

To this I say: Know your maker & play what’s in the glass!

Eric Guido has a fantastic piece ‘On the Cusp of Evolution: Amarone and Valpolicella’  on Vinous exploring all of this and more.

About Roccolo Grassi

Established in 1996 by their father Bruno, and named after their prized vineyard called Roccolo Grassi, brother and sister team Marco and Francesca head up this gem of Veronese, and Italian wine.

The big news at Roccolo Grassi is the release of a new Cru Valpolicella Superiore from Marco Sartori’s Valfresca vineyard. The timing couldn’t be better, as the importance of the Valpolicella Superiore category continues to increase throughout the region. What’s more, while the Roccolo Grassi Amarone is typically one of the top wines of each vintage, what this house truly excels at is their Valpolicella. The best part is that the terroir of the vineyard, at a higher elevation and with calcareous soils, versus the volcanic soils of the Roccolo Grassi vineyard, sets the Valfresca drastically apart. Marco Sartori admits that the Valfresca is a work in progress; yet still, the 2015 makes for a very exciting introduction for this new wine and showcases the house style which depends less on appassimento to create wines of amazing elegance and purity of fruit. Having said all of that, the new releases from this address are not to be missed.

Eric Guido

The film below is in Italian, well worth a watch even if you have a tiny bit of Italian.

In the Vineyard

Our efforts are concentrated in our 15 hectares of vineyards, in “Val di Mezzane”, at an altitude between 200 and 300 m.,  we try to support nature by respecting its times, the vines and their ability to express themselves. We prune the vines with attention to every single plant, we try to contain grape yields and reach perfect ripeness; this by practicing viticulture that is attentive to the environment and the territory. The company, in addition to the vineyard, includes 2 hectares of woods, 1.5 of olive groves and various fruit trees, this creates a unique ecosystem to produce healthy and high quality grapes.

In the Winery

We place the utmost care in preserving our harvest through winemaking practices which respect and preserve the grapes. Cleanness and meticulous care is guaranteed at each stage of the work process, as well is the choice of woods, and wine testing. In fact, it is the wine itself to determine the next step to be taken. The cellar is a passageway where grapes become wine in an amazing journey where their life encounters ours.

VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE

This is the flagship wine of Roccolo Grassi, made mostly from Corvina (65%) with 15% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella and 10% mixed of Croatina and Oseleta. The vineyard is 12 hectares, divided into eight for Valpolicella and four for Amarone, planted on volcanic/basalt soils. Marco uses a combination of fresh and slightly dried grapes for his Valpolicella. About 40% off the grapes are dried. The slight dehydration of the grapes lasts 20 days (percentage amount of grapes and number of days may vary depending on the vintage) in order to alter the peel/pulp ratio and therefore obtain a fresh fruit with a slightly higher concentration and rich with the noble components of the peel. The two parts are aged in barriques and botti for 20 months before being assembled and aged a further 18 in the bottle. Rich with red fruits, spice, coffee and chocolate, the palate is silky with beautiful texture and balance and it has the complexity and structure to age for 10-15 years.

A section of the vineyard is designated exclusively to growing grapes for Valpollicella Superiore. Grapes for Amarone are not selected from this area.

AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA

From a four hectare parcel of the oldest vines (55 years) and all grown Pergola Veronese, this is 60% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella and 5% Croatina. The grapes are dried until the first week of December and then pressed into stainless for thirty days maceration. The wine is aged 60% in barriques (max. 20% new) and 40% in botti for 24 months followed by another 24 in the bottle. This is rich and concentrated but guided by the house style that favours complexity and balance over power.

Roccolo Grassi Amarone is a wine of great structure and softness. Its aim is to feature great balance, finesse and complexity. Here tannins are very sweet but appreciable with good length and depth.

The 2017 Vintage at Roccolo Grassi

From Eric Guido, Vinous:

Once again, I’m thoroughly impressed by the Roccolo Grassi Valpolicella Superiore. It’s pretty amazing that Marco Sartori can achieve a balance of depth and intensity that few producers can replicate. The Valpolicella is made using 30% appassimento grapes dried for twenty days. It’s refined in a 50%-50% mix of large oak cask and barrique, of which only about 20% are new. When placed next to an Amarone (because it’s hard to compare this to other Valpolicella), it shows more energy and minerality, yet with a similar amount of power. As for the vintage, 2017 plays well with the Grassi style, yet make sure to open these wines well before tasting. Unfortunately, there wasn’t a new vintage ready from the new Valfresca vineyard; however, I did taste the 2015 again, and is coming along beautifully.

Where in the World is Roccolo Grassi?

Roccolo Grasi is located in Veneto in Valpolicella.