Luciano Sandrone Barolo ‘Vite Talin’ 2016

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Barbara Sandrone Shares the Story of ‘Vite Talin’

Just when we thought Luciano Sandrone, a Barolo icon of over 50 vintages (with 40+ under the Sandrone label) might be ready to kick back and put his feet up, he has astounded us—and the rest of the wine world—with the release of a new wine that has the potential to redefine his eponymous Estate. Of course we are talking about the Vite Talin, a wine that may have created a world first by getting two 100-point reviews from key critics on its first release.

So what’s the story? Well, it turns out to be a long one—beginning in 1987 when Luciano noticed one vine in a rented plot of his in Le Coste, Barolo, which was behaving in a very surprising manner. This vine was producing much smaller bunches and berries than the plants around it, and was also growing leaves with a different morphology. You can see the leaf shape comparison in the image above. Growers have long associated smaller bunches and berries than the plants around it and was also growing leaves with a different morphology. You can see the leaf shape comparison in the image above (the top three leaves are from the Vite Talin vines). Growers have long associated smaller berries and bunches with higher quality (remember that Nebbiolo normally has the opposite problem) and so Luciano was very interested in what he had stumbled upon.

He first took cuttings and planted the vine in several different spots to see if it behaved the same way. It did, and so in 1991, Luciano and his brother (vineyard manager Luca Sandrone) began planting out cuttings from these vines in two Crus: Drucà and Rivassi. Later, Sandrone also acquired the original parcel of le Coste and also planted it out with Vite Talin—so there are three sites today.

At the time it was too difficult and expensive to have the vines DNA analysed. Luciano acted purely on instinct and experience, much in the same way that growers have acted for thousands of years: making selections based on observation. This meant that he could not even be sure that the vine was actually Nebbiolo, so any wine had to be declassified until 2017, when the vines were finally able to be verified by DNA testing. The results not only confirmed the vine to be Nebbiolo, but a new, mutated strain that had never been identified before. The Sandrone family have named this strain of Nebbiolo Vite Talin – “the vine of Talin” (Talin being the name of the grower who originally owned the vine). Today there are 8,000 vines in production, only leading to around 2,000 bottles of wine.

Talin is the name of the grower in whose le Coste vineyard this cultivar was found, not the name of a parcel (in fact the wine comes from three parcels). Vite Talin, literally ‘the vine of Talin’ is the name of the wine, and the name of the strain of Nebbiolo it has gifted us.

All this aside, this is an incredible wine, made from a specific cultivar of Nebbiolo grown in three plots: le Coste, Drucà and Rivassi. The vines in the latter two Crus are 30 years old, while le Coste has been more recently planted. Only 2,000 bottles are produced for the world, and Australia has secured 60 of these. An absolutely unique Sandrone Barolo that reminds us of some of the region’s greatest classical producers. Get ready!

The Winemaking

Barolo DOCG
Nebbiolo 100%
Complete destemming
Warm pre-fermentation maceration under anaerobic conditions
Indigenous yeasts only
Fermentation in 50 hl upright wooden cask
20-35 days of total maceration, depending on the vintage’s specifics, with use of submerged cap when merited
After the maceration, the first racking is to separate the wine from the grape solids. The wine is racked to steel for 1 week for the rough less to settle out
Then, the wine is racked to French oak tonneaux – 500 l – for malolactic fermentation and 2 years of ageing
Over 50% of the tonneaux are new, as the wine’s tannin structure requires more new wood
Racked to large oval casks of French Oak for 1 year of further refinement
Bottled after 3 years total in wood
Held in bottle for 3 additional years before release

About Sandrone

When you hear of Luciano’s history in the industry the quality of his wines makes sense. Where many Barolista have been born into the industry Luciano’s family were carpenters, making furniture and repairing barrels.

He saw something else in his future, wine! With stints at Giacomo Borgogno, Marchesi di Barolo producing over 1 million bottles a year amongst others. He found himself gathering a breadth of experience, and, importantly the respect of many vineyard owners, who would later offer their lands to him.

Starting with limited vineyard experience, Luciano, released his first wine from the 1978 vintage and has since gradually accumulated land holdings across virtually all of the communes in Barolo, and, the Valmaggiore vineyard in the Roero.

In the early eighties together with the likes of Domenico Clerico, Roberto Voerzio, Enrico Scavino the Picoli Produttori was formed. In a way a new generation bucking the traditional wines of Barolo.

Reflecting on this I see great similarities to part of Burgundy where young winemakers have taken the reigns and without a doubt the ‘New World’. Why? A fascination with experimentation, using technology, new oak, lead to a dramatic change in the wines being produced.

In Australia, with no restrictions, we saw attempts to wedge 200% new oak into wines, push alcohols to new highs, whilst making wines so technically correct they were often devoid of personality.

Similarly, in Barolo, new oak barriques, stainless steel fermenters of all shapes and sizes, and, technologies that had not been used before were all introduced.

From a winemaking perspective, experimenting with these often requires going all in! Once a wine is in a new barrel it’s in! When you spend $100’s of thousands if not millions on equipment, you have to use it. You get to experiment once a year, then the full results of your experiment will only be know 10-15 years later after the wine has been bottled and allowed to age to a reasonable maturity.

Just like we are seeing balanced, fresh vibrant Chardonnay in Australia today after years of ‘Dolly Parton’ wines. The new wave of Barolista have over the years continued to refine their wines. Perhaps, their advantage, being an established base of old vines to work with. Giving them the depth of fruit and sophistication of tannin only possible from an old vine.

Today, most are reducing the amount of new oak they are using and bring back the large 1,100 to 5,500 litre Oak  Botti of the past which help the wines remain fresher whilst ageing and impart little oak character.

The earlier wines I tasted from many of these producers were out of balance. Perhaps the turning point came in the early 2000’s with many well on the way to making wines that are now much more an expression of their fruit than an oak tree!

Bartolo Mascarello would indeed be happy to see this!

Sandrone’s Vineyards

Located in Barolo, in the heart of the Langa area, Sandrone plantings are spread across three communes in Barolo with Cannubi Boschis and Vignane in Barolo, Merli in Novello, Villero in Castiglione Falletto and Baudana in Serralunga d’Alba. The slopes are hostile, the soil is rich in structure but poor in substance and the sun is slower to set.

Beyond Barolo Sandrone has an outpost in the Roero Hills, approximately twenty kilometers from Barolo. At the beginning of the 90s, they discovered a beautiful steep terrain in Roero, with a softer structure; a cradle for the vine, a natural amphitheater so steep that the sun is able to warm it up also in winter, when it rotates lower on the horizon. This is Valmaggiore, where they have planted our Nebbiolo vines following the lineaments of the soil, respecting the orientation of the hill, looking for the perfect harmony with the territory.

What immediately struck me for a vineyard of this size, a permanent staff of 12 is employed. Having worked full hands on vineyards this is a ratio of staff to land near 50% higher than most, and, a clear indication of just how much work goes into the vineyard.

A Tale of 3 Nebbiolo’s

Sandrone’s three Nebbiolo’s represent quite distinct philosophies and sites.

The single vineyard ‘Valmaggiore’ from the Roero just north of Barolo region makes a wine that is at one extreme of Nebbiolo, elegant and feminine, Pinot-esque, whilst the Barolo’s, the multi-site ‘Le Vigne’ and Cru ‘Aleste’ previously named Cannubi Boschis rest at the other, bold, proud, yet with a sophistication and restraint that yields great poise and intrigue.

Historically Barolo, was just Barolo, it didn’t matter where it came from, a blend was made and a single wine released. Bartolo Mascarello the most well known proponent of this approach through all the evolutions that Barolo has seen over recent decades.

In recent times, single vineyard wines, known as Cru’s, have become the norm. This is no different to the wine 1er Cru’s of Burgundy that often ended up in the village wines.

The interesting point for Sandrone of the two Barolo they have one sitting in each camp.

The belief that the blend, delivers a wine that is better than the sum of its parts, and, for the Cru wine that a true, pure expression of the vineyard, the terroir will be poured into your glass.

At the end of the day. We’re not in the position to argue the toss, as we don’t have the components of the blend to try over time, nor do we have a  blended version of the Cru.

It makes for an intriguing comparison with winemaking in Australia. Some of Australia’s greats have based their wines on blending within a region, across regions and even states. Others have made their name on single vineyard wines. What remains constant is both, blended and single vineyard approaches, have produced outstanding wines.

and now a 4th … The Barolo ‘Viti Talin’

Below is a cast of Barbara talking through the 2013 releases and a number of back vintages of Sandrones wines. We spent half an hour chatting after the masterclass. She’s a wonderfully down to earth, passionate woman, who truly believes she’s lucky to share the experience of working the land with her family.