Luciano Sandrone Barolo ‘Aleste’ a.k.a ‘Cannubi Boschis’ MAGNUM 2013

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

ALESTE is the new name for Sandrone’s Barolo Cannubi Boschis. Giving all the experience, knowledge, patience and passion of his many harvests, Luciano pays tribute, with boldness and sensibility, to the next family generation: “ALESTE” is in fact the combination of the names of his grandchildren ALEssia and STEfano.

Over the last decade conflict has reigned upon the owners of Cannubi and the sub-regions, Cannubi-Boschis, Cannubi-San Lorenzo, Cannubi-Muscatel, and, Cannubi-Valletta. In question the naming of the main Cannubi vineyard and whether it’s status should be passed on the all the sub-regions.

With an established reputation, and, the confidence, or, perhaps wisdom of 40 years experience, the name change was opportune.

This site has been vinified separately by Luciano Sandrone since 1985, a decision that was instrumental in bringing the concept of single vineyard or “Cru” wines to the fore in Barolo. To be clear, Boschis is a particular terroir or vineyard within the Cannubi hill. The Boschis subzone sits near the northern end of the hill, and is located directly across the little valley from the Sandrone winery. The cru (of which Sandrone farm 1.9 hectares of 37 year old vines) has a particularly good exposure to the south and southeast in a small amphitheatre or “conca” that helps hold warmth in the early morning. Its soils are sea deposits of calcareous clay with good drainage. Highlighting the distinction in this terroir’s wines from the rest of the Cannubi hill, Alessandro Masnaghetti’s L’Enciclopedia delle Grandi Vigne del Barolo describes a Boschis wine thus, “The wines, in general, have good body, much elegance, and more polished tannins than other Cannubi wines.”

You can read more about Luciano Sandrone in the Wine Bites Mag article ‘The Sandrone Sessions with Barbara Sandrone’.

A Tale of 3 Nebbiolo’s

Sandrone’s three Nebbiolo’s represent quite distinct philosophies and sites.

The single vineyard ‘Valmaggiore’ from the Roero just north of Barolo region makes a wine that is at one extreme of Nebbiolo, elegant and feminine, Pinot-esque, whilst the Barolo’s, the multi-site ‘Le Vigne’ and Cru ‘Aleste’ previously named Cannubi Boschis rest at the other, bold, proud, yet with a sophistication and restraint that yields great poise and intrigue.

Historically Barolo, was just Barolo, it didn’t matter where it came from, a blend was made and a single wine released. Bartolo Mascarello the most well known proponent of this approach through all the evolutions that Barolo has seen over recent decades.

In recent times, single vineyard wines, known as Cru’s, have become the norm. This is no different to the wine 1er Cru’s of Burgundy that often ended up in the village wines.

The interesting point for Sandrone of the two Barolo they have one sitting in each camp.

The belief that the blend, delivers a wine that is better than the sum of its parts, and, for the Cru wine that a true, pure expression of the vineyard, the terroir will be poured into your glass.

At the end of the day. We’re not in the position to argue the toss, as we don’t have the components of the blend to try over time, nor do we have a  blended version of the Cru.

It makes for an intriguing comparison with winemaking in Australia. Some of Australia’s greats have based their wines on blending within a region, across regions and even states. Others have made their name on single vineyard wines. What remains constant is both, blended and single vineyard approaches, have produced outstanding wines.

From Sandrone we had the wines in the glass. Yesterday Barbara Sandrone shared ‘Valmaggiore’ from 2015 and 2011. ‘Le Vigne’ from 2013, 2007, 2004 and 2001. ‘Aleste’ from 2013, 2007, 2006 and 2001.

Sandrone’s wines stand proud no matter the region, or, whether the wine was blended or single source! Read more about them in the reviews below.

To put this in context. I’ve drunk an incredible amount of Barolo and Barbaresco. Just last month I’ve devoured 12 vintages of Giacomo Conterno’s Cascina Francia, 11 Cru Wine from Produttori Barbaresco, 3 from Domenico Clerico, 12 Cappellano’s both Pei Francesca and Rupestris, Monprivato, Gaja Barbaresco, Aldo Conterno’s Romirasco, Vietti’s Castiglione, and, several of Paolo Scavino’s Cru’s.

Below is a cast of Barbara talking through the current releases and a number of back vintages of Sandrones wines. We spent half an hour chatting after the masterclass. She’s a wonderfully down to earth, passionate woman, who truly believes she’s lucky to share the experience of working the land with her family.