Albino Rocca ‘Ovello Vigna Loreto’ Barbaresco 2017

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

From the Winery

The Loreto vineyard is located on the west side of the Geographical Mention “Ovello”, in the heart of the historic area of Barbaresco. Vinified separately for the first time in the 1980’s tells another story of Barbaresco, first a wine full of harmony accompanied by intensity, structure and warmth.

Barbaresco’s Ovello cru spans a ridge, with both slopes of the crest planted to vines. Within this large cru there are several delimited parcels of vines, of which Rocca’s ‘Vigna Loreto’ is one. It is a tiny plot that is effectively what we would call a monopole. Although this plot sits on the sunnier, southwestern face of the ridge, it also directly faces the cooling influence of the Tanaro river, so the nights here are much cooler. Clay and limestone soils here are also more sandy and light than the rest of Ovello, giving wines of far more finesse. On the other hand, vines from Loreto must be cropped at 10 hl/hl less than other Ovello vines (if it is to be bottled under the Loreto name), so the Rocca wine, by comparison, is no shrinking violet, gifting a wine that is typically more supple and textural than the Rocca’s nearby Ronchi cru and certainly denser than the Montersino cru. Rocca’s vines here are around 45 years old and the fruit was first vinified as a separate bottling in 1980. Today the Ovello cru makes roughly 200 cases in a typical year.

About Albino Rocca

It’s easy to forget that Nebbiolo, produced from great sites and mature vines can be a wickedly seductive wine to drink young. The late Angelo Rocca was a master at reminding us of this fact. His wines – and now those of this daughters – are plump, textural, seductive Barbaresco’s that are surprisingly forward yet clearly have the stuffing and powdery tannins to age. All of the Rocca wines are from Estate vineyards and all are grown 100 percent within the boundaries of the Barbaresco region (even the Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo d’Alba and Moscato!).

When Angelo Rocca tragically passed away in 2012 in a light plane accident, Barbaresco lost one of its most distinguished growers. It also lost a wonderful person and a deeply respected member of the Piemontese community. Rocca was a grower operating at the peak of his powers and producing the most exciting, terroir-intense wines of his career. His three daughters (Daniela, Monica and Paola) along with Angelo’s cellarmaster (and son-in-law) Carlo are determined to continue this legacy and so far they have not missed a beat.

The Rocca’s efforts to continually improve the quality of all of their Estate’s wines, has resulted in some superb offerings over the last few vintages. All of the wines are aged in large, neutral botti and remain contemporary in the sense that they are ripe, pure and meticulously made, but instead of any distracting new oak character you have solely the wonderful dark cherry, floral and savoury structured personality of Nebbiolo in all its Piemontese glory. Albino Rocca’s wines are not only outstanding examples of Barbaresco writ large, they are also very fairly priced.

“Paola, Monica and Daniela Rocca have unhesitatingly taken up the winemaking and moral legacy of their father Angelo following since his untimely death in 2012. They now continue with the story that won many fans thanks to above all to the happy combination of courteous affability permeating the Ronchi farm and the appealing, well-measured pace of the Estate’s Barbarescos.” Gambero Rosso 2015

“Albino Rocca is one of the most intriguing estates in Barbaresco right now.” Antonio Galloni, vinous.com

In the Vineyard

We didn’t discuss much about what’s happening in the vineyards. The pic’s of their vines look pretty. Anyways, what’s in the glass tastes delicious!

In the Winery

They keep it really simple. There’s been a shift toward oak Tine (open fermenters) from stainless. They’ve always used large oak botti for maturation from Stockinger. Occasionally when a new one is introduced and little oak lift may be evident, as if the case with the Cottà from 2016. Macertions show thought and good touch making wines with excellent mouthfeel.

Where in the World is Albino Rocca

Albino Rocca’s Barbaresco Vineyards are in the Crus of Montersino in the far South, Ovello on the north resting on the banks of the Tanaro, in Ronchi facing the cooler South East adjacent to Rabaja Bas, and, Cotta facing South West opposite Ronchi and Rabaja. They also have holdings in the Roero for their Langhe Nebbiolo and Alba right next to Barbaresco for their Nebbiolo d’Alba.