One of the most satisfying parts of this gig is sharing delicious vino with others who share the same passion for imbibing liquids that make your heart race!
Today we have the special wines of these four producers to offer you, lovers of Nebbiolo and previous buyers of these wines.
Included are Museum releases of Cappellano back to 1998!
Please request as much as you want. Call it a wishlist!
After the dust has settled I’ll share these out as best I can.
You’ll receive confirmation of your allocation along with an invoice.
Wines will only be secured once payment has been received.
Critic reviews are limited to the Cappellano’s and are not scored at Cappellano’s request. I haven’t had the chance to try any of these yet. Hopefully, there will be a couple of bottles left for me to try.
The track record of these producers speaks for themselves!
The wines will hit the warehouse late August / Early September
Shout out if you have any questions.
Cappellano
Cappellano sits with the greats of Barolo along with Giuseppe Rinaldi, Bartolo Mascarello and Giacomo Conterno.
Luca Carrudo of Vietti considers Baldo a second father.
A couple of years ago I was blessed to attend a dinner with a double vertical of Cappellano wines, the Rupestris and Piè Franco. These names refer to rootstock of the vines. Rupestris vines being grafted onto American rootstock, resistant to phylloxera, Piè Franco or French foot vines being ungrafted, on their own roots, and thus susceptible to attack from phylloxera!
The two wines although from the same vineyard and made in the same way are remarkably different. Typically the Rupestris has much more generosity of fruit a richness and certain power. The Piè Franco is lythe, elegant, and sophisticated. It’s going to be fascinating to see what happens in the Yarra Valley, where, as of the last 5 years or so, replanting from old vines on their own roots to grafted vines on large scale to combat the ingress of phylloxera has commenced. Will we see the same powering up of the wines? Only time will tell.
The vineyards in Gabutti in Serralunga d’Alba are unanimously regarded as one of the most prestigious ‘crus’ of the Barolo-producing area. Everyone now knows all about Sordo’s Gabutti. Given the naming of Cappellano’s wines many don’t realise they come from the same patch of land!
After Teobaldo passed away unexpectedly in 2009, Augusto took over and despite the pressure on him, He went in his very own way in both vineyard and cellar with undeniable success. Cappellano releases his Pie’ Rupestris & Pie’ Franco one year after most of other Barolos; when Teobaldo used to prefer the extra year to be in barrel, Augusto opted for bottle ageing instead, aiming for more fragrancy and precision.
The 2019 Vintage @ Cappellano
This is a fine set of new releases from Cappellano. The 2019s offer the finely-sketched classicism that is such a signature here. That is especially true of the Rupestris, which can be slightly more obvious than the Franco.
As good as the Barolos are, the 2019 Barbera is not too far behind. I can’t say things have changed too much since I first started tasting here more than twenty years ago, as developments are best described as slow evolution and fine-tuning over long periods.
The Cappellano wines remain very much artisan in spirit and defined by the values of another era, a time when things moved at a far more gradual pace than they do today.
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
The Wines
2021 Cappellano Barbera
$110ea, $105ea in any 3+, $100ea in any 6+
Augusto Cappellano has a friend in Roero who owns vines and had joked for years, “These grapes would taste so much better made in your cellar”–so, beginning in 2021, they finally made it happen. Augusto produces roughly 4,000 bottles per vintage from his friend’s vineyard, from Barbera planted in the zone’s characteristic white, sandy soils. Vinified and aged in a combination of cement and steel, it offers bright, clean acidity and soft tannins which are significantly more polite than those found in Augusto’s home turf of Serralunga. It nonetheless possesses a density, sappiness, and overall sense of equilibrium that is very Cappellano.
The 2021 Barbera d’Alba marries juicy dark fruit with quite a bit of supporting structure. Black cherry, gravel, menthol, licorice, spice and mocha build nicely. The 2021 is deep and mysterious, but also a bit rustic in its contours, with less finesse than is typical of the estate Barbera here. Drink 2023-2038
Antonio Galloni – NR as per request from Cappellano
2019 Cappellano Barbera Gabutti
$154ea, $147ea in any 3+, $140ea in any 6+
The 2019 Barbera d’Alba Gabutti is a delicate, perfumed Barbera with a Nebbiolo-like feeling of mid-weight structure. Succulent dark cherry fruit, tobacco, spice, leather, menthol and blood orange are pushed forward. A kick of bright acids on the finish keeps things vibrant. This unique, idiosyncratic Barbera is compelling. I have no doubt Cappellano fans with love it. Drink 2024-2034
Antonio Galloni – NR as per request from Cappellano
2019 Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’
$350ea, $335ea in any 3+, $320ea in any 6+
Magnums – $740ea, $720ea in any 3+, $700ea in any 6+
The 2019 Barolo Rupestris is elegant, gracious and wonderfully lifted. All the elements are so wonderfully in balance. Crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, blood orange and spice soar out of the glass. Deep and pliant, the Rupestris has an extra level of refinement in 2019 that places it among the most successful wines of the vintage. It’s an absolutely joyous wine from Augusto Cappellano that is also quite open today. I suspect that won’t be the case for long, as the 2019 will likely shut down in bottle soon. Drink 2029-2059
Antonio Galloni – NR as per request from Cappellano
2019 Cappellano Barolo ‘Piè Franco’
$800ea
Magnums $2,160ea
The 2019 Barolo Piè Franco has the same glorious, pure fruit of the Rupestris, but with more acid bite and stronger floral/savory top notes. Focused, taut and driving in feel, the 2019 exudes energy from start to finish. Rose petal, blood orange, sage, mint and crushed red berry fruit all run through this beautifully sculpted, vivid Barolo. This is a superb example of the classicism of the year. Drink 2029-2069
Antonio Galloni – NR as per request from Cappellano
MUSEUM RELEASE
Direct from Cappellano’s Cellars
Cappellano Barbera ‘Gabutti’
2018 $155ea, $150ea in any 3+, $145ea in any 6+
2017 $155ea, $150ea in any 3+, $145ea in any 6+
2015 $160ea, $155ea in any 3+, $150ea in any 6+
Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’
2017 $350ea, $340ea in any 3+, $330ea in any 6+
2006 $1,080ea, $1,060ea in any 3+, $1,040ea in any 6+
2005 $810ea, $790ea in any 3+, $770ea in any 6+
2004 $1,205ea, $1,185ea in any 3+, $1,165ea in any 6+
2003 $930ea, $810ea in any 3+, $790ea in any 6+
2000 MAGNUM $1,845ea, $1,825ea in any 3+, $1,805ea in any 6+
1998 $1,210ea, $1,190ea in any 3+, $1,170ea in any 6+
Cappellano Barolo ‘Piè Franco’
2017 MAGNUM $1,900ea, $1,980ea in any 3+, $1,960ea in any 6+
2007 $1,375ea, $1,355ea in any 3+, $1,335ea in any 6+
2003 $1,570ea, $1,550ea in any 3+, $1,530ea in any 6+
2000 $1,530ea, $1,510ea in any 3+, $1,490ea in any 6+
1998 $2,075ea, $2,550ea in any 3+, $2,035ea in any 6+
Giovanni Canonica
Wines like these are so rare that it is impossible to try them before they land in the country and they invariably sell out before you get to!
Giovanni Canonica is a hidden legend in the town of Barolo. He and his family run a small agriturismo where, in the cellars below, he makes his wines. He has only 1.5 hectares of vines in the Paiagallo vineyard directly on the hill above Barolo. The only other proprietors in this vineyard site are Marchesi de Gresy and Fontanafredda, neither of whom does a mono-vineyard bottling from it.
Giovanni proves, in the right hands, that doing so merits consideration. His holdings are also separated from the conventional vineyard work of the other producers in a way that keeps as much integrity to Canonica’s vines as possible. The vineyard is planted in Nebbiolo in the best spots and Barbera in the less interesting plots. Everything is traditional in the vineyard and cellar: no herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers, only sulfur and copper treatments, de-stemming, maceration for 30-40 days using only indigenous yeasts, vertical hand press, then into cement and slavonian oak for aging. A small number of bottles are made, mostly sold at the cellar.
The Wines
2022 Giovanni Canonica Langhe Nebbiolo
$125ea, $120ea in any 3+, $115ea in any 6+
2020 Giovanni Canonica Barolo ‘Grinzane Cavour’
$198ea, $188ea in any 3+, $178ea in any 6+
2020 Giovanni Canonica Barolo ‘Paiagallo’
$198ea, $188ea in any 3+, $178ea in any 6+
Magnum $425ea, $405ea in any 3+, $385ea in any 6+
Olek Bondonio
Olek Bondonio is certainly not your typical Italian winemaker!
He loves surfing, snowboarding and has a penchant bordering on the obsessive for Vegemite. After studying oenology he embarked on a few years of travel where he traversed the globe doing as many vintages as he could. This exposure to different soil types, various traditions and diverse approaches in both the cellar and vineyard resulted in his fascination with a sense of place and a drive to best express that through his wines. His production epitomizes the saying that great wine is made in the vineyard, where he works tirelessly to grow healthy fruit without synthetic additions or chemical input. He continues to cultivate grapes that have long been planted in that zone such as Barbera, Pelaverga, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo.
Olek has been making wines under his own label since 2004, his farm, La Berchialla, has been in the family for over 200 years and is a remarkable property sitting atop the hill of Cru Roncagliette (which incidentally is the same vineyard of Gaja Sori Tildin).
Olek has incredible touch. The man understands textures and tannins, creates wines with insane perfumes and layer after layer of diving flavours. I can’t wait to hook into these when they hit the warehouse!
The Wines
2021 Olek Bondonio Barbaresco ‘Roncagliette’
$186ea, $179ea in any 3+, $173ea in any 6+
Roncagliette (which incidentally is the same vineyard of Gaja Sori Tildin) is part of a cluster of epic vineyards including Roncaglie and Roccalini. Olek’s Roncagliette has become one of those wines you just buy every year! Every release I’ve tried since the first, 2015, have been divine. A testament to Olek’s skills in both the vineyard and the winery.
You’ll find wines from Vietti, Fletcher and Poderi Colla from this cluster of vineyards.
2021 Olek Bondonio Barbaresco ‘Starderi’
$186ea, $179ea in any 3+, $173ea in any 6+
Starderi is in the center north in the commune of Nieve, Barbaresco. Francesco Versio make delicious blended iteration.
Cascina Pugnane
It was Giusseppe Rinaldi that told Giorgio of the beauty of the wines from Cascina Pugnane.
It’s rare to find 2 Barolo around $100 that are such excellent drinks.
Brothers Enzo and Ivo Ghisolfi resumed farming in 1998 after a period of about 40 years in which the vines had been entrusted to third parties for processing with sharecropping and lease contracts.
Azienda Agricola Cascina Pugnane dei f.lli Ghisolfi is situated on a hill where the Municipalities of Barolo, Monforte and Castiglione Falletto meet, in the heart of the Barolo area on the hill of Pugnane. Basically, the Golden Triangle of Barolo!
The Wines
2019 Cascina Pugnane Barolo ‘Pugnane’
$116ea, $111ea in any 3+, $106ea in any 6+
There’s a lovely density to Pugnane, bolder than the Bussia with a lift in structure too. Pure, joyful Neb!
2019 Cascina Pugnane Barolo ‘Bussia’
$116ea, $111ea in any 3+, $106ea in any 6+
Bussia always has a certain sophitication and beauty for me. Pugnane’s Bussia is deceptive with its generosity. Always a lovely perfume, line and length of some very sophisticated fruit. Layered earthy complexity bumps the intrigue level up a notch.
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