The 2022 Vintage in General by Jasper Morris MW – Inside Burgundy
“All other things being equal, I would recommend going large in 2022, large in the sense of a broad range because there are so many really good wines at all levels.”
Jasper Morris MW
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The Domaines
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or
Domaine de la Vougeraie
Domaine Comte Armand
Domaine Henri Gouges
Domaine de Montille
The 2022 Vintage
Burghound on the 2022 Vintage
2022 Côte de Nuits Revisited – Basically Similar to Last Year’s Impressions
Happily, revisiting the now in-bottle 2022s this past October and November did not produce many surprises one way or the other. It is undoubtedly riper than 2023 but it’s also denser and as a general rule, more structured, more consistent and more reserved but also a bit more alcoholic. Otherwise stated, it will probably be more long-lived. With that said, it’s not especially austere so as I observed last year, it’s not so backward as to need extended bottle aging before the 2022s could be reasonably approachable, say in the fashion of the 2020s which remain very background and often somewhat grumpy.
A couple of key points based on what I found with my now in-bottle tastings are worth emphasizing. The first is to underscore that quality was relatively consistent. I say relatively because the massive June storm that hit Gevrey, with some collateral damage in Morey, Brochon and Fixin, had effects of varying consequence. Add to this a minor hailstorm in the southern part of Nuits-St. Georges and it’s easy to understand that as good as 2022 is, there are reasons that blanket generalizations won’t work as well as they might with some other vintages.
The Gevrey storm was more a phenomenon affecting the vineyards on or near the Combe de Lavaux, which most notably includes such vineyards as Clos St. Jacques, Lavaut St. Jacques, Estournelles St. Jacques, Cazetiers, Combe au Moine and Champeaux. Even so, I sampled both excellent, and some not so excellent, wines from all of these vineyards. Thus it doesn’t work to simply eliminate them from consideration. In Nuits St. Georges, it was the same conundrum as there are both good, and less so, wines from Les St. Georges, Vaucrains, Les Cailles and so forth.
Putting those exceptions aside, good to genuinely great wines were made up and down the Côte from Marsannay to Corgoloin (in the appellation of Côte de Nuits-Villages) but so were average wines, though importantly, rarely poor examples, hence my underscoring that consistency is a major attribute of the vintage. But this also means that there weren’t really any star communes in 2022 and this statement was borne out by my tastings. If I had to choose just one commune, it would probably be Vosne-Romanée though I emphasize that the difference between it and the others is sufficiently nominal as to be not especially noteworthy. A strong second though would be the commune of Marsannay as the growers there are making a serious effort and it’s showing.
The second key point is that 2022 is strong up and down the appellation hierarchy. Indeed one could reasonably argue that it’s just as good, in the context of each level, that the regional wines are as good as the grand crus, again, not from the standpoint of absolute quality but rather relative quality.
The third point is that, again as pointed out last year in my 2022 Vintage Summary, it’s not a perfect vintage. Yes, there is a great deal to like but some wines are definitely over ripe, or dilute, or sufficiently high in alcohol to have warm finishes or over-extracted. Fortunately, wines with these faults or deficiencies are in the minority but just be aware that there are clunkers out there.
The fourth point is that the average red is firm but not especially hard and certainly less austere than some recent vintages, in particular 2020 and 2021. It also doesn’t have the sometimes-annoying sweetness of the 2019 vintage and while it’s ripe, it’s not as obviously marked by the sun as 2018. As such, you have to go back to 2017 to find a vintage with similar drinkability characteristics and it’s no contest between 2022 and 2017 in terms of consistency.
The fifth, and final, point is that 2022 was a larger than average crop and 2023 is huge. As such, prices such be at least reasonable though I take pains to highlight that reasonable does not mean cheap. Moreover, volumes were positively crushed in 2024 so what price relief that consumers might enjoy could be short lived.
In sum, 2022 is a vintage that I recommend that you put in your cellars in at least moderate quantities.
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or ☝︎ Index
Check out or existing Pousse d’Or holdings + Explore the Domaine in Full Detail
Since the end of the last century, Patrick Landanger has been the owner of the Domaine. He made significant investments in the vineyards as well as in the winemaking facilities and cellars.
He has been joined by his son, Benoit, who has been helping him with the winemaking as from 2013. Their ambitions on quality are reflected in the deep respect of the terroirs they run. The biodynamic certification will complete this choice.
Meet Benoit Landanger and learn about the history of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in the video below:
The 2022 Vintage at Domaine de la Pousse d’Or
From Burghound
Benoît Landanger, who has assumed the direction of this domaine and has converted it to biodynamic farming principles, was away at the time of my visit though he did leave a brief ‘welcome video’ with a few details about the 2022 vintage, which I confess in the almost 25 years as a professional critic, was a first! However, I was very capably received and as noted last year, there have been significant changes in the domaine’s holdings. The total vineyard area under management is now an impressive 17.4 ha though the details are still being working out as it’s possible that Benoît may found a new domaine based in Gevrey to run in conjunction with Pousse d’Or. The additions include a leased parcel of .27 ha in the Gevrey 1er of La Perrière and .26 ha in Mazoyères (which is being declared as Charmes-Chambertin) as well as a .11 ha holding in the Echézeaux climat of Poullailères. For the time being, the additions are noted as “managed by the Landanger Family”. On the other side of the ledger, the parcel of Feusselottes was traded away.
Effectively this means that the domaine now works with an incredible 7 grand crus (6 reds plus Chevalier-Montrachet) and fully 11 premier crus (10 red and 1 white, the Puligny Caillerets); just as impressive is that 3 of the premier crus are monopoles! Once again, I had a chance to taste three wines that were vinified exactly the same as the regular cuvées but were raised in amphora; this is to say the En Caillerets, Clos de la Bousse d’Or and the Clos des 60 Ouvrées vineyards. I note these using the term amphore in the reviews, but the actual terminology found on the label reads “Vinifié et Élevé en Amphore”. As the scores and commentaries confirm, I was very impressed with the wines in 2022 and in particular, those from Volnay really stood out.
WHITE
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Clos le Cailleret” Premier Cru $359 MAGNUM $724
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $1,711
RED
SANTENAY “Clos Tavannes” $167 Half $95
VOLNAY “En Caillerets” Premier Cru $230
VOLNAY “Clos d’Audignac” (Monopole) Premier Cru $260
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or” (Monopole) Premier Cru $270 MAGNUM $595
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or – Amphore” (Monopole) Premier Cru $276
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées” (Monopole) Premier Cru $284 MAGNUM $652
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées – Amphore” (Monopole) Premier Cru $290
CORTON “Les Bressandes” Grand Cru $311
CORTON “Clos du Roi” Grand Cru $325 MAGNUM $694
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “La Perriere” Premier Cru $323
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY $236 Half $124
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Grosseilles” Premier Cru $353
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Charmes” Premier Cru $475
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Amoureuses” Premier Cru $1,099
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru $1,135
ECHEZEAUX Grand Cru $1,188
BONNES-MARES Grand Cru $1,188
CLOS DE LA ROCHE Grand Cru $1,188
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 95 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (Volnay)
2022 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Clos le Cailleret”: (from a .70 ha parcel; raised in 350-liter barrels). Cool, airy and beautifully layered aromas include those of petrol, an array of floral elements and a mix of white fleshed fruit, citrus and spice. There is excellent richness to the rich and sappy medium-bodied flavors that exude even minerality on the bitter lemon-inflected and impressively long finish. This compact and built-to-age effort is both stylish and classy and while it does need to develop better depth, that is all but assured if the wine is given a chance. (91-94)/2032+ ♥ Outstanding
2022 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET: (from a .125 ha parcel). This is also quite floral and airy in character with additional smoky notes of spiced apple, pear and a subtle hint of wood toast. There is fine power and intensity to the super-sleek larger-bodied flavors that possess cuts-like-a-knife delineation while displaying superb length on the youthfully austere and well-balanced finish. This is even more tightly wound than the Caillerets and while it’s not a monster of concentration it is still a wine that should amply repay extended cellaring. (92-95)/2034+
RED REVIEWS
Issue 94 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (Volnay)
SANTENAY “Clos Tavannes”: An attractively fresh and airy nose speaks mostly of violet, poached plum and newly turned earth nuances. There is good vibrancy, if barely average density, to the utterly delicious and lightly stony middleweight flavors that offer solid length on the ever-so-slightly warm finale. This could be enjoyed young if desired. (89-91)/2028+
VOLNAY “En Caillerets”: Here too the wonderfully spicy nose is quite fresh with elegant purple fruit, exotic tea and sandalwood hints. The mouthfeel of the more concentrated medium weight flavors is markedly finer with more evident minerality adding a sense of lift to the sleek, precise, youthfully austere and noticeably firmer finale. Lovely. (90-93)/2030+ ♥ Outstanding
VOLNAY “Clos d’Audignac” (Monopole): (a northeast facing vineyard that rarely gets the same degree of sunlight as the other Volnay 1ers in the portfolio and thus it can often be more Pommard-like than Volnay in character). This is also agreeably spicy on the slightly earthier red and dark berry fruit aromas. As is always the case, there is more volume and power to the more concentrated and tauty muscular flavors that aren’t nearly as refined on the long, complex and built-to-age finale. As is always the case with the Clos l’Audignac, this is a wine that demands aging and a minimum of 5 to 7 years will be necessary. (91-93)/2034+ ♥ Outstanding
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or” (Monopole): A perfumed and exceptionally pretty, elegant and pure nose speaks of wafting essence of red berries, especially cherry, along with exotic spice and floral wisps. I very much like the texture of the beautifully refined middleweight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the bitter pit fruit-inflected finish that displays excellent length. This could use better depth but that should only be a matter of patience. (91-94)/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or – Amphore” (Monopole): This is aromatically similar to the regular cuvée if perhaps just a bit fresher. On the palate, there is less difference here than between the two cuvées of Caillerets, while offering the same excellent length. This is lovely and vey Zen-like while it too could use more depth, again, that should just be a matter of patience. 91-94/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées” (Monopole): An exotically spicy and broadly floral-suffused nose is comprised mostly by ripe plum and black cherry scents. The super-sleek and highly energetic medium weight flavors brim with both dry extract and an almost aggressive minerality on the precise, intense, balanced and lingering finish that, like the Bousse d’Or, would benefit from better depth. Even so, this is very classy juice with the aging potential to match. (92-94)/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées – Amphore” (Monopole): Here there is almost no difference between this cuvée and the regular save perhaps for just a touch more freshness though it’s minimal. On the palate there is just a hair more vibrancy and precision though not more depth or persistence on the balanced, lightly austere and impressively long finish that would also benefit from better depth. It will be interesting to compare the two cuvées at full maturity to see what, if anything, aging in amphore has added or, possibly, subtracted. 92-94/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
CORTON “Clos du Roi”: Here a more reticent and cooler nose is both gamier and spicier. The super-sleek medium-bodied flavors possess a gorgeous mouthfeel together with solid power on the more refined and ever-so-slightly longer and notably firmer finish. This is impeccably well-balanced but in contrast to the Bressandes, extended patience will absolutely be necessary, indeed I would suggest not touching a bottle before 10 years of age. (92-95)/2037+
CORTON “Les Bressandes”: (from a .5 ha parcel). Fresh, bright and layered aromas include those of red currant, forest floor and humus-inflected earth. There is very good density to the muscular but refined larger-bodied flavors that display impressive power on the balanced, firm and sneaky long finish. This should also age effortlessly for years though be reasonably approachable after only 7 to 8. (92-94)/2034+
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “La Perriere”: (from a leased .25 ha parcel). A moderately deeply pitched nose is composed of plum, dark cherry, pungent earth and whiffs of the sauvage. There is again a lovely texture and subtle minerality to the medium weight flavors that are not especially dense while offering good length on the mildly rustic finale that is firm enough to repay a decade plus of keeping. (90-92)/2032+
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Grosseilles”: (from a .52 ha parcel). This is also aromatically perfumed with better layering to the spicier aromas of mostly red cherry and rose petal. There is markedly more refinement to the seductively, even generously, textured medium weight flavors that also exude a subtle bead of minerality on the impressively long, balanced and more complex finale. This is excellent and is a wine that could be approached young but reward a decade plus of cellaring. 91-94/2032+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Charmes”: (from a .19 ha parcel). A more deeply pitched nose combines notes of poached plum and exotic tea with those of violet, lilac and a suggestion of wood. The richer and more voluminous flavors possess more evident power if not the same refinement on the more structured finale. This is also nicely balanced but in contrast to the Groseilles, it’s not likely to drink especially well before 8 to 10 years have passed. 91-93/2031+ ♥ Outstanding
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Amoureuses”: (from a .20 ha parcel). A very fresh anAs one might expect, this possesses the spiciest nose to this point with its wonderfully floral red berry fruit aromas. The borderline painfully intense flavors possess a super-sleek and chiseled mouthfeel that is akin to rolling small rocks around the mouth on the dusty, moderately austere, compact and built-to-age finale. I would strongly recommend not touching a bottle of this beauty before at least 10 years have passed. 92-95/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN: (from a .26 ha parcel in Mazoyères). An expansively floral-suffused red berry fruit nose is nuanced by hints of earth, the sauvage, underbrush and a barely perceptible touch of wood. There is reasonably good volume and density to the medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent depth and persistence on the youthfully austere and decidedly compact finale. Patience strongly suggested here as well. 92-95/2034+
ECHEZEAUX: (from a .11 ha parcel in Poullailères). This is the first wine to display any meaningful level of reduction and here it’s enough to push the fruit to the background. By contrast there is a lovely sense of verve and freshness on the palate of the sleek but intense and generously proportioned medium weight plus flavors that coat the mouth on the sneaky long finish. While this could use better depth, the underlying material is such that more is all but guaranteed to develop. (92-94)/2034+
BONNES-MARES: (from a .17 ha parcel). An exceptionally fresh nose freely reveals its aromas of mostly floral-suffused red berries and a background touch of earth. The caressing yet solidly concentrated and powerful larger-bodied flavors possess excellent length on the moderately austere and somewhat grippy finale. I suspect that the grippiness will progressively subside as the tannins resolve but I doubt that this will ever be an elegant or refined Bonnes Mares. (90-93)/2034+
CLOS DE LA ROCHE: (from a .32 ha parcel). There is an interesting hint of smoked meat character to the spicy plum, newly turned earth and softly floral-scented nose. Once again there is an appealing texture to the broad-shouldered and muscular flavors that possess fine volume before concluding in a very firmly structured and impressively long finale. This too could use better depth but this should make for impressive old bones if given a chance. 93-95/2037+
Domaine de la Vourgeraie ☝︎ Index
Check out or existing Vougeriae holdings + Explore the Domaine in Full Detail
The Domaine de la Vougeraie was created by bringing together the Boisset family’s vineyards and other wine estates acquired over the years. The first of these goes back to 1964 with the first plot, Les Evocelles, in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, which was bought by our father when he started out.
More than 20 years later came a second phase, with the addition of more vineyards including our first foothold on the Côte de Beaune. In 1996, the vineyards which today make up the third of our estate on the Côte de Beaune were acquired. This was followed by the acquisition of Le Clos Blanc, the famous monopole which produces its renowned golden nectar. These vines in our family village were the natural inspiration for the Domaine de la Vougeraie, like a return to our childhood roots.
Nathalie & Jean-Charles Boisset
A patchwork of 74 plots covering 42 hectares make up the estate, two-thirds on the Côte de Nuits, one-third on the Côte de Beaune, together producing 36 appellations. At the heart is the diamond set among rubies, the legendary monopole of Vougeot Premier Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot.
Lovingly tended soils, low yields for concentrated fruit, which is then handled with extreme care throughout growing cycle, followed by hand-stitched vinification and ageing for each plot: All of this contributes to a style that is all about elegance and the continual quest for a precise expression of terroir.
The 2022 Vintage at Domaine de la Vougeraie
From Burghound
Sylvie Poillot, who is the general manager of this now 52 ha domaine of which 70% of the production is in red, told me that the 2022 growing season was “hot, dry and so much easier to manage than was 2021. Yes, we did have some early season excitement with frost risk and then June brought a massive storm with hail, where we had vines affected in Gevrey and Nuits. In the end though, the abundant water from the storm served the vines well later in the season as it really was exceptionally dry. We picked from the 26th of August to the 13th of September and as always, it was necessary to be extremely well-organized as we have 170 different parcels. Moreover, getting the 150 pickers where they needed to be is a challenge that requires precision.
Yields were good though not especially generous with potential alcohols that were mostly in the 12.5 to 13% range, in fact the highest was our parcel of Charmes-Chambertin that came in at 13.5%. I chose to vinify very lightly as there were only two punch downs total. I used varying levels of whole clusters and some, especially for the top level wines, were fully 100%. As to the wines, I love this vintage as it has excellent terroir transparency with good verve and freshness. Moreover, it’s really good in both colors which isn’t something that happens all the time. I would compare the reds to perhaps 2012 and the whites remind me quite a bit of our 2017s.” I was impressed by the quality I found here as several of the wines are excellent and in particular the Beaune “Grèves”, Charmes-Chambertin and the Musigny really stood out.
WHITE
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET $201
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Champ Gain” Premier Cru $327
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Morgeot “Clos de la Chapelle” (Monopole) Premier Cru $327
VOUGEOT “Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot” (Monopole) Premier Cru $406
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE “Le Charlemagne” Grand Cru $590
BATARD-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $1,220
BIENVENUES-BATARD-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $1.275
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $1,645
RED
PINOT NOIR “Terre de Famille” $85
BEAUNE “Les Greves” Premier Cru $179
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY $274
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN $195
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “Les Evocelles” $232
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “Bel Air” Premier Cru $353
VOUGEOT “Les Cras” Premier Cru $286
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Morgeot “Clos de la Chapelle” (Monopole) Premier Cru $327
CORTON “Clos du Roi” Grand Cru $406
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN “Les Mazoyeres” Grand Cru $959
CLOS de VOUGEOT Grand Cru 750ml $722 Magnum $1,507
BONNES MARES Grand Cru $1,220
MUSIGNY Grand Cru $2,480
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 95 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de la Vougeraie (Prémeaux-Prissey)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET: (from Noyer Bret, Au Paupillot and La Rue aux Vaches). Here too there is a petrol nuance present on the ripe aromas of white orchard fruit and plenty of floral elements, in particular acacia and carnation. There is fine intensity to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that are a combination of power and concentration all wrapped in a youthfully austere, linear and serious finale. This is distinctly old school in style and while it’s not refined, the quality is evident. Worth checking out provided you intend to cellar it for at least a few years before popping the cork. (89-91)/2029+ ♥ Outstanding
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Champ Gain”: A more elegant and slightly airier nose reveals its combination of spice, apple, petrol, pretty floral wisps. The rich, generous and plump middle weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the moderately austere and bone-dry finale that displays fine length. Note that this well-made effort is sufficiently tightly wound to need at least a few years of keeping first. (90-92)/2030+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Morgeot “Clos de la Chapelle” (Monopole): (a new 4.48 ha monopole, of which 3.5 ha is planted to chardonnay; 2021 was the first vintage). This is still carrying vestiges of secondary fermentation aromas in the form of lactic and reductive nuances. More interesting are the very rich, indeed opulent and plush, medium-bodied flavors that also flash good power and density before culminating in a firm, balanced, bone-dry and muscular finish where a similar touch of rusticity slowly emerges. Patience advised here as well. (90-92)/2030+
VOUGEOT “Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot” (Monopole): (a monopole of de la Vougeraie). The expressive nose is slightly riper and not as elegant while also displaying a similar whiff of the exotic with its white peach and passion fruit-suffused aromas. The plump and equally concentrated flavors also are borderline thick and viscous while displaying impressive power on the rustic, attractively dry and lingering finish. This isn’t refined but it does offer fine quality in a package that could be approached young or held for a few years first. (90-92)/2028+
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE “Le Charlemagne”: (from parcels of .28 ha in En Charlemagne and .22 ha in Le Charlemagne; note that this could also be declared as Corton-Charlemagne). A distinctly cooler nose is comprised by notes of Granny Smith, spice, white flower and plenty of wet stone character. The rich and impressively scaled and concentrated big-bodied flavors exude an almost aggressive minerality on the clean, dry and markedly powerful finish. This beautifully long effort could use better depth but it has so much underlying material that more should almost certainly develop over time. Excellent. (92-94)/2032+
BATARD-MONTRACHET: (from a .38 ha holding divided into 3 parcels, two of which are on the Chassagne side and the remainder on the Puligny side of the divide). Generous but not dominant wood sets off intensely floral-suffused aromas of white peach, spice, acacia and citrus confit. The palate impression of the medium-bodied flavors is not as dense, mineral-driven or powerful but they are still impressive, especially in the context of having even better depth and persistence. This is a stylish and ageworthy Bâtard. (92-95)/2032+
BIENVENUES-BATARD-MONTRACHET: (from a .46 ha holding). Here the elegant nose is cooler and more restrained with a much more discreet application of wood framing the layered spicy aromas of honeysuckle, white peach and a variety of floral nuances. The notably more refined and beautifully textured flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a persistent, balanced and markedly dry finale that is unusually powerful. This BBM is terrific and classy, indeed it’s impressively poised for such a young wine. (93-95)/2032+
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET: (from a .15 ha holding). This is at once more floral and a bit riper as well with its liqueur-like nose of vaguely exotic scents, especially white peach, passion fruit, crushed fennel and jasmine tea. The mouthfeel of bigbodied yet gorgeously textured broad-shouldered flavors exude evident minerality, indeed this is akin to rolling rocks around the palate, all wrapped in a bone-dry, citrus and hugely long finish. This is an imposingly-scaled and overly powerful Chevalierthat should amply repay 10 to 15 years of keeping. In a word, superb. (93-96)/2034+
RED REVIEWS
Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de la Vougeraie (Prémeaux-Prissey)
PINOT NOIR “Terre de Famille”: (this is now 100% from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits and young vines everywhere in the Côte). An earthy, ripe and nicely fresh nose combines notes of mostly red and dark pinot fruit. The racy, delicious and solidly detailed middleweight flavors exude a refreshing salinity on the clean, inviting and sneaky long finish. This is very good for its level and worth a look. 87/2025+ ♥ Outstanding Top value
BEAUNE “Les Greves”: More evident wood influence is present on the beautifully layered aromas of red and dark cherry, forest floor, spice and pretty floral nuances. The rich, moderately concentrated and palate soaking medium-bodied flavors display focused power on the firm, serious and built-to-age finale. This is excellent and well-worth a look provided you intend to cellar it for at least 5 or so years first. (91-94)/2034+
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN: (from Craite Paille, La Justice, Murots, Pince Vin, La Justice and Grandes Rayes plus the villages portion of Bel-Air as well as Champ Perrier in Brochon). An overtly sauvage-inflected nose is comprised by notes of forest floor and smoky red and dark pinot fruit scents. The delicious and vibrant if only moderately dense middleweight flavors conclude in a markedly rustic, robust and youthfully austere finale that is persistent if slightly warm. This is very Gevrey in character and a wine that’s going to require at least some patience. (88-91)/2030+
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “Les Evocelles”: (from a huge holding of 3.15 ha of vines on the Brochon side). This is also agreeably airy with spicier aromas of pepper and floral-suffused black cherry and a vague hint of the sauvage. Like the La Justice the middleweight flavors possess a refined texture as well as notably more minerality that adds a sense of lift to the dusty, serious, compact and chiseled finish where a touch of austerity slowly emerges. This is excellent for its level and a wine that should repay up to a decade of keeping. (89-92)/2030+ ♥ Outstanding Top value
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “Bel Air”: (from vines that sit above Clos de Bèze). Like the Les Cras, this too is firmly reduced and revealing nothing on the nose at present. The racy and more refined, if slightly less concentrated, medium-bodied flavors also brim with minerality on the balanced, long and less overtly austere finale though there is a trace. Lovely. (91-93)/2032+ ♥ Outstanding
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY: (a blend of Argillières, Veroilles, Condemennes, Derrière le Four and Les Fremiers where ~20% of the blend is from the 1ers Les Baudes and Les Gruenchers). Moderately firm reduction pushes the underlying fruit to the background. More interesting are the rich, punchy and appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors that possess a more sophisticated texture that carries over the dusty and moderately austere finale that also comes up somewhat short. I again suspect that this will better harmonize once it is in bottle. (88-90)/2029+
VOUGEOT “Les Cras”: Firm reduction and oak toast are all that can be discerned at present. More interesting are the sleek, vibrant and moderately refined middleweight flavors that also flash plenty of minerality on the tautly muscular, linear and firmly austere finale. This is very good but the word Cistercian comes to mind so patience advised. (91-93)/2034+ ♥ Outstanding
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Morgeot “Clos de la Chapelle” (Monopole): (2021 was the first vintage; from a holding of .98 ha). Distinctly earthy liqueur-like aromas include those of poached plum, black cherry and a hint of the sauvage. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess a seductive mid-palate that contrasts moderately with the firm, mouthcoating, powerful and mildly rustic finish. This is sufficiently structured to repay up to a decade of keeping yet is a wine that could reasonably be approached after only 5-ish years of keeping. (90-92)/2030+
CORTON “Clos du Roi”: (from a .50 ha holding; 20% whole clusters). A wonderfully spicy broad-ranging nose features pure notes of wild red currant, leather, earth and a hint of wood influence. The delicious, vibrant and muscular medium weight plus flavors possess a beguiling mid-palate texture while exuding a subtle bead of minerality on the balanced, lingering and youthfully austere finale. This is excellent though a wine destined for long-term keeping. (92-95)/2037+
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN “Les Mazoyeres”: (from a .74 ha holding; 100% whole clusters). This is also markedly floral in character with its cool, airy and equally pure nose of the essence of red berries, forest floor, earth and similar hint of smoked game. The delicious, vibrant and somewhat denser medium-bodied flavors possess a super-sleek yet solidly powerful mouthfeel, all wrapped in a detailed, balanced and beautifully persistent finish. I very much like the fruit-acid-tannin balanced and this is so good that it could well be the finest Charmes of the 2022 vintage. (93-96)/2037+
CLOS de VOUGEOT: (from an exceptionally well positioned 1 ha parcel situated directly beneath Les Petits Musigny that is combined with another less well located .35 ha parcel close to the main road; 80% whole clusters). Moderate reduction again holds sway over the fruit at present. By contrast, there is excellent verve, volume and concentration to the large-scaled flavors that also flash evident power on the compact, serious and youthfully austere finish that is also a bit Cistercian. (92-94)/2034+
BONNES MARES: (from a .70 ha parcel of vines near the Morey border, 50% of which were planted in 1902; 100% whole clusters). There is ample earth character to the markedly floral-scented nose of various red berries, soft wood and a hint of smoked game. The beautifully textured, if not particularly concentrated middleweight flavors possess excellent vibrancy as well as focused power that seems to build on the beautifully long finish that really tightens up as it sits on the palate. This is a deceptive wine in that it seems a bit light but delivers superb flavor authority. (92-95)/2037+
MUSIGNY: (from two parcels totaling .21 ha; 100% whole clusters). An admirably subtle touch of wood serves as a backdrop for the exuberantly floral-infused and perfumed nose that offers up notes of exotic spice, poached plum and jasmine tea. The equally tautly muscular yet refined and lilting flavors are blessed with excellent punch and power while exhibiting a pungent minerality on the hugely long built-to-age finish. This refined effort is both stylish and very classy. (94-97)/2037+
Domaine Comte Armand ☝︎ Index
Check out or existing Comte Armand holdings + Explore the Domaine in Full Detail
Domaine des Epeneaux owes its name to the Clos des Epeneaux, a magnificent parcel of five hectares acquired by Nicolas Marey at the end of the 18th, beginning of the 19th century.
In 1828, the Clos des Epeneaux and related buildings, known as the Fief de Rancy, situated in the centre of the village of Pommard, became part of the heritage of the family of the Count Armand.
The estate remained as such until 1994 when it annexed a vineyard plot situated in the neighbouring village of Volnay, then later parcels from the village of Auxey-Duresses.
Today, Domaine des Epeneaux constitutes a total surface area of 9 hectares, and is more committed than ever to producing wines that are true expressions of their terroir.
In 2014, Benjamin Leroux, after 15 vintages of passionate devotion and pleasure, handed the reins over to Paul Zinetti who had worked with the Domaine since 2010.
The Style
The wines of Pommard have historically been some of the most tannic Pinots on the Côte. Under Benjamin Leroux’s leadership, they soften considerably. Something the current winemaking team has continued.
Zinetti prefers to do long maceration with gentle extraction, including keeping the wines on their skins at 28 to 30 degrees C. for 10 to 14 days after the fermentations have finished. He noted that the color and structure were slow to come in 2016, in part because the warm September weather (the estate started harvesting on September 23) made it difficult to conduct more than a three-day pre-fermentation cold soak. That was in direct contrast to 2015, when it was particularly important to avoid overextraction: he only needed to do a total of four punchdowns followed by only pumpovers for the ‘15s. Incidentally, beginning in 2014, Zinetti has been able to keep more whole berries with a new destemmer. As there is now more intracellular fermentation, he told me, “vinifying with stems is now a bit less important.” In another attempt to make somewhat gentler wines here, Zinetti began using a vertical press in 2015, which he says gives a “natural filtering of the grapes and softer, rounder tannins. We can press strongly but it’s never overdone.” Stephen Tanzer
The 2022 Vintage at Comte Armand
From Burghound
Régisseur Paul Zinetti commented that the 2022 growing season “was much less challenging than its 2021 counterpart as it was largely hot, dry and without any significant climatic incidents. With that said, there was just enough rain at the right moments to avoid much hydric stress, especially just before the harvest that really helped. We picked from the 24th of August in Volnay and the 27th for the Clos and brought in ripe, clean and reasonably abundant fruit. Yields were good at 36 hl/ha in the Clos and around 40 hl/ha for our other appellations. Potential alcohols were varied at between 13.3 and 14.3% and the Clos came in at 13.7%. The vinifications, where I chose to use no whole clusters [Zinetti used 10% whole clusters in 2020.], were easy and had no problems finishing. As to the style of 2022, it’s obviously riper with less acidity than 2021 but with better overall maturities and, at least to this point, better balance as well.”
Winemaking, from the Winery
Wines are the very image of the quality of fruit they derive from.
With utmost respect toward the grape, our harvest is 100% de-stemmed, keeping most of the berries whole, not crushed.
The winemaking process then goes through three distinct stages:
Pre-fermentation maceration period of 5-8 days at a temperature of 13-14°C
Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation between 5-10 days
Post-fermentation maceration of 3 to 15 days depending on the vintage
Most years, the total maceration period lasts about 4 weeks, which is relatively long for traditional winemaking in Burgundy.
We believe it is far more beneficial to give the extracted matter sufficient time to structure itself into something more stable and harmonious during vinification.
The moon, largely guiding and presiding over our rhythm of labour, has had a significant influence in both our vineyards and vat house since the 2001 vintage. For example, our 4-week maceration corresponds to a lunar cycle (that determines the fluids of the earth). The wines are produced according to a continuous 28-day period to best preserve the vibrational state of water in the grapes at the moment of the cutting.
If this notion seems far-fetched foremost amateurs, it allows us, notwithstanding the rigorous lunar calendar, to obtain more precise wines with better minerality. Never forget: wine is constituted principally of water.
Depending on the appellation and age of the vines, our wines will age18 to 24 months in barrels, with a percentage of new oak ranging from 0% for the Village appellations to 30% for the old vines of Clos des Epeneaux.
Drinking Comte Armand Wines, from the Winery
Most of our wines are neither fined nor filtered to preserve the utmost quality. However, in spite of microbiological controls throughout the ageing process, we strongly advise that they be kept around a temperature of 12°C.
Don’t hesitate to decant (in a closed decanter) young vintages at cellar temperature.
Generally speaking, we advise patience. Even though by decanting young wines will open up, they will in no way offer the richness one can expect from those that mature a minimum of 10 to 15 years.
RED
VOLNAY $163
AUXEY-DURESSES Rouge $116
AUXEY-DURESSES Rouge Premier Cru $190
VOLNAY “Les Fremiets” Premier Cru $343
POMMARD “Clos Epeneaux” Premier Cru $485
RED REVIEWS
Issue 94 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Comte Armand/Clos des Epeneaux (Pommard)
VOLNAY: (from Les Grands Champs and Les Famines). Here the expressive nose features a broader range of spice elements to the ripe and fresh aromas of cassis, black raspberry and violet scents. The notably finer but not denser medium-bodied flavors possess a lovely texture thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins shaping the youthfully austere finale. This velvet-textured effort should also be capable of repaying mid-term keeping. (89-91)/2028+ ♥ Outstanding
AUXEY-DURESSES Rouge: An exuberant pinot nose freely offers up its aromas of red and dark berries, plum and earth. The caressing and attractively textured medium weight flavors deliver good persistence on the dusty and mildly rustic finale. This wellmade effort is sufficiently firm to need 5 to 8 years of keeping. (88-91)/2028+
AUXEY-DURESSES Rouge Premier Cru: A slightly more deeply pitched nose reflects notes of dark currant, newly turned earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The richer bigger-bodied flavors possess both more volume and more evident minerality that adds a sense of lift to the firm, dusty, chalky and youthfully austere finale that it just a bit firmer. (89-92)/2029+
POMMARD “Clos Epeneaux”: (the 5+ ha Clos is composed of approximately 80% Petits Epenots and 20% Grands Epenots; the vine ages run from 18 to 80+ years of age and the wine is raised in ~30% new wood). Background hints of wood can be found on the ripe and nicely fresh aromas of poached plum, black cherry and violet. The round, velvety and rich medium weight plus flavors possess fine mid-palate concentration before culminating in a youthfully austere, serious, compact and sneaky long finale. This potentially outstanding effort could use better depth so at least some patience should prove beneficial and 12 to 15 years would be better still. (92-94)/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
Domaine Henri Gouges ☝︎ Index
Check out or existing Henri Gouges holdings + Explore the Domaine in Full Detail
Henri Gouges has a long continuous history in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Nuit-Saint-Georges rests on the Southern border of Vosne-Romanée.
The creation of Domaine Henri Gouges was the culmination of four hundred years of family grape farmers. Henri formed the Domaine in 1920, but was soon discouraged with the idea of selling the fruit to négociants. He envisioned a better quality wine from his new Domaine, and by 1933 was producing, bottling and selling directly. It has remained an undivided family property as the transition continued from Henri to his sons Marcel and Michel, to the next generation of Pierre and Christian who have recently turned it over to Gregory and Antoine Gouges.
Located in the heart of the “Cote d’Or” in the village of Nuits Saint Georges, they have grown to thirty-six acres of vineyards and a modern gravity flow winemaking facility where they produce Bourgogne, Village and Premier Cru wines.
Henri’s philosophy from the old maxim, “It is on the vines that great wines are made” has endured through each subsequent generation. Respecting the land, the environment, and the traditions of the region have been at the heart of their winemaking. Great care to nurture the soil and vines has lead to the highest quality fruit while controlling yields for optimum results.
The Style
The wines of Nuits tend not be as masculine as the wine of Gevrey-Chambertin or have the immediate opulence of Vosne.
In the 1990’s Gouges used to make quite chewy reds with whole-bunch and cold soak influence. Over time they have been looking to evolve their style, making finer wines. The videos in the offer show the rebuilt winery, the exceptionally gentle fruit handling, and, berry by berry sorting, with gravity used to move fruit.
The 2022 Vintage at Henri Gouges
From Burghound
Grégory Gouges described the 2022 growing season as one with “exceptionally hot and very dry conditions punctuated by hail in the southern part of Nuits. As such, our yields weren’t all that different from what they were in 2021, which is to say that we brought in yields in 2021 of around 25 hl/ha whereas in 2022 they were around 28 hl/ha. But they weren’t uniform as what we obtained in say Chaignots, which is situated in the northern part of Nuits, was more generous than in what we obtained in Les St. Georges, Les Vaucrains and Les Chênes Carteaux, which were off about 20%. The worst hit was our parcel in Les Crots, which took out about 70% while Pruliers and Clos des Porrets were off between 5 and 10%. So, putting aside the damage in Les Crots, while nothing was catastrophic, if you add everything up, 2022 was not an abundant vintage for us. We picked from the first of September and because the fruit was so clean, we could harvest very fast. Moreover, to be sure we could get the fruit in fast, we employed over 100 pickers! We did our usual vinification of between 12 to 14 days of cuvaison and the wines finished bone-dry from an analytical standpoint, which is always a good thing. As to the style of the 2022 reds, they’re ripe and firm but not really especially tannic as they have velvety textured. I think that they will age well as they’re well-balanced and yet they’re not so firm that they couldn’t be enjoyed young if that’s what a given client likes from a fruit profile.”
Where are Henri Gouges Vineyards?
WHITE
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “La Perriere” Premier Cru $315
RED
COTE de NUITS Village (Maison) $106
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES $173
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Chaignots” Premier Cru $234
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Clos des Porrets St Georges” Premier Cru $209 MAGNUM $438
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Pruliers” Premier Cru $315 MAGNUM $653
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Vaucrains” Premier Cru $418 MAGNUM $856
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Saint-Georges” Premier Cru $1,239 Magnum $2,535
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 95 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Henri Gouges (Nuits St. Georges)
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “La Perriere”: (from white pinot noir, which is better known as Pinot Gouges; the vines were planted in 1947 – the annual production is between 2000 and 2500 bottles). A more complex nose features notes of citrus confit, green apple and a floral top note along with just enough wood to notice. There is excellent concentration to the sappy and very rich yet focused medium weight flavors that possess a plush mouthfeel, all wrapped in a chalky, youthfully austere and lightly stony finale where a touch of warmth slowly emerges. This well-made effort should repay 2 to 3 years of keeping. 89/2026+
RED REVIEWS
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy – Domaine Henri Gouges (Nuits St. Georges)
Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Henri Gouges (Nuits St. Georges)
COTE de NUITS Village (Maison): A prominent note of herbal tea is present on the ripe aromas of both red and dark pinot fruit and forest floor nuances. The supple, round and relatively easy-going middleweight flavors conclude in a delicious and lingering finish that exhibits only a trace of rusticity. This could be enjoyed young or held for a few years first. (87-89)/2026+ Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES: Racked, and thus fully blended, to be bottled by the end of November. Mid purple, with a perfumed dark red fruit. Vigorous, well-balanced tannins, and good but not trenchant acidity. A fine long finish which remains fresh even though the fruit is clearly ripe. Very persistent. Drink from 2029-2037. 92 Points
A markedly earthier nose reveals its aromas of both red and dark berries and a whiff of sauvage character. The sleek, delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess a beguiling mid-palate texture while exhibiting very good length on the youthfully austere but only mildly rustic finale. This should drink well young but age well too over the mid-term. (88-91)/2032+ Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Chaignots”: In bottle. 35 hl/ha. Mid purple. The nose shows a certain amount of dark red fruit but is quite restrained. This is rather more robust in structure yet with a generous juicy fruit as well. Quite silky tannins behind. Fresh, almost mineral at the finish. Drink from 2030-2038. 93 Points
This is also sufficiently reduced as to push the underlying fruit to the background at present. Otherwise, there is again good richness and vibrancy to the notably finer medium weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the lingering finale where the only nit is a touch of warmth. This is also really quite pretty as it has that wonderful quality of inner mouth perfume. (89-91)/2032+ Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Clos des Porrets St Georges”: Racked, to bottle in December. 35 hl/ha. A darker purple, just a little oak showing on the nose alongside the dark raspberry fruit. The grain of tannin is very good, and ideally integrated, with just the right acidity as well. Drink from 2030-2038. 94 Point
This manages to be at once ripe yet cool with its layered combination of black cherry, plum and just turned earth and humus nuances. There is notably better density and volume to the bigger-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the firm, moderately austere and sneaky long finish. This by contrast is going to need at least a few years of keeping first. (90-92)/2032+ Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound ♥ Outstanding
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Pruliers”: Still in barrel. An intense deep purple. A little wood alongside the relatively heady fruit. Quite ripe, super succulent, plenty of plums, yet with some mineral tannins at the back which require longer elevage. The tannins are on the firmer side. Drink from 2031-2038. 94 Points
This is also ripe with an overtly sauvage character suffusing the mostly dark berry and earth nose. There is even better volume, density and power to the large-scaled and muscular flavors that conclude in a rustic, youthfully austere and ever-so-mildly warm finale. This is a classic Pruliers. (91-94)/2032+ Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound ♥ Outstanding
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Vaucrains”: (from a 1.08 ha mix of younger and older vines that average about 50+ years of age). As is the case with the Chênes Carteaux, there is a high-toned note of herbal present on the poached plum and sauvage-suffused aromas. I very much like the texture of the tautly muscular yet relatively fine middleweight flavors that exude a bead of minerality on the balanced, youthfully austere and impressively long finale. This is excellent. (91-94)/2032+ Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound ♥ Outstanding
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES “Les Saint-Georges”: Mid purple. This is almost quite raisiny but just keeps on the fresher side. At first more in supe ripe cherries, but the characteristic darker plum fruit comes up behind. Still some resolution of the tannins required but this is a substantial wine which is still sleeping. This should work out well unless the degree of ripeness dominates in later life. Drink from 2032-2040. 96 Points
This is spicier still with its broad-ranging nose of red and dark pinot fruit, violet and herbal tea, all of which is trimmed by soft wood influence. There is a bit more minerality present on the vibrant and lavishly rich medium weight flavors that possess excellent power that carries over to the firm and tautly muscular finish that is balanced and long plus it’s less austere than usual. Lovely. (91-94)/2032+ Issue 93 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound ♥ Outstanding
Domaine + Maison de Montille ☝︎ Index
Domaine de Montille is renowned as one of the finest domains in Burgundy. While the origin of the Domaine goes back to 1730 about, the modern history of the domaine started in 1947, when Hubert de Montille started to make the domaine’s wines at the age of 17, due to the death of his father. Four years later he took entire responsibility of the domaine.
As the domaine consisted of only 2.5 hectares at that time, he trained as a lawyer, and continued until his retirement to work both as a lawyer in Dijon and making the wines at the domaine. Hubert’s children, Etienne and Alix (was married to Jean-Marc Roulot) started helping in the domaine at young age, and Etienne had a second job (as an investment banker). But since 1990 Etienne started to take more responsibilities, and in 1995 became a co-manager of the domaine (although he continued working simultaneously in the bank until 2001). Under his lead the domaine’s reputation soared. Over the years by means of careful acquisitions, the domaine acquired more and more prime vineyards across the Côte d’Or, with the highlights being the acquisition of a fine parcel of Puligny Cailleret in 1993, of Corton Charlemange in 2004 and parts of the Thomas-Moillard estate in 2005 – including parcels in Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts, Clos de Vougeot and more.
In 2012, Etienne acquired the Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet, adding another 14 ha of prime vineyards (Chevalier Montrachet, Puligny Folatières, Meursault Poruzots, Saint Aubin “en Remilly”, Clos du Chateau de Puligny Montrachet, etc…) Today Domaine de Montille consists of 37 ha of vineyards, with respectively 23 ha under Domaine de Montille and 14 under Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet labels.
In 2003 Etienne started a negociant business with Alix nameds “les Deux Montilles” which specialize in white wines.
The biggest change applied by Etienne in the vineyards was the decision in 1995 to become organic, and in 2005 to entirely switch to biodynamic. While Hubert’s wines were famous to their ability to age gracefully but show austerity when young, Etienne’s approach is to make more accessible wines through a philosophy of better vineyards’ management, reduced yields, elimination of chemical fertilizers, careful attention to phenolic ripeness and picking date, and fine tuned extraction and wine making technics (Hubert was known to make piegeage 6 to eight times per day during fermentation, and consistently used 25-50% whole cluster berries for making the wines – Etienne reduced it to 2 times per day and uses stems between non to 100% depending to the vintage).
What remained unchanged over the years is the restrained use of new oak. The wines remain in barrels for 14-18 months and normally bottled without fining or filtration.
Etienne and Alix fine-tuned this historical great domaine and set it up as one of the finest domains of Burgundy.
The 2022 Vintage at Domaine + Maison de Montille
From Burghound
Etienne de Montille, owner of this large 37 ha domaine, and his chef de cave Brian Sieve, told me that 2022 “was a decidedly hot, and exceptionally dry, vintage that was lucky in the sense that there was just enough rain when we needed it. Even so, the rainfall wasn’t evenly distributed as there was definitely more water dropped in the Côte de Nuits than in the Côte de Beaune. The early season was exceptionally dry, in fact when we were plowing in April the tractors were kicking up dust clouds! The massive end of June storm was just what the viticultural doctor ordered and while it slammed Gevrey and Fixin, it was more moderate elsewhere. We chose to begin picking on the 26th of August and while the yields of the super-clean fruit were good, they were nowhere near what we obtained in 2023 even if they were much better than in 2021. This is to say that the chardonnay came in between 45 and 60 hl/ha with most wines averaging right at 50 hl/ha. By contrast, the pinot was more in the 38 to 45 hl/ha. Potential alcohols were pretty much the same in both colors at around 12.7 to 13.2%, which is perfect for the style that we wish to make. We used varying amounts of whole clusters, though most wines saw a minimum of 33% up to as high as 100%, for the vinifications where there were no hiccups in terms of the fermentations finishing. As to the wines, they have progressively improved month by month and what is remarkable given the relatively extreme growing season, the quality is just as good in white as it is in red. As to the comparative quality between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, we don’t really see much of a difference. Perhaps the Côte de Beaune reds are a bit more concentrated but other than that, it’s pretty much a tie, qualitatively speaking.” Note that the few wines that are in bottle were put there is December 2023 save for the Monthélie ‘Nature’, which was bottled in July. As the scores and wine commentaries confirm, there are some excellent wines in the range and the de Montille ’22s are warmly recommended.
WHITE
BOURGOGNE Blanc $78
BOURGOGNE “Le Clos du Chateau de Pulginy-Montrachet” Blanc $89
MEURSAULT “St Christophe” $236
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET du Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet $226
BEAUNE “Les Aigrots” Premier Cru $163
SAINT AUBIN “Les Remilly” Premier Cru $173
MEURSAULT “Les Poruzots” Premier Cru $315
MEURSAULT “Les Perrieres” Premier Cru $544
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Les Folatieres” Premier Cru $444
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Le Cailleret” Premier Cru $544 MAGNUM $1,155
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru $722 MAGNUM $1,525
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $2,045 MAGNUM $4,170
RED
BOURGOGNE Rouge $87
MONTHELIE Rouge $114
BEAUNE “Les Perrieres” Premier Cru $173
BEAUNE “Les Greves” Premier Cru $244 MAGNUM $566
POMMARD “Les Pezerolles” Premier Cru $416
POMMARD “Les Rugiens-Bas” Premier Cru $519
VOLNAY “En Champans” Premier Cru $418 MAGNUM $903
VOLNAY “Taillepieds” Premier Cru $448 MAGNUM $965
NUITS-ST-GEORGES “Aux Thorey” Premier Cru $288
CORTON CLOS du ROI Grand Cru $596 MAGNUM $1,259
CLOS VOUGEOT Grand Cru $773
VOSNE-ROMANEE “Aux Malconsorts” Premier Cru $1,182 MAGNUM $2,445
VOSNE-ROMANEE “Aux Malconsorts-Christiane” Premier Cru $1,920 MAGNUM $3,920
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 95 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de Montille (Volnay)
BOURGOGNE Blanc: An all but invisible application of wood sets off the pretty aromas of pear and apple compote, lemon confit and a floral top note. The sleek, delicious and nicely vibrant medium weight flavors also conclude in a dry, crisp and youthfully austere finale. This is also quite good for its level and worth a look. (86-89)/2025+ ♥ Outstanding
BOURGOGNE “Le Clos du Chateau de Pulginy-Montrachet” Blanc: A slightly riper nose combines notes of just sliced pear and apple along with background nuances of floral and zest trimmed in mildly more wood influence. The rich, delicious and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors possess just a bit better depth and persistence on the firmer finale. This too is very good, indeed it could pass for a lower-level villages wine. (87-89)/2027+ ♥ Outstanding Top value
MEURSAULT “St Christophe”: (from Les Narvaux, Casse Têtes and Petits Charrons). Cool and elegant aromas of lemon rind, white orchard fruit and petrol lead to moderately dense and nicely rich middleweight flavors that display good length on the balanced finale that is supported by citrus-tinged acidity. More depth would be a plus so I would recommend giving this a few years of cellar time first. Recommended provided you intend to hold it. (89-91)/2028+ ♥ Outstanding
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET du Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet: (this is 80% from declassified Les Chalumeaux with the remainder from Les Levrons and Boudrières). An overtly floral-suffused nose speaks of carnation, acacia and lilac with additional hints of citrus, pear and subtle oak. The succulent, delicious and quite generous medium weight flavors an abundance of sappy dry extract while displaying good length on the balanced and nicely dry finale. This too could use better depth so some patience is in order. (88-91)/2029+
BEAUNE “Les Aigrots”: (from a .50 ha holding). Ripe aromas include those of mineral reduction, apple and citrus confit. There is good volume to the generously proportioned middleweight flavors that possess acceptable verve on the bitter lemon inflected finish. This has the balance to age but could also easily be enjoyed young. (88-91)/2027+
SAINT AUBIN “Les Remilly”: (from a 1.8 ha holding of 60+ year old vines). Here the nose flirts with exoticism in the form of citrus confit and white peach along with pretty floral elements. There is fine volume to the enveloping and caressing if decidedly punchy medium-bodied flavors that flash evident minerality on the moderately firm, bone-dry and youthfully austere finale. Lovely and this too could be successfully cellared or enjoy after only 2 to 3 years. (90-92)/2029+
MEURSAULT “Les Poruzots”: Discreet wood influence sets off ripe and expressive aromas of petrol, acacia blossom and hazelnut. The bigger-bodied and more powerful medium weight flavors possess reasonably good mid-palate density while exhibiting a taut muscularity on the youthfully austere, firm and serious finale that also flirts with rusticity. This is classic Poruzots though one that should be approachable after only 5-ish years. (90-93)/2030+ ♥ Outstanding
MEURSAULT “Les Perrieres”: (from a .45 ha parcel). Pungent aromas of leesy reduction and wood render the nose tough to evaluate. By contrast, there is both excellent density and intensity to the well-detailed middleweight flavors that exude a prominent stoniness on the youthfully austere and more tightly wound finale. This is awkward but it seems promising nonetheless and my projected range offers the benefit of the doubt. (91-93)/2032+ ♥ Outstanding
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Les Folatieres”: (from Ez Folatières). As is often the case, there is a touch of exotic character in the form of pineapple and white peach along with hints of pear and oak toast. The vibrant, delicious and denser middleweight flavors also flash evident minerality on the firm, balanced and markedly more complex finale. Lovely. (91-94)/2030+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Le Cailleret”: (from a .85 ha parcel purchased in late 1992). Ripe if decidedly cool aromas are more classic in style with nuances of Granny Smith apple, mineral reduction, petrol and more spice wisps. The super-sleek, dense and gorgeously textured medium-bodied flavors are akin to rolling tiny rocks around the mouth on the balanced and impressively long finale. This is quite firm but not especially austere though it could use better depth. (92-94)/2032+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE: (from a 1.1ha holding in Pougets). Here too there is moderate oak influence surrounding the aromas of poached pear, white flowers, crushed fennel and a lovely spicy quality. There is outstanding volume and density to the markedly powerful mineral-driven flavors that deliver excellent persistence on the youthfully austere finale. Pougets generally gives a relatively elegant CC but this version is muscular and while not exactly robust, it isn’t especially refined. Even so, I very much like this and in particular for its evident development potential. (93-95)/2034+
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET: Here too there is a hint of mineral reduction lurking in the background of the distinctly cool aromas of Granny Smith apples, white flower, especially acacia, and a vague wisp of exotic tea, all of which is trimmed in moderate wood. There is superb intensity to the sappy medium weight plus flavors that possess a highly attractive sense of underlying tension on the focused, balanced and impressively long and powerful finale. This beauty is quite tightly wound at present and a wine that should amply repay extended keeping. (93-95)/2034+
RED REVIEWS
Issue 94 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de Montille (Volnay)
BOURGOGNE Rouge: (33% whole clusters). An exuberantly pinot-like nose of ripe red berries and soft earth nuances gives way to delicious and sleek if not especially dense flavors that possess an unusually refined mouthfeel before concluding in a solidly long finish where only a hint of rusticity slowly appears. To enjoy young. (86-89)/2026+ ♥ Outstanding
MONTHELIE Rouge: (made with no sulfur additions, hence the name Nature; 25% whole cluster). There is plenty of pungent earth and discreet sauvage nuances present on the mostly dark berry fruit nose. The delicious and vibrant middleweight flavors display acceptable length on the slightly gas and bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This is perfectly okay but i wouldn’t recommend cellaring it beyond 2 to 3 years. 87/2026+
BEAUNE “Les Greves”: (from a 1.26 ha holding; 50% whole clusters). This is aromatically more complex but also more reserved with its nose of warm earth, poached plum, violet and softly sauvage nuances. There is good power and punch, if only average density, to the muscular and lightly stony medium weight flavors that display excellent length on the more youthfully austere finale. Excellent development potential here. (91-94)/2032+
POMMARD “Les Pezerolles”: (from a 1.36 ha holding; ~35% whole clusters). Enough wood to notice is present on the attractively spicy nose featuring notes of red cherry, raspberry, plum, violet and a suggestion of soft earth. The succulent but super-sleek and well-detailed medium weight flavors exude a bracing minerality on the impressively long and youthfully austere finish. This is lovely and understated, indeed it’s very Pézerolles in character. (91-94)/2030+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
POMMARD “Les Rugiens-Bas”: (from a 1.02 ha holding; 100% whole clusters). Like the Taillepieds, the expressive nose is exuberantly floral in character with its array of wild red and dark currant, spice and jasmine tea-scented aromas. The rich, elegant and energetic medium-bodied flavors also possess a super-sleek mouthfeel while delivering ample punch on the palate drenching finish that flashes first-rate depth and persistence. This is also excellent and in particular I like how the finish really fans out as it sits on the palate. Patience strongly suggested. (92-95)/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
VOLNAY “En Champans”: (from a .97 ha holding; 35% whole clusters). A slightly riper nose is comprised by notes of violet, various dark berries and a more discreet hint of warm earth. The sleek, delicious and relatively fine middleweight details display a firm bead of minerality, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and lingering finish that is supported by bright acidity and firm tannins. (91-93)/2032+ ♥ Outstanding
VOLNAY “Taillepieds”: (from a 1.51 ha holding of ~80-year-old vines; 100% whole clusters). Discreet wood can be found on the equally floral-suffused aromas of ripe yet cool red berries, kirsch and rose petal. The wonderfully sleek, detailed and overtly mineral-driven medium weight flavors are akin to rolling a small pebble around in the mouth on the bitter pit fruit-inflected finish that goes on and on. I very much like the sophisticated texture and the excellent development potential. (92-95)/2034+ ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
NUITS-ST-GEORGES “Aux Thorey”: (from a .73 ha holding; 50% whole clusters). Once again there is plenty of floral influence on the perfumed essence of cool red berry, spice and tea scents. The brilliantly textured medium weight flavors also brim with minerality that adds lift to the youthfully austere, focused and impressively persistent finish. This is textbook Aux Thorey with its refined, even delicate, mouthfeel. In a word, lovely. (91-94)/2032+
CORTON CLOS du ROI: (from .84 ha holding of ~75+ year old vines; 40% whole clusters). A completely different aromatic profile is proffered by the nose of intensely sauvage, smoky dark currant and plum. The delicious and tension-filled medium-bodied flavors possess good power on the serious and lingering finish that is borderline rustic. Excellent development potential here. (92-95)/2034+
CLOS VOUGEOT: (from a .29 ha holding in Les Dix Journaux and Montiotes Basses; 35% whole clusters). Restrained aromas are comprised by notes of spiced plum, earth, red cherry, kirsch and newly turned earth. Once again the mouthfeel of the middleweight plus flavors that display excellent length on the youthfully austere finish where hints of wood and rusticity progressively emerge. (92-94)/2034+
VOSNE-ROMANEE “Aux Malconsorts”: (from a .97 ha holding; 80% whole clusters). At the risk of sounding like a broken record, once again the nose is overtly floral in character with its exuberantly spicy nose of various dark berries, soy, exotic tea and sandalwood. The sleek, intense and delineated flavors are at once refined yet powerful with a taut muscularity becoming more apparent on the dusty, youthfully austere and stony finish that is compact and very serious. Patience. (93-95)/2034+ ♥ Don’t miss! Outstanding
VOSNE-ROMANEE “Aux Malconsorts-Christiane”: (from a .48 ha parcel; 90% whole clusters). The expressive nose is aromatically similar to the regular cuvée if perhaps even a bit more floral. The sleek, powerful and concentrated larger-scaled flavors possess a sophisticated mouthfeel while exhibiting outstanding persistence on the overtly austere, compact and altogether serious finish. This is a ‘wow’ wine. (93-96)/2034+ ♥ Outstanding
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