Size & Type
Other
$85
Tasting this wine near a year after Suckling and Agata, it has clearly relaxed and has begun to more fully express its youthful self. This is a great comparison of two different sites showing their different, and, equally enjoyable personalities.
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Feudo di Mezzo is the largest cru in the appellation, a homogenous character, but with clear qualitative variations – much like one could say of Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy. From the best parcels – such as our “Quadro delle Rose” – it betrays a dusky character, autumnal tones in its cedary-spicy bouquet. Always the fist to be harvested, Feudo di Mezzo is also always the one readiest to open up and generously deliver itself. Of all crus it is supremely silky, its tannins suave, its bouquet darkly debonair. I love it as it ages effortlessly, its crepuscular nature picking up light as it ripens. Poultry, pork, game, lasagne, braised meats.
Name: Etna Rosso D.O.C.
Area of production: Township of Castiglione di Sicilia.
Varietals: Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio.
Vineyard extension: 1,5 hectares.
Production per hectare: Less than 5 Tons.
Soil: Black volcanic ash, basaltic pebbles.
Exposure: Northern.
Age of vines: 50-80 years old.
Annual production: 7.500 bottles.
Apparently lightening never strikes twice. In Etna, with Passopiscaro and Terre Nere it has done so in emphatic style.
Typically wines made from the Nerello’s exude an entrancing perfume with a delicacy, elegance, and, sophistication that carries through to the palate. With vineyards from 400-1000m in elevation the lower lying vineyards tend to yield bolder styles, while the higher sites offer greater restraint. Texturally the tannins often remind of a more supple Barolo.
Wines of Nerello Mascelese and Nerello Cappuccio have been called the Barolo of the South by some, Italy’s Burgundy by others. I prefer to call them, simply, great wines from Etna.
Whilst Nerello Mascelese’s enormous bunches, with their big berries, result in wines of a pale appearance, there is nothing insignificant about their aromas, flavours, and, textures.
Terre Nere’s wines have a balance and purity that goes head to head with and in some cases exceeds Passopisciaro. Put it this way, I was sold on the nose alone of the single vineyards.
All of the elements of success were there from the beginning, exceptional sites from 600m-1000m above sea level on the slopes of Mount Etna, vines of 50-140 years of age, a very clever conductor, ‘Barolo Boy’, Marco de Grazia, the desire to achieve excellence, and, the cash to make it happen.
While you might think vineyard in Sicily would be hot, their elevation combined with planting on cooler North facing slopes can make it challenging to ripen fruit on the highest sites in a cool year.
Although de Grazia was one of the architects of the modern style of Barolo, the Terre Nere wines show no signs of those modern, often over-oaked wines, lacking harmony. Poise and restraint being the norm. The larger format oak in the winery, both botte and puncheons are clear sign that sophistication is the intent.
Perfectly articulated by Marco de Grazia himself:
“Tenuta delle Terre Nere is the fruit of over 30 years of passion and work in the world of fine wine.
And an extraordinary location, as well – this “island within an island” that is the Etna – that my brother and I chose. And that, I sometimes believe, actually chose us. A place where nature is prodigal but also severe. And here I try with all my heart to express as purely as possible the refined and multifaceted microcosm of this ancient volcanic land. With respect, care and hard farm work, always in organic balance.
The estate’s philosophy is simple. Given an extreme climate, in order to obtain the best and most consistent ripening, our attention must focus on vineyard management. The finest workmanship in all aspects of viticulture is the first thing that sets us apart. And what enables us, bringing home exceptionally fine grapes, not to be invasive in our cellar work. A work best described as aimed above all at expressing the character of our varieties in their specific terroir.
A great team, a delicate hand and a heightened sensibility, as well. And our ideals, that drive us to give the best of ourselves in quest, not of perfection, but of the ideal bond between what nature gives us and that which our sensitivity, experience and imagination suggests.
All this sets us apart.”
Scorched earth, flint, grilled herb and red-berry aromas follow over to the palate along with ripe cherry, raspberry compote and baking spice. Tight fine-grained tannins provide the framework while a licorice note lingers on the finish. Drink 2020–2030.
Tasting this wine near a year after Suckling and Agata, it has clearly relaxed and is has begun to more fully express it's youthful self. While the wine is more powerful, and, the fruit fuller than the Santo Spirito, the Feudo di Mezzo retains a beautiful balance, harmony, and, textured, which is an edge more robust. This is a great comparison of two different sites showing their different, and, equally enjoyable personalities.
Fantastic aromas of flowers, dark berries and cherries follow through to a full body, round and velvety tannins and a flavorful finish. Needs a year or to two soften the tannins. Drink in 2020.
Bright red. Very perfumed nose of red cherry, raspberry jam, cinnamon, nutmeg and minerals complicated by tar and shoe polish. Clean, fresh and juicy, but with a sultry quality to the mineral but also ripe red berry and cherry flavors. Clean and fresh on the long, stoney finish. A knockout Santo Spirito that combines size and luscious sweetness like no other Etna Rosso from Terre Nere this year, but it doesn’t quite have the depth or complexity of the best wines from the estate this year.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Tenuta delle Terre Nere Winery, Randazzo, Province of Catania, Italy
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