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$120
It was funny that drinking a 2016 Bourgogne from him took me to the textures and energy we sought at Yarra Yering. It goes to show just how far Aussie Chardonnay has come and how difficult it can be to distinguish between the two.
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I met Pierre-Yves when back in 1999 whilst doing vintage at Domaine Bernard-Moreau. Just another of the down to earth lads from the region.
It was funny that drinking a 2016 Bourgogne from him took me to the textures and energy we sought at Yarra Yering. It goes to show just how far Aussie Chardonnay has come and how difficult it can be to distinguish between the two.
The texture of the PYCM wines is outstanding matching the core of fruit. These are exceptional Chardonnays.
“The quality Colin is achieving is starting to put him in an elite group and I suspect he will continue to improve. If so, Colin may soon rival for the best micro negociant in Burgundy specializing in whites.”
Burghound, July 2009
Established as one of the young rising stars of Burgundy, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey in 2005 left his family Domaine, Marc Colin, where he gained a solid reputation for his outstanding white wines. Pierre-Yves took control of a share of the family vineyards (Domaine Marc Colin) from 2006 vintage. His first vintages have been made from vineyards and growers that he works closely with buying the wine as must and aging the wines in barrels which he has supplied. If the resulting wines meet his standards the barrels of wine purchased are then matured in his own cold cellar below his house in Chassagne Montrachet.
These wines are produced with natural yeasts, no lees stirring and no filtration that are built to age classically up to 10 years or more.Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is based in the wine appellation of Chassagne-Montrachet in Burgundy. The eldest son of Marc Colin, Pierre-Yves worked at the family domaine from 1994 to 2005. Meanwhile, with his wife Caroline (née Morey) he had established a négociant business in 2001 under the name Colin-Morey. After the 2005 harvest he left the family domaine, taking with him his six-hectare share of the vineyards, which now form part of the Colin-Morey label.
Pierre-Yves’s techniques have evolved since leaving the family domaine, in part in response to the problem of premature oxidation. There is no more battonage and the cellar is no longer heated to encourage the malolactic fermentation.
The wines are kept in barrel longer (the barrels are from François Frères and Chassin, with about one third new wood, including 350-litre casks), the St-Aubins being bottled before the next harvest but the remainder being kept on lees for up to 18 months. The bottles are sealed with wax on top of corks which have not been treated with peroxide.
His own vineyards are mostly to be found in the wine appellation of St-Aubin, including premiers crus Chatèniere, Champlots and Remilly, and Chassagne-Montrachet: village Ancegnières and premiers crus Chenevottes and Caillerets.
However, the full range of wines from purchased grapes covers wines from Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and the grand crus as well, including very fine Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and weightier Bâtard-Montrachet. More recently he has starting making wine from Pernand-Vergelesses, sitting adjacent to Aloxe-Corton. The Grand Cru’s of Corton and Corton-Charlemagne cross the border of the two with parcels in both appellations.
Ref: Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy – The Book
The whites of Saint-Aubin tend to be supple without the same opulence as the white of Chassagne or linearity of those from Puligny.
Saint-Aubin branches off from Chassagne-Montrachet. Containing some 20 Premier Cru’s producing 75% white and 25% red.
Produces like Lamy and Pierre-Yves-Collin-Morey are working hard to raise the perception of the village which produces fantastic wines.
In this video the villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet are explored. Towards the end, you’ll note the discussion of the soils in the south part of Chassagne-Montrachet being the same as parts of the Côte de Nuits.
Reports from Olivier Lamy. He did suffer losses to the frosts that ravaged the Côte de Beaune, but it was not as big a disaster for this producer as it was for some, and we have an excellent allocation all things considered. The whites have serious depth yet, as always at this address, tremendous tension, minerality and racy freshness. They have the intensity of 2014, but probably more flesh. They will benefit from two to five years to develop, or even six months just to settle down, although they will wow from the get-go.
Colin has elected to produce a 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Cuvée Marguerite, a blend of the lieux-dits En Créot, Les Combes and Perrières that debuted after the 2016 frost. Exhibiting aromas of pear, fresh mint, white flowers and blanched almond, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, with tangy acids and a chalky finish. Pierre-Yves Colin described the 2017 vintage as "pure and transparent," with the wines nicely defined by their terroirs. They are, he adds, "more charming than I imagined—less 'cold' in style." Old vines, he says, produced notably more interesting musts than younger plantings, an observation borne out along the Côte. Colin began picking early, on August 28, as usual privileging freshness; though I wonder if a successful experiment with picking his Corton-Charlemagne a little later than had been his habit suggests that the stylistic pendulum may be about to subtly swing at this address? In any case, he has produced a successful range, true to the strong house style, though showing comparatively little overt reduction when I visited after the harvest. As ever, no distinction is made on the labels between domaine and négociant wines, and Colin is increasingly taking responsibility for farming the parcels from which he purchases fruit. (WK) (1/2019)
(one-third each Les Combes, en Créot and Les Perrières, all harvested after the rain; aging entirely in 350-liter barrels, 25% new): Perfumed, precise aromas and flavors of white peach, flowers and crushed stone. The palate offers lovely concentration and spice character as well as a light touch, with harmonious lemony acidity contributing to the impression of inner-mouth perfume. This very nicely balanced wine finishes with good length and grip. Colin first made this blend in 2016 owing to the tiny quantities of fruit produced by these three parcels, naming the wine after his paternal grandmother, who died a few days before the frost of 2016. As he found the blend to be more than the sum of its parts, he decided to continue producing it in subsequent vintages.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet, France
Riesling | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Riesling | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Fiano | South Australia, Australia
Cortese | Piedmont, Italy
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