Champagne Vouette et Sorbée Blanc d’Argile Blanc de Blancs (Base 2020) NV

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Within the cold, west-facing, Kimmeridgian limestone-rich lieu-dit of Biaunes, there is a small plot of Chardonnay that Gautherot planted wild—that is, without preparing the soils and among native vegetation (a totally crazy idea). The Côte des Bar is overwhelmingly planted to Pinot Noir, but in 2000, Gautherot chose Chardonnay. He used mass-selection cuttings from Anselme Selosse’s vines (in Avize) and Vincent Dauvissat’s Valmur Grand Cru vineyard. This plot has become the base of what Antonio Galloni calls “one of the most beautiful and distinctive wines in Champagne”. As of 2020, the cuvée also includes fruit from the Fonnet vineyard as well as Vouette itself, which was previously planted to Pinot Noir before replanting to Chardonnay several years ago.

About Champagne Vouette et Sorbée

Bertrand Gautherot is unquestionably one of the most iconic growers in Champagne. Parting ways with his local co-op due to his decision to embrace organics in 1993 (certified biodynamic since 1998), Bertrand Gautherot’s approach has always been at the cutting edge for his region.

Located in the hamlet of Buxières-sur-Arce, in the Aube’s Côte des Bar, Gautherot’s Estate is named after two of his key lieux-dits: Vouette and Sorbée. The vineyards lie closer to Chablis than to Épernay, both in distance and geology, with soils dominated by the same Kimmeridgian limestone for which Chablis is famed.

All his wines come from a single harvest (noted by the ‘R’ and number on the back label), with the exception of the Fidèle cuvée, which sees a small addition of between five and 10% reserve wine from a réserve perpétuelle started in 2001. Even this wine would be eligible to be called a vintage wine in any other region. These are all complex, textural, yet incredibly mineral wines made with low (or no) sulphur and without a drop of dosage. They are wines that result from low-yielding hillside vineyards, from intense, ripe fruit, from limestone-rich soils, and from a farmer whose heart lies in his vineyards.

A visit to Buxières-sur-Arce is always a lot of fun and yet so thought-provoking. It’s a Domaine that is always experimenting and pushing boundaries and Bertrand has a level of passion, single-mindedness and determinism that is seemingly insatiable.

A visit here is always a lot of fun and yet so thought-provoking. It’s a Domaine that is always experimenting and pushing boundaries and Bertrand has a level of passion, single-mindedness and determinism that is seemingly insatiable. Despite several years with terribly low yields (the 2021 harvest was down 80%, largely due to frost), Bertrand is full of energy and enthusiasm about what the future holds. Importantly, alongside the likes of Agrapart, Egly-Ouriet, Larmandier-Bernier and Selosse, this is another great grower where the next generation has returned. Bertrand now has his daughter Héloïse working with him, bringing fresh energy and new ideas. There is also so much innovation happening here (even some that we cannot speak about!) that it’s hard to keep up.

In the Vineyard

Aside from innovations in the vineyard and cellar and the quality of the wine, this is also a must-visit address for anyone wishing to think more deeply about biodynamics. In fact, there’s now a beautiful documentary on Vouette et Sorbée and biodynamics by Élie Séonnet called Le Champagne a rendez-vous avec la Lune, available to rent on Vimeo On Demand, for those who would like greater insight into this producer. All the better if you gave a glass or two of Vouette et Sorbée at hand.

In the Winery

The winemaking here abhors any kind of manipulation in the cellar. Gautherot uses the traditional Coquard press, and the juice is transferred into oak or amphorae via gravity rather than being pumped. Primary fermentations are always carried out with natural yeasts and riddling and disgorgement are all done entirely by hand. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration and without dosage. The results are some of Champagne’s most original and complex wines: wines of distinctive personality and energy.

Blanc d’Argile

Indigenous yeasts ferment the wine in used 500- and 600-litre barrels, with a small portion fermented and raised in Georgian amphora (see Textures). As with Fidèle, this wine spends roughly 15 to 18 months in bottle on lees before being disgorged by hand with zero dosage. For the record, the Biaunes vines yield only 15 to 20 hl/ha each year, which is key to the depth and mineral intensity on offer. Were it not for bubbles, you could be drinking a great Grand Cru Chablis.

Where in the World is Champagne Vouette et Sorbée?

Vouette et Sorbée is based in the southern most regions of Champagne, the Côte des Bar in the village of Buxières-sur-Arce.

The map below shows the main sub-regions of Champagne

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From left to right Champagne vineyards by Soil Type, Aspect and Dominant Varietal

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Soil Types

Vineyard Aspect

Map showing dominant varieties planted in Champagne