Albino Rocca ‘Ronchi’ Barbaresco 2021

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

I was deeply impressed with the 2021 Barbarescos at Albino Rocca. The wines are aromatic, vibrant and bristling with site character. Carlo Castellengo gave the 2021s three to four weeks on the skins. A few of the wines see submerged cap maceration, including the new Riserva Ronchi and the Angelo (which has no new release this year)—the wines age for just under two years in cask prior to bottling. More than anything else, these wines are defined by superb purity.

Anotnio Galloni, Vinous

From the Winery

Our Barbaresco Ronchi is aged 20 months in 20-hectoliter Austrian and German oak barrels.
Barbaresco Riserva Ronchi is also produced from this vineyard with a very limited production and is made exclusively in the best years.

This famous, limestone-rich, Barbaresco cru runs along the southern belt of the appellation, near the town itself. The Rocca cellars are located just above this southeast-facing vineyard, one of the reasons the site has become synonymous with the name Albino Rocca. The Ronchi is also the oldest and largest holding of the Estate, extending to almost six hectares (three in Nebbiolo)–roughly a third of the total area of the cru. The Rocca’s Nebbiolo vines here are now aged between 50 and 70 years and the wines they are producing is something to behold. The quality makes sense–this is a vineyard that offers an ideal combination of vine age, deep clay and limestone soils and superb exposure (all southeast). It’s no surprise that it consistently produces some of the greatest wines of Barbaresco; wildly aromatic wines, rich in complexity and structure.

About Albino Rocca

It’s easy to forget that Nebbiolo, produced from great sites and mature vines can be a wickedly seductive wine to drink young. The late Angelo Rocca was a master at reminding us of this fact. His wines – and now those of this daughters – are plump, textural, seductive Barbaresco’s that are surprisingly forward yet clearly have the stuffing and powdery tannins to age. All of the Rocca wines are from Estate vineyards and all are grown 100 percent within the boundaries of the Barbaresco region (even the Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo d’Alba and Moscato!).

When Angelo Rocca tragically passed away in 2012 in a light plane accident, Barbaresco lost one of its most distinguished growers. It also lost a wonderful person and a deeply respected member of the Piemontese community. Rocca was a grower operating at the peak of his powers and producing the most exciting, terroir-intense wines of his career. His three daughters (Daniela, Monica and Paola) along with Angelo’s cellarmaster (and son-in-law) Carlo are determined to continue this legacy and so far they have not missed a beat.

The Rocca’s efforts to continually improve the quality of all of their Estate’s wines, has resulted in some superb offerings over the last few vintages. All of the wines are aged in large, neutral botti and remain contemporary in the sense that they are ripe, pure and meticulously made, but instead of any distracting new oak character you have solely the wonderful dark cherry, floral and savoury structured personality of Nebbiolo in all its Piemontese glory. Albino Rocca’s wines are not only outstanding examples of Barbaresco writ large, they are also very fairly priced.

“Paola, Monica and Daniela Rocca have unhesitatingly taken up the winemaking and moral legacy of their father Angelo following since his untimely death in 2012. They now continue with the story that won many fans thanks to above all to the happy combination of courteous affability permeating the Ronchi farm and the appealing, well-measured pace of the Estate’s Barbarescos.” Gambero Rosso 2015

“Albino Rocca is one of the most intriguing estates in Barbaresco right now.” Antonio Galloni, vinous.com

In the Vineyard

We didn’t discuss much about what’s happening in the vineyards. The pic’s of their vines look pretty. Anyways, what’s in the glass tastes delicious!

In the Winery

They keep it really simple. There’s been a shift toward oak Tine (open fermenters) from stainless. They’ve always used large oak botti for maturation from Stockinger. Occasionally when a new one is introduced and little oak lift may be evident, as if the case with the Cottà from 2016. Macertions show thought and good touch making wines with excellent mouthfeel.

Where in the World is Albino Rocca

Albino Rocca’s Barbaresco Vineyards are in the Crus of Montersino in the far South, Ovello on the north resting on the banks of the Tanaro, in Ronchi facing the cooler South East adjacent to Rabaja Bas, and, Cotta facing South West opposite Ronchi and Rabaja. They also have holdings in the Roero for their Langhe Nebbiolo and Alba right next to Barbaresco for their Nebbiolo d’Alba.