Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Claudio Mariotto ‘Cavallina’ Derthona Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Absolutely delicious, beautiful weighting and flow, lovely acid profile & florals, refreshing just a lick of phenolics to add play to the texture. So much energy and direction. A little bit of soft green leafy herb. Spice, nicely layered lees. Harmonious. Complete. Citrus oils, lemon and much more. The fuller and richer of the two as usual.
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Claudio Mariotto ‘Cavallina’ Derthona Timorasso 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The 2020 Cavallina is a fascinating iteration. Epic tension and minerality see it super tightly wound and taking time to resolve and build generosity. I initially tasted this over a year ago and saw the epic potential waiting for us. 6 months later it was only just starting to settle. It's one to be patient with. While the 2021 is a delicious drink straight out of the gate the 2020 is going to need time. It has a wonderful funk that I associate with low pH wines that have seen time on lees. All
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Gorelli Rosso di Montalcino 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

Speller is on the money, this is still closed (April 2023). Builds with time in the glass, the fruit leans toward the fine Burgundian style. The tannins are just a little edgy, as with the Brunello, as the new Botti season future vintages should see further refinement to the texture.  This clearly sits in between the Rosso & Brunello level. I like the cranberry descriptor and would add a musk and rose top note. A few years in bottle should see the tannins resolve fully and mid-palate weight
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Ansitz Waldgries Südtiroler Weissburgunder Riserva ‘ITOS’ 2020

Weissburgunder | Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

What he achieves by a combo of half vinified in stainless steel and half the ferments in barrel, is the ideal melding of the racy with the complex and textured.A pretty flash Weissburgunder AKA Pinot Bianco! Excellent drinking. A layer of that shroomy, wet wool earthy funk I often see, and enjoy in high acid whites. White flowers perfume. Ripe white grapefruit. Counterpointed with a little stonefruit, fresh and zippy. Chalky acid with a dusting of phenolics adds cleansing grip. Superb long
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Bruno Giacosa Spumante 2019

Pinot Noir | Lombardy, Italy

Bruna Giacosa persists with her father’s interest in producing a very small batch sparkling wine in most good vintages, a Blanc de Noirs made in methode Champenois and aged on lees for between 2-3 years. Though a curio even in the storied history of Giacosa, it is a wine steeped in historical significance for the winery. An avid lover of the great house Champagnes, Giacosa sought to create his own ‘metodo classico’ that was distinctly Italian stylistically. In the early 1980s, the modern
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Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! This is where the largest strides have been made. We’ve seen both of the Grumello Riservas priced at the same point now. Whatever is happening in the vineyard or winery to make that happen is translating into this Superiore (ArPePe makes either Superiores or Riservas in
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Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Sassella Stella Retica 2019
🇮🇹Bravo Isabella!👏🏻
As with the 2015 & 2017 I found myself not really wanting to write tasting notes simply wanting to devour the glass!Sassella typically produces the most elegant wines of the three communes with Inferno next and Grumello the boldest.Another superb Sassella. Smoking wine. Everything is here and in all the right places. Elegance and sophistication caressing long fine tannins. Seamless harmony. Energy and vitality in a very complete wine. Line and length with a long vertical palate. A be
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Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Once again proving PdB's Barbaresco is a great benchmark!The 2020 still so youthful unfurls in the glass with time. Perfumed, flowing into generous yet retrained red fruits. Energy with length and layered tanin. Beautifully weighted through the palate. Slatey, mineral with graphite fine tannins. A little spice and a faint resinous line adding to the intrigue. A complete wine that screams Barbaresco.The 2020 Barbaresco boasts an ample set of aromas with wild cherry, blue flower, sweet
Original price was: $120.Current price is: $108.
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Cascina Roccalini Barbaresco 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

When a young winery pop's up a little leg work is required to suss them out. Obviously, the most important thing is what's in the glass. Let's add the other bits of the equation though. The vineyards are right next to Olek Bondonio's joint, they used to supply their Neb to Dante Scaglione at Bruno Giacosa for ten years, and Dante helped them start their own venture. BOOM!The 2019 Barbaresco is playful expression, strawberries and cream lift from the glass. The label is a visual descriptor of
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Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Sassella Stella Retica 2022
🇮🇹Bravo Isabella!👏🏻
As with the 2015, 2017 & 2019 I found myself not really wanting to write tasting notes simply wanting to devour the glass!Sassella typically produces the most elegant wines of the three communes with Inferno next and Grumello the boldest.Sassella has done it again! Perfume and intensity on the nose lovely flowers. Refined and more linear with an additional layer of tannins and textural intrigue. Super fine acid. It’ll be lovely to see this with a couple more years as it will relax
$109
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Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! This is where the largest strides have been made. We’ve seen both of the Grumello Riservas priced at the same point now. Whatever is happening in the vineyard or winery to make that happen is translating into this Superiore (ArPePe makes either Superiores or Riservas in
$109
$104ea in any 3+
$99ea in any 6+
Calabretta Little A & Butterfly 2016
🦋🦋🦋

Calabretta Little A & Butterfly 2016

Nerello Mascalese | Sicily, Etna

Such personality and intrigue A fine floral perfume lifts from the glass. Lovely tannins, texture, and, the hallmark Calabretta core of fruit.
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