Terre Nere ‘Le Vigne Niche Montalto’ Etna Bianco 2022

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

From Marco

“Firmly established on the northern slopes of Etna, for many years I have also explored most of the other slopes – buying grapes, making grapes for colleagues, measuring altitudes, studying geological features, verifying historical boundaries. I have carefully probed not only my northern territories, but also the eastern and southern ones, trying to estimate their qualities and their limits. At very high altitudes on the southern side I am convinced that I have found an area where the Carricante thrives particularly well.

Having vinified grapes from that area for six years on an experimental level, and certain of their exceptional grace, I was very lucky to be offered a tiny vineyard from which my favorite white grapes came. The area is known as Montalto, although it is not classified as a Contrada. And here, at 950 meters, in the most perfect and constantly breezy aspect, lies my small and very old vineyard. And here one finds that freshness of climate which perfectly compensates for the full southern exposure. The first vintage produced is 2019 – a pearl”. Marco de Grazia

White wines characterized by a voluptuous softness and spicy and “warm” aromas, underlined by a full alcoholic vigor and a balanced freshness resulting from the combination of full exposure at noon and a very high altitude.

Appellation: Etna Bianco D.O.C.
Production area: Montalto district, Biancavilla municipality (Catania)
Grapes: 100% Carricante
Vineyard area: 2 hectares
Production: 6 tons per hectare.
Soil: volcanic, deep, mainly volcanic ash, loose with the presence of small stones.
Exposure: southern slope of Etna, from 900 to 950 meters above sea level
Age of the vineyards: from 60 to 90 years.

The 2022 Vintage at Terre Nere

Winter was warm and very long with average rainfall that was mostly concentrated close to spring. Budding was late but spring was dry and stable with rain only in May and increased temperatures that compensated for the late budding and brought growth back in line. Significant drought began in early June and very hot weather caused hydric stress, mainly in young vineyards where vine loss was widespread. July had much lower temperatures but the dry continued.

Good rainfall occurred in late August, but crops were very varied. Sept was warm and dry and Oct also warm but not too warm, just right – this was the month that restored balance.

Whites were earlier ripening and were full and lofty flavour wise, with pronounced acidity, amplified aromatics, and very high quality.

About Terre Nere

Apparently lightening never strikes twice. In Etna, with Passopiscaro and Terre Nere it has done so in emphatic style.

After devouring the 2015 Cru’s I’m salavating at the thought of ripping the lid of the 2016’s. These, Nerello Mascalese, dominant wines with a splash of Nerello Cappuccio exude an entrancing perfume with a delicacy, elegance, and, sophistication that carries through to the palate. With vineyards from 400-1000m in elevation the lower lying vineyards tend to yield bolder styles, while the higher sites offer greater restraint. Texturally the tannins often remind of a more supple Barolo.

Wines of Nerello Mascelese and Nerello Cappuccio have been called the Barolo of the South by some, Italy’s Burgundy by others. I prefer to call them, simply, great wines from Etna.

Whilst Nerello Mascelese’s enormous bunches, with there big berries, result in wines of a pale appearance, there is nothing insignificant about their aromas, flavours, and, textures.

Terre Nere’s wines have a balance and purity that goes head to head with and in some cases exceeds Passopisciaro. Put it this way, I was sold on the nose alone of the single vineyards.

All of the elements of success were there from the beginning, exceptional sites from 600m-1000m above sea level on the slopes of Mount Etna, vines of 50-140 years of age, a very clever conductor, ‘Barolo Boy’, Marco de Grazia, the desire to achieve excellence, and, the cash to make it happen.

More recently I tried the Pre-phylloxera wine. To taste wine from 140 year old vines that has not been influenced by growing on a rootstock is becoming a rare thing at a global level. Trying Capellano’s Barolo’s from vine grown on their own roots and American rootstocks, the ‘Pie Franco’ (French foot or rootstock) and ‘Pie Rupestris’ (Rupestris / American rootstock) is perhaps one of the better known opportunities to do so. The difference between the two is striking.

Terre Nere’s Pre-Phylloxera wine has such elegance, delicacy, yet concentration, stunning perfume and spice. The sophistication, line and length of tannin is incredible. Layered and enticing, one to age be I little more patient than I could be with it! Start trying from 2020, will drink for much longer. Heart racing stuff.

Such vineyards are a labour of love, the incredibly low yields placing them on the knife’s edge of being economically viable. Note the broad beans planted in the vineyard to introduce nitrogen and organic matter through a cycle of composting, helping to build the soil structure.

While you might think vineyard in Sicily would be hot, their elevation combined with planting on cooler North facing slopes can make it challenging to ripen fruit on the highest sites in a cool year.

About Terre Nere

Although de Grazia was one of the architects of the modern style of Barolo, the Terre Nere wines show no signs of those modern, often over-oaked wines, lacking harmony. Poise and restraint being the norm. The larger format oak in the winery, both botte and puncheons are clear sign that sophistication is the intent.

Perfectly articulated by Marco de Grazia himself:

“Tenuta delle Terre Nere is the fruit of over 30 years of passion and work in the world of fine wine.

And an extraordinary location, as well – this “island within an island” that is the Etna – that my brother and I chose. And that, I sometimes believe, actually chose us. A place where nature is prodigal but also severe. And here I try with all my heart to express as purely as possible the refined and multifaceted microcosm of this ancient volcanic land. With respect, care and hard farm work, always in organic balance.

The estate’s philosophy is simple. Given an extreme climate, in order to obtain the best and most consistent ripening, our attention must focus on vineyard management. The finest workmanship in all aspects of viticulture is the first thing that sets us apart. And what enables us, bringing home exceptionally fine grapes, not to be invasive in our cellar work. A work best described as aimed above all at expressing the character of our varieties in their specific terroir.

A great team, a delicate hand and a heightened sensibility, as well. And our ideals, that drive us to give the best of ourselves in quest, not of perfection, but of the ideal bond between what nature gives us and that which our sensitivity, experience and imagination suggests.

All this sets us apart.”

Where in the world is Terre Nere?

I thought I’d share these three maps to help you get your head around Etna and it’s place in Sicily. The first map gives you the big picture. The second highlights the general area planted on Etna, mostly South to South-East facing. The third shows most, but, not all of the Contrada (single vineyards) and their relative elevations.