Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Dhillon by Bindi Col Mountain Shiraz 2017

Shiraz/Syrah | Victoria, Australia

This wine, to state the obvious, has been quite a while coming! In 2014 we began making experimental ferments using four clones from this exciting vineyard and decided to mature the blended bottled wines until we felt they were settled and singing. The 2017 Col Mountain is based on the smooth and aromatic Shiraz clones PT23 and 1654 with a little of the robust and rich Yalumba and R6WV28.The Col Mountain wines, from deep red soil with a significant amount of shattered rock, are earthier and
$85
$81ea in any 3+
$77ea in any 6+

Domaine Testut Chablis Vielles Vignes 2019

Chardonnay | France, Burgundy

The pedigree of this fruit at the Chablis level is pretty bloody good! It's from a 50 year old parcel adjacent to the Grand Cru, Blanchot!Bloody tasty Village. Beautifully weighted and developed. Often at this level Chablis can be thin and raw. Testut here, as with all his wines shows a deft touch in raise the wine and building generosity. A wine that can be hoovered now, it’ll drink well over the next few years. Great flow across your palate, fine, sophisticated, perfect everyday drinking
$89
$85ea in any 3+
$81ea in any 6+

Julian Haart Mosel Riesling 2020

Riesling | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

Made primarily from Goldtröpchen fruit, with some grapes sourced from two more elevated vineyards, delicate playful fun dry Rizza, juicy with zippy acid. Hints of musk earthiness and a couple of savoury pops. This is very clever stuff. Nicely developed for an entry level wine it’s excellent. When you drink concentrate on the mouthfeel, the shape of the wine as it flows across your palate and clean finish.
$91
$87ea in any 3+
$83ea in any 6+

E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Via Nuova’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

This one’s an argument for blending sites! The Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites, and 15,000 bottles were created. Showing a classical profile, the E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Via Nuova delivers a firm sense of inner fiber and richness with dark bluebe
$255
$245ea in any 3+
$235ea in any 6+