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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Feeling Thirsty?

The 2021 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is a young classic, mingling scents of sweet citrus oil and peach with notions of white flowers, struck match, bee pollen and youthful reduction in an incipiently complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it's concentrated, taut and incisive, with a long, mineral finish. Drink 2025-2045William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 94 Points AM 94
This is also suffering from post-bottling reduction so some air would be helpful if you're going to crack a bottle young. More interesting are the slightly sleeker middleweight flavors that also possess a seductive mouthfeel while delivering solid depth and persistence on the balanced finale. This should also repay up to a decade of keeping though unlike the Chenevottes, it's a wine that will need at least a few years of bottle aging first. Drink: 2029+Allen Meadows, Burghound 91 Points �
$345
$330ea in any 3+
$315ea in any 6+

Olek Bondonio Barbera 2021

Barbera | Piedmont, Barbaresco

This is how you do Barbera! My note is a replica of the last: Dark, brooding. Lovely élévage, well-developed pre-bottling. Yes, it’s still young, of course. Where so many Barbara’s are raw at this point there is a sense of togetherness. It’s a pure expression of the grape without interference from oak.It looks to have spent reasonable time on skins, the extraction and flavour development adding the earthy, skin contact/maceration character, and quality tannin wrapping quality frui
$82
$78ea in any 3+
$74ea in any 6+
Domaine Marcel Deiss 1er Cru 'Grasberg' 2017
OFF-DRY
Premier Cru action from Deiss! Riesling ~ Pinot Gris ~ Gewurztraminer I haven't had the chance to try this yet. Given the rest of the 2017 are looking great this should be excellent too.Notes from the last Grasberg I drank:Something quite special here. A unique wine of immense character. The botrytis play with spice, fresh apricot and almond / marzipan sits delicately with citrus, flowers, grapefruit and beyond. Off dry it sits balanced, with fresh acidity dancing over the light sweetnes
$138
$133ea in any 3+
$128ea in any 6+