Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]

In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #10 2023
The 2023 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #10 is very clear, fresh and precise on the spring-like nose. Flavors of crushed rocks, salts and lime zest drag into the glass, and the wine, once on the palate, is full of energy and very fine raisin, even blueberry and wax leaf aromas. This beautifully balanced and silky Domprobst Spätlese is full of finesse and reveals a playful, irresistible character with perfectly ripe fruit that is like an idea of fruit rather than material on the palate. T
$141
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Giovanni Canonica Barolo 'Paiagallo' 2021
2020 Barolos have been showing very tightly coiled in their youth across the vintage. There have been notable exceptions. Canonica's Paiagallo and Magheritta Otto's Barolo both have a core of fruit that is shining, expressive and inviting.Canonica's 2020 Paiagallo will still need a few years to reveal its considerable potential. I suspect we will look back on 2020 as an underrated vintage in time. Although 15% on the label, there is no imbalance or over-ripeness here. Fully flavoured, savour
$198
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Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 'Les Olivets' 2019
“Dark Ruby. Fresh cherry, dark berries, pungent flowers and hints of musky earth and garrigue on the fragrant nose. Pliant and expansive on the palate, offering juicy red and dark berry, candied violet and baking spice flavors and a hint of mocha that adds appealing sweetness. Finishes long and gently chewy, with well-knit tannins and lingering spiciness.”Josh Raynolds, Vinous 92 Points, WS 93 
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Domaine Bachelet-Monnot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 'Les Referts' 2022
“The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a compelling bouquet with wet limestone, petrichor and Granny Smith on the nose. This has very good vigor. The palate is well-balanced with an understated opening, just a light walnut and white peach note emerging with time and rounding out the finish. Very fine.” Neal Martin, Vinous 91-93 Points JM 91-94
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