Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Praeter Langhe Nebbiolo 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Barolo Cru Druca Fruit from the Vineyards of Luigi Oddero! Historically from the La Morra Specola Cru from 2020 the fruit is sourced from the Druca Cru in Barolo. Declassified Barolo! Not for quality, but, for the shorter ageing timeframe. BOOM! The rest of the fruit from this Cru goes into the Langhe Nebbiolo. Specola is now bottled as a Cru Barolo with some of the fruit going into the Classico.The shift in Cru was based on a desire to find fruit with softer tannin to handle 100% wholebunc
$79
$75ea in any 3+
$71ea in any 6+
This is Mortet’s ‘super Gevrey’ and comes from a clutch of five brilliantly placed plots that Denis Mortet deliberately chose for the quality of their terroirs and vines. The vineyards include En Motrot, situated between the church and Château de Gevrey-Chambertin close to Clos Saint-Jacques; Au Vellé, very close-by under Petits Cazetiers; Combe-du-Dessus, situated at the top of the Brochon slope just north-east of Gevrey itself; En Champs directly below Gevrey’s 1er Cru Champeaux (the
$319
$309ea in any 3+
$299ea in any 6+

Fèlsina ‘Fontalloro’ IGT 2017

Sangiovese | Castelnuovo Berardenga, Italy

Fontalloro is exquisite in 2017. It is also such a contrast to the Rancia, as the two wines could not possibly be more different. Fontalloro is bright and vibrant, with more sweet red Sangiovese character than the darker Rancia. It is also incredibly delicious now, even though it clearly has the energy to age for many years. The 2017 is one of the finest Fontalloros I can remember tasting.Antonio Galloni
$155
$150ea in any 3+
$145ea in any 6+
"The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of red berries, cherries and cassis mingled with hints of smoked meats, black truffle and loamy soil. Full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping, its ample core of lively fruit is framed by a muscular chassis of ripe, powdery tannins."William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
$1,220
$1200ea in any 3+
$1180ea in any 6+