Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Müller-Catoir Bürgergarten Erste Lage Riesling 2019
DRY

Riesling from Pfalz, Germany

Müller-Catoir Bürgergarten Erste Lage Riesling 2019

One of the Benchmark Pfalz Estates! Update Nov 2023 Two years on the Erste Lage has resolved & the epic tension of its youth has relaxed. The Pfalz tends to make wines of a weight between the Mosel and Reinhessen. This one is true to form with plenty of zip and energy. Wonderfully expressive with a flowing long finish. Great drinking with more to come!Paul Kaan, WINE DECODEDPerfumed with freshly grated lime zest, basil, white pepper and blossoming jasmine rising from the glass,

Vintage 2019
$95
$91ea in any 3+
$87ea in any 6+

Spanna from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara ‘Molsino’ 2014

The 2014 Gattinara Molsino is shy and introverted in its first impression, with quite a bit of intensity lurking in the background. Today, the Molsino is not as expressive as the Valferana, but its day will come. With a bit of aeration, the 2014 starts to show the structure, layers of nuance and resonance that will emerge more fully in time.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 PointsHard not to take notice wine Roberto Conterno decided to drop some coin on a new vineyard! Taking a 90% holding Ner

Vintage 2014
$460
$445ea in any 3+
$430ea in any 6+

Red Blend from Greve UGA, Chianti Classico

Castello dei Rampolla ‘d’Alceo’ 2019

This show how good Bordeaux blends can be in Italy and just how different they are from their French counterparts! Jumping from 4,000 vines a hectare to 8-10,000. Grown as bush vines. Immediate oppulence and generosity on the nose. The structural element from the tannin are very different from the tannins of Bordeaux, edgy again in a good way.  Such complexity with a layer of macerative characters and the perfume they can offer. Vibrant acidity and flowers from the Petit Verdot. d'Alceo is a wo

Vintage 2019
$298
$288ea in any 3+
$278ea in any 6+

Viognier from Château Grillet, Condrieu

Château Grillet 2022

The perfume alone is enough to make your heart race! Château Grillet (pronounced Gree-yay) makes one of the world’s most sublime white wines from Viognier. It’s price is heading into the stratosphere.I loved playing with the Viognier at Yarra Yering, may have been from Grillet cuttings, may not ….. and was fortunate to drink my fair share of Grillet. For years there was never enough Viognier at YY to make an individual white wine. It was always co-fermented with Shiraz to make the Dr

Vintage 2022
$1,560
$1540ea in any 3+
$1520ea in any 6+