Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Feeling Thirsty?

Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Faiveley ‘Clos De Bèze Ouvrees Rodin’ Grand Cru 2019

A selection one of Faiveley's very best vineyards, Clos de Bèze! I had Faiveley's 2015 Latricières Chambertin recently, delicious, perfumed elegant and refined. Along with the 2015, I devoured a brace of 2016's from across the appellations. They are really stepping up their game, the investments in the vineyard and winery are a testament to this. Note: a selection of the oldest vines in one of their 3 parcels. This wine consistently outscores the 'standard' Clos de Bèze. 2014 95-97, 2015 94-

Vintage 2019

Riesling from Mosel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2024

The 2024 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese offers a salty wet slate aroma with a savor reminiscent of lichen and citrus peel. All about it is precise, stony, linear, crystalline and bright. You almost forget that this is a Spätlese, as its sweetness and acidity seem to be bound absolutely to the sunken salty slate that makes the mouth water endlessly. The 2024 has brilliance, poise, absolute structure and very fine bones. The finish is full of lemon zest.Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous 95 Po

Vintage 2024
$115
$110ea in any 3+
$105ea in any 6+
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Chardonnay from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc ‘Au Bout du Monde’ 2023

Located in the lieu-dit of En Creuzilly at a height of 420 metres with ‘more clay’. A very fresh wine with less ‘fat’ that wants time to show its best. Ample depth covering a very fine structure.Vines in the direction of Nolay, bought in 2014 – 2015 was the first vintage – from an 8 ha domaine shared with Sauzet – about 6km from domaine, vines on hillsides, over 400m with plenty of clay in this soil. Harvested about a week later than the vines around Chassagne – patience is a

Vintage 2023
$136
$131ea in any 3+
$126ea in any 6+
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon Milly Clos du Four 2023
Lafon's Mâcon!

Chardonnay from Mâcon, Burgundy

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon Milly Clos du Four 2023

Let this warm a little in the glass and watch it blossom! There is a background hint of matchstick character on the cool, airy and elegant nose of mostly green apple, citrus and floral nuances. The super-sleek and chiseled flavors aren't as dense but they're clearly finer with a texture that is akin to rolling a small pebble around the mouth on the balanced, long and very dry finale. This is also first-rate for the appellation and one to strongly consider. ♥ OutstandingAllen Meadows, Burgh

Vintage 2023
$112
$107ea in any 3+
$102ea in any 6+
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