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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]

In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Domaine Tollot-Beaut Grand Cru ‘Corton-Bressandes’ 2018

Pinot Noir | Savigny-lès-Beaune, France

"A brooding nose only reluctantly reveals its extremely fresh notes of plum, cassis, violets and pungent earth. There is a bit more volume to the powerful, concentrated and serious big-bodied flavors that evidence a lovely minerality on the mouth coating, firmly structured and strikingly long and beautifully well-balanced finish. This bad boy of a Bressandes is a knockout but one that is clearly going to require extended cellaring to soften what are presently resolute tannins." Drink: 2035+ Don'
$306
$296ea in any 3+
$286ea in any 6+
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Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Moving to Monforte at the top of Bussia we see the hallmarks of the top Bussia. The acid tannin complex is true to the form for the commune showing a playful grip. Bright red fruit with a certain delicacy combine with energetic acid. Again a beautiful perfume with a dark mineral slatey edge. Blood orange and a little phenol. Another great example of grape first Barolo showing its part of the commune of Monforte. Like the Monrobiolo a few more years in bottle will see this resolve, build and
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+
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Cascina Roccalini Barbaresco 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

When a young winery pop's up a little leg work is required to suss them out. Obviously, the most important thing is what's in the glass. Let's add the other bits of the equation though. The vineyards are right next to Olek Bondonio's joint, they used to supply their Neb to Dante Scaglione at Bruno Giacosa for ten years, and Dante helped them start their own venture. BOOM! The 2019 Barbaresco is playful expression, strawberries and cream lift from the glass. The label is a visual descriptor of
$109
$104ea in any 3+
$99ea in any 6+
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Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso di Bepi 2016

Red Blend | Veneto, Valpolicella

It's no surprise that Giuseppe is considered the Maestro. Only Quintarelli would declassify a wine like this, the difference between Amarone and Rosso is a very fine line here. Exotic nose of sweet spice potpourri, dried and fresh red fruit notes . The palate is powerful and rich with crushed bitter chocolate notes, dark red fruit, and a pomegranate /orange peel note . A fine mineral and tannin line gives the wine structure and even though this is a big wine, it is always elegant. Grapes
$413
$398ea in any 3+
$383ea in any 6+
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