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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]

In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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David Duband Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Thorey’ 2020

Pinot Noir | Nuits-Saint-Georges, France

"A more restrained but equally pretty nose displays a broad range of floral nuances along with pretty spice nuances on the red and dark currant scents. The sleek and nicely elegant medium-bodied flavors possess a really lovely mouthfeel as well as excellent length on the compact, youthfully austere and balanced finale. Note that this is sufficiently structured to require at least a few years of cellaring before it will be approachable." 2032+ Allen Meadows, Burghound ♥ Outstanding
$282
$272ea in any 3+
$262ea in any 6+
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"The 2019 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is bright, precise and elegant on the complex, refined, beautifully clear and flinty nose. Lush, refined and salty-piquant on the palate, this is a salty, crunchy and stimulating Kabinett with a long and intense finish. Bottled with 9.5% alcohol and 60 grams of residual sugar." Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advcoate
$63
$60ea in any 3+
$57ea in any 6+
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“Almost black in the centre. Black cherry, very powerful indeed with some firm tannins and still very good acidity. Sterner and weightier, not for the ethereal minded. The wine had not yet been adjusted for sulphur and a second sample was fresher, though along similar lines.” Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy 89-92 Points “The 2020 Maranges La Fussière 1er Cru which contains slightly less whole bunch than the Village, has a more austere, well-defined, stony bouquet featuring dark berry
$106
$101ea in any 3+
$96ea in any 6+
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Excellent élévage yet so very tight. Graphite mineral thing. Long even tannins, fine vibrant red fruit fresh red cherry. Pure grape first Syrah with much more going on. Lovely shape. Longer finer feel compared with Villard’s Saint-Joseph that uses much more whole bunch. It’s a matter of preference and difference not necessarily quality between the two. More to come from both with a few years in bottle. Excellent Syrah!
$88
$84ea in any 3+
$80ea in any 6+
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