The 2017 Rheinhessen Rizza’s of Gunderloch & Wittman


The Rheinhessen is kicking out some stunning Riesling
Both Wittmann & Gunderloch are at the top of their game!

The Rheinhessen is kicking out some stunning Riesling both dry and off-dry think Keller, Wagner-Stemple, Van Hovel, and, of course Wittmann & Gunderloch. Of the GG vineyards in the Rheinhessen, Morstein, Kirschpiel, Aulerde, Rothenberg and Pettenthal are crackers. Both Gunderloch and Wittman have kicked out stunning dry & sweet Rizza in 2017.

Meeting the two makers early this year, my instant impression was one of speaking with a couple of serious wine minds! Combine this with old vines planted on exceptional sites, centuries of winemaking history and the smarts to ask the right questions and the results are impressive. Tasting their wines it was clear they have both translate their thoughts into the nectar of the Gods!


Today we offer their GG’s from 2017. A stunning vintage that was, on one hand, catastrophic in terms of yield, and, on the other, stratospheric in terms of quality!


VDP.GROSSE LAGE VDP.GROSSE LAGE®

This is the designation for the highest quality vineyards in Rheinhessen, sites that are precisely delineated by parcel. Here the finest wines are grown, with expressive vineyard character and special potential for cellaring. Think Grand Cru from Burgundy.

About Gunderloch

Johannes Hasselbach has well and truly hit his stride after taking the winemaking reins from his late father Fritz a few years back. Warm, charming, modest and brilliant Fritz Hasselbach, who passed away from illness in October 2016, was the man who lifted the estate into the Rheinhessen’s top flight. Johannes and the team are taking it even further, turning out stunning wines from top-rated vineyards of the Roter Hang, a steep hill of red slate overlooking the Rhine. The dry Rieslings are intensely concentrated and expressive of the red volcanic soil. The fruity wines are even more so, with their touch of sweetness that acts as a conduit for flavour and aroma. Nackenheim Rothenberg is one of the great vineyards of Germany. Gunderloch was the first winery in Germany to put its entire range under screwcap and holds the ‘claim to fame’ of scoring a hat-trick of 100-point reviews in Wine Spectator.

At the Moment the Hasselbach Family cultivates 24ha of vineyards which are planted with 85% Riesling. Working with our vineyards we feel obliged to preserve the plants and the sanity of the soil for the generations to come. Already with cautious pruning, we are aiming for very low yields around 50 hl/ha. It is our ambition to find the perfect balance of aromatics, fruity acidity and the typical minerality of our slaty soils. of the Grape-Berry. We are fascinated by the harmony between concentration, liveliness and a strong mineralic-deepness.

According to the philosophy of the Hasselbach family, wine is created in the vineyards. Humans can only accompany the creation process and should intervene as little as possible. In their understanding it is never the right way to put their demands over the need of the vineyards. They try to find the right measures to help the vine to find its natural balance in the given circumstances of the growing season. They want to train the vine away from a yield-driven thinking to a more balance seeking approach. Throughout our work with the vines, the growing season in the vineyard, and the vinification process in the winery, it’s the guideline of the Hasselbach family to always seek harmony and balance. Conscientious interaction with nature is an absolute imperative and they treat their vineyards as an irreplaceable treasure. They strive to intervene less and less in the course of nature and focus on their goal of sustaining this natural treasure for future generations. And this is how the wines should taste: unmistakable Ambassadors of our Terroir. Therefore Riesling, as the Terroir variety, plays the main role in our vinery. 85% of our 24 ha of vineyards are devoted to Riesling. But also Silvaner, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir play a more and more important role. In addition, we also own smaller plantings of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Portugieser.


Our winery has been founded in 1890 by the Banker Carl Gunderloch. Since then it has been the passion of our family to focus on the Riesling variety which finds perfect conditions in our vineyards. The 250 million year old “Red slate” -Soil from permian times and the special microclimatic setting on the steep slopes next to the impressive River Rhein build the base for the creation of unique wines. At the Moment the Hasselbach Family cultivates 24ha of vineyards which are planted with 85% Riesling. Working with our vineyards we feel obliged to preserve the plants and the sanity of the soil for the generations to come. Already with an cautious pruning we are aiming for very low yields around 50 hl/ha. It is our ambition to find the perfect balance of aromatics, a fruity acidity and the typical minerality of our slaty soils. of the Grape-Berry. We are fascinated by the harmony between concentration, liveliness and a strong mineralic-deepnes.


Gunderloch is part of the amazing Wuzelwork Project with fruit swaps across Germany and Austria allowing top winemakers to explore just how much influence winery and winemaker has on the end result!

Where in the World are Gunderloch’s Wines Made?

Gunderloch is based in Nackenheim in the northern part of the Rheinhessen with vineyard holdings a little farther south in Neirstein including the Grand Cru sites of Hipping and Pettenthal.

Map by Fernando Beteta, MS @fernandobeteta on Twitter

About Wittmann

Philipp Wittmann was named Winemaker of the Year 2014 by the Gault Millau Wine Guide, with the judges praising him as “one of the pioneers of organic viticulture and a driving force behind quality developments” in the southern Rheinhessen. “For many years he has produced superb dry Rieslings with fascinating ageing potential,” they went on. “Almost single-handedly he elevated the Morstein site to legendary status.” Philipp’s ancestors have been winegrowers in the old market town of Westhofen since the mid-1600s. His father Günter put the estate on an organic footing, and it’s been a member of organic farmers’ association Naturland since 1990.

Philipp then took the step to go biodynamic in 2004. He lays the foundation for wines of exceptional quality through intensive, year-round vineyard maintenance, low yields and the uncompromising selection of bunches by hand. For the most part, the wines ferment in traditional, old oak casks or stainless steel and fermentation often continues into the year following the harvest. Already firmly established as one of Germany’s superstar producers, this young winemaker has a brilliant future ahead of him. Biodynamic producer

Where in the World is Wittmann?

Wittmann Rheinhessen Vineyard Maps
Click to enlarge🔎

Vintage Notes from Wittmann

SMALL VOLUME, UNCOMPROMISING QUALITY

TO START…the result was the smallest harvest in the recent history of our estate, but at the same time we have put an extremely promising vintage down to age, one that will in no way take a back seat to 2016 or 2015.

BUT HOW DID THIS COME ABOUT?

It was very dry in the first months of the year – after a truly wintery January, the temperatures climbed to well above average already in February and in March. And April began in similar fashion, so that the vines budded some two weeks earlier than the longtime average. Too early, unfortunately, because the cold returned on 20 April. Nighttime frosts on 20 & 24 April brought things to a critical juncture for the young growth in the vineyards. We mounted a successful defence on more than two hectares with the help of frost candles. It took an enormous amount of effort; the fires among the vines were wondrously beautiful to look at, but concerns about frost damage stood foremost in our thoughts.

Things quickly became warmer in May. Growth moved briskly forward; from the end of the month until in July, temperatures above 30°C were no rarity. Marvellous summer weather gladdened the hearts of our vineyard team – as well as pleasing the vines. Blossoming took place about one week ahead of schedule, and proceeded quite well in the healthy vineyards, since the water supply in the soils was nearly optimal thanks to the thunderstorms and rainfall in June and July.

In August as well, we suffered a bit of anxiety about the possibility of thunderstorms bringing hail with them, but weekly rains provided the vineyards with the necessary moisture, and the summery weather let the clusters ripen quite early. Unfortunately, there came a hitch in the proceedings on 25 August: a thunderstorm flinging hail damaged many vineyards in the Westhofener Berg, in the direction of Gundersheim. But there followed a bit of a blessing: there was a warm and dry autumn ahead of us, one that dried out nearly all the damaged clusters, and gave us the chance – by means of extremely stringent selection in the vineyards – to separate the healthy grapes from those that were damaged. The amount of effort was enormous, and the harvest volumes so small as never before, but the quality of the grape material motivated us to pick with focus and detail, every day in the vineyards. We were overjoyed to see the perfect condition of the clusters in the vineyards AULERDE and KIRCHSPIEL – in those sites, the hail had spared the vines. In BRUNNENHÄUSCHEN and MORSTEIN we were able to win the battle against nature and defy the disaster, harvesting carefully selected, golden-yellow, nicely ripened grapes. We owe special thanks to our diligent co-workers, who because of their rigorous manual labour, great investment of time – and above all passion – were able to bring a difficult harvest to a qualitatively satisfying conclusion.


About the Wines


The Gunderloch's

2017 Gunderloch Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs

To the south end of the Rothenberg Vineyard is the well-known Pettenthal grand cru site. The soil of this famous vineyard is also comprised of red shale, but here it’s slightly more weathered. The extremely friable, in certain parcels even sandy, texture yields wine of lighter structure with vibrant elegance. Despite the vineyard’s proximity to the Rothenberg, the two resulting wines differ greatly. The wines of the Pettenthal are distinguished by exotic fruit aromas from the moment of their youth and retain their refreshing character for many years. The steepest parcels of Gunderloch’s estate are located in this vineyard. Vintage 2017 saw a cold early spring followed by a hot, dry summer before conditions turned more moderate in late summer to lead into a mild harvesting period with cold nights. Alcohol 12.5%; RS 3.5g/L; TA 7.5g/L.

95 Points

Still closed, though there’s plenty of smoke and fresh parsley on the nose. This sleek beauty has wonderful elegance on the palate and a long, racy finish with a ton of herbs and wild berries. Try in 2019. Screw cap.

Stuart Piggot for James Suckling

2017 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs

The Rothenberg vineyard encompasses about 20 hectares directly on the Rhine River on the north end of the “Roter Hang” between Nackenheim and Nierstein. Around five hectares of this comprise the heart of the Rothenberg. The vineyard has a slope of 30 to 80% and comprises 290-million-year-old red shale plates. The Hasselbach family of Gunderloch Estate own around 4.5 hectares of this prime vineyard made up predominantly of very steep parcels. The Nackenheimer Rothenberg is without question their most prominent vineyard mountain. It yields wines of striking mineral character paired with a broad spectrum of expressive spice and fruit aromas. Vintage 2017 saw a cold early spring followed by a hot, dry summer before conditions turned more moderate in late summer to lead into a mild harvesting period with cold nights. Just one small parcel of no more than 20 rows producing the highest quality of grapes are devoted to this wine. Alcohol 12.5%; RS 2.3g/L; TA 7.5g/L.

96 Points

Deep and complex with plenty of smoke and hot, dry-stone character. The mineral energy of this wine is enormous and there isn't a hint of opulence to stand in its way. Super-long and firm finish. This is as original as it gets. Try in 2019. Screw cap.

Stuart Piggot for James

Gunderloch's Sweet Ones

2017 Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett

Fruit from lower terraces of Gunderloch’s top three grand-cru sites: Nierstein Hipping, Nierstein Pettenthal and Nackenheim Rothenberg. Red slate soils from Permian era. Alcohol 10.5%; RS 23g/L; TA 8g/L.

Playful

I love seeing Kabinett styles from the different regions of Germany. Gunderloch's from the Rheinhessen is an absolute cracker!

So playful. This is an excellent wine. Complex with beautiful acid, a divine texture. This is just delicious. A beautiful expression. Compared to the Kabinett of Loosen in the Mosel you see and extra 2.5% alcohol, half the residual sugar and 1.5g/L less acid yet both are balanced. The extra fermentation raising the alcohol adds vinosity and more immediate approachability to the wine.

Paul Kaan - Chief Wine Hacker, Wine Decoded

2017 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese

The Wittmann 2017's

2017 Wittmann Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs

Aulerde is Wittmann’s warmest site. Westhofen’s south- to south-east vineyard slopes rise from the glacial valley of the Rhine to the rim of a high plateau. The Aulerde vineyard lies at the foot of the protective eastern and south-eastern slopes of the Kirchspiel site. The vines here face slightly south. The upper layers of a small portion of Aulerde are heavy clayish marl with only a very small amount of limestone. Wittmann’s Riesling grows where the subsoil contains clayey or gravelly sand.

95 Points

Lavish yellow fruit, including some almost overripe pineapple. This just avoids tipping into opulence; there's healthy acidity and that lifts this monster dry riesling at the bold, herbal finish. From almost 70-year-old vines. Biodynamically grown grapes. Respekt certified. Drink or hold.

Stuart Piggot for James Suckling

2017 Wittmann Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs

The Kirchspiel grand cru site opens toward the Rhine like an amphitheatre. Its southern and south-east exposure protects the vines from cold westerly winds – and accounts for the excellent microclimate of the vineyard. The soil structure is similar to that of the Morstein site, marked by clayish marl interspersed with limestone. Limestone is the predominant component of the subsoil, too.

 

2017 Wittmann Morstein Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewächs MAGNUM

THE SITE This pure south-facing slope rises to a high plateau at 280 metres above sea level, and is the first single vineyard to be mentioned officially in Westhofen, in 1282. The VDP.GROSSE LAGE Morstein is situated in the mid portion of this hillside, between 180–240 metres elevation, with a gradient of twenty per cent.

Wittmann Morstein Vineyard

THE SOIL Here one encounters heavy clay marl soils with limestone deposits on the top stratum. The subsoil is dominated by water-channelling layers of rocky limestone, which guarantee optimal supplies of nutrients and mineral material.

Wittmann Morstein Soil

DESCRIPTION “Pure refreshment with elegant citrus fruits, lovely floral aromas, herbality and spice. It’s hard to imagine a finer nose, delicate and sophisticated; a truly sublime bouquet. A lithe dancer of incredible elegance and poise, with breathtaking expressiveness. I have never tasted a Morstein of such purity, an incomparable sensual experience in the glass and on the palate.” (Max Gerstl, our Swiss importer)


JAMSESUCKLING.COM, 2018 MORSTEIN: THE NEW GRAND CRU OF THE RHINE” (STUART PIGOTT) 08.05.2018

“Situated in the wine region of Rheinhessen in Germany, the Morstein vineyard site in Westhofen has achieved cult status since the last turn of the century by playing a key role in the paradigm shift for German wines from sweet to dry wines. Today, the Morstein has garnered international attention for producing dry white wines of great complexity and restrained power.

The man behind this celebrated wine is Philipp Wittmann, owner and winemaker of the Wittmann estate in Westhofen. When he released his first solo Morstein, the great 2001 vintage he pushed the long-forgotten Westhofen into the spotlight, making this one of the great turning points in German winemaking.

In many ways, the Morstein site is typical for a new German “grand cru”. The soil is clay-marl over limestone cliffs, which means the soil is much closer to that of the Grand Cru Montrachet than to the slate of the Mosel Valley. Although the Morstein vineyard has an inclination of 20 to 25% —less than half that of the other top sites on the Mosel — the soil is only 20 centimeters deep in some places, and the maximum depth is only 1.5 meters. Due to the altitude of 180 to 240 meters above sea level, the site is best described as a cool corner in a rather warm region. This unique terroir and microclimate lead to a healthy acidity content, which helps explain the restrained power in Morstein dry Rieslings, preventing the wine from ever tasting heavy.”

98 Points

"Anything but a fruit bomb, this has gigantic herbal intensity on the nose, then literally breathtaking concentration on the palate and a finish of crystalline purity – words more often used to describe the much sleeker wines from the Mosel. From biodynamically grown grapes. Respekt certified. Gigantic aging potential, but you can certainly drink it now.“ Top 100 wines of 2018

James Suckling

97-98 Points

“The smokiest and spiciest Wittmann's 2017 Riesling GG. Shows enormous depth and yet, it remains cool and poised. A super long and mineral finish with a delicate creaminess that balances the bright acidity exactly. An amazing achievement, considering the hail damage occurred just weeks before the harvest. Though the quantity was much lower than normal, there is no doubt that this is a masterpiece. Better from 2020.”

Stuart Piggot for James Suckling

96 Points

“The light golden hue of this bone-dry, intensely mineral-driven white hints at concentration, and while the palate matches, this features beautifully integrated acidity that beams, imparting a lively profile. The flavors of rich meringue, cream and fleur de sel are sprinkled with bold, ripe notes of melon, coconut and spice. The succulent, mouthwatering finish flows across the palate. Best from 2021 through 2035.”

Wine Spectator


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  • Gunderloch's Rizza's
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