Domaine Huet – Maker of Truly Divine Chenin


If the Vouvray region of the Loire Valley is the home of Chenin Blanc, Domaine Huet is one of Chenins Parents!
These are entrancing wines of incredible beauty, superb balance, layering & complexity.
From pristine dry wines to insane sweet wines that rival the best German Rieslings and Sauternes they are spectacular wines!

Tasting the wines from Domaine Huet for the first time at a crowded trade event gave a moment of peace amongst the crazed glasses thrusting forward for a pour of the next wine and a room of wine tragics trying not to spit on each other!

“…among the finest white wines on earth, rivalled only for longevity, and for the beauty of its cellar metamorphoses, by Riesling.” Andrew Jefford

The Sec, dry wines, have remarkable balance and energy, the transparency and vitality pulsate through them. Incredibly drinkable now they beautiful acid and core of fruit will see them stand the test of time. The élévage here is excellent. Many Chenins come across raw in their youth. Not so for those of Huet. Delicate, yet, intense, they dance across your palate. Pristine with such beautiful fine mouthfeel. The perfume and florals rising from the glass entrance, with layers of baking spice, apricot and pear forming the backbone. Superb wines.

The Moulleaux, sweet and botrytis wines, have exceptional balance and refinement. The 1er Trie versions are stunning. The juicy natural acid playing an important role in keeping them fresh.

Today we offer Huet’s current release 2017’s + a selection of museum release wines all the way back to 1990!

🔥HOT TIP 🔥
The 2015 Mouleaux Première Trie wines are a little under-priced!

Producteur de qualité exceptionnelle Le Classement 2019
(One of only seven Loire producers at this highest level)


“No matter what the vintage or the wine style (including sparkling), the quality [chez Domaine Huet] is always extraordinary and clearly reflects the excellence of their terroirs. The chiseled, contoured mouthfeel and precise minerality are unique in the Loire.” La Revue du Vin de France


“Domaine Huet’ means ‘I make the best damn Chenin Blanc on the planet’ …” Mike Steinberger

About Domaine Huet

Widely considered to be the single greatest Vouvray domaine and one of the foremost white wine producers in the world today, Domaine Huet should require little introduction. The film below shares an interview Huet’s Noël Pinguet walking through the Clos du Borg

Domaine Huet was founded in 1928 by Victor Huet, however, it was his son, Gaston, who was to make this Estate one of the greatest France had ever known. Gaston worked with his father until 1937, after which he took full control. Over the next five decades, Gaston drove the Huet name to greater and greater heights. He inherited the Haut-Lieu vineyard and went on to purchase Clos du Bourg in 1953 and the Le Mont site in 1957. These three great terroirs were the foundations on which Domaine Huet’s reputation was forged. In 1971, Noël Pinguet, Gaston’s son-in-law, joined the Estate and another era began. Together, Gaston and Noël continued the progress of the estate. It was Pinguet who converted the vineyards to biodynamics in the late 80s, and put greater emphasis on the purity and precision of the wines. Jean-Bernard Berthomé, who at the time was chef du culture of Domaine Huet and is the Estate’s current winemaker, was the driving force behind the Huet’s advancement in biodynamic farming.

Jean Bernard Berthome with Gaston Huet in the Clos du Bourg

When Gaston Huet passed in 2002, Pinguet sought a financial partner and in 2003, Anthony Hwang, a New York based businessman, invested in the Estate. The Hwang family continued to work with Noël Pinguet for a decade until the latter’s retirement in 2012. Today the vineyards and cellars of the Estate are managed by Jean-Bernard Berthomé, who has played an integral role at Domaine Huet since 1979. Assisting Berthomé is Benjamin Joliveau, who has worked at the estate since 2008 and was hand picked by Noël Pinguet.  Sarah Hwang heads up the business side of things in her role as President. It is really an exceptional team as anyone in the region will tell you. It seems clear that we have now entered yet another exciting era in the history of Domaine Huet. The Hwang family has already proven that they are committed to the continued, positive evolution of the Estate and have spared no expense to this end. As Francois Chidaine recently told us, the Huet legacy is “…in very good hands”.

In the Vineyard

Biodynamic practices started in 1988 and by 1990, all of the vineyards were fully BD. Even before this, no herbicides or chemical fertilisers were utilised. Domaine Huet has holdings across three exceptional terroirs.

Le Haut Lieu

The 9 ha Le Haut Lieu vineyard sits on deep brown clay (known as aubuis) with some chalky topsoil. Here the yellow limestone (tuffeau) bedrock lies up to four metres down, making a heavier soil that produces round, supple wines that can drink very well young. That’s not to say the wine of Le Haut Lieu don’t have the capacity to age deliciously. We have enjoyed bottles from the 40’s that are still drinking very well!

Le Clos du Bourg

This walled vineyard is perhaps Vouvray’s most revered site (along with Clos Baudin). Generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet vineyards, it makes some of the most powerful, long lived wines in Vouvray in both dry and sweet. With only a shallow top soil over solid tuffeau limestone, the vines almost immediately tap into the rich mineral bedrock, resulting in powerful, dense, yet very mineral and long-lived Chenin. The walls of the Clos are also said to help facilitate a more humid macro-climate favourable to botrytis. Accordingly, some legendary sweet wines have been produced here.

Le Mont

Le Mont is a steep, rocky, 8-hectare vineyard that sits atop the chalky Vouvray hillside, overlooking Tours. The soils are very stony (limestone) and there is a greenish band of calcareous clay running close to the surface. This is a site that typically produces mineral and nervy wines so it is mostly dry and off dry whites that are produced from Le Mont.

In the Winery

Grapes are picked by hand in multiple ‘tries’ (passes through the vineyard). There is a selection both on the vines and then on a sorting table in the vineyard. The fruit is then gently whole bunch pressed. This pressing is famously slow and very gentle. There is one day of settling and then the wine is put directly to very old demi-muid (600lt barrels). There are no additions; Huet never chaptalizes or adds yeasts. Fermentation is stopped by refrigeration at the point where the perfect sugar/acid balance has been achieved and the wine is filtered and bottled with a small dose of sulphur (25ppm).

The wines of Domaine Huet are bottled and labelled according to their three vineyard sites described above. Each vineyard expresses unique characteristics and each can be made in 3 styles, subject to vintage conditions: Sec (bone dry), Demi-Sec (off dry, typically 10-20 g/lt residual) and Moelleux (slightly sweeter at approximately 30 g/lt). If the vintage allows, each vineyard may also produce a Moelleux 1er Trie (the first picking of botrytised berries) that produces a wine with residual sugar of about 60-100 g/lt and yet also with very high acidity. Like all great “sweet” wines of the world, the wines from demi sec onwards taste deceptively dry because of the terrific sugar/acid balance. These are excellent food wines and should not be thought of as “dessert wines” to be served exclusively at the end of the meal. Rather they are far better served throughout the meal or with delicate cheeses. The exception is the “super cuvée” Cuvée Constance which is only made in the greatest sweet wine years from a blend of the most concentrated botrytised fruit from all three vineyards. This is truly one of the great sweet wines of the world and is best served with dessert or cheese.

The 2017 Vintage for Domaine Huet

The Huet team knew that the (now notorious) April frost was coming, giving them time to circle the wagons. All up—with plenty of hay bales meeting their maker—only 10% of Huet’s vines were damaged, most notably in certain parcels of Le Haut-Lieu and Clos du Bourg. So the headline this year is not, as it may have been, one of decimated yields, but instead one of Huet’s earliest seasons on record. Manager Jean-Bernard Berthomé and his team began harvesting on September 18th, under beautiful autumn skies, with the last bunches cut on October 9th. This was the same day picking began in 2016! “The quality of the grapes was undeniable…” Berthomé told us, with the harvesters passing each vine at least twice to harvest only perfectly mature fruit.

Left: a bunch not infected with botrytis. Right: a botrytis infected bunch.

As it was a vintage that encouraged very little botrytis, the Domaine’s focus this year is on the dry and Demi-sec wines. Both are a touch dryer (in RS terms) than last year, combining impressive palate weight with complex floral and orchard fruit aromas and flavours and saliva-inducing tension and structure. In short, the bright acidities balance out the wines’ focussed, pure fruit and textural mouthfeel. The two Moelleux & Moelleux Première Trie this year come from Le Mont—a site we more commonly associated with Huet’s dry wines—and deliver all the mineral energy and crystal cut precision we associate with this limestone-rich Première Côte Vineyard.

A Chenin Blanc Primer

Styles

Just like Riesling, Chenin is capable of producing an incredibly diverse range of wines from fresh dry (sec), to botrytised sweet wines of insane complexity.

Similar to German Riesling’s Trocken, Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese et al., Chenin from the Loire has a classification system related to sugar levels.

  • Sec (dry)
  • Demi-Sec (off dry) typically 15-25 g/lt residual
  • Moelleux (slightly sweeter) at approximately 40-50 g/l.
  • Moelleux 1er Trie (the first picking of botrytised berries) that produces a wine with residual sugar of about 60-100 g/lt and yet also with very high acidity.

The dry wines tend to be mid-weight building a lovely level of opulence as they ages.

Flavours: Watch for the perfume, pear, citus spice, hints of apricot & jasmine in the sec, these wines build complexity as they age. The sweet wines add an array of aromas and flavours not dissimilar to the great Sauternes, ginger, honey, marmalade, patisserie notes, grilled nuts marzipan and beyond. Again as they age complexity builds.

Balance: Huet’s wines have impeccable balance across each of the styles, marrying natural acid and delicious flavours.

Mouthfeel & Texture: When very young they have a lovely texture which becomes luscious and simply put caresses your tongue as they age. As the levels of residual sugar increases the mouthfeel builds yet across the styles remains light and clean.

It’s just so easy to hoover!

When your tasting, think about the 5 elements below, they’ll make it simple and ensure you cover off the important aspects of good wine. We’ll be exploring these in detail in a series of posts for members only soon!

Tips for Drinking these Wines

🌡Temp: 14°C. We tend to drink whites an edge to cold. Don’t drink them straight out of the fridge! Let them warm up a little. They’ll become much more expressive, generous, and, lucious to drink.

🍷Decanting: You might be surprised, but, wines of this quality and youth will benefit from being thrown in a decanter.  The air will help them open up. If you’re using a Coravin or other wine preserver, pour enough into each glass to be able to try them over the course of several hours. These young whites will open up and be more expressive with a bit of time in the glass.

⏳Time: I love trying good wines stand alone, with food, and, often the next day. It gives them the chance to shine and ensures you don’t miss a good wine through impatience or fail to bring out it’s best by not marrying them to food.

🕯Cellaring: Like all good Chennins, Huet’s can be incredibly long-lived.  In a nutshell, give them 5-10 years and they’ll start to show their potential. Don’t be afraid to go 20 years.

🧀🦐🐟🐓🐖Food Match: The exact match does vary a little according to the wine. The dry and demi-sec wines marry well with white meats, veal, crustaceans, and, fish. The sweeter they become the more suited they are to cheese wine and at the sweeter levels desserts!

The Best 2 Options for Preserving your Wine:

  1. Grab a Coravin wine preserver.
  2. Watch this video, “Stop the Wine-ocide” Kaani 2012 – My Deep Dark Secret, one of my first, about saving open bottles of wine from the drain, sorry about the quality, but, the message is still there.

Where in the world is Domaine Huet?

The Loire Valley is scattered over 175,000 acres stretching from the Atlantic Ocean across to central France. Cover such a large region it is natural that it’s been broken down into sub-regions that specialise in the growing of specific varieties. Chenin Blanc is largely grown in the middle-Loire in Anjou-Saumur and Touraine within which Vouvray resides as does Domaine Huet.

The Loire Valley Wine Group produced a quirky little primer for the regions, varieties and styles produced across the Loire Valley.


About the Wines


Vouvray Sec

When young, Huet’s dry wines are pent-up, intense, mineral (chalky and/or smoky fresh) whites that are wonderfully pure and racy. With age, the top examples mature at a snail’s pace to become some of the most intriguing dry whites on the planet. They go from the white flowers, citrus pith and crunchy fruit of youth to something deliciously honeyed, buttery, savoury and autumnal. The younger examples are go-to wines for anything involving seafood or white meat. For the technically minded, Huet’s secs have between 4-8 g/L of residual sugar depending on the vintage. This year’s fleshy examples clock in between 5-6 g/L, offset by very low pH and ripe, mouth-watering acidity. The balance is exceptional.

2017 Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut Lieu

91 Points

This has honeyed yellow apple and white flower aromas, followed by a lovely concentration of firm orchard fruits on the palate and racy acidity. It's bright and open with great purity, minerality and length. 6g/l residual sugar, 4.6g/l total acidity.

Decanter

2017 Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont

91 Points

Lively, with a mix of makrut lime, verbena, white ginger and pear aromas and flavors that are zippy at the start but turn to a creamier feel through the enticing finish.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

2017 Huet Vouvray Sec Le Clos du Bourg

92 Points

This has the contrast between plump and juicy elements that makes Chenin so much fun, with ginger, honeysuckle, quince, melon and persimmon notes all working together. Shows lots of energy through the finish.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Vouvray Demi Sec

Huet’s Demi-Sec typically fall between 20-25 g/L—give or take a few grams—but the acidity makes the wine only just off-dry. These are examples of Chenin Blanc that manage finesse and diamond-like clarity, yet they are somehow open and welcoming at the same time. Like many great ‘sweet’ wines of the Loire, the wines from Demi-Sec onwards taste deceptively dry because of the terrific sugar/acid balance. These wines match beautifully with the spices of many Asian cuisines but are also brilliant when paired with French or modern Australian cooking (from seafood through to game, white meats and cheese). The 2017s clock in at between just 17-20 g/L.

2017 Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut Lieu

93 Points

Plump and lively, with a core of bold ginger, McIntosh apple and almond notes followed by quince and persimmon flavors. Shows buried minerality, but also an ever-so-slightly off-dry wink on the finish, making this especially fun to drink.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

2017 Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Clos du Borg

93 Points

This glistens, with glazed pear, warm persimmon, green plum and quince flavors, all carried by elegant white ginger and verbena notes. A light gilding of piecrust adds to the flattering feel, though there's ample acidity here for balance and drive.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Sweet wines—Vouvray Moelleux & Moelleux Première Trie

Then there is the succulent Moelleux (literally ‘like marrow’, referring to the fleshy texture, and pronounced ‘mwah-lurr’) with between 40 and 60 g/l of sugar, made mainly from grapes dried on the vine (passerillage), as opposed to botrytis. Huet’s Moelleux can be surprisingly fine and delicate wines of filigree lightness—think of a great Mosel rather than a Sauternes to get an idea of weight. They match brilliantly with cheeses and a range of savoury meat dishes. Only the richest years can work with fruit and tart based desserts (but ideally nothing too sweet). Occasionally, in the top years the sweeter Première Trie level is made from a berry-by-berry selection of the very ripest (often botrytis affected) grapes. Even at this level, the balance is dumbfounding—these mouth-watering, racy, transparent wines are simply outstanding.

Finally, we come to the “super Cuvée”, Cuvée Constance, which is only made in the greatest sweet wine years from a blend of the most concentrated, botrytised fruit from all of Huet’s most famous vineyards. Truly, this is one of the outstanding sweet wines of the world and is best served with dessert or cheese.

2017 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont

96 Points

53 g/L. A beauty, with an inviting display of succulent yellow apple, green plum, pear, persimmon and quince flavors that ripples through the long finish, while light verbena, ginger and honeysuckle notes dart around. A long green tea echo runs through the finish. Shows terrific range and purity, with the sweetness easily harnessed for balance.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

2016 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Clos du Bourg

97 Points

A stunner, with beautiful pear, green fig, yellow apple and quince notes that are creamy and sweet, yet seamless and refined in feel. The extremely long finish lets honeysuckle and verbena notes dance throughout, with a light echo of white ginger at the very end. Best from 2020 through 2040.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

17 Points

RS 57 g/l. Peach and apricot yoghurt, lovely floral character, medium-bodied palate yet with loads of fleshiness and generosity from the sweetness.

Jancis Robinson

Première Trie

Moelleux Primière Trie – the first picking of botrytised berries, yes that’s right a berry by berry selection … think Yquem. It produces a wine with residual sugar of about 60-100 g/lt and yet also with very high acidity.

2016 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Clos du Bourg

96 Points

This is ripe and broad, taking a slightly more power-driven approach, with a mix of tropical mango and papaya fruit, backed by orchard fruit accents of yellow apple and peach. The long, heather honey-accented finish has light piecrust and crystalized ginger hints. Best from 2020 through 2035.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

17.5 Points

RS 84 g/l. Crystallised citrus and floral scent, preserved lemon fruit on the palate. Long, sweet finish and there isn't quite as much flavour complexity here as on the 'basic' Clos du Bourg Moelleux - but it will doubtless come with age.

Jancis Robinson

2015 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Clos du Bourg


For the first time since 1997, the Première Trie Clos du Borg was made with a large degree of botrytised berries, bringing supplementary complexity and mouth feel. finishing with 112g/l residual sugar, it’s deep and vibrant, oozing brightness and structure. On the nose, subtle floral notes and aromas of apricot and orange rind set the tone, while the mouth feel is unctuous yet racy with an endless finish.

96 Points

The dark golden-colored 2015 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux Première Trie is super ripe and intense, yet precise and mineral on the nose where orange and dusty flavors are displayed along with some caramel flavors. Intense and juicy, with a concentrated and sweet, yet vital and elegant fruit, this Chenin has vibrant acidity. This is a full-bodied, well structured, persistent and powerful Chenin with a sweetness that is almost fully integrated. The finish is enormously vivacious and firm, and reveals a stimulating minerality.

Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate #227

19 Points

Already spicy and honeyed on the nose. Jaw-dropping concentration allied to incredible freshness, with complex fruit flavours ranging from quince through pear to mandarin. Succulent, rich and so long.

Jancis Robinson

2017 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Le Mont

97 Points

77 g/L. This sports a flamboyant edge, with apple crumble, ginger cream, quince paste, green tea and honeysuckle notes forming a wide panoply of aromas and flavors, while sweet and racy accents contrast, creating a lengthy finish where everything hangs in harmony. A stunning show of fruit and precision.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

2016 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Le Mont

96 Points

Juicy in feel, with an intense beam of glazed peach, dried apricot, fresh ginger and heather honey notes, backed by baked mirabelle plum accents and a flash of almond cream on the long, rich finish. A wonderful balancing act, keeping the exotic fruit and sweetness fresh and delineated. Best from 2020 through 2035.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

17.5 Points

RS 92 g/l. Floral, supercharged fruit with lemon tart and apple crumble flavours. Extravagant and fresh and a relentless finish of baked apple, honey and sweet spices.

Jancis Robinson

2015 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Le Mont

98 Points

The 2015 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie is super clear, ripe and aromatic on the nose, highly elegant and with lovely flinty flavors. Intense and concentrated, with great finesse and vitality, this is a highly elegant and perfectly balanced wine with a persistent grip and salinity. Great balance and harmony.

Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate #227

2015 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Constance

The pinnacle of Huet’s production was named after Gaston Huet’s mother, Constance. It’s only made in the greatest sweet wine vintages and this 2015 is the first Cuvée Constance since the 2009. It’s made from a blend of the most concentrated botrytised fruit from all three of Huet’s big-ticket vineyards; Le MontLe Haut-Lieu and Clos du Bourg. 2015 is certainly one of those ‘greatest, sweet wine vintages’. This was raised half in used demi-muid, half in stainless, and finished fermenting with 142 g/L and 11.5% ABV. We have been fortunate enough to try the wine on a number of occasions now and cannot find enough superlatives to describe adequately. It is ultra-refined, incredibly complex for such a young wine, and a remarkable exercise in sugar/acid equilibrium. Pure, intense and ethereal, the wine offers a refreshing finish that belies its power. Although it is a sweet wine, the style is closer to the great sweet wines of the Mosel rather than those of Sauternes or Alsace. It floats across the palate. It will live for at least another four decades, and yet it is a joy to drink now. In short, even if you rarely drink sweet wines, you will never regret having this in your cellar.

99 Points

This is stunning from the start, with a silky and refined feel despite the panoply of dried quince, fig, pear and apricot flavors that are exotic in nature. Lovely green tea, orange blossom and persimmon notes fill in the background. Obviously sweet, but with persistent dry almond and orange extract details that lend latent tension through the seamless and nearly endless finish. The first Cuvée Constance bottling since the 2009 vintage.

James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

Winery Direct Museum Releases

1996 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Le Mont

What a special wine to be able to offer – some 20 years old and just hitting its straps. Noël Pinguet considered 1996 as a great, ‘classical’ vintage for Huet and this wine (bottled with 67 grams residual) is dancing and singing to the same tune. Expect beautifully integrated flavours of lime marmalade and toasted brioche and scintillatingly pure, filigree acidity. The note below says it all. Dazzling. “A fine and polished hue here, with a bright golden shimmer to the wine. It has a beautiful nose, which opens up over an hour or so to reveal a fine, minerally, stony character and this comes with an impressively broad crunch of golden fruit. This is close to ethereal, sweet and lightly toasted, and it seems to promise much. On the palate these early thoughts hold true, the wine showing a beautiful sweetness and also brightness; it has a fine dancing character, gentle but very well framed flesh giving it a supple, easy, accessible style. Around this there sits plenty of lovely grip, and it is all underpinned by a fresh acidity. We have notes of sweet, sugar-tinged dessert apples, almond paste, and a lick of lanolin to it as well, but these elements are very subtle, there is far more soft sweetness to it.

18.5 Points

Multilayered, with delightfully classic Vouvray notes of honey, straw and crushed rocks. Overall, this is long, grippy and quite mineral. A glorious wine.. Dec 2011

Chris Kissack, thewinedoctor.com

1995 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Clos du Bourg


A sunny, late maturing vintage that produced wines similar in style to the outstanding ’02s and ’09’s. The top Vouvray estates crafted delicious wines; gloriously textured, honeyed and yet vibrantly fresh with quite a good proportion of botrytis.

92 Points

The nose is closed at first, but opens up nicely with tangerine, wet wool, dried lemon peel and a touch of dried honey. Good definition with commendable vigour. The palate is very well balanced with a sensuous, viscous texture, very focused and surprisingly understated and 'dainty' towards the finish, the acidity perfectly in synch with the sweetness, almost cancelling each other out. Wonderful.

Neal Martin, Wine Journal, Sept 2010

1990 Huet Vouvray Moelleux Première Trie Haut Lieu

Another gift from the ever diminishing Huet cellars. Along with the preceding 1989 vintage, 1990 was a superlative sweet wine year. All three Moelleux Première Trie were released, and very little else (an incredibly rare situation that could only occur in a truly profound vintage). Unlike in 1989, however, when the sweet wines took their character from passillerage, 1990 was one of the rare, heavy botrytis years, à la 1947 and 1997. All the Première Trie wines from this vintage are therefore 100% botrytis and this cuvée is showing the kind of deep, glowing fruit that such year’s offer with age. The natural richness of the year is tempered by intriguing and thought provoking, savoury complexity as well as the haunting grace and brightness that are the hallmarks of ‘middle-aged’ Huet Première Trie. Dec 2014

93 Points

Rich golden amber. Poached pear, peppermint and vanilla on the seductive nose, with a hint of nut oil to complicate the enormous presence of brown-spice botrytis. Glazed apricot and acacia honey provide a luscious texture that is stimulated by the wine's bright acidity and insistent chalky ring. Luxuriant but nonetheless elegant, with an unending spicy finish. This is a lovely interpretation of late-harvest chenin blanc that has just reached puberty.

Joel B. Payne, Vinous


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