AP de Villaine ~ Comte Georges de Vogüé
Domaine d’Eugenie ~ Ballot-Millot ~ Jacques Carillon
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The Domaines
2023 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé due Now
2023 & 2022 Grand Cru Domaine d’Eugenie due Nov/Dec
2023 & 2022 top end Domaine A et P de Villaine due September
2023 Domaine Jacques Carillon due October
2022 Domaine Ballot-Millot due Now
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé ☝︎ Index
Check out or existing Comte Georges de Vogüé + Explore the Domaine in Full Detail
Comte Georges de Voguë with Georges Roumier on his right shoulder in Berret!
The de Vogüé family can lay claim to being the oldest winemaking family in Burgundy, with roots going back more than 500 years and with more than 20 generations having worked on the Domaine. The 20th century part of their tenure began with Georges de Vogüé who was in the driving seat from 1925, until his death in 1987. For the most part, these were good years for the Domaine, although in the latter part of his life aggressive chemical treatments applied to his vineyards drew criticism and led to weaker vintages overall through the 1970s and 1980s, which though criticised as too diluted, still had hefty price tags.
Upon Georges’ death he was succeeded by his only daughter, Elisabeth, who grabbed the bull by the horns and succeeded in turning things around through the hiring of a new winemaker, as well as sales and marketing team. In doing so, a new, gentler nature-led philosophy came to hold sway over the Domaine and this is continued today by the current owners – the granddaughters of Georges de Vogüé. They have continued their mother’s work in bringing the wines of this relatively small estate to global prominence.
The fascinating history and links with the Roumier family have been explored by Bill Nanson in his profile of the Domain.
In the Vineyard
The estate owns some 80 percent of grand cru Le Musigny, and a significant portion of grand cru Bonnes-Mares. Its premier cru Chambolle-Musigny is crafted exclusively from younger-vine fruit in Musigny; its Bourgogne Blanc is crafted from younger-vine Chardonnay grown also in Musigny (which may soon be born again as a Musigny Blanc).
Vineyards are cared for essentially according to organic principles, although the estate is not certified. Beneficial herbs are planted between vineyard rows to control pests; vineyards are plowed by horse; the estate makes its own organic compost.
In the Winery
Current winemaker, Jean Lupatelli, took over from François Millet in 2021. His first 2 vintages have been handled with great aplomb and we are seeing the results in the glass.
The 2023 Vintage at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
From Neal Martin, Vinous
“It was a hot vintage with rain at the right moments, so the vines did not suffer as they had in 2022,” winemaker Jean Lupatelli tells me. He took over from François Millet in 2021 and has chartered a different course than his predecessor. “So, it was an easier season. We were surprised to see nature so generous. We were strict on green harvesting and in some parts, we took away half the crop. We have a larger vintage than usual with an average of 34 hl/ha. We started picking on September 6 whilst we had hot weather. An important factor is the phenolic ripeness, which I saw about three weeks before the picking and when we did the first pressing of the samples. The juice pigmented very easily and the pips and stems were ripe. This allowed me to be gentle on the extraction, mainly remontage instead of pigeage. You can see high amounts of polyphenols, but you can’t really taste that. The vinification was normal. We started working with whole clusters in 2021 and when you pressed, the last three or four grams of sugar were quite stressful [in terms of fermenting to dryness]. We have a new stainless steel winery which is helpful for that. Overall, I think 2023 is better than 2022 – I love the freshness we have in the wine.”
From William Kelley
The renaissance at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé continues, underlined by a beautifully sensual and perfumed 2023 portfolio. As I wrote last year, Jean Lupatelli took the reins at Comte de Vogüé with the 2021 vintage. Under the previous direction, which began with the 1986 vintage, the de Vogüé wines could often be chunky and unyielding. Lupatelli has changed all that, revising every aspect of the winemaking process. The management of harvest itself seems to be a critical step, and in 2021, he abandoned the use of large gondolas to transport the grapes from the vineyard to the winery, replacing them with small cases. There’s not a new sorting table, but the domaine’s must pump has been banished in favor of filling tanks by gravity. All this means that the fruit is being handled much more gently. Cooperage choices are being refined, and a new racking tank has been acquired to permit proper blending before bottling so that there is one, consistent cuvée; and of course, the details of the bottling process itself are being revised. In the vineyards, a program of gradual replanting continues.
RED
2023 Chambolle-Musigny $600
2023 BONNES-MARES Grand Cru $1,700
2023 MUSIGNY Vielles Vignes Grand Cru $2,260
RED REVIEWS
Chambolle-Musigny
The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Village was one of the last to be picked, on September 13. It has a strict bouquet at first, with blackberry, briar and light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and fine depth. It is not the most complex Chambolle Village, though I like the lick of licorice toward the finish. Drink this over the next decade.
Neal Martin, Vinous 88-90 Points
Aromas of sweet raspberries, cherries and blood orange introduce the 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Village, a medium-bodied, pure and supple wine that’s lively and melting, with juicy acids and a saline finish.
William Kelley 89-91 Points
BONNES-MARES
The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an understated but fragrant bouguet, with wilted iris and violet petals infusing the detailed black and blueberry fruit. The palate is so much better than the 2022-much more intense and complex, with fine tannins and insistent grip. An assiduous touch of white pepper lingers in the mouth. Very harmonious and assured, this is a great Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé. This is destined to give 20 years of drinking pleasure. De Vogüé’s Bonnes-Mares is back.
Neal Martin, Vinous 95-97 Points
This is almost excessively fragrant—in a good way, were that possible. Summer flowers, cherry coulis and black currants get the nose started. Impressively, the vintage’s fruit generosity gives this unusual amplitude this year. Rather than being compact and turned in on itself (after all, this comes exclusively from red soils), it’s as though it is reaching out to invite you in. The fruit is almost cuddly in its suppleness. Wispy lacings of minerality fleck the wine from start to finish. These 60-65 year old vines turned out an especially impressive and expressive cuvée this year.
Tim Atkins 95 Points
The 2023 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is a success, offering up aromas of cherries, sweet red berries, iris and vine smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that’s elegantly rich and textural, with sweet tannins and a saline, perfumed finish.
William Kelley 93-94 Points
MUSIGNY Vielles Vignes
I tasted the 2023 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru both as components from the seven different cuvées that make the final blend and as an approximation of the final blend itself. This has exquisite delineation on the nose: blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone and touches of undergrowth-very harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied. tightly wound and linear, with a sense of symmetry on the entry. But of all the Musigny tasted from barrel in 2023, this has perhaps the most nascent freshness, tension and complexity on the finish. A sense of completeness. Outstanding.
Neal Martin, Vinous 97-99 Points
Deeply colored, the flavors and structure are just as imposing. The richness of the year is clearly imprinted on the wine, as is the winemaking know-how. Black cherry and blueberry compote, incense, woodsy spice and musk drive this impressive aromatic dimension. The tannins are firm, brooding and somewhat strapping, and they are nicely matched by vivacious, bustling acidity. Crafted with the utmost precision, Jean always separates out seven parcels and usually has one or two of mixed vines. This simply needs time, as the wines of this cellar typically do.
Tim Atkins 97 Points
The 2023 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, which we tasted from a variety of sub-parcels, is very promising, mingling aromas of dark berries and cherries with notions of orange zest, rose petals, incense and iris. Medium to full-bodied, cool and layered, with a rich core of fruit framed by ultra-refined tannins, it’s suave and harmonious, with a long, fragrant finish. This accomplished Musigny only confirms that de Vogüé is performing on a high level today.
William Kelley 95-96 Points
Domaine d’Eugenie ☝︎ Index
Having been bought by Artémis Domaines after the untimely death of Philippe Engel in 2005, a new chapter is about to unfold as the domaine incorporates Bouchard Pères’ holdings in the Côte de Nuits.
Long-time régisseur Michel Mallard is leaving to return to his family domaine in Ladoix as of the end of the year. He introduced me to his replacement, the oenologist Jaeok Chu Cramette (better known simply as Jae Chu). She hails from Korea and has held a variety of posts in the wine world since 2002, including an internship at Eugénie with Mallard between 2009 and 2011, then as a full-time employee of Eugénie between 2015 and 2019 and finally as director of the Artemis Domaines’ holding of Château Grillet between 2019 and 2024 before being appointed as the head of Eugénie. In other changes, and as reported in Issue 94, Bouchard Père & Fils (another Artemis holding) is transferring most of its holdings in the Côte de Nuits to Eugénie; these include the vineyards of Bonnes Mares (.24 ha), Chambertin (.15 ha) and the Gevrey 1er Cazetiers (.30 ha); readers can consult Issue 94 for more detail.
The 2022 Vintage at Domaine d’Eugenie
From Burghound
Régisseur Michel Mallard told me that the 2022 “growing season was the hottest and driest on record yet the vines suffered no hydric stress to speak of. The only explanation that I can think of is that the massive June rainstorm dropped so much water that is was enough to allow the vines to properly ripen the fruit while not dropping their leaves in the process. We were lucky but I’ll take it! We picked from the 27th of June and the fruit was reasonably clean though it did require light sorting. Yields were very good if not actually high in absolute term at between 35 and 45 hl/ha. With that said though, they are the highest we have ever produced since the domaine was founded. Potential alcohols were also very good and ranged between 12.8 and 13.5%. We used a bit more whole clusters this year, which is to say from 30 to 100%, which is higher for example than in 2021 where we used between 20 and 75%. As to the quality, at the risk of engaging in hyperbole, I really like this vintage and these could be the best wines we have ever made.” I agree with Mallard that the domaine’s 2022s are indeed impressive.
The 2023 Vintage at Domaine d’Eugenie
From Burghound
With respect to the 2023 vintage, the Mallard/Chu duo noted that “it was a year of abundance as we went through our vineyards three times to drop fruit and even with this care, yields still came in as the most we have ever made! We picked between the 1st and 9th of September and there was a lot of sorting required for various reasons but in particular to guard against acetic acid taint due to the Suzukii flies. We did a light saignée (bleeding of the must) just to add a bit of density while using between 15 and 80% whole clusters for the vinifications. As to the wines, we are frankly very pleasantly surprised by the quality given the yields. They’re fresh, perfumed and wines of finesse while offering good terroir transparency. There’s no reason that they shouldn’t age well, particularly since we think they’re well-balanced.”
WHITE
2023 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Perclos” $290
2023 MEURSAULT “Porusots” Premier Cru $655
RED
2023 VOSNE-ROMANEE $275
2023 VOSNE-ROMANEE “Clos d’Eugenie” Village (Monopole) $395
2023 VOSNE-ROMANEE “Aux Brulees” Premier Cru 750ml $780 Magnum $1,600
2022 CLOS de VOUGEOT Grand Cru 750ml $1,210 Magnum $2,500
2022 ECHEZEAUX Grand Cru $1,300
2022 GRANDS ECHEZEAUX Grand Cru $1,600
WHITE REVIEWS
2023 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Perclos”
The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Perclos, which had just been racked at the time of this tasting, has a light, slightly resinous bouquet that just needs more vigor. The palate is fresh on the entry with hints of honeydew melon and peach skin, fine acidity and more body on the finish. It finishes on a high.
Neal Martin, Vinous 87-89 Points
2023 MEURSAULT “Porusots” Premier Cru
The 2023 Meursault Porusots ler Cru comprises just 200 bottles this year due to hail, so only 15% of the fruit was used. It has a light, malic bouquet with touches of wet stone, though I would like more DNA of the appellation to be expressed. The palate offers tropical notes of passion fruit and mango on the entry and fine acidity. It is not complex, but the flavors are much more pronounced than the aromatics at the moment.
Neal Martin, Vinous 88-90 Points
RED REVIEWS
2023 VOSNE-ROMANEE
A blend of 1/3 Les Vigneux and 2/3 declassified fruit from the lower portion of the 1er Aux Brûlées
A fresh, spicy and airy nose is comprised mostly of red berry fruit aromas. The succulent, refined and delicious middle weight flavors possess good punch while displaying hint of minerality and bitter pit fruit on the lingering finale. 2029+
Allen Meadows, Burghound 88-90 Points
The 2023 Vosne-Romanée Village comes from the same parcels as usual with no SO2 addition. It had been racked the previous week. The 2023 has a light nose that needs a little more delineation-a little too light, even, given this is a Village Cru. The palate is well balanced with crunchy red fruit, a crisp line of acidity and an open-knit finish. It just needs more body and complexity.
Neal Martin, Vinous 86-88 Points
2023 VOSNE-ROMANEE “Clos d’Eugenie” Village
A monopole measuring .57 ha
A more floral and more elegant nose speaks of red cherry, violet and exotic tea scents. There is slightly better vibrancy to the bigger and slightly richer, if less mineral inflected flavors that conclude in a youthfully austere and sneaky long finale that is just a bit firmer. 2030+
Allen Meadows, Burghound 88-91 Points
The 2023 Vone-Romanée le Clos d’Eugénie includes 40% whole bunch this year. It has more intensity than the regular Village with brambly red fruit, briar and light tobacco scents. Fresh and open, the palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit and a keen line of acidity, though it needs a little more body on the finish. This will drink well in its flush of youth and should fill out during the remainder of its élevage.
Neal Martin, Vinous 89-91 Points
2023 VOSNE-ROMANEE “Aux Brulees” Premier Cru
The 2023 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées ler Cru, matured in five new barrels out of nine and includes 50% whole bunch. That decision works out because I find the stem ratio proportionate to the fruit-more would have risked overwhelming the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, silky-smooth texture, fine acidity and a harmonious, poised finish. Vivid and alluring.
Neal Martin, Vinous 93-95 Points
2022 CLOS de VOUGEOT
From a 1.37 ha parcel of 60+ year old vines situated close to the Château
There is slightly more wood influence apparent on the ripe yet ultra-fresh nose that blends notes of poached plum and black cherry with those of newly turned earth and a smoky hint. The wood can also be found on the caressing yet powerful larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract that also helps to buffer the firm tannic spine shaping the impressively long, youthfully austere and compact finale. This is a big wine even by the standards of CV and a wine that’s going to require extended keeping. In a word, excellent.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 92-95 Points
The 2022 Clos de Vouget Grand Cru includes 80% whole bunches and matured in 19 new barrels out of a total of 25. This is well defined on the nose with black fruit laced with sea spray/oyster shells. In the first tasting, the stems here are fairly tangible, more so than the Echézeaux, but on the second tasting, it has cohered and the stems are far more assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with a tensile entry, quite structured and with a pleasurable briny/sea spray element. Whilst the first showing was a bit compact, the second demonstrates more depth and flesh, with a lovely dash of black pepper on the aftertaste.
Neal Martin, Vinous 93-95 Points
2022 ECHEZEAUX Grand Cru
From a .55 ha parcel in En Orveaux with vines planted in 1924 and 1979
Here too there is a subtle oak influence to the spiced plum and wonderfully broad array of floral elements, especially violet and rose petal. The lilting and refined middleweight flavors possess outstanding punch while retaining impeccable balanced on the superbly long finish that is supported by dense but fine-grained tannins. This is terrific and is an Ech of finesse.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 92-95 Points
The 2022 Echézeaux Grand Cru includes 80% whole bunches like the Aux brûlées but they are much less evident and here the terroir floods through: red berry fruit, potpoury and light loamy aromas. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant, finely chiseled tannins, clean and precise with a linear, “cool” finish. This should age very well in bottle and retains a sense of classicism that l appreciate. Tasted twice a month apart with consistent notes.
Neal Martin, Vinous 93-95 Points
2022 GRANDS ECHEZEAUX Grand Cru
From a .50 ha parcel with vines that range from 20 to 60 years of age with the average being about 25+ years old
A panoply of floral influences is present on the pure and ultra-fresh nose of various red berries, clove, hoisin, violet and exotic tea. There is more size, weight and richness to the more powerful if less refined broad-shouldered flavors that conclude in a compact, serious and built-to-age finale where a touch of menthol character slowly emerges.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 92-94 Points
The 2022 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru also includes 80% whole bunches this year and the stems here are seamlessly integrated into the black fruit. Fine mineralité and focus, touches of flint emerging with time, a pinch of iris flower. On the second tasting, a month later, the aromatics come across more nuanced and complex. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, crushed stone and a hint of liquorice in the background. Quite a “serious” Grands Echézeaux, the second tasting a month after the first reveals more Pinoté and pixelation on the finish, also the tannins less obdurate and more filigree. It will require several years in bottle but it is a well-crafted Grands Echézeaux.
Neal Martin, Vinous 95-97 Points
Domaine A et P de Villaine ☝︎ Index
From Kermit Lynch
Aubert de Villaine deserves the accolades he receives. He is a reluctant hero, an unlikely trait in a man of such accomplishment, intellect, and inherent sense of noblesse. Heir to one of the most enviable wine legacies of all time, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the young Aubert was more interested in literature and law than wine. After spending time in New York working for an importer of Burgundian wines, he finally returned home in the mid-nineteen sixties to assume his role as co-director of DRC.
In the 1970s, Aubert and his American wife, Pamela, sought less pedigreed pastures to call home. They finally settled in the village of Bouzeron, well-situated between Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, Rully, and Mercurey, in the Côte Chalonnaise. However high profile his day job, Aubert still considers himself a vigneron like any other, and Bouzeron’s off-the-beaten-path location left him alone to make his own wines without the demands of upholding an international reputation. The domaine was horribly rundown when the de Villaines took over, but years of studying this unique terroir have made them pioneers in one of the last forgotten enclaves of Burgundy. The monks of the great abbey of Cluny first planted vines here in the twelfth century, leaving a legacy that has endured for centuries. Consequently, the grape varietal that reigns supreme today is the dry, white Aligoté—an unusual celebrity given its work-horse reputation in the middle of Chardonnay country. Bouzeron boasts the best Aligoté in Burgundy, the Aligoté Doré, (instead of the lesser clone, Aligoté Vert) which gives smaller yields to produce wines with more expressive aromatics. Although the grape was overlooked until 1979 when it first earned the appellation Bourgogne Aligoté de Bouzeron, the I.N.A.O. finally upgraded the appellation to A.O.C. Bouzeron in 1997, largely due to Aubert’s advocacy over the years. Aubert’s single vineyard Bourgognes, both in blanc and rouge, are equally outstanding representations of the unlikely pedigree found in this corner of the region.
The de Villaines farm three appellations within the Côte Chalonaise, namely Bouzeron (Aligoté), Rully (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) and Mercurey (Pinot Noir). Their single-vineyard parcels are stunning examples of what this complex and amazing terroir can yield. Though their wines are quite enjoyable young, their ability to age well is what one might expect from a master such as de Villaine. Much of this is due to both the diversity of his vinestock and his organic and biodynamic methodology in the vineyards, both of which Aubert stands by with great conviction. He also ferments his Mercureys and Rully rouge in wood tanks, a style adopted from DRC.
Pierre de Benoist, Aubert’s nephew, currently directs the domaine, upholding the sense of tradition, excellence, and standards for which it has become so well-known. In 2010, Aubert was awarded Decanter Magazine’s prestigious “Man of the Year” Award, a distinction that, unsurprisingly, the modest Aubert seemed reluctant to accept.
The 2022 Vintage at A et P de Villaine
From Burghound
Aubert de Villaine’s nephew Pierre de Benoist noted that the vineyards under the domaine’s aegis now total 36 ha (up from 18 ha) though only 30 are presently being farmed. He succinctly described the 2022 growing season as “much, much easier than the extremely challenging one that we endured in 2021 where we lost fully 70% of the potential crop through a combination of frost and disease pressure. By contrast, 2022 was hot and dry and largely free of any climatic incidents and remarkably, there wasn’t much disease pressure either. When we finally got to the harvest, for once it was relatively easy to choose the start date as everything was progressively ripening and we didn’t have too many parcels with disparate maturity levels. Moreover, and as luck would have it, the picking conditions were excellent and I have rarely seen such high quality fruit. Quantities were good but not high and the potential alcohols were really quite moderate for the chardonnay, for example, they came in right at 13% though the reds were as high as 14%. There were no problems with the vinifications and overall, 2022 is an excellent vintage and in both colors. For the reds, I would put the quality levels on a par with both 1999 and 2005, which is saying something! For the whites, I haven’t decided what vintage they might reasonably resemble but whatever it is, it’s a good one!” Benoist noted that the 2022 whites were bottled in January 2024 and the reds between February and March 2024. Benoist typically presents his upper level wines only after they’ve been in bottle at least one year but based on the entry level 2022s, they seem quite promising.
WHITE
2023 BOUZERON Aligoté $113ea
2023 RULLY “Les St Jacques” Blanc $114ea
2022 SAINT-AUBIN Blanc “Les Perrieres” 1er Cru $235ea
2022 RULLY Blanc “Gresigny”1er Cru $227ea
2022 RULLY Blanc “Les Margotes”1er Cru $227ea
2022 RULLY Blanc “Rabource”1er Cru $227ea
2022 RULLY Blanc “Montpalais”1er Cru $227ea
2022 RULLY Blanc “Cloux”1er Cru $227ea
RED
2023 BOURGOGNE ROUGE “La Digoine” $142ea
2023 MERCUREY “Les Montots” $145ea
2022 RULLY ROUGE “Cloux”1er Cru $227ea
2022 RULLY ROUGE “Les Champs Cloux”1er Cru $227ea
WHITE REVIEWS
2023 BOUZERON Aligoté
The 2023 Bouzeron has a vivacious nose that boldly declares, “I am Aligoté!” The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity and beautiful weight in the mouth, featuring hints of lemon curd, white peach and Anjou pear toward the poised finish. You’ll find few Bouzerons better than this.
Neal Martin, Vinous 91 Points
RED REVIEWS
2023 MERCUREY “Les Montots”
The 2023 Mercurey Les Montots offers a delectable bouquet with vivacious dark cherries and raspberry fruit that soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, compact in style with a surprisingly structured finish that suggests it will benefit from a couple of years in the bottle. Very fine.
Neal Martin, Vinous 89+ Points
Domaine Jacques Carillon ☝︎ Index
The Carillon family domain has a surface of 11ha, through ‘Louis Carillon and Sons’, created in 1981. At present Jacques and François Carillon are the joint managers. The domaine ‘Francois-Carillon’ is the legacy of the Carillon family. Established in Puligny-Montrachet in the sixteenth century. The logo currently in use was found on an engraved stone in 1632 in a cave of the village.
After completing his studies at the winemaking school in Beaune, France, Jacques Carillon joined his father in the family vineyard in 1980. His specializations include winemaking and marketing.
In 2010, Jacques and his wife Sylvia founded the Jacques Carillon vineyard with 5.25 hectares of vines, primarily in the village of Puligny-Montrachet.
The wines of Carillon are regarded in the elite of the great white wines of Burgundy. Celebrated by critics and found on the map of prestigious restaurants around the world, Domaine Carillon produces white wines that are racy, elegant, fruity while embodying perfectly the terroir of Chardonnay.
The 2023 Vintage at Jacques Carillon
From Burghound
Jacques Carillon (brother of François – see above) runs this 5.2 ha domaine, and briefly described the 2023 growing season as “one that was relatively straightforward as there wasn’t much disease pressure or climatic incidents. It was sufficiently warm that some of the younger vines did suffer a few periods of hydric stress but there was just enough periodic rainfall to avoid anything serious. The flowering was both rapid and uniform, which almost always results in a large fruit set, which is exactly what occurred in 2023. Maturities though were slow to arrive, and given the large crop, we began to worry whether they were going to be sufficient.
Thankfully, there was a two and a half week period of intense heat that caused maturities to shoot up. We picked between the 2nd and 8th of September and brought in very good yields of between 45 and 50 hl/ha as the fruit was particularly clean so it required very little sorting. Potential alcohols were also good without being unduly high as they ranged from 13 to 13.5%.
I had no problems with the vinifications and the malos preceded relatively quickly. As to the style of the ’23s, they remind me quite a bit of our 1973s, which was another vintage of higher than normal yields that has aged exceptionally well.” I tasted a number of ’73s when they were released way back in the day and if memory serves, they were a little brighter and with better acid levels than the 2023s but Carillon is right that well-stored ’73s are still drinking extremely well. I have pointed this out before but it’s worth emphasizing again that Carillon has raised his free SO2 level to <50 milligrams in the hopes of preventing, or at least ameliorating, the problem of premature oxidation. However, levels this high can usually be detected in the wines for the first two years or so after bottling. Thus, if you want to try any of the Carillon wines young, I would strongly advise decanting them.
From William Kelley
Jacques Carillon picked early September 2023, producing a crop of rather rich, generous wines that’s more open-knit and less concentrated than his 2022s. As usual, Carillon pressed whole bunches, decanted and fermented in barrels, the majority of which are supplied by Tonnellerie Mercurey (a pioneer of lighter toasts adapted to riper vintages), along with cameos from Rémond, Séguin Moreau, François Frères, Atelier Centre France, Billon and Bouttes. After a year in barrel, the wines spend six months in tank (the first enamel steel tanks arrived here in 1959, and stainless steel began supplanting them beginning in 1973) before bottling. It’s a recipe that hasn’t changed in a long time, in the cellars or in the vineyards, and the results are classic examples of the genre. Carillon’s wines are all bottled under natural cork with plenty of sulfites.
WHITE
2023 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET $245
2023 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET $219
2023 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Les Champs Canet” Premier Cru $444
2023 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Les Perrieres” Premier Cru $444
Importer Restriction
NOTE: Purchases of Premier Cru MUST include Village wines as well (ratio of 1 Premier Cru to 3 Village)
*** DUE TO REDUCED AVAILABILITIES THIS RATIO WILL BE STRICTLY ADHERED TO ***
WHITE REVIEWS
2023 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET
From 11 different parcels in 7 lieux-dits scattered about Puligny with an overall average vine age of approximately 40+ years
A slightly more elegant nose features bright and fresh aromas of just sliced citrus, acacia and poached pear. The delicious and energetic, if not especially dense, middle weight flavors possess a finer mouthfeel before terminating in a tension-filled, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish. This could use better depth so a few years of keeping are suggested.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 88-91 Points 2028+
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Village is fleshy and demonstrative, bursting with aromas of sweet orchard fruit, bread dough and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it’s a giving, open-knit wine.
William Kelly, The Wine Advocate 88-90 Points
2023 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
From young vines in Les Voillenots Dessus that were replanted in 2013
Cool aromas include those of Granny Smith apple, rosemary oil, petrol and a hint of lemon zest. The sleek and delicious flavors possess good verve, if only average density, while displaying solid length on the balanced, dry and bitter citrus-inflected finale.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 88-90 Points 2027+
The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Village offers up aromas of peach, orange oil and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that’s giving and open-knit.
William Kelly, The Wine Advocate 86-88 Points
2023 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Les Champs Canet”
40+ year old vines
A discreet application of oak sets off markedly floral-suffused white orchard fruit aromas. Once again there is a strikingly lovely texture to the generously proportioned medium weight flavors that deliver excellent length on the balanced finale. Like several wines in the range, this too could use better depth so some patience is recommended. With that said, Chapms Canet almost always drinks well young so if you’re going to pull a Carillon ’23 to try, this would be a good choice.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-93 Points 2029+ ♥ Outstanding
Aromatic and expressive, the 2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet delivers aromas of orange blossom, peach and honey, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and unctuous palate that’s textural and enveloping.
William Kelly, The Wine Advocate 88-90 Points
2023 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Les Perrieres”
From a 1.2 ha parcel of 35+ year old vines
Smoky aromas of freshly sliced Granny Smith apple, mineral reduction, spice, zest and elegant acacia blossom scents are complemented by the beautifully textured and solidly concentrated medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that helps buffer the bright lemon-tinged acidity supporting the compact, chiseled and stony finale.
Allen Meadows, Burghound 91-93 Points 2030+ ♥ Outstanding
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières reveals aromas of white flowers, peach, crisp orchard fruits and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless palate that’s layered and soft, with a nicely saline finish.
William Kelly, The Wine Advocate 90-92 Points
Domaine Ballot-Millot ☝︎ Index
Charles Ballot is a passionate, fulfilled and happy man. He is the heir to a very old family estate in Meursault, where he represents the sixteenth generation of operators since 1630. Charles Ballot has enthusiastically taken up the torch of this prestigious wine heritage for twenty years.
He was born at the Domaine, he grew up at the Domaine, he lives for the Domaine. Since his earliest childhood, he has breathed enchantingly the woody smell of barrels, the winey scents, the scents of the undergrowth of the family cellars.
His first steps, he took them in the middle of the imposing vats and aligned barrels, the first words he heard belong to the vocabulary of tasting.
He fondly remembers his hours spent in the cellar with his father, by the light of the portable lamp; together they washed away the thunderbolts, racked up, oozed out. This is where Charles took his first wine-making and tasting lessons…
No wonder he never wondered about his future …
Respectful of his exceptional heritage and concerned about preserving the environment, Charles Ballot, who is certain to switch to organic farming in the near future, combines traditional family methods with modern viticulture and winemaking techniques. The vines are plowed, chemical weeding is prohibited, and treatments are sparse. Do not abuse the soil, do not stress the vines, listen to it, these are its constant precepts. Each new year is a questioning, a permanent adaptation to specific climatic conditions. It is this versatility of nature that sweeps away the routine and makes the profession of winegrower fascinating. It forces the winegrower to draw inspiration from his artistic soul …
The 2022 Vintage at Ballot-Millot
From Burghound
Charles Ballot directs this old line domaine of 11.5 ha, of which 75% of the production is white. Ballot describes the 2022 vintage as “having produced surprisingly fresh classically styled wines despite the very hot and dry conditions. It’s also the first time in my career that we both began and ended the harvest in August even though I fear that it may not be the last. The fruit was balanced with just enough acidity and not too much sugar. I attribute this to having just enough rainfall at just the right moments, which enabled all but the youngest vines with less developed root systems to escape hydric stress. Because we basically had no disease pressure, the fruit was super-clean and yields were good at between 40 and 50 hl/ha. Potential alcohols were just about perfect as they ranged from 13 to 13.5%. As to the wines, they’re elegant and balanced with good terroir transparency.” This is a superb set of whites and if you can find them, they’re absolutely worth your attention, indeed every wine in the range is recommended. I would also note that Ballot has changed his cork policy as the Bourgogne and villages wines are stoppered using the Diam brand of composite cork though the 1ers remain stopped with natural cork.
WHITE
2023 BOURGOGNE Chardonnay $87
2022 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot Tête du Clos” Premier Cru $355
2022 MEURSAULT $197
2022 MEURSAULT “Les Criots” $223
2022 MEURSAULT “Les Narvaux” $248
2022 MEURSAULT “Charmes” Premier Cru $444
2022 MEURSAULT “Genevrieres” Premier Cru $495
2022 MEURSAULT “Perrieres” Premier Cru $570
RED
2022 BOURGOGNE Rouge $73
2019 VOLNAY “Santenots” Premier Cru $217
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 83 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Ballot-Millot et Fils (Meursault)
2022 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot Tete de Clos” Blanc
There is a whiff of the exotic present in the form of tangerine-suffused aromas of white peach, freshly sliced citrus, rosemary oil and a floral top note. The succulent, even seductively textured, medium-bodied flavors possess both good volume and excellent density, indeed the mouthfeel is rich to the point of opulence, that culminates in a borderline tannic and hugely long finale. This isn’t refined but it nonetheless offers much to like plus it too should age effortlessly for a decade or more. ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound 91-94 Points
2022 MEURSAULT
More subtle nuances of petrol and smoke are present on the nose of Granny Smith apple and mineral reduction. The fresh, bright and racy medium weight flavors display excellent length on the beautifully textured, balanced, dry and impressively long finale. This is excellent and worth checking out. ♥ Outstanding Top value
Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-92 Points
2022 MEURSAULT “Les Criots”
There is a touch of the exotic in the form of white and yellow peach, citrus confit and discreet spice and floral wisps. The rich, caressing and sappy flavors are also shaped by bright lemon-tinged acidity on the markedly stony, complex and sneaky long finale. This is also an excellent villages that is worth considering. ♥ Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-92 Points
2022 MEURSAULT “Les Narvaux”
A cooler and much more reserved nose somewhat grudgingly reflects notes of green apple, lemon, mineral reduction and acacia blossom hints. Once again there is a lovely texture to the overtly stony and precise middleweight flavors that exhibit excellent length on the clean and markedly dry finale. This is a classic Narvaux and while it’s not especially refined, it is exceptionally good for its level. Buy it. ♥ Outstanding Top value
Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-93 Points
2022 MEURSAULT “Charmes” 1er Cru
From a parcel in Charmes Dessus that abuts Puligny
A more restrained, and more complex, nose requires aggressive swirling to reveals its aromas of spiced apple, ripe pear compote and cool citrus wisps. Once again there is a gorgeous mouthfeel to the dense and stony medium-bodied flavors that exhibit outstanding length on the balanced and nicely dry finale. This could use more depth but the potential is clearly here. Outstanding. ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound 92-94 Points
2022 MEURSAULT “Genevrieres” 1er Cru
ure and airy aromas display notes of exotic tea, honeysuckle, smoky mineral reduction and white peach. I very much like the sophisticated texture of the lightly stony middleweight flavors that aren’t quite as concentrated but they compensate by being notably finer and particularly so on the youthfully austere, focused and strikingly long finale. This is very classy and a wine to search for as it’s first-rate. ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-92 Points
2022 MEURSAULT “Perrieres” 1er Cru
Smoky aromas of various white orchard fruit scents, citrus confit and a whiff of mineral reduction give way to beautifully textured medium weight flavors that exude a bracing stoniness on the nicely detailed, youthfully austere and beautifully long finale. This is both compact and unusually powerful and a wine that should repay a decade plus of cellaring. This beauty is also well-worth searching for. ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-92 Points
RED REVIEWS
2022 VOLNAY “Santenots” 1er Cru
An ultra-fresh and bright nose freely reveals its aromas of various red berries, spice and a hint of violet. There is fine underlying tension to the delicious if not especially dense middleweight flavors that exude a bead of minerality on the dusty, youthfully austere and lingering finale. Despite not being particularly concentrated, this is a powerful wine all the same that should repay mid-term keeping. ♥ Outstanding
Allen Meadows, Burghound 91 Points
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