Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru 'Les Clos' 2018

Product information

Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’ 2018

Chardonnay from France, Chablis, Burgundy

$1,250

Closure: Cork

Description

“Here the brooding and very restrained nose is certainly ripe yet it’s still almost classic with its aromas of mineral reduction, citrus peel, sea breeze, oyster shell and apple. Once again, the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sleek with outstanding intensity along with abundant minerality while exhibiting excellent power on the dense and serious and bone-dry finish that also displays huge length. I did note just enough backend warmth to mention though otherwise this is superb. Drink 2030+”

Note: from 3 different parcels of 50+ year old vines that total 1.0 ha

Allen Meadows, Burghound

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Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Vincent Dauvissat is considered one of the greatest producers in Chablis. Alongside the similarly esteemed Francois Raveneau, these two producers continue to define great Chablis.

Vincent Dauvissat are world-famous for their coveted holdings in Les Clos, producing wines with incredible levels of expressiveness, depth and complexity. These qualities come from a high percentage of old vines (a 50+ year average); a south-westerly exposure; and a classic Kimmeridgian soil that is mostly clay. Such soils are cool—cooler and retain less heat. They are most sensitive to frost in the spring and the fruit ripens more slowly, meaning more time to develop flavour and concentration. 

About Vincent Dauvissat

Vincent Dauvissat is arguably the finest Domaine in Chablis, owning some of the oldest and best vineyards, including prized sections of the grand crus, Les Clos and Les Preuses. Established in 1931 by Robert Dauvissat, the Domaine has passed down from father to son for three generations. Robert’s son René is to thank for establishing the reputation of the Domaine. Vincent began working with his father, René, in the 1970s and today runs the Domaine.

The Dauvissats remain one of Chablis’ great traditionalists. As the torch has been passed down from generation to generation, little has changed here.

If anything, the wines have become increasingly profound since Vincent officially took reins in 1989. One significant change is his preference for natural farming, using vine treatments sparingly, if at all. In 2002 he oversaw the implementation of biodynamic farming methods. His approach to oak is carefully considered, used to add complexity and dimension to his piercingly mineral concentrated wines; some of barriques are 30+ years old.

They resulting wines are rarely exotic in their youth, tight as drum in fact. But with age – and they do age by gracefully by the decade – they evolve and develop into exciting wines of the sophistication and intrigue.

In the Vineyards

Vincent Dauvissat farms nearly 30 acres of meticulously kept vineyards, following sustainable, organic and biodynamic methods. These vines (4.5 acres of Vaillons, 2 of Séchets, and 9.4 of Fôrets among the Premiers Crus; 2.5 of Preuses and 4.5 of Les Clos among the Grands Crus) are splendidly situated on hillsides underlain by Jurassic limestone. Yields are limited to about 50 hectoliters per hectare (3.7 tons per acre), which is modest by the standards of the region.

Image courtesy of Vinous. Dauvissat’s vines on chalk-rich marl near the top of Les Clos

In the Winery

Vinification at the domaine is painstaking and traditional at a time when many growers in Chablis have adopted methods permitting increased yields producing simple wines that reach maturity quickly. Vincent Dauvissat, on the other hand, gives all his wines at least a year in Nevers oak, a portion of which is new each vintage. This practice, imposed on top-quality grapes slowly and carefully fermented, results in wines that are deep, complex, and long-lived. They are clearly characteristic of their respective cru, exhibiting the steely bite so typical of Chablis, but with a purity, intensity of flavor, and structural soundness increasingly rare in the region’s wines.

The 2018 Vintage at Vincent Dauvissat

The always thoughtful Vincent Dauvissat noted that 2018 was “a much more pleasant surprise than the frost damage we dealt with in 2017. We had an early start to the growing season and while we had yet another frost scare the vines came through it largely unscathed. The flowering passed very well which of course generally makes for a plentiful fruit set. Despite the fact that the summer was exceptionally hot and dry my vines didn’t really suffer much hydric stress. We chose to begin picking on the 3rd of September and brought in very ripe and remarkably clean fruit, in fact it’s rare to have a crop quite so clean everywhere. Volumes were excellent, in fact I would put them at roughly one-third higher than a normal one. Potential alcohols were impressively high at around 13.5% and while acidities were correct if not better than that. Interestingly for a moderately high yield vintage the level of dry extract is palpable and confers a sappy and even at times a chewy character to the wines. The alcoholic fermentations unfolded very slowly though the malos terminated relatively rapidly. As to the style of the 2018s, I would describe as a mix of 1947 and 1959. For readers whose knowledge may not go back quite that far, both ’47 and ’59 were very hot high yield vintages that were considered to have produced great wines in Chablis.”

Allen Meadows, Burghound

The Geology & Geography of Chablis Explored

Where in the World is Vincent Dauvissat

Vincent Dauvissat is located in Chablis. Technically a part of Burgundy, Chablis represents the northern more part of the region and lies to the north of Beaune and to the south of Paris.

The map below shows the location of Dauvissat’s vineyards around Chablis. These include: A – Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Preuses’, B – Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’, C – Chablis Premier Cru ‘Sechet’
D – Chablis Premier Cru ‘Vaillons’, E – Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Forest’.

Click to enlarge.
94 Points

Here the brooding and very restrained nose is certainly ripe yet it's still almost classic with its aromas of mineral reduction, citrus peel, sea breeze, oyster shell and apple. Once again, the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sleek with outstanding intensity along with abundant minerality while exhibiting excellent power on the dense and serious and bone-dry finish that also displays huge length. I did note just enough backend warmth to mention though otherwise this is superb. Drink 2030+

Allen Meadows, Burghound

95+ Points

Aromas of pear, green apple and citrus oil mingling with hints of fresh bread and oyster shell introduce Dauvissat's 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, a full-bodied, layered wine that's ample and elegantly muscular, girdled by bright acids and revealing more overt structure than Les Preuses at this stage. Concluding with a long, chalky finish, even in the demonstrative 2018 vintage, this will merit a bit of patience.

William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

95-97 Points

The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is simply magnificent. In this vintage, all the Clos signatures are kicked up a few notches. Readers will find a dramatic Chablis of grand, sweeping proportions. Lemon confit, white pepper, mint and dried flowers build as this flamboyant, exotic Chablis shows off its curves. The 2018 is simply magnificent. There is not much more I can say than that.

Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Where in the world does the magic happen?

Vincent Dauvissat EARL, Rue Émile Zola, Chablis, France

Chablis
Burgundy
France