The 2022 Barbaresco is a pretty rich, heady wine. Dark cherry/plum fruit, cloves, licorice and mocha build as the 2022 shows o its considerable depth. This is one of the few 2022s that is quite resonant texturally. The aromatics could be more lifted and the tannins could use a bit more polish, but those qualities were next to impossible to come by in 2022. The inclusion of some juice from Riserva lots in a great help. This is a stellar showing. Drink 2027-2034
Grape variety: 100% Nebbiolo Vineyard: various vineyards in the DOCG zone Soil: limestone and clay, rich in calcium with sandy veins Vintage: medium body vintage, bright red fruit and spicy flavours wiith an elegant tannic finish. Vinification: stainless steel tanks, 28 days on the skin at 28°c (80°f). Pumping over 2-3 times a day. Ageing: 20 months in 50HL in large oak casks Bottling date: March 2025
About Produttori del Barbaresco
The wines of Produttori del Barbaresco were my first introduction to Barbaresco. The good bit was being introduced to a producer that is now a staple in my cellar. The bad bit was all of the lesser Barbaresco I tried after that. They had set the bar high!
Barbaresco is often considered the poor cousin to Barolo. That it certainly is not! The benefit for us is the marketing hype around Barolo which is often deserved and sometimes not help keep prices of Barbaresco reasonable. Produttori produces what are undoubtedly some of the best value Barbarescos available today.
Just last week we had a 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco standard next to a 1996 Vietti Riserva Villero – in today’s money $75 vs $750. The Vietti was undoubtedly the superior wine, but, gee the Produttori held it’s own for a wine of the comparative price.
My 1st meeting with Aldo
Aldo Vacca has deftly brought the Produttori del Barbaresco into modern times while making subtle changes to farming and winemaking yet maintaining the traditional style that has made this coop so adored by its rabidly loyal fan base. The changes at Produttori have been gradual to the degree they aren’t always so noticeable, but they are there. No one knows every nook and cranny of Barbaresco better than Aldo Vacca, but Vacca has also proven to be incredibly wise in making choices that have positioned the Produttori for much continued success in the future. I can’t think of too many wines that deliver this much pleasure and value. Antonio Galloni
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The 2022 Vintage at Produttori del Barbaresco
From Produttori del Barbaresco
2022 was characterized from the early stages of winter by unusual weather conditions, with a lack of rainfall and generally mild temperatures.
After a light snowfall (2.0 inches) in early December in Barbaresco, the rest of the winter passed dry. The beginning of the growing season was in line with the average, and what seemed evident from the outset was the lack of reserve water in the soil. Spring continued with fine weather, with only a few millimetres of rainfall (1.0 inch) on May 3rd, which was the only notable precipitation of the entire spring. Due to these conditions, flowering occurred in the last decade of May, about a week earlier than average.
The months of June and July saw a continuation of good weather and high temperatures. Vines self-adjusted to the scarcity of water with reduced vegetative development andrestrained bunch size. This was quite an unusual sight, given that in the Langhe we are accustomed to lush, green vineyard canopies throughout the summer months.
In 2022, the green was noticeably paler, and one could almost feel a lack of vibrancy in the vine rows. On the positive side, there were no issues with fungal attacks, and vineyard management proved relatively simple, with a net decrease in the number of fungicide treatments required. Particularly important was the management of the foliage to cope with the long, sunny summer days, ensuring adequate shading of the clusters and avoiding damage from excessive sun exposure.
The harvest was generally early, though only by about one week for Nebbiolo, once again demonstrating its unique bond with the terroir and its remarkable ability to adapt to extreme conditions better than other grape varieties grown in the region. Harvesting in Barbaresco began on September 22nd and concluded on October 3rd without interruption. Berry size was smaller than average, with a higher skin-to-pulp ratio. This ensured excellent extraction of tannins and aromatics, despite the must showing less intense colour at crushing. In conclusion, despite water stress throughout the season, Nebbiolo was able to produce balanced wines with pleasant fruit and good aromatic richness. Lower-than-average yields and perfect crop health worked in its favour, and Barbaresco 2022 appears destined to pleasantly surprise the palate.
A bit about Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is an incredibly challenging grape variety to grow, make, and, as a consumer, sometimes, to drink and understand.
The name incorporates ‘Nebbia’ or cloud. Driving the vineyard clad hills of Barolo or Barbaresco in Piemonte (at the foot of the mountain), you’ll often find yourself immersed in clouds! A function of the topography and the region being surround by mountains on three sides.
Nebbiolo wines tend to focus more on what we call secondary characters, earthy, truffles, violets, woody herbs, tar. The texture / mouthfeel is a hallmark of Nebbiolo. They can be extremely tannic demanding rich food to balance them, and time in the bottle to soften. No matter the quantity of tannin, the best Nebbiolo wines will always have incredible quality, depth and length of tannin.
The bunches and berries are much larger than most of the French varieties. The colour of Nebbiolo wines can range from deep and dark to rusty tap water! Yet, a pale colour is often no indicator of the depth of flavour or quality of the wine.
A bit about Barbaresco
The area of Barbaresco is only 10min from Barolo, the difference in soil and weather can mean one may have a great year whilst the other is average.
Barbaresco DOCG regulations allow for wine to be released a year earlier than Barolo. Angelo Gaja, perhaps the most famed producer of Barbaresco, has largely chosen to ignore DOCG regulation in the pursuit of excellence. There is perhaps a question over whether marketing or tending of the vineyards and wines is the reason behind their cult status.
Whilst Gaja has been in the limelight wineries like Roagna and Produttori del Barbaresco have been quietly going about the business of making some of the best value Nebbiolo’s available today.
There is no doubt that the great Barbaresco’s are every bit as good as the great Barolo’s.
As a generalisation, Barbaresco tends to be less tannic and more approachable as younger wines. This has absolutely no impact on the ability of Barbaresco to age.
Aldo Vacca on the future of Barbaresco
93 Points
The 2022 Barbaresco is a pretty rich, heady wine. Dark cherry/plum fruit, cloves, licorice and mocha build as the 2022 shows o its considerable depth. This is one of the few 2022s that is quite resonant texturally. The aromatics could be more lifted and the tannins could use a bit more polish, but those qualities were next to impossible to come by in 2022. The inclusion of some juice from Riserva lots in a great help. This is a stellar showing. Drink 2027-2034
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Produttori del Barbaresco S.A.C., Via Torino, Barbaresco, Province of Cuneo, Italy
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