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Chardonnay from Saint-Aubin, France, Côte du Beaune, Burgundy
$248
Both of Pillot’s Saint-Aubin vineyards lie on the east-facing hillside bordering Chassagne Premier Cru Chaumées. This is the end of the Chassagne hillside. The sites are separated from the rest of Saint Aubin by a small valley—the Premier Cru of En Remilly sits on the other side of this valley. It’s a very interesting part of Saint-Aubin, distinct from the terroirs of Domaine Hubert Lamy, for example. Les Charmois sits higher than Les Pitangerets, and although there is plenty of limestone influence, the soils are slightly deeper here. This, and perhaps the more westerly exposition, results in a riper, fruitier and more generous wine than Pitangerets. The Domaine farms just over a hectare of 50-plus-year-old vines, and the wine is raised with just 10% new oak.
“The 2023 Saint-Aubin La Charmois Premier Cru has a fresh nose of dewy meadow, grass clippings and light limestone scents. The palate is well balanced with green apple and freshly squeezed lime, linear yet persistent in the mouth. Top-notch Saint-Aubin ahoy!”
Neal Martin, Vinous 91-93 Points
“The 2023 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Charmois is similarly charming and demonstrative, bursting with aromas of pear and peach mingled with hints of nutmeg and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and sensual, it will offer a broad drinking window.”
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 90-92 Points
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“Thierry Pillot is one of the best young white winemakers in Burgundy right now… Buy these wines before Monsieur Pillot becomes the next Burgundian superstar.”
Tim Atkin MW
“Characterful, elegantly textural and mouthwateringly incisive, these are superb white Burgundies, and to my mind, Pillot is one of a handful of exciting producers who win Chassagne-Montrachet the title of Burgundy’s most interesting white wine producing village today. That he stills flies somewhat under the radar—at least relative to the quality to be found here—is perplexing. What’s more, that’s bound to change, and sooner rather than later, so readers shouldn’t hesitate to buy whatever bottles they can find.”
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Thierry Pillot, well supported by his sister Chrystelle, continues to produce benchmark, pure and intense white Burgundies at his family Domaine. The quality reflects the impressive work in the vines (13 people working 12 hectares of vineyards), as well as incremental evolution in the cellar. Despite the quality and the ever-increasing demand, Thierry and his family remain as humble and discreet as ever: there is no Instagram here!
With each vintage, the wines here get purer and more refined. Thierry is great friends with Vincent Dancer, Marc Bachelet, Arnaud Mortet and many other young guns of Burgundy. He is part of a revolution that has been sweeping through the Côte d’Or: a zeitgeist being driven by a new generation. The wines of his father were always good, in no small part due to the quality of the holdings. However, it is strikingly clear to us, and regular visitors like Allen Meadows, that this invigorated address has well and truly kicked things up a gear and now bears comparison with the very best that the Côte de Beaune has to offer.
The Pillot’s farm first class holdings in some of Chassagne’s greatest vineyards; La Romanée, Les Grandes Ruchottes, Les Caillerets and La Grande Montagne. The Domaine also makes a stunning Clos St-Jean from the heart of the original Clos traditionally called Chassagne du Clos Saint-Jean. The Pillot family owns just over one hectare here—split equally between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—and are, in fact, the largest owners in the Clos.
This is a young grower obsessed with freshness and tension, and alongside the superb density, courtesy of low yields and impeccable farming practices, Pillot’s wines deliver these qualities in spades.
In the cellar, the winemaking is geared towards preserving freshness: this is a Domaine obsessed with tension, and Pillot’s whites deliver these qualities in spades. Thierry prefers to crush his grapes before pressing (for lees) and there is no settling, temperature control or battonage. The grapes simply ferment on high solids and wild yeasts at their own pace. Large-format casks of 350 and 500-litres are the fermenting and aging vessels of choice. The whites are fermented wild and matured for 12-18 months on lees in these barrels, before six months in tank. The lees are never stirred, and the wines are bottled unfiltered.
Thierry Pillot’s red wines have really come of age in recent years, to the point where they now hold their own compared with the Domaine’s whites. Pillot’s friendship and gentle rivalry with brother-in-law Arnaud Mortet may have played a part in this improvement. The reds are fermented with between 20-60% whole bunches, and like the whites, very little (if any) new oak is used.
Domaine Paul Pillot is based in Chassagne-Montrachet with holdings in Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet and Meurasult in the Côte du Beaune, Burgundy, France.

“The 2023 Saint-Aubin La Charmois Premier Cru has a fresh nose of dewy meadow, grass clippings and light limestone scents. The palate is well balanced with green apple and freshly squeezed lime, linear yet persistent in the mouth. Top-notch Saint-Aubin ahoy!”
“The 2023 Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Charmois is similarly charming and demonstrative, bursting with aromas of pear and peach mingled with hints of nutmeg and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and sensual, it will offer a broad drinking window.”
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet, France
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