Size & Type
Other
$176
More immediate generosity from Porcaria, a sub-contrada of Feudo di Mezzo. A little savoury, with a full round aroma profile. Rich and round on the palate with excellent acid, zippy and on the borderline of sour, countered by ripe, spiced fruit. Time will undoubtedly see the acid resolve. Excellent red and darker fruit with baking spice and slatey grip of tannin. Herbal and fine. Very good.
NOTE: I tasted these 12 months after Eric Guido in June 2024.
A complex and dusty blend of dried cherries, cloves, cedar shavings and sage are lifted by a hint of menthol as the 2021 Contrada Porcaria (P) comes to life in the glass. This is deeply textural, with a wave of pure silk ushering in masses of mineral-tinged red fruits and spice as sour citrus adds a pinch of contrast toward the close. The 2021 finishes dramatically long and intense, leaving a saturation of primary concentration and edgy tannins, all neatly offset by a bump of residual acidity that maintains perfect harmony. This is a powerful vintage of Porcaria with the balance for a long and steady evolution. Bravo.”
Eric Guido, Vinous 94+ Points
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Contrada Porcaria (Contrada P) is a sub-plot of Feudo di Mezzo at 650 m (2,100 ft) a.s.l. and is considered Mount Etna’s famous and sought-after contrade because of the lush, robust wines it produces. The soil is made of a frail sheet of lava that splinters under one’s feet. We make wine from 1.5 hectares that we own within this cru.
Read all about our extensive tastings of Passopisciaro wines in our Wine Bites Mag article “Passopisciaro the Jurasic Park of Wine! Ancient Vines Revived to Create the Liquid Essence of Etna!”
The article includes a look at all the Contrade from both 2012 and 2013.
Explore Etna with our primer “Getting Your Head Around Sicily’s Mount Etna”
Passopisciaro is at once both a fossil and a piece of modern art! Vines aged from 70-120 years old grow on the slopes of a volcano at altitudes that make noses bleed. Less than 20 years ago these wines were unknown, the Grandfathers of today’s revolutionists made simple wine from overcropped vineyards.
Today the next generations are pushing the boundaries making wines from 100% Nerello Mascalese. Often referred to as a hybrid of the great Nebbiolo’s from Barolo and Pinot Noir’s from Burgundy, Nerello Mascalese is capable of making wines with real personality! They’ve taken something incredibly ancient, gone back to the DNA and started again. In under a decade the evolution of these wines have accelerated through a millennia.
Vines have been nurtured back to balance, tended by hand on terraced vineyards that one in every 3 years find themselves under ash clouds hurled into the sky from the very mountain they are planted on, a volcano, Mt Etna!
The selection of 2021s from Passopisciaro is atypical of the vintage in the best possible way. Winemaker Vincenzo Lo Mauro did a fantastic job of dealing with the arid warmth of the year and turning out a selection of well-balanced, fruit-centric yet structured wines. In 2021, Etna had to contend with four months of drought and hot temperatures. This resulted in an early harvest for Chardonnay around the last week of August. If anything, the whites suffered more than the reds, with a 40% loss in production. However, for the PassoRosso and Contrada wines, cool fall temperatures and a late harvest helped balance the fruit. The tannins, while more pronounced in the vintage, are beautifully integrated, and each of the Contrade does a fantastic job of communicating terroir. In some cases, I found the 2021s to outperform the 2020s at the same stage while giving the sense that they will evolve very positively. In the end, the 2021s are not to be missed, and the team of Passopisciaro is doing a superb job honoring Andrea Franchetti’s memory and style.
Eric Guido, Vinous
Passopisciaro is located in the village of Passopisciaro with the Cantina in Contrada Guardiola on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, Sicily, Italy.
A complex and dusty blend of dried cherries, cloves, cedar shavings and sage are lifted by a hint of menthol as the 2021 Contrada Porcaria (P) comes to life in the glass. This is deeply textural, with a wave of pure silk ushering in masses of mineral-tinged red fruits and spice as sour citrus adds a pinch of contrast toward the close. The 2021 finishes dramatically long and intense, leaving a saturation of primary concentration and edgy tannins, all neatly offset by a bump of residual acidity that maintains perfect harmony. This is a powerful vintage of Porcaria with the balance for a long and steady evolution. Bravo.”
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Passopisciaro Winery, Via Guardiola, Castiglione di Sicilia, Province of Catania, Italy
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