Oddero Barolo ‘Villero’ 2019

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Wine Decoded Meets Pietro Oddero! He Came, We Talked, We Drank … We Played with the Pooches!

Spending a couple of hours with Pietro exploring the history of the region, the winery and the people was a pleasure. The quality and personality-filled wines of Poderi Oddero make sense … you’ll see!

Pietro’s grandfather Giacomo, the 5th generation, played a major role in establishing the DOC for Barolo and a suite of agricultural produce, think hazelnuts and white truffles!

While the red tape of a DOC can feel restrictive, at the time the impetus was to collectivley set base level standards that would see the profile of the Langhe raised on a global stage.

Few would argue they haven’t achieved their goal!

Variety
100% Nebbiolo

Vineyard
Location: Castiglione Falletto, Plot 7, Sub-plot 132 Characteristics: 240 meters above sea level, southeastern exposure, 2.7 x 0.9 meters spacing, 4,300 vines/hectare density, Guyot upward-trained vertical-trellised training system.
Age: 53 years Hectares: 0.8 Yield: 60 quintals/hectarea

Harvesting period
First ten days of October

Production
3800-4000 bottles

Winemaking
Scrupulous vine growing. Careful manual selection of grapes, both in the vineyards and in the cellar by means of conveyor belt. Gentle de-stemming and pressing. Fermentation and maceration for approximately 25 days

Ageing
The wine is aged in 40hl oak barrels for 30 months. The wine is bottled at the end of summer and ages for another year in the bottle before being sold.

Tasting through the wines, they have a rustic nature to them, the tannins are mouth coating, often dusty and chalky. Yet, they’re balanced with a purity and brightness of fruit. There is a faint layer of oak in the Barbera from the new large Stockinger botti refreshing the old botti that have seen decades of use. It sits in balance. Isabella Oddero describes it as neutral and elegant.

The wines demand patience. Drink the DOCG Barolo and Cru’s over 2 or 3 days when young. I write this with a large glass of 2016 Barbaresco ‘Gallina’ in hand. It’s been open for 3 days now and is drinking the best it’s drunk. The tannins have softened a little, harmonising with the fruit. The wine has resolved to reveal a balance, beauty and perfume that sat shy on first opening.

These are superb wines of purity, character and energy. They represent an interpretation of Nebbiolo that requires patience and with it will reward you with bags of personality

– Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded

Readers who enjoy fine, classically built wines will want to check out Oddero. Bravo!
– Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Exploring Tannin Profiles

Texture is the missing link between good and great wines!

This is a great opportunity to explore tannin and mouthfeel.

1. Drink a Dolcetto, Barbera and Langhe Nebbiolo to dial into the differences between the varieties.
2. Drink a Langhe Nebbiolo, a Barbaresco Gallina and a Barolo next to each to see how the tannins step as you move from the Langhe to both the Barbaresco and Barolo and how they differ between the Barbaresco and Barolo.
3. Drink the Barolo next the Brunate, Villero & Vigna Rionda to see how the Crus layer up and have very different tannin profiles.

About Oddero

In Australia, we have wineries that have been around for 150 years. In Germany 4-500 years. Oddero sit in the middle with around a 300 year history.

If only those vines could talk. Now with 35 ha of vines across Barolo and the Gallina Cru in Barbaresco the estate continues to evolve with thoughtful intent.

Like many of the best estates in Piedmonte the attention to detail in the vineyard has lifted a notch or 3 and practices are now organic. I’d love to try their honey and hazelnuts. Italian honey is the bomb!

The film below is in Italian, seriously, just soak it up!

The podcast from Levi Dalton with Isabella Oddero from 2009 and one with Giacomo Oddero that just dropped is well worth a listen.

Since 2008 Luigi Oddero’s vineyards have been certified organic. Work has been underway to improve, soils, trellising and spend more time in the vineyard. Adding reduced yields the focus is clearly on lifting quality! I haven’t seen many older Oddero’s, today’s range have personality to burn.

In the Winery

The Langhe Neb sees a short ferment and maturation in Stainless steel.

The DOCG level Neb’s stay on skins for around 20-28 days in Tine (large vertical wooden barrels).

Stockinger Botti from Austria have been gradually introduced to replace the large old botti. Custom sizes have been bought, just 1 for each vineyard! Isabella describes the wood as being very neutral and austere.

I suspect the Barbera, that handle oak better than Neb, has been used for the first fill to ‘wash’ them of oak flavours and tannins before the Nebbiolo takes its turn. The quality and level of oak in the Barbera is nicely done.

Whatever the technique, the results in the glass are impressive!

Where in the World is Oddero?

Based in La Morra, Oddero’s 35ha are spread across Barolo, Barbaresco and Asti. Currently released Cru’s are Vigna Rionda (Serralunga), Rocche di Castiglione (Castiglione Falletto), Brunate (La Morra), Villero (Castiglione Falletto), Bussia Vigna Mondoca (Monforte) Bricco Fiasco – currently blended in into the Barolo Normale.

Barolo MGA 360º offers free access to the Villero Cru… Check it out!