Domaine Louis Boillot Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Les Evocelles’ 2022

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

As purity, expression and transparency increasingly dominate the discourse in Burgundy, the prices for wines from icons like Mugnier, Roumier and Rousseau have skyrocketed.
But for every Mugnier or Rousseau, there are a handful of domaines who make wines of profound expression, but whose prices remain attractive. At the top of our list of such producers is Louis Boillot.

Louis Boillot’s emerging position in the Burgundy firmament is not accidental. Despite having only launched his domaine in 2002, he came armed with some of the oldest and best situated vineyards in Burgundy—thanks to four generations of Boillots having acquired prime sites in Volnay and Gevrey Chambertin.

About Domaine Louis Boillot

Louis Boillot in concert with his wife Ghislaine Barthod and their son Clément Boillot-Barthod manages a fabulous array of old-vine vineyards and turn out some of the most beautiful red Burgundy along the Cote d’Or.

Louis Boillot recently acquired 4 hectares in Moulin-a-Vent; wines that are absolutely delicious and worth your consideration, they are very Burgundian Cru Beaujolais’.

Spit Bucket have mapped out the Boillot domains

In the Vineyard

In the years since his move to Chambolle, there has been a wildly impressive advance in the stature of Boillot’s wines. It has been a change marked not by flash or dazzle, but by an inexorable march towards increasingly refined and transparent wines.

Today, as in the past, at the heart of his style is a profound respect for the terroir of his old vines. In Gevrey-Chambertin for example, his villages vines average over 50 years old, as do the vines for his premier cru-quality Evocelles. His Champonnet proves this little-seen site ranks among Gevery’s best premier crus. And the Cherbaudes, from 90+ year old vines, is frequently of grand cru quality.

He makes a profound Nuit-St. Georges 1er cru Pruliers, also from 90+ year old vines. And, in Chambolle-Musigny, Louis and Ghislaine purchased and divided a significant part of Beaux Bruns.

Louis’ Côte de Beaune vineyards are equally imposing, with 55+ year old vines in the villages Volnay Grands Poisots. Also in Volnay, there are three premier crus: the supple Les Angles, the intense old-vine Brouillards and the esteemed Caillerets. Just down the road, there are two great Pommard premier crus: a robust Fremiers and monumental Croix Noires.

In fact, it’s hard to imagine the wines of so many great Burgundy terroirs slumbering in the same cellar. Between Louis and Ghislaine, there are 26 different cuvées, of which 17 are premier cru. Louis and Ghislaine’s son Clément stands to inherit both domaines one day, creating a single estate of dizzying stature.

The vineyard management has been combined, with Louis responsible for not only his own vines, but those of Ghislaine as well.

It’s no wonder Ghislaine lets Louis take care of her vines. He’s a master with more than 30 years of experience—employing the minimum of interventions, and meticulously pruning for balanced yields. His winemaking is equally timeless, featuring extended, gentle extractions and a limited use of new barrels.

In the Winery

Louis’ domaine has quietly become one of the most admired small estates in the Côte d’Or. The turning point came in the mid-2000s, when he and his partner—the supremely talented Ghislaine Barthod—built a cave together in Chambolle-Musigny.

This brought two of Burgundy’s most gifted winemakers together—working and tasting side by side—with the alchemy you’d expect.

The 2022 Vintage at Domain Louis Boillot

I again met with the young Clément Boillot, who is the son of Ghislaine Barthod and Louis Boillot. Clément is slowly taking over both domaines and while his parents remain very much involved, it’s clear he is the future. The younger Boillot, commenting for both domaines, noted that 2022 had a “much easier-to-manage growing season compared to 2021 though we did have some excitement in our Gevrey vines due to the massive end-of-June storm. We picked from the 27th of August to the 15th of September. Yields were good at around 45 hl/ha except in Gevrey where they were more in the 35 hl/ha range. Potential alcohols were perfectly good though not high at between 12 and 12.5% and we chaptalized about half a degree, which is to say from 12.5 to 13%. The Côte de Beaune fruit definitely came in riper than that from the Côte de Nuits though that didn’t necessarily translate into better wines in my view. We did a soft but relatively long cuvaison of around 4 weeks that had no problems properly finishing. As to the wines, I frankly expect them to be tannic, soft and lacking in energy yet they are the exactly opposite! Despite the fact that technically speaking, the acidities on the low side and the pHs are on the high side at between 3.6 and 3.8, they drink like they have bright acidities and much lower pHs.” As long-time readers know, the Barthod wines are almost always first-rate and the family has again produced superb examples in 2022.

Allen Meadows, Burghound

Where in the World is Domaine Louis Boillot?

Domaine Louis Boillot shares a winery in Chambolle-Musigny with his wife Ghislain Barthod. He has plantings through out Chambolle, Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Beaune, Volnay, and Pommard. Together with son Clément they acquired 4 Ha of Moulin-a-Vent in Beaujolais.

This wine is from Gevrey-Chambertin in the Côte-de-Nuits.

In this video we explore the villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny