Domaine des Croix Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Pertuisots’ 2022

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Pertuisots lies mid-slope on the Pommard side of the appellation. The domaine farms half a hectare of vines spread across two parcels: Petite Pertuisots, planted in 1971, and Grande Pertuisots, planted in 1987. Both lie on brown clay topsoils similar to Pommard over a bedrock of Jurassic limestone. For the Inside Burgundy enthusiasts, Jasper Morris MW holds a minority shareholding in the vineyard. Fermented with one-third bunches and raised with minimal new oak, the cooler and shallower Pertuisots terroir gives David Croix’s most mineral Beaune 1er Cru this year. This is so good: deep, aromatic and hedonistic. Already delicious, it will age magnificently (as this vineyard always does)

About Domaine des Croix

David Croix is hot property right now. For those just tuning in, the tiny seven-hectare Domaine des Croix is now one of Burgundy’s brightest stars. Not only does he excite us with the outstanding quality of his wines, but David Croix also reminds us just how great the wines of Beaune can be, and not before time. For aeons, the wines of Beaune have been wholly underappreciated in the world of Burgundy; thanks to the area being dominated by larger négociants and the Hospices de Beaune. Indeed, as Croix points out, although the appellation spans 44 Crus, you would be hard-pressed to find more than a handful of grower-producers bottling their own wine (and even then, a number of these are generic blends). David Croix has made it his mission to return Beaune to the glory that its best terroirs deserve.

“David Croix’s well-deserved reputation as one of the leading talents among his generation in the Côte de Beaune is founded on hard work in the vineyards, something I regularly witness in the Beaune premiers crus where I have the good fortune to have him as a neighbor…” 

William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Born and raised in Montlouis, Croix left the Loire Valley to study the Diplôme national d’oenologue in Burgundy. Completing the two-year course in half that time, he soon found himself under the tutelage of Benjamin Leroux at Pommard’s talent foundry, Comte Armand.  I’m guessing the young apprentice must have shown a great deal of promise, as within a few years Croix was approached by Becky Wasserman to head up the historic négociant Camille Giroud. By this point, Croix had reached the ripe old age of 24.

Wasserman noted that although young, Croix has long been considered un homme sérieux in the wine world, a conscientious and shrewd wine mind who is wise beyond his years. By 2004 he had joined a group of American investors to purchase the vineyards and winemaking apparatus of the underperforming Beaune estate, Domaine Duchet. With eight hectares spread across the vineyards of Beaune and a little Corton, the new entity was named Domaine des Croix, after the rising star who was to head it up. Croix continued his role at Giraud (a position he would leave in December 2016 after 15 years of service). Domaine des Croix released its first wines in 2005 and has now grown, each year releasing 14 wines including Beaune villages, six Beaune Premiers Crus and two Corton Grand Crus. The single white wine hails from two small parcels in En Charlemagne.

‘I think of wines being either quiet or noisy. David makes wines that are quiet, that is to say if you uncork one, you wait a minute or two, your pour a glass, and they begin to open up, you can sense that the winemaker has an extraordinary talent.’

Becky Wasserman, September 2016

Croix’s work in the vines is extremely precise: he coaxes out the kind of balance, fresh fruit and mineral crunch seldom encountered in other Beaune wines. His craft in the cellar also continues to evolve, eking out a level of purity and finesse that is often considered the exclusive birthright of Côte de Nuits growers. The vineyards, which have been managed organically since 2008, take up the lion’s share of Croix’s work at the Domaine. His vines are typically exceptionally low yielding, and in the cellar, his measured use of new oak and thoughtful use of whole bunches, minimal sulphur and comparatively long lees aging; mirrors the precise and softly-softly approach of his friend (and neighbour) Benjamin Leroux. The red wines are fermented with natural yeasts in wooden vats, before being separated into pressings and free-run juice wines. The wines are then aged in mostly neutral oak for between 12 and 15 months. After blending and resting in tank, the wines are bottled unfiltered. Croix’s wines are seductive and delicious, and yet, for all their approachability, they are also wines of serious depth, cascading textures and fine structure. Importantly, Croix’s wines speak loudly and proudly of the terroirs from which they come.

For a long time, the wines of Beaune have been underappreciated in the world of Burgundy. This is largely because the commune is dominated by the big négociants. It was precisely Beaune’s ‘modern-day underdog’ status that inspired Croix to get involved in this project.

Key Moments:

Viticulture 18.57

Extraction Regime 39:13

In the Vineyard

Beaune is the third largest appellation in the Côte d’Or (after Gevrey, and Meursault) and yet there are less then 10 vignerons in Beaune. No Grand Cru, 42 premier crus, and very tiny bits of village level vineyards.

There is great diversity here – elongated and flanked to three hill sides with profound influences of colluvial outcrops from three hills and alluvial downslope creeps, from both the Rhoin river and L’Avant Dheune one can divide the appellation into two: North and South.

Towards the North where the appellation borders Savigny-lès-Beaune, one experiences a plush side to the wines, more easy drinking thanks to this alluvial fan as the Rhoin river insinuates a natural border. For example, David’s “Les Cents Vignes, “where vines are almost 60 years old. This is one of the earliest picking sites.

In the Winery

There’s great comfort in hearing a winemaker not taking a dogmatic approach to making wine. Relying on a sense of touch only possible with intimate knowledge of your vineyards and the wisdom of dozens of vintages at hand a preferred modal over an unbending approach.

Agriculture is always in a state of flux, as is experience and preference. The best growers and makers must be agile.

David Croix’s wines show energy and freshness, wonderful expression, they are composed by a maestro with a true sense of harmony.

The 2022 Vintage at Domaine des Croix

In 2022, Croix picked a little later than many of his peers. He told us: “I’d rather accept a little of the reality of the vintage than pick too early.” It’s an interesting point for Australian producers to reflect on! Regardless, he wasn’t overly late, picking from 1^st to 6^th September, harvesting in the mornings to bring the fruit in cool. The wines showcase the depth and flesh of the sunny vintage but maintain the deliciousness and balance for which David’s wines are known. There’s an energy and precision to the fruit that points to 2017, allied with the density of 2020. The difference with the latter vintage is that Croix had less hydric stress in ’22; in fact, they had good rain in June when the vines needed it. The yields were higher than ‘20, too, slowing down ripening and enhancing the wine’s drinkability.

No sulphur was added during the aging, and plenty of ripe stems were used this year to build structure and freshness. David is no cheerleader of the current fashion (in some quarters) to under-extract and is happy to use punchdowns, working his cap three times a day. The final wines have serious power with succulence. They are fleshy, deep and delicious. And when you consider their prices in the context of modern Burgundy, they are serious outliers in terms of the value they offer!

Where in the World is Domaine des Croix?

Domaine des Croix is based in Beaune, Côte du Beaune, Burgundy, France with holdings in Aloxe-Corton, Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Beaune & Saint-Romain.