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Nebbiolo from Barolo, Italy
$166
This builds nicely in the glass, as a young wine, and has a presence and length about it. A full mid-palate carries through with excellent persistence. The energy of 2018 is present with fine acid and a complex set of intriguing flavours, a background resinous note over savoury, truffled fruit that has been beautifully developed draws you in. There’s some clever thinking in the making here.
In stock
Barale own around half of Castellero, enough to put aside some Barolo for Chinato, and enough to maintain that very nice patch of Barbera and even some Chardonnay for their smart bubbles. I rate Castellero very highly. It is admittedly a bit hard going early, often being closed and ungiving. It is however, essentially light on its feet, Burgundian in personality, even with some of earthy/root vegetable or tobacco notes of say Gevrey (or very nearby Castiglione?), to go with the expected dried rose and fruits of cranberry and cherry-skin. This vintage packs in a bit more by way of concentrated red plum, but it has finesse and a lot of swirling aromatics – once some age or a lot of air have been applied. The location of Castellero, being right where Barolo (its nominal comune) meets Monforte d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto. When tasted blind I’d forgive anyone (except myself!) who’d pick it as a Castiglione wine…with a touch of Monforte tannins. Fascinating wine.
On the edge of Barolo village, just a few metres down and across the cobblestones of the via Roma from Cantina Bartolo Mascarello, is the unprepossessing cantina frontage to one of the most exciting discoveries in my many years of going to the Langhe. It’s not as though Barale just emerged, but these firmly traditional wines are now being made to the full potential of the family’s remarkable vineyards and this unforced, traditional style is now being fully appreciated.
Barale present a catalogue of superb, authentic Barolo and a cru Barbaresco, bell-clear Piemontese varietals, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto, along with a slight twist in the form of a wonderful metodo classico – as good a sparkler as I’ve ever had in Italy. Another great asset is a wonderful, typically far-sighted museum collection, an archive the last 2 decades of Barale winemaking. Oh, and that Chinato, all elegant, fragrant and addictive.
The Barale family have in fact been at it for centuries and while they are amongst the first recorded producers of Barolo wine, from 1870, they appear in the village register of the early 1600s as owners of parts of some pretty familiar vineyard names; Coste di Rose, Cannubi, Castellero and Preda. The current custodians, Sergio Barale and his daughters Eleonora and Gloria owe their heritage to the acquisition, over generations, of vineyards in not only Barolo comune, but also in Monforte d’Alba and Barbaresco. By the 1970’s the family had brought more Cannubi and added Monrobiolo (in Barolo) and some Bussia (in Monforte) and into the 90’s had virtually swapped their long-held Rabaja vineyard in Barbaresco for some Serraboella in Neive planted in 1969. All this covers only 20 ha, with Sergio tailoring his plantings almost precisely only to the best soil and aspect combinations. Virtually the whole of Cannubi was replanted at the end of the 2007 vintage, and although just back in production, it’s with startling results. Vineyards are everything to Barale.
The initial approach is the same for all the reds; delicate crushing in order to keep skins intact, fermentation with indigenous yeasts, controlled temperature and maceration with frequent basting of the skins. The fermentation vessel, temperatures and macerations change according to the grape.
While based in Barolo, Barale makes this beautiful wine from the Serraboella vineyard in Nieve, Barbaresco. This wine comes from San Giovanni on the Bricco immediately outside the village – therefore strictly speaking Barolo commune but effectively it’s just as much Bussia. On calcareous sand facing south-east.
I am very taken with this new release from Barale Fratelli. The certified organic 2018 Barolo Castellero shows a hint of bright cherry that pops up from a classic or traditional bouquet with austere background notes of crushed flower, orange peel and rusty nail. I like that the wine pulls in multiple directions aromatically. This makes for a lot of movement and fluidity in terms of bouquet. This is a nicely etched and well-crafted Barolo that offers its fair share of contrasts and unexpected surprises, including an outright salty finish. Only 3,773 bottles were made, and I recommend you find one for your cellar collection.
Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with earthy whiffs of new leather, rose, underbrush and wild berry. Made with organically farmed grapes, the delicious, linear palate features red cherry, spiced cranberry, ground clove and star anise framed in fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2024–2030.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Barale Fratelli, Via Roma, Barolo, Piedmont, Province of Cuneo, Italy
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