Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Margherita Otto ‘M8’ Barolo 2020

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello! I've now had a chance to taste through a good wedge of 2020 Barolos. It reads as an interesting vintage. There are many tightly coiled wines at this point that will need time to build generosity. Manley's M8 is one of the highlights of my tasting thus far. It's a complete wine with a caressing shape and flow of fruit underpinned by long, even, layered, serious tannins. Complex with immediate generosity,
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San Giusto a Rentennano Fuori Misura Rosato Toscano 2024

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Delicious. It takes some mad skills to pull off a wine like this. The balance point between rosé & light red, the crunch with real flavour, the texture. Sure winemaking smarts are key, it's that innate sense of touch that allows a cluey vigneron to layer in the kind of character this has that makes the real difference.Cherries & rhubarb, orange, a pinch of baking spice, plenty of zip, little lick of anise. Phenolic grip playing at just the right level. Perfectly weighted, is it a Li
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Pieropan Soave Classico 2024

White Blend | Veneto, Italy

In a screw-cap bottle, the organic Pieropan 2024 Soave Classico is a favorite bottle from Northern Italy for very good reason. This simple expression of Garganega (blended with 15% Trebbiano di Soave for extra richness) offers nice freshness, mineral tones and sweet primary fruit that recalls freshly cut apple and white peach. This was not an easy vintage by any stretch, but this white wine comes out fighting. The Pieropan family does a terrific job with this entry-level release of 560,000 bottl
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Benevelli Piero Langhe Nebbiolo 2023

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The Perfect intro to Nebbiolo from Italy! It's got all the complexity & style of good Neb. The Neb-Heads GO MENTAL! Varieties like Nebbiolo and Pinot can take a bit to get your head around. Sometimes you just need the right wine to kick you off. This does the job nicely. From one of the greatest Nebbiolo growing regions in the world Monforte!Year in year out this is has been the best value Neb in our portfolio. Always a great perfume a little spice, a wicked core cherry of fruit. Depth and l
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Domenico Clerico Dolcetto ‘Visadi’ 2023

Dolcetto | Piedmont, Monforte d'Alba

A ripping juicy, beautifully developed Dolcetto with fine acid. Playful with slatey mid-palate grip. Grape spice, red to blue fruit. Solid depth and length. Effortless and thirst quenching. Beautifully weighted. Excellent transparency. Lovely perfume.The careless approach many makers take to Dolcetto is a real bugbear of mine. It has been said by more than one great maker that you should taste Dolcetto to rate the standing of a producer. The worst offenders are too ripe, over-extracted,
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San Giusto a Rentennano Fuori Misura Rosato Toscano 2022

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Dang! This is foine woine! Personality+++ This ain't no blinkity blink pink link! It's got the full sink! Delicious. It takes some mad skills to pull off a wine like this. The balance point between rosé & light red, the crunch with real flavour, the texture. Sure winemaking smarts are key, it's that innate sense of touch that allows a cluey vigneron to layer in the kind of character this has that makes the real difference. Is it a Light Red or a Rosé? Who cares, it just an ace wine.
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Gini Soave Classico 2022

Garganega | Veneto, Italy

Fresh crisp, lovely core of fruit. Line of acid with strong textural intrigue. Very fine line of silvery bitterness, excellent development in the context of the style. Spice baking at play with good drive to finish. Fun wine. Great expression. A Soave of importance at this level."The 2021 Soave Classico is remarkably pretty with yellow flowers, wet stone and freshly sliced pear. This is mineral and focused upon entry, with perfume orchard fruits and a saly flourish that returns toward th
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Oddero Dolcetto d’Alba 2022

Dolcetto | Piedmont, Barolo

Oddero have balanced the development of their Dolcetto beautifully. An excellent rendition of Dolcetto - complex with crunch and refined tannins. A little darkness, perfume spice and beyond. The texture and work to get through this through puberty is clear. Complete and delicious.I explored the reductive and raw nature of lesser Dolcetto wines with Pietro in our discussion below.
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Corzano e Paterno Chianti 'Terre di Corzano' 2021
Brings Back Memories!

Corzano e Paterno Chianti ‘Terre di Corzano’ 2021

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

This wine, along with Corzano e Paterno’s top of the line 100% Sangiovese ‘I Tre Borri’ were two of the first Chianti’s that that piqued my interest and demonstrated the potential of this beautiful variety.Fresh zippy acid, red cherry, excellent tannins with a little playful grip and spice. Delicious.  Grape first. Earthy profile with dark fruit of energy and vibrancy a little perfume floats over the top ~ violets me thinks. Layered delicious and vibrant an excellent comparison to
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Buscemi 'Il Rosso' 2018
Lava Juice!

Buscemi ‘Il Rosso’ 2018

Red Blend | Etna, Italy

Buscemi's 'Il Rossoi' is much more than just the perfect light to medium bodied summer red! What a delight! As expected from a vineyard at 980m above see level this looks very much like a cool climate rendition of Grenache. The Nerellos adding to the texture and complexity. Fine boned with a line of dusty tannins, the crunchy cherry bomb fruit balances juicy acid nicely. Full of energy & freshness, a superb light to medium bodied summer red.Mirella conducts the hand harvest in late Octob
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Gioso Langhe Nebbiolo 2021

Nebbiolo | Roero, Italy

A Baby Neb from the Family that Brought us the 8 Cru's, Sordo! This is your New House Neb! Along with Benevelli’s & Boasso Langhe Neb the GIOSO Nebbiolo d'Alba is Australia’s new house Neb!Grown on the sunny, steep, sandy vineyards of the Roero region in between the left bank of the Tanaro river and the nearby Langhe region. It sees 9 months in large old oak before a short spell in tank and some bottle time.The Roero is making excellent Nebbiolo. Many of you will know Sandro
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Claudio Mariotto ‘Braghé’ Freisa 2021

Freisa | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Mariotto's description of this wine 'Fresh and bringer of frestive cheer' is apt! A light, dry red that can be served just slightly chilled it makes for great summer drinking. The work done to offer us a fine dusting of long even tannins balanced to the fruit weight shows great touch. The fruit development along with the varietal characteristics yielding savoury, earthy notes with the little bit of rose and musk from Mariotto's tasting notes. A refreshing playful drink with plenty of intrigue.
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