Rancio


A tasting term used for a distinctive style of wine, often fortified or vin doux naturel, achieved by deliberately exposing it to oxygen and/or heat. Such wines are typicially characterised by an additional and powerful smell reminiscent of overripe fruit, nuts, and melted or even rancid butter.

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A tasting term used for a distinctive style of wine, often fortified or vin doux naturel, achieved by deliberately maderizing the wine by exposing it to oxygen and/or heat. It is not a negative trait, but characteristic of these wine styles.

The word rancio has the same root as ‘rancid’ and the wines that result have an additional and powerful smell reminiscent of overripe fruit, nuts, and melted or even rancid butter.

Wines that commonly displays rancio character can include: wines traditionally stored in barrels in hot store houses (Australian Topaque and Muscat), or under the rafters in a hot climate (Madeira or Rousillon’s vin doux naturels), or in glass demijohns left out of doors and subjected ot the changing temperatures of night and day, as in some parts of Spain.

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Fèlsina Chianti Classio Riserva DOCG ‘Rancia’ 2017

Sangiovese | Castelnuovo Berardenga, Italy

The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is incredibly polished and sophisticated. Silky tannins give the 2017 its racy, sleek personality. Over the last year, the 2017 has really settled into a gorgeous place. There is plenty of vintage 2017 intensity, but Rancia is distinctly medium in body and restrained. The wilder side of Sangiovese, one of the signatures of Rancia and Fèlsina more broadly, tastes a bit baked out. I can't wait to see how the 2017 develops over the coming years and decades.
$140
$135ea in any 3+
$130ea in any 6+

L’Erta di Radda Chianti Classico Riserva 2021

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Grape first. A build in richness and intensity here over the Chianti Classico. Just 1ha vineyard of high elevation north facing. Serious dark and brooding in need of more time to reveal it’s full potential the depth and length here is impressive. The oak tannin just layers in seamlessly playing a supporting role. Elegant with incredible length. Very good and will deliver much more with time. This gives many a Brunello a kick in the ass! Chocolatey, yes, rich, yes, nothing like those boring oxi
$117
$112ea in any 3+
$107ea in any 6+

Benjamin Leroux Nuits Saint Georges 2022

Pinot Noir | Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits

This blend of Nuits-Saint-Georges climats includes the village lieu-dit Les Allots and three Premiers Crus: Les Cailles, Aux Thorey and Les Boudots. The lion’s share, however, is drawn from Aux Herbues on the Vosne border and a parcel in the northern part of Fleurières, just south of the town. This year, Les Tuyaux, a stony terroir at the very northern end of the appellation, has joined the party. The 2022 was entirely destemmed. My notes read “Very Ben Leroux” in that it’s a
$254
$244ea in any 3+
$234ea in any 6+

Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Cerretta’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Cerretta = Enough Said! Starting off a bit slower than the other wines in this flight, the Luigi Baudana 2021 Barolo Cerretta is quite nervous and tightly wound at this point. Cerretta in Serralunga d’Alba is known for its powerful, age-worthy wines. Despite that initial shyness, this bottle does reveal layers of sweet fruit, grenadine and tart cherry. The wine is nicely balanced with chalky, elegant tannins. Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 95+ Points AG 95
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+