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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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I've been watching Kientzler over the last decade now and have seen them consistently produce excellent wines from the Lieu Dit Muhlforst and the Grand Cru vineyards of Osterberg, Geisberg and Schoenenbourg.The 2021 Osterberg is beautiful, refined, long, layered & complex with exceptional acid and that Kientzler house funk. A long. linear line of super fine matches, citrus, musk, jasmine & spice. This is very very good. Exceptional development looks like oak élévage, yet it is rais
$104
$99ea in any 3+
$94ea in any 6+

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ JEROBOAM 3L 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

A wonderful expression of Serralunga, all of the tea, slate, graphite, exceptional quality tannins, with a presence and sophistication. The firm mouthfeel of seriously good Serralunga tannins. Again such a complete wine. The nose draws you in. Begging you to drink. A darkness and energy that is palpable.Impressive gear. Precise, and pure, wearing the vineyard and commune on its sleeve. Superb fruit of depth and length. Great drinking here with much much more to come.
$720
$700ea in any 3+
$680ea in any 6+

Zárate Albariño 2022

Albariño | Val do Salnés, Galicia

Initially restrained on the nose it slowly builds through complexing earthiness & the fruit shines, with subtle generosity layered in from time on fine lees.Fresh, electric energy with the flavour to back it! Sherbety saline acid, super ripe lemon, super zippy, crunchy & juicy, with a phenolic crunch and play. Incredible transparency and delicacy.It carries a wee bit of spritz that adds to the already refreshing nature of this delicious beverage and will ensure it's longevity.
$68
$65ea in any 3+
$62ea in any 6+

Fèlsina Chianti Classio Riserva DOCG ‘Rancia’ 2017

Sangiovese | Castelnuovo Berardenga, Italy

The 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is incredibly polished and sophisticated. Silky tannins give the 2017 its racy, sleek personality. Over the last year, the 2017 has really settled into a gorgeous place. There is plenty of vintage 2017 intensity, but Rancia is distinctly medium in body and restrained. The wilder side of Sangiovese, one of the signatures of Rancia and Fèlsina more broadly, tastes a bit baked out. I can't wait to see how the 2017 develops over the coming years and decades.
$140
$135ea in any 3+
$130ea in any 6+