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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]

In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Domaine Joannes Violot-Guillemard Pommard 1er 'La Platière' 2019
Deep and concentrated, the 2019 Pommard 1er Cru La Platière evokes aromas of rose petals, red berries, Indian spices, raw cocoa and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, layered and vibrant, with powdery tannins and lively acids, it's the most elegant young Platière that I've tasted from the domaine.William Kelley, 91-93 Points
$249
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$229ea in any 6+
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Stéphane Magnien Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru ‘Aux Petites Noix’ 2022
There's a great purity & vibrancy to Magnien's wines. His Faconnières is superb! Once again there is a plethora of floral elements present on the elegant nose of red currant, cherry and pretty spice wisps. The succulent, fleshy and punchy middleweight flavors a really lovely texture that carries over to the youthfully austere and delicately balanced finale. Excellent. Drink: 2032+Allen Meadows, Burghound 91-93 Points
$336
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$306ea in any 6+
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Domaine Jean Marc & Hugues Pavelot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru 'Aux Guettes' 2019
Here too there is a mentholated top note present on the more sauvage and forest floor nuanced aromas of red and dark currant. I very much like the sense of underlying tension suffusing the even more mineral-driven middle weight flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that buffers the very firm tannic spine shaping the beautifully long finale. This serious, austere and compact effort is quite tightly wound and a wine that is unlikely to make for especially interesting drinking young; then a
$127
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$117ea in any 6+
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Domaine Thierry Laffay Chablis Vielles Vignes 2019
Showing exactly how important vine age is! A step up, an extra zip of salty acid and that mid palate weight with excellent length. Florals, white stone fruit a little citrus pith and plenty of fun. That slight primary edge that disappeared as it opened revealing excellent depth and length with restraint. A little more complexity. Mid palate texture is excellent. Hazelnuts and an extra layer of pleasure here. Excellent.
$67
$64ea in any 3+
$61ea in any 6+
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