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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Feeling Thirsty?

Vietti Barolo 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Show the class of the vineyards and the winemakers! Excellent Barolo. The delicacy and restraint here is exceptional. The core of transparent fruit is insane. Depth, purity and such incredible clarity. A soft hand yields incredibly fine, long, even nutty tannin. Showing wonderful expression and generosity in its youth. Plenty more to come with time in bottle. Flowers, blood orange, rhubarb, red fruits. Mid-palate tannin of exceptional quality. A dark broody layer folded in. Impeccable blending.
$159
$154ea in any 3+
$149ea in any 6+

Rafael Palacios ‘As Sortes’ Godello 2022

White Wine | Valdeorras, Galicia

Huge jump in depth and length over the 'Loura'. A layer of oxidative development adding complexity to the fruit weight. A more refreshing mouthfeel along combines with a step up in salinity. The nutty, lees complex a faintly toasty line. The core of citrus rind / oil fruit easily holding its own. Excellent balance and expression. A complete harmonious wine without artefact. Drinks beautifully with a day open. A little baking spice. Loads of nuance. Seriously sharp wine.The 2022 As Sortes
$160
$153ea in any 3+
$146ea in any 6+

François Villard Saint-Joseph ‘Mairlant’ 2022

Shiraz/Syrah | Saint-Joseph, France

This is very good. Fruit development is excellent. Savoury, umami, red fruited with a lick of spice, the stalk tannin is of quality with a playful grip. Love to have this 5-7 years. Great drinking out of the gate. Tannins would love a little food. Long pure finish. Great shape and flow. Not at all heavy, elegant.Excellent comparision with Hauts Châssis’ Saint-Joseph made with no whole bunches.Saturated violet color. Vibrant, spice-tinged dark berry, cherry, potpourri and licori
$109
$104ea in any 3+
$99ea in any 6+
Here too there is just enough wood to merit mentioning as well as a hint of the exotic to be found on the aromas of pear confit, jasmine tea, orange peel and peach. There is superb density to the highly seductive, even plush, larger-bodied flavors that possess a suave mouthfeel while displaying stunningly good length on the powerful, firm and built-to-age finale. This is a strikingly good Criots that could be approached after only 5 to 7 years yet should repay up to 15 years of keeping. Don't M
$950
$930ea in any 3+
$910ea in any 6+