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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Feeling Thirsty?

The 2021 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is a real success, soaring from the glass with aromas of raspberries, peonies, exotic spices, loamy soil, orange zest and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a satiny attack and a seamless, sensual mid-palate, it concludes with a long, perfumed finish.William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 94-95 Points BH 94
$2,485
$2465ea in any 3+
$2445ea in any 6+
Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur 'Clos Romans' 2018
Bone Dry!
Chenin. Take the syrup from poached quince and mix it with Créme pâtissière. Entrancing. Lovely, feel like I’m cooking quince. Long fine, excellent acid, draws you in, alive with personality. Bone dry! Phenolics here are interesting, dusty rather than oily. They have a wonderful cleansing feel. Savory with a little oxidative character just enough to add intrigue. Fun. Very good.
$199
$192ea in any 3+
$185ea in any 6+
The latest Contrada from Terre Nere! Complex aromas of ripe berries with toffee, cedar and some floral undertones. Hot ash as well. The palate is full-bodied, but tight and linear with a chewy palate and lots of dried-peach and orange-peel undertones to the ripe fruit, but always linear and focused. Try after 2022.Suckling
$125
$120ea in any 3+
$115ea in any 6+
Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Montestefano' MAGNUM 2019
KO 99 AG 95
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 Points KO 99*NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they will resolve and shift up. KO tasted in Jan
$426
$411ea in any 3+
$396ea in any 6+