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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Les Champonnets, situated on the same line as the Grands Crus and very near to Ruchottes-Chambertin, is tucked up high near the entrance of the Lavaux combe (or valley). Mortet's parcel here used to make up almost half of his 1er Cru bottling above, and 2014 was the first year this parcel was vinified and bottled separately. It comes from a combination of very old vines (60-70 years old) and some younger, at around 30 years old. The soil is deep, yet with a strong limestone component that shows
$548
$528ea in any 3+
$508ea in any 6+

Domaine Louis Boillot Gevrey-Chambertin 2017

Pinot Noir | Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy

Cracking example of Gevrey-Chambertin. There’s a theme through Louis Boillot’s wines of harmony, and, delicacy with intensity. Cracking example of Gevrey-Chambertin. There's a theme through Louis Boillot's wines of harmony, and, delicacy with intensity. The old iron fist in the velvet glove. The reduction Meadows noted is all but gone now and the fruit is showing fine form. A lovely shape to the palate with that true to domain plush, supple tannin. A wine of great precision and expression.
$139
$134ea in any 3+
$129ea in any 6+
“The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Pertuisots is performing especially well this year, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, wild berries and plums mingled with rose petals, sweet spices and burning embers. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, it's layered and complete, with a lively core of fruit and beautifully refined, powdery tannins.”William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 92-94 Points“The 2022 Beaune Pertuisots 1er Cru, which contains 27% whole bunches, has such a pretty n
$275
$265ea in any 3+
$255ea in any 6+
Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Montestefano' 2020
AG 97 ML 93 KO 97
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the most elegant, polished wines in this range. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mint and cedar are beautifully lifted. The tannins are remarkably polished for a young, recently bottled Riserva. I admire its poise and elegance. This is an especially refined edition of the Montestefano. In 2020, the mix of vineyards is a bit younger than in the past, as one of the blocks of older vineyards was replanted and not used. If I could have o
$215
$205ea in any 3+
$195ea in any 6+