2023 Domaine Faiveley Offer
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Based in Nuits-St-Georges, the famous Domaine Faiveley was founded in 1825 and in more recent times, the domaine has greatly expanded its vineyards across the entire Côte d’Or. The grapes are entirely destemmed and fermented in a mix of new wooden vats for the top end wines and stainless steel for the lesser cuvées. Once notorious for being fairly austere, there has been less emphasis on extraction over the last ten years and the wines show increased freshness, purity of fruit and more judicious use of oak.
A contender for one of the most improved domaines in Burgundy over the last decade.
The Evolution of Faiveley
Erwan Faiveley made two important announcements a few years ago.
The first was that a new state-of-the-art cuverie was operational. It is elegant, spacious and efficient and will offer the inestimable advantages of room to work, which is rarely the case in Burgundy’s often cramped wineries.
The second was arguably more important in that it heralds a change in style. Long-time readers may remember that in 2007 the Domaine made the dramatic decision to change the style of its reds, which up to that point could be fairly described as unapologetically old school. In other words, reds that were firmly structured, sturdy and built-to-age for the long-term. In 2007 this at times rustic style was discarded in favour of wines that possessed more elegance and finesse in the hopes of creating more supple burgundies that required less long-term cellaring.
“While we like the current style and what it offers, for several years we were feeling that perhaps we had strayed too far from our roots. To this end, we finally asked if there might not be a way to combine the two in a way that remained true to our history but didn’t require 20 years before the wines were completely ready to drink. So now we’re looking for more density and riper tannins while doing our best to retain a more refined mouthfeel. To achieve this we’re harvesting a few days later in the search for a higher level of phenolic maturity and then vinifying the fruit in a fashion that reduces forced extraction and emphasizes natural extraction. In other words, we will take what the fruit has to give in any given vintage without forcing more out of it that often results in overtly extracted wines.” Faiveley
Erwan Faiveley, the seventh generation owner of one of Burgundy’s largest grand cru site holders, Domaine Faiveley, is making a sharp turn away from his father’s big and tannic winemaking style. After 13 years at the helm of the family estate, the dynamic Burgundy scion confessed that it was only in 2012 that he began to achieve exactly what he wanted in terms of style and concentration.
The video bellow is matched by three others (at the end of the offer) exploring each of the seasons following the full cycle of the vine and wine at Domaine Faiveley.
The 2023 Vintage by Faiveley
I met with technical director Jérôme Flous, who commented that 2023 “was a vintage of incredible abundance. For example, we dropped as much as 50% of the crop in Corton and almost as much elsewhere! Stated differently, we dropped more fruit in 2023 than we harvested in 2024, which if you stop to think about it is insane! Even with all of that work in the interest of controlling yields, I’m not sure that ripeness levels would have been sufficient if we hadn’t had a serious heat wave in the second half of August. Sugar accumulation had to that point been increasing only very slowly if at all, but once the heat kicked in, the maturities spiked.
We picked from the 8th to the 20th of September and there wasn’t really much sorting required, which is to say that we threw out on the order of only 3%, which was mostly due to underripe bunches. All in all, 3% isn’t much given the volumes. Yields were somewhat varied as they ranged from 45 to 50 hl/ha in pinot and 50 to 55 hl/ha in chardonnay. The bunches were huge with bunch weights that were definitely higher than usual as there was a lot of juice in the berries. Potential alcohols were quite good as they averaged between 13 to 13.5% in both colors.
For the reds, we employed a moderate extraction regime and used no whole clusters except for the Musigny. This was primarily because the pHs were already around 3.6 and we absolutely didn’t want them to rise to around 3.8 due to the potassium reserve in the stems. As to the reds, they are perfumed, charming and tender. Stylistically, they are perhaps like say a riper version of 2017 or a more qualitative version of 2007 or 2011.” The majority of the lower-level wines were not presented as was the case with the Clos de Bèze Cuvée Les Ouvrées Rodin and the Chambolle 1ers of Les Fuées and Les Amoureuses.
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
Jérôme Flous and his team can’t seem to put a foot wrong at Faiveley; and given the high level of vineyard management and skill and precision brought to bear in the winery and the cellar, I think it’s fair to say this is one of the finest larger domaine and négociant operations in Burgundy in terms of both quality and consistency. The 2023 vintage has delivered a crop of supple, sensual reds and fleshy but precise whites that will offer broad drinking windows.William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
It was a pleasure to taste with head winemaker Jerome Floos, overseeing his 17th vintage chez Faiveley.
“It was a rollercoaster growing season, sometimes cold and other times warm and dry. In July, it could be like winter, and then in August there was a heatwave before and during the harvest. In Côte Chalonnaise, we gained three degrees of potential alcohol in four days for the whites. Two weeks before the harvest, we were thinking we would have to chaptalize. I ordered 10 tons of sugar for Faiveley 15 days before the harvest, but I only used one-third. In the end, we only had to chaptalize a small amount.”
Floss went on, “The harvest started in Mercurey on September 7 and finished in Marsannay on September 21. During the day, it was over 30°C and we could not pick in the afternoon, so it was difficult for the pickers. Fortunately, we have a large cooling room that was very important. Plus, we had a large team of pickers, around 240 for the Côte Chalonnaise and the Côte d’Or. The alcohol is 13.5% on average for the reds, 13.2% for the whites. The Premier Crus are raised in 50% new barrel and 50% two-year-old, and Grand Crus are done in 50% new barrel and 50% one-year-old. The volumes are very good: around 45 hl/ha to 50 hl/ha for the reds and between 50 hl/ha and 60 hl/ha for the whites, which can be compared to 2009 or 2018.”
Neal Martin, Vinous
The Wines
Faively’s vast holdings stretch from the very top of the Côte d’Or through the Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and into the top of the Côte Chalonaise with Pinot holdings in Mercurey. Below are maps of their terroirs. You can enlarge them and explore the regions and vineyards. We’re writing a series of primers on each of the main villages in Burgundy and on Burgundy in general you can check out where we’re up to in the Wine Bites Mag.
Check out all the Article on Burgundy!
Faiveley Grand & 1er Crus de la Côte de Beaune
Detailed Map of Faiveley’s Côte de Beaune Holdings
Faiveley Grand & 1er Crus de la Côte de Nuits
Detailed Map of Faiveley’s Côte de Nuits Holdings
About the Wines
Faiveley Grand & 1er Crus de la Côte de Beaune
Whites
Corton Charlemange Grand Cru
A broad-ranging nose reluctantly offers up its aromas of spice, mineral reduction, green apple and citrus rind along with subtle wood influence. There is both excellent volume and punch to the succulent yet powerful flavors that flash plenty of stoniness on the moderately austere and lingering finish that is borderline tannic. At least some patience strongly advised.
92-94 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2031+
The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is structured very differently from the domaine’s grands crus from Puligny. Offering up aromas of orange zest, pear, apricot, white flowers, wet stones and hazelnuts, it’s full-bodied, satiny and textural, with a beautifully mordant, chalky finish.
94-96 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a leesy nose, a touch of lime and lemon thyme and is well defined if requiring more intensity (like the Bâtard-Montrachet). The palate is balanced with a fresh orange sorbet and lime entry. It is cohesive with fine acidity, though it needs a little more Corton-Charlemagne typicity – especially in texture – on the finish.
91-93 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2027-2047
Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru
More subtle though still easily perceptible oak can be found on the cooler nose of Granny Smith apple, petrol, acacia blossom and citrus confit. The medium-bodied flavors aren’t quite as concentrated as those of the Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet but do possess slightly more complexity on the powerful, focused and youthfully austere finale. Lovely and very promising.
91-94 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2030+
The soils here are stonier and faster draining, and the 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is denser and more unctuous than the Bienvenues. Exhibiting notes of pear, lime zest, toasted bread, white flowers and hazelnuts, it’s full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with broad shoulders and plenty of structuring extract.
94-96 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is frankly in a different league to the Bienvenue this year. It’s far richer and more complex with greater mineralité. The palate is well balanced with a smooth entry and quite creamy in style but with ample depth. Quite harmonious with hints of peach skin toward the finish, this is going to be seductive Bâtard-Montrachet. This is excellent.
93-95 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2028-2048
Faiveley owns a third of a hectare on the Puligny side of Bâtard, directly up-slope from their vines in Bienvenues. The wine is a classic of the appellation, with ripe apple and quince aromas, hints of acacia flower, hazelnut, and spice. The texture is powerful and richer than the Bienvenues; it also has more structure and potential for ageing. The overall impression is one of density without heaviness – marvellous. This wine should open with three to five years in the bottle and drink for a further 20.
95 Points, Charles Curtis MW – Decanter Drink: 2030-2060
Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru
Moderate wood frames ripe aromas of honeysuckle, lemon zest and pretty spice nuances along with a similar floral top note. There is again good volume and energy to the caressing medium weight flavors that also conclude in a bitter citrus-inflected finish that is slightly more structured. This well-made effort should age well too.
91-93 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2029+
The 2023 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is lovely, offering up aromas of pear, orange zest and freshly baked bread, framed by a deft touch of reduction. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it’s dense and seamless, with a sweet core of fruit and a creamy, textural profile.
94-96 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a light bouquet featuring chalk dust and Granny Smith apples. This needs a little more mineralité and intensity. The palate is well balanced with fine matière. It’s brisk with a citric finish that needs more sustain in the mouth.
90-92 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2025-2040
A wine of great finesse and richness, boasting delicate aromas of ripe pear and hazelnut with a firm mineral underpinning. The texture is creamy, silky and subtle but not at all heavy. The restraint and elegance are remarkable, and the sometimes over-the-top richness of Bâtard is absent. The grapes are from the half-hectare acquired from Domaine Monnot in 2008. They were gently pressed as whole clusters and are ageing at present in cask, 50%–60% new.
95 Points, Charles Curtis MW – Decanter Drink: 2030-2050
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gains
A discreet application of wood is present on the ripe aromas of apple compote, petrol and citrus confit along with a floral top note. The racy, delicious and nicely detailed middle weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the bitter lemon-inflected finale. This could use better depth but I like the balance so it should age well over the medium-term.
90-92 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2028+
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain has turned out nicely, offering up aromas of pear, freshly baked bread and toasted nuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural palate, concluding with a long, saline finish.
91-93 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Gain ler Cru has a pretty bouquet with yellow plum and light chamomile scents. I’m just seeking more mineralité and terroir expression here. The palate is well balanced with modest depth and fine acidity, although, again, I feel the season just denuded a little tension and terroir on the finish.
87-89 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2025-2032
Faiveley Grand & 1er Crus de la Côte de Nuits
Detailed Map of Faiveley’s Côte de Nuits Holdings
Chambertin ‘Clos de Bèze’ Grand Cru
This is also firmly reduced and revealing nothing but a tinge of spiciness. Once again the caressing and seductive mouthfeel of the medium weight flavors is striking thanks to the fine-grained tannins that shape the wonderfully complex and impeccably well-balanced finale. I particularly like the inner mouth perfume that only adds to the appeal of this very classy effort.
92-95 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2035+
Aromas of sweet cherries and blackberries mingled with notions of clove, incense, rose petals and blood orange in an incipiently complex bouquet introduce the 2023 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and perfumed wine that’s pure, rich and sensual, concluding with an expansive finish.
94-96 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
Aromas of sweet cherries and blackberries mingled with notions of clove, incense, rose petals and blood orange in an incipiently complex bouquet introduce the 2023 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and perfumed wine that’s pure, rich and sensual, concluding with an expansive finish.
92-94 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2028-2048
Cortons ‘Clos des Cortons’ Grand Cru (Monopole)
Enough wood to merit mentioning is present on the nose of spicy and ripe red and dark currant along with suggestions of earth and the sauvage. I very much like the mouthfeel of the solidly voluminous flavors that also exude a borderline palpable minerality on the compact, backward and built-to-age finale. This will need to add depth with time in bottle so at least some keeping is advised.
91-93 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2035+
The 2023 Corton Grand Cru Clos des Cortons Faiveley is excellent, offering up aromas of dark berries, orange zest, spices and petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, tautly fleshy palate that’s lively and mineral, with refined structuring tannins and a long, penetrating finish.
93-95 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has quite a floral bouquet mainly featuring red fruit, cranberry and redcurrant notes. It’s not as concentrated as the previous vintage yet it’s well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a hint of crunchy red fruit, a twist of sour lemon and plenty of energy, with an impressive, mineral-driven finish. This endears itself on acquaintance and it should age well in bottle.
93-95 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2028-2055
Latricières-Chambertin
Moderate wood influence suffuses the cool, airy and pretty peppery and spicy aromas of rose petal, red currant and wet stone. The gorgeously textured, even lilting, middle weight flavors ooze minerality on the strikingly long and youthfully austere finale that could again use more depth. Even so, this is pretty much textbook Latricières.
92-94 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2035+
Insiders know how good this cuvée is chez Faiveley, and the 2023 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is another excellent rendition, offering up aromas of sweet wild berries, rose petals, orange zest and vine smoke, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy but ethereal palate that’s refined, precise and mineral.
94-96 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has a little more ripeness and precocity on the nose compared to Faiveley’s other Grand Crus. There is just a touch of wet clay that tinctures the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with forward tobacco-tinged red fruit and gentle grip, though here it just tapers away a little toward the finish where it requires more grip.
91-93 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2027-2047
Échézeaux ‘En Orveaux’ Grand Cru
Moderate reduction dominates the underlying fruit today. Otherwise, there is better volume and density to the medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by admirably fine-grained tannins on the balanced and impressively persistent finale. This is an Echézeaux of finesse and refinement.
91-94 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2033+
The 2023 Echézeaux En Orveaux Grand Cru is another highlight of the range, mingling notes of raspberries and plums with aromas of orange zest, cinnamon, peonies and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, layered and sensual, with a rich core of fruit, supple tannins and a saline finish, it’s well worth seeking out.
93-95 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Echézeaux En Orveau Grand Cru comes from a parcel close to the lieu-dit of Petit Musigny on marl soils. This is very composed on the nose with delineated berry fruit, loam and forest floor scents. It’s certainly one of the more understated Echézeaux. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit. It is quite energetic, with a fine bead of acidity and a sense of brightness on the finish that is very appealing. This is another 2023 from Faiveley whose charms reveal themselves gradually in the glass.
92-94 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2028-2048
Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru
Firm reduction completely dominates the fruit today. More interesting are the refined and generously proportioned medium-bodied flavors that flash both good power and a more subtle minerality on the balanced and equally austere finale that, like several wines in the range, would benefit from developing better depth.
91-94 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2035+
My inclination is in favor of the ethereal Latricières, but some readers may gravitate toward the denser, fleshier 2023 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, supple and layered wine evocative of smoky berries and plums mingled with exotic spices and orange zest.
93-95 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is quite understated on the nose with brambly red fruit, briar and light earthy scents that emerge with time. It’s subtle and very different from Roty’s Mazis, which I tasted an hour earlier. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced with crunchy red fruit, chalky tannins and a judicious touch of white pepper toward the finish. I suspect this is a pretty Mazis-Chambertin that will give most of its pleasure in its first decade.
93-95 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2028-2044
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
An unusually floral-suffused nose for Clos de Vougeot features additional nose of various red berries and just turned earth. The attractively textured, if not especially dense, medium weight flavors terminate in a youthfully austere and lingering finish that could also use better depth.
90-93 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2033+
The 2023 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is fleshy and expressive, delivering aromas of smoky berries, orange zest and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, charming and succulent palate. This will offer a broad drinking window.
91-93 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru has a clean and pure bouquet that perhaps doesn’t possess the mineralité and complexity of the Corton Clos de Faiveley. The palate is clean and pure with silky tannins. It’s not a powerful Clos Vougeot, yet it’s focused and harmonious with a dab of sour cherry on the slightly truncated finish.
90-92 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2027-204
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru
Aromas of vine smoke, incense, plums and spices introduce the 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, lively wine framed by powdery tannins. It’s more taut and brooding that the lavish Echézeaux that preceded it in this tasting.
92-94 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
Joseph Faiveley Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes
The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with brambly red berry fruit, rose petals and hints of bergamot tea unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced with a sorbet-fresh opening, impressive delineation and transparency, a keen thread of acidity and a cohesive finish. Very fine.
91-93 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2027-2040
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Cazetiers’
Moderate reduction renders an evaluation of the nose impossible. The medium weight flavors possess a slightly finer mouthfeel while exuding an almost palpable minerality that adds a sense of lift to the lightly tangy if impressively long finale. Note that my projected range assumes that the tanginess is likely due to a high level of gas and thus will be eliminated once the wine is prepared for the bottling.
90-93 Points Outstanding, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2033+
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is a beauty, bursting with notes of cherries, raspberries, rose petals and incense. Medium to full-bodied, pure and polished, with an ample core of fruit, lively acids and a saline finish, it’s especially perfumed and sensual this year.
93-95 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers ler Cru has an understated, tertiary nose with a touch of smoke filtering through the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins and a keen line of acidity. It’s taut and fresh with plenty of mineralité and tension on the finish. This is a very competent and quite delicious Cazetiers.
92-94 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2027-2048
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Lavaux Saint-Jacques’
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques has turned out beautifully, offering up aromas of orange zest, vine smoke, cassis and cloves, followed by a medium to fullbodied, ample and fleshy palate that’s pure and precise. It will offer a broad drinking window
92-94 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Chaignots’
At once bright and creamy, this has very silky tannins for this appellation. It glides over your palate, the wealth of berry aromas underlined by subtle forest-floor nuances. Great depth in the very harmonious finish. So delicious already. From organically grown grapes. Matured in a mix of new and onceused barriques. Drink or hold.
95 Points, Stuart Pigott – James Suckling
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Porets St Georges’
Earthy and sauvage-inflected aromas of red and dark berries are nuanced by a hint of old leather. The succulent, round and delicious middle weight flavors possess good punch that carries over to the moderately rustic, lingering and balanced finish where a touch of wood slowly surfaces.
89-92 Points, Allen Meadows – Burghound.com Drink: 2031+
The 2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Porêts-Saint-Georges is pretty and perfumed, bursting from the glass with aromas of orange zest, cinnamon, rose petals and red berries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and suave palate that’s saline and fine-boned.
91-93 Points, William Kelley – The Wine Advocate
The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Porêts Saint-Georges ler Cru has a fragrant bouquet with brambly red fruit and damp, loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with hints of bitter cherry and a touch of cracked black pepper. It’s just a bit rustic in style.
89-91 Points, Neal Martin – Vinous Drink: 2026-2040
Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Cask sample. Some lightly mossy density here with a bit of conviction. Far from rich but very respectable and well balanced.
16.5/20 Points, Jancis Robinson, JancisRobinson.com
Chambolle-Musigny
Pale garnet. Pretty basic sweet, lightly perfumed red. It may develop more complexity in bottle.
16/20 Points, Jancis Robinson, JancisRobinson.com
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