Product information
Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2017
$650
Description
A captivating mix of ripe plums, strawberries, cloves, violet pastille, balsam herbs and white smoke emanates from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This is undeniably elegant in feel, showing a weight unexpected from a young Poggio di Sotto, yet working in perfect harmony, with tart cherries and wild berries drenching the palate in primary concentration, as saline-minerals and brisk acids add energy and verve. There’s simply so much going on here that each return to the glass reveals something new. The tannins are sweet and rounded, and while structured, this remains fully satiating and fresh, as hints of lavender and black currant slowly fade. It’s totally atypical of a young Poggio di Sotto, yet also a wonderfully unique expression of the vintage, one that should mature evenly in spite of the drastic climatic conditions. In order to create the best wine possible, severe selection reduced production by 40%, and there will be no Riserva from 2017, as all of that juice was added to the Brunello. What’s more, winemaker Luca Marrone chose to shorten the aging in wood by an entire year. It may not be classic in style, but the 2017 is a wine that’s not to be missed.
Eric Guido, Vinous 95. ML 97
My thoughts on the 2015 to give you an idea of style:
This my friends this is a thing of beauty! Frankly, my tasting budget is blown, big time! I had to try this.
Brunello has such a spectrum of styles from the divine, elegant, and, graceful to the overblown clumsy monsters. I typically play on the side of elegance and into the middle of the spectrum. Poggio di Sotto’s is undoubtedly on the elegant side.
So, Trembles rocks up with a box. We sit, we pour, we proceed to shoot the s@#t. Then that moment after swirling the vino around for a couple of minutes, I smell. That little spark ignites. I’m looking at more than your average Sangio. The conversation shifts from the 123 varieties of heirloom tomatoes he’s planted to a glass full of happiness.
There is something here that takes Sangiovese to a special place, the perfume, the lovely linear shape of fruit, that deceptive depth and length that builds. Here we see a Brunello at 13.5% where many from 2015 are well north of 15%. As expected the pieces fall into place. Low yield, meticulous vineyard work combine to offer fruit with flavour ripeness at much lower sugar levels affording the opportunity to create such an elegant personality in the wine. The superfine tannins have a lovely linear line to them.
I have seen wines like this before. Patience will see them undergo a metamorphosis from a thing of beauty to one of sophistication with an additional level of intrigue as the truffles, forest, subtle generosity of age builds.
Note to self: Review tasting budget!
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