Size & Type
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$351
The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is lovely, unfurling in the glass with notes of green orchard fruit, citrus zest, wet stones and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy, it’s deep and saline, with as usual a quintessentially Chablisien profile.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 94 Points
Here the wood treatment is again quite subtle though not imperceptible on the cool aromas of sea breeze, citrus, wet stone and quinine. As one would expect, there is notably more size, weight, volume and power, if decidedly less refinement, to the big-bodied flavors that also possess a sappy mouthfeel that carries over to the sneaky long and balanced finale. This opulent effort could be approached young if desired but a few years of bottle aging should help develop better overall depth.
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Back in the early naughties, we were hoovering Chablis from the early 1970’s. When the Tsunami hit, wheelbarrows of Grand & 1er Cru’s were arriving from the auction houses at around $14 a bottle. By the time it receded, after everyone else had caught on, they were up at around $40 a bottle and still a bargain. Purity, complexity, amazing texture, lovely lines of acid were the hallmarks of these incredible wines. Testut et Fréres Grenouille featured! Such a great vineyard.
About Jean-Paul et Benoît DroinPeople often cite Domaines Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat as the two greatest exponents of Chablis, however, I would like to add a third – Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin. Over the last five or six years, Benoît Droin has really ratcheted up the quality. I cannot exaggerate how often Droin’s wines end up the best of the flight during the annual “Burgfest” blind tastings. Again and again, they shine against stiff competition. It is time to accept that Droin is now one of the leading producers in Chablis. Neal Martin
The Droin family has been collecting small holdings in all the top premier and grand cru Chablis vineyards since 1620. Over the last 400 years they have played an important role in shaping Chablis’ wine production and local politics throughout their existence. Jean-Paul was one of the first to introduce oak aging to the region in the 1980s, a transformative innovation. In 1999 Benoît, Jean-Paul’s son, took over as winemaker and the domaine has since flourished. His meticulous vineyard management with severely restricted yields and careful élevage of the individual cuvees afford the attention to detail required for greatness. Benoît’s artistry in the winery and careful stewardship of their outstanding collection of small vineyards has long ago elevated the family domaine to the very top of the Chablis tree. The Droin style is one of purity and transparency, coupled with powerful concentration and deep minerality.

Benoît Droin’s immensely dependable wines are among the most consistent in the region, and to my palate, the combination of Diam closures and élevages employing recently used and, indeed, occasionally new wood (though only up to 10%) means that these wines need a few years in bottle to show their best. But everything invariably comes together to impressive effect, and the wines age very gracefully indeed. Farming is conventional at this 26-hectare domaine; but the soils are cultivated mechanically, and synthetic treatments are kept to a minimum. Harvest is early and is partially mechanized, followed by fermentation and élevage in stainless steel and wood, with the proportions varying according to the cuvée. Chablis Geology & Geography Explored.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Jean-Paul et Benoît Droin have holdings across an array of Village, 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis.
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The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is lovely, unfurling in the glass with notes of green orchard fruit, citrus zest, wet stones and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy, it's deep and saline, with as usual a quintessentially Chablisien profile.
Here the wood treatment is again quite subtle though not imperceptible on the cool aromas of sea breeze, citrus, wet stone and quinine. As one would expect, there is notably more size, weight, volume and power, if decidedly less refinement, to the big-bodied flavors that also possess a sappy mouthfeel that carries over to the sneaky long and balanced finale. This opulent effort could be approached young if desired but a few years of bottle aging should help develop better overall depth.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin SCEV, Avenue Jean Jaurès, Chablis, France
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