Domaine de la Pousse d’Or Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes’ 2022

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

About Domaine de la Pousse d’Or

This historic estate is one of the Burgundian elite, in a similar realm of such exclusive wineries like Romanée-Conti and Comte de Vogüé, with its strict selection and seamless winemaking.

The history of Pousse d’Or in Volnay underscores its influence throughout the ages. In 1855, the winery was part of a larger domaine that included such names as Romanée-Conti and Clos de Tart. Originally called La Bousse d’Or (Bousse, in old French, means earth; thus, “golden earth”), the domaine changed owners a number of times until legend Gérard Potel took the reins.

It was Potel that put the estate’s wines on the map, with the elegant, refined style that Pousse d’Or is still known for today. In 1997, Patrick Landanger purchased the winery and its vineyards. In the mid-2000s, Landanger made significant investments in the vineyards as well as in the winemaking facilities and cellars, and added an impressive collection of Côte de Nuits vineyards (from Domaine Moine-Hudelot) to his portfolio.

He has been joined by his son, Benoit, who has been helping him with the winemaking as from 2013. Their ambitions on quality are reflected in the deep respect of the terroirs they run. The decision to persue biodynamic certification underscores this passion. In 2018, Benoit assumed complete management of the Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, maintaining his father’s vision for quality and the motivation for excellence.

Meet Benoit Landanger and learn about the history of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in the video below: 

In the Vineyard & Winery

The Domaine de la Pousse d’Or works with a number of sites in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, including 5 grand crus and 11 premier crus, of which three are monopoles in Volnay: ‘Clos de la Bousse d’Or,’ ‘Clos des Soixante (60)-Ouvrées’ and ‘Clos d’Audignac.’ The plots, representing about 17 hectares of vines, are located on the emblematic villages of Volnay, Chambolle-Musigny, Corton, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet, Morey-Saint-Denis and Santenay. For centuries, harvesting the purest expression of our exceptional terroirs has become an obsession.

Pousse’s attention to detail and dedication to sustainable viticulture is serious. For years the estate cared for its vines according to organic principles; since 2013, Pousse has incorporated biodynamic practices across all its holdings. As of 2018, the estate has been certified biodynamic per Demeter, a standards body.

Grapes as a rule are harvested and sorted by hand, and bunches are destemmed and fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks. Wines are aged 18 months in French oak barrels, with between 30 to 50 percent new wood, depending on the cru. In recent vintages, Landanger has been experimenting with terracotta amphorae for aging some of his premier cru wines. Very little sulfur is added any any point during the winemaking process. All wines are bottled by gravity and are unfined and unfiltered following the lunar calendar.

Our biodynamic work in the vineyards as well as the organically controlled vinification process, and the prolonged lees aging contribute to the essential balance, finesse and richness of the distinguished reds and whites of the Domaine de la Pousse d’Or.

The 2022 vintage at Domaine de la Pousse d’Or

From Allen Meadows, Burghound

Benoît Landanger, who has assumed the direction of this domaine and has converted it to biodynamic farming principles, was away at the time of my visit though he did leave a brief ‘welcome video’ with a few details about the 2022 vintage, which I confess in the almost 25 years as a professional critic, was a first! However, I was very capably received and as noted last year, there have been significant changes in the domaine’s holdings. The total vineyard area under management is now an impressive 17.4 ha though the details are still being working out as it’s possible that Benoît may found a new domaine based in Gevrey to run in conjunction with Pousse d’Or. The additions include a leased parcel of .27 ha in the Gevrey 1er of La Perrière and .26 ha in Mazoyères (which is being declared as Charmes-Chambertin) as well as a .11 ha holding in the Echézeaux climat of Poullailères. For the time being, the additions are noted as “managed by the Landanger Family”. On the other side of the ledger, the parcel of Feusselottes was traded away.

Effectively this means that the domaine now works with an incredible 7 grand crus (6 reds plus Chevalier-Montrachet) and fully 11 premier crus (10 red and 1 white, the Puligny Caillerets); just as impressive is that 3 of the premier crus are monopoles! Once again, I had a chance to taste three wines that were vinified exactly the same as the regular cuvées but were raised in amphora; this is to say the En Caillerets, Clos de la Bousse d’Or and the Clos des 60 Ouvrées vineyards. I note these using the term amphore in the reviews, but the actual terminology found on the label reads “Vinifié et Élevé en Amphore”. As the scores and commentaries confirm, I was very impressed with the wines in 2022 and in particular, those from Volnay really stood out.

Where in the world is Domaine de la Pousse d’Or?

Domaine de la Pousse d’or is located in Volnay, in the Côtes de Beaune. In addition to their excellent primary holdings in Volany, such as the three monopoles ‘Clos de la Bousse d’Or,’ ‘Clos des Soixante (60)-Ouvrées’ and ‘Clos d’Audignac.’, the Landangers work with a number of sites in the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits, including vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny, Corton, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet, Morey-Saint-Denis and Santenay.