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Nebbiolo from Bussia, Monforte d'Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
$166
This is very well played. Bussia is right in the north of Monforte, which as a whole was very poorly defined during the MGA classification. It tends to produce wines of more elegance than many of the Crus further south in Monforte. Barale’s 2018s have been beautifully composed. The Bussia tannins are fine and restrained. The development and oxidative handling demands quality fruit and it has that with a solid core of red fruits layered in with savoury, earthy notes. I’m enjoying the balance of the 2018 Barales with fine acid matching well weighted grape tannins and excellent flavour profiles.
In stock
On the edge of Barolo village, just a few metres down and across the cobblestones of the via Roma from Cantina Bartolo Mascarello, is the unprepossessing cantina frontage to one of the most exciting discoveries in my many years of going to the Langhe. It’s not as though Barale just emerged, but these firmly traditional wines are now being made to the full potential of the family’s remarkable vineyards and this unforced, traditional style is now being fully appreciated.
Barale present a catalogue of superb, authentic Barolo and a cru Barbaresco, bell-clear Piemontese varietals, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto, along with a slight twist in the form of a wonderful metodo classico – as good a sparkler as I’ve ever had in Italy. Another great asset is a wonderful, typically far-sighted museum collection, an archive the last 2 decades of Barale winemaking. Oh, and that Chinato, all elegant, fragrant and addictive.
The Barale family have in fact been at it for centuries and while they are amongst the first recorded producers of Barolo wine, from 1870, they appear in the village register of the early 1600s as owners of parts of some pretty familiar vineyard names; Coste di Rose, Cannubi, Castellero and Preda. The current custodians, Sergio Barale and his daughters Eleonora and Gloria owe their heritage to the acquisition, over generations, of vineyards in not only Barolo comune, but also in Monforte d’Alba and Barbaresco. By the 1970’s the family had brought more Cannubi and added Monrobiolo (in Barolo) and some Bussia (in Monforte) and into the 90’s had virtually swapped their long-held Rabaja vineyard in Barbaresco for some Serraboella in Neive planted in 1969. All this covers only 20 ha, with Sergio tailoring his plantings almost precisely only to the best soil and aspect combinations. Virtually the whole of Cannubi was replanted at the end of the 2007 vintage, and although just back in production, it’s with startling results. Vineyards are everything to Barale.
The initial approach is the same for all the reds; delicate crushing in order to keep skins intact, fermentation with indigenous yeasts, controlled temperature and maceration with frequent basting of the skins. The fermentation vessel, temperatures and macerations change according to the grape.
While based in Barolo, Barale makes this beautiful wine from the Serraboella vineyard in Nieve, Barbaresco. This wine comes from San Giovanni on the Bricco immediately outside the village – therefore strictly speaking Barolo commune but effectively it’s just as much Bussia. On calcareous sand facing south-east.
The organic Barale Fratelli 2018 Barolo Bussia Sergio Barale reveals a bright, lifted and tensile personality. This Barolo is thin and elegant in appearance with shiny ruby highlights. The Bussia shows a classy ensemble of aromas with tart cherry, wild rose, licorice root, salty limestone and mineral coolness at the back. Production is limited to a precious few 2,845 bottles.
Dried rose petal, eucalyptus, wild herb and red berry aromas come to the forefront on this fragrant, focused. Bright, full-bodied and linear, the savory palate shows wild strawberry, red cherry, star anise and the same wild herb note from the nose alongside fresh acidity and tightly wound but refined tannins. It's still youthfully austere and will need a few more years to unwind. Best 2026–2033.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Barale Fratelli, Via Roma, Barolo, Piedmont, Province of Cuneo, Italy
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